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Ford Explorer XLS

The Ford Explorer XLS was a rebadged variant of the Ford Explorer XL introduced in 1999. This model replaced the Explorer XL as the base model. The vehicle received a slight modification in front end design.

2,069 Questions

How do you calculate brake hourse power from wheel horse power?

"they are basically equal"- Previous Answer

They are not even close to equal. You can't calculate brake horsepower from wheel horsepower unless you know the exact losses through the drivetrain of the vehicle in question. The actual percent lost through any given drivetrain can vary dramatically. In order to know the losses you would need to measure the % difference between the brake horsepower and the wheel horsepower. Then you would already know the brake horsepower, and any calculations would be unnecessary.

FYI-

Brake horsepower is a rating of the engine output before the drivetrain/water pump/alternator/other attachments. It will be a higher number than wheel horsepower. It is measured by a brake dynomometer at the crankshaft of an engine.

Wheel horsepower is generally 15-20% less (sometimes more than 20% less) than brake horsepower depending on whether the vehicle is FWD or RWD, or manual or automatic transmission. Usually the least losses will be in a FWD, manual transmission, and the most losses will be in a RWD, auto transmission.

Auto manufacturers rate their engines in brake horsepower, as it allows them to advertise higher horsepower numbers than what is actually going to the ground.

What would cause a 2000 f-150 to have vibration at 60 to 68 MPH the tires are new and have been balanced 3 times by two different shops?

A simple wheel balance will cure most vibrations. But if that doesn't cure the problem your problems may go deeper.

Inspect the rim--inside and outside--for any damage. Also look at the tires--if you see any bulges or uneven wear of the tires, consider them in the "probable cause" category.

Nothing obvious? Take the car for a test drive. When the vibration occurs, is it while you're accelerating through a bend? That means it's both torque and speed sensitive. When you pull back to your garage, inspect the axle shafts, looking for damage to the boots. Constant velocity joints can wear out. But if the boots are intact, the clamps are holding them at each end, and there's been no loss of lubricant and no intrusion of road film, then they're probably in good condition.

If the vibration is not related to torque, shift into Neutral and let the vehicle coast at the problem speed. Still have the vibration? It's speed sensitive pure and simple. This could be the source of your troubles, even if the wheels are balanced and the tires are good. It's not a powertrain or driveline issue.

Jack up the front wheels by the control arms, so they're off the ground, and support them with safety stands. Grasp each wheel, holding it first at the sides, then at the top and bottom. See if you can rock the wheel in and out and if you can feel any looseness, which indicates a loose wheel or worn wheel hub bearings. Wheel bearings (and the front bearings on many rear-drive cars) are well-sealed and often are life-of-the-car without lubrication. However, if you've been on a lot of secondary roads, or glanced off a curb hard enough to bend a rim, they could be worn or damaged.

Your Ford has adjustable front wheel bearings, and finding a lot of free play in these is not surprising. To adjust, remove the cotter pin, tighten the wheel bearing nut to about 20 ft.-lb. to seat the bearings, and back off so they're just free but have so little play that you really can't feel it. Then line up the slot in the spindle with the nut and insert a new cotter pin.

You may not feel free play in a front wheel but try rocking it in and out with a bit more effort, but not enough to move the steering linkage. That could demonstrate free play from wear in the tie-rod ends or ball joints. If you're not sure where the free play is, pry up on the bottom of the tire and watch the ball joint to see if it has free play1/4 in. is a lot.

To check a tie-rod end joint for looseness, try to flex it by hand. A good tie-rod end should feel snug, but not immobile or stiff.

On rack-and-pinion steering, it's a good idea to check the tie rods' inner sockets. They're covered by the steering rack boots, but you can squeeze the boots to hold the inner joint. Jack up the front end to take the weight off the front wheels. Have a friend slowly turn the steering wheel a partial turn to each side, while you feel for looseness.

Just because you can't feel a lot of free play or "wobble" in a wheel doesn't mean there isn't enough to cause vibration. It doesn't take a lot to be responsible for objectionable vibration at speeds of 60 to 70 mph and above any deviation from a truly circular spin is called runout. It can be vertical (up-down) or horizontal (in-out).

The only practical way to check for runoutfront or rearis with a dial indicator, another tool you can rent at many parts stores. There are several different checks to make to pinpoint the source of the runout.

Mount the indicator on something heavy that won't move, such as an anchor plate or wheel hub/knuckle. Position the plunger for the specific runout check. Example: For a radial runout test, rest it against a good tire tread groove. Slowly turn the tire and measure the amount of runout, ignoring jumps in the plunger that result from the shape of the tread or minor imperfections in it. If there are factory specifications for runout, use those.

If you don't have specs, see if the runout is about .050 to .060 in. this measurement is considered rule of thumb. The tire almost surely isn't the issue, although there is precision equipment that can check a tire for heavy spots.

To isolate the source of the runout, check it at the wheel with the plunger on an underside horizontal surface. Ignore minor imperfections in the wheel finish (paint, weld, tiny dings) that cause the plunger to jump instantaneously. If the runout is over .045 in., the wheel should be replaced.

If radial runout isn't bad, check lateral runout with the plunger against the sidewall, even if the in-out rocking didn't show anything. Obviously, ignore any plunger movement from raised lettering, etc. If the runout is over .045 in., it's too much. Here again, isolate the runout by checking at the wheel with the plunger against a vertical surface. The rule-of-thumb specs are the same as for radial runout.

When the runout at the wheel is excessive, a new wheel normally is the answer, but not always. Remove the wheel and check runout on the wheel hub. Making a lateral runout check is an obvious procedure because there's a hub face against which you can rest the plunger.

For a radial check, it may be more difficult if the top surface of the hub isn't reasonably smooth because you have to use the threaded edges of the studs, and, typically, there are only four or five of those studs. So it does take some careful measuring to see if there's a significant amount. You have to look for the peak reading at each stud to be sure you're measuring at the outermost point. Unless almost all the radial runout is in the bolt circle, and that amount is at least .030 in., go for a new wheel. Replacing the hub and bearing on a front-drive is not a quick and easy job.

It can take a couple of hours to check out the possible causes of high-speed vibration, and you may be tempted to take the car in for wheel alignment to see if that helps before you spend time on all these other things. Sorry. Unless there's some evidence of wheel misalignment (such as irregular tire wear), a wheel alignment is not going to help at all. In fact, until you first isolate and correct the cause of the vibration, alignment would be a waste of time and money.

Additional Info.

I have found several cases of front end vibration due to worn shocks and/or struts. These two items soak up vibrations caused by oscillation in tires. No tire/wheel combination is perfectly balanced. If he shock/strut is not optimal in it's functions, these vibrations are transmitted to the steering wheel. Also when wheels and tires are balanced, they are only balanced to themselves. Out of round brake rotors and even slight loose ball joints may cause the oroblem. If you front tires are the same as your rear tire (which they should be) swap them and see if the problem still exists. If it does, it is not a problem with the tire/wheel combination. If it does remedy the problem, have the tires balanced at a different shop first (worth the few bucks).

Additional Info:

It also matters whether the balance done was single-plane or dual-plane (whether the balance technician eliminated only the 'up and down' element of the tire/wheel imbalance, or the 'side to side' element as well. It is common for many shops to use single-plane balancing on alloy and custom rims so there are no 'unsightly' wheel weights on the outer side of the wheel.

A good balancing technician can use a computerized balancer to minimize the amount of weight needed to balance a wheel. However, many shops do not do this because it requires extra work (tire/wheel must be broken down and shifted to accomplish this), and often the technicians at big-box stores and similar venues do not even know how.

There is a lot of very good, very detailed information in the responses above. Just be assertive while checking the tire/wheel balance element of your problem - you are the customer and any shop that won't take the time to address your questions is not a shop to which you want to take your business. ASK them to do a dual-plane balance on your wheels, and if the amount of required weight is excessive, to use their balancer's program to minimize the weight.

Where is check engine reset button on 1991 Suzuki Sidekick?

pull dome fuse above knee. in fuse box. pulling battery makes ecu relearn everything. dome fuse resets memory only.

Maybe just disconnect battery for a couple of minutes and it will reset

In Kill Bill what was the name of the gang The Bride fought?

Crazy 88

you can find out on the credits an the end of volume 2 and the brides name is Beatrix Kiddo

What could be wrong with your 1997 Dodge Avenger if the heater defroster AC and blower motor doesn't work but all fuses under the dash and hood have been checked?

The blower motor is the key to pumping in the air and if it's spent, nothing will pump. I would try replacing that first.

AnswerOn many mopar products there is a defrost resistor (I think that's what it is called) located on the passenger side on the very top of the firewall. This provides heat to the defrost vent system before the engine can deliver any heat. Sometimes one of the heater coils wil break or becom disconnected. If you remove the part the broken part should be apparent if not test the leads with a ohmmeter for continuity. AnswerI had the same problem. The wire to the heat, etc., fell behind the fuse box, so we ran a separate wire to that fuse, and it works like new.

What would cause the drivers side power window on a 1996 Ford Contour to go down when either the up or down switch is pressed?

I had this problem, spent a fortune on new regulators and even a motor before I realized that the problem was in the switch. For some reason, the switch (only the driver's side front window) would make the window go down when pressed up or down, and when you try to make it go up, nothing but a "clicking" sound.

Apparently, the problem is some kind of alignment in the switch. I am not a mecahnic, but I found that if I carefully hammered the switch down along the edge from top to bottom, it would eventually "catch" and then would work properly again. Eventually, the condition would re-occur, and I would do it again. Sometimes it worked for a few days, sometimes for a few months. So there is definitely a problem in the switch. Don't pay for new regulators, motors, or other parts for this problem. Apparenlty, the techs do not know about this condition. If you do go for repair, carefully explain the problem and what I told you above, otherwise they think the problem is with the hardware inside the door. Or try my method, which solves the problem, but not if you are anal about the cosmetics inside the car.

Where is the camshaft sensor located on a 99 ford explorer vin x?

according to my Haynes repair manual the camshaft position sensor for the 4.0 L OHV engine is located at the rear of the engine block, on the top of the engine block

Where is the EGR valve located on a 2002 Ford Explorer?

The EGR valve is located at the right rear corner of the intake manifold near the firewall you will have to remove the throttle body cover to access it

What would cause a car to shake after starting it?

AnswerAn engine is designed to balance itself when all cylinders are running. a 4 cylinder powers at either 90 degrees or 180 degrees depending on its design. 6, 8 10, 12 cylinders are designed the same way, but the degree which they fire is different, but they still do the same thing. without looking at your engine, it sounds like 1 or more cylinders is not powereing properly. this could be caused by a fouled spark plug, a bad distributer wire, or a bad fuel injector. this is only a few of the things that could cause this. my advise is to take to a mechanic that you trust, (ask your friends for references), & ask him to do a diagnosis for you. he will probably charge you for this. with newer cars, this is perfectly acceptable. however, if he comes back at you with"it just needs a tune-up", ask him how he determined it, & what does he include in a tune-up. a proper diagnostic should cost about 100 dollars, but it should tell you just about everything you need to know about your engine, bad timing belt, clogged injectors, etc. some shops even absorb the cost of the diagnosis if you let them do the repairs. hint: if it only shakes on a wet day, or smoothes out after it warms up, its probably plug wires or distributer cap. a good way to check is wait for a hot dry day when the engine is running smooth, take a windex type spray bottle with water, & squirt the wires & cap while the engine is running. if this is the problem, the engine will start shaking. end result, try to find a mechanic that you can trust, & then trust your mechanic.

1992 240 The brake lights are not working fuse and bulbs are fine Could it be the brake light switch Where is this located Thanks?

Change out the flasher relay located under the dash. Not the brake light switch which is activated by the brake pedal. Replacing the relay should solve the problem.

How do you get brake light and third light working on a ford explorer?

Depending on the year, there may be one fuse for all three brake lights, or two fuses, one for the highmount brake light and one fuse for the two lower brake lights/tail lights. So, if all three brake lights are out, it could be just one fuse or perhaps the brake light switch which is on the brake pedal metal arm assembly.

What size are the speakers in a 2000 ford explorer xls?

I just put two new speakers in today. They are 6x8. The depth is 2 1/2". The screws are spaced 4" and 5" apart on the sides.

ALSO - the speakers will have a mesh grill over them. If you recover speakers from an older Explorer or other Ford at a salvage/junk yard...then make sure you get them from an Eddie Bauer or limited. These versions have better speakers. The ones I got have tweeters w/ the main speakers (stripped out of an e Bauer for my XLS). To take the door off, use Phillips screwdriver to take the 2 screws out near the handle, near the door latch. Then, pry the panel off. be careful not to tear-up the 6 white plastic grommet screws. (If you go to a salvage yard, take these out with you, too). you will need to take the small plastic cover off around the door latch, it just poops in/out. Then let the middle door handle hang - the one with your power lock controls on it. You will be able to lay the door panel aside, along with the thin plastic liner that was originally glued to the door. Now you can deal with the speaker. Should be 4 small 1/4" nuts holding the 6x8 in place.

What is a brake dimmer?

A device to gradually dim the brake lights after they are held on for over a set period of time.

Ford Taurus 1995 the car will start but when you turn the ignition off it won't shut off?

Mine did this and I found a plastic plunger inside the ignition switch had broken so it only worked in the one direction. I had to turn it off by taking one battery terminal off. I had to pull the steering wheel off and it was a pain but it worked. See "Related Questions" below for instructions on removing/replacing the ignition switch cylinder

Why is the brake light on the dashboard of my 92 Honda Civic flashing on and off intermittently?

Usually the brake fluid is low and the float/switch in the reservoir is causing the light to go on & off as you go around corners & stop & start. Also possible its an ABS issue if the car is so equipped.

Why would a car shake during acceleration?

The pistons are running in the cylinders of the engine, so when the rpm of the engine rises, the pistons quickley build up speed. It is this rapid acceleration of the pistons that casue the car to shake.

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