Ford Explorer

5300

Use the rotary dial in the center stack of your dash just to the left of the

radio

it has positions for 2 wheel drive , 4 wheel drive automatic , and 4 wheel drive

low ( with the Control Trac 4x4 system )

In four wheel drive automatic if the back wheels slip some of the power is

transferred to the front wheels

4 wheel drive LOW requires you to hold your foot on the brake , shift into neutral , turn the dial to 4WD LOW , and then put your transmission back in gear . It's meant for slower speeds on loose or slippery surfaces ) I'm not sure what the maximum speed would be but it's probably less than 25 miles per hour ?

You have to have the factory do it, or a locksmith. (thats for resetting the remotes and codes)

if you just want to reset it then unplug the battery for 10 mins then hook it back up

SAE 5 W - 30 is the preferred oil , according to the 1996 Ford Explorer owners manual

Assuming you have already checked the obvious, the serpentine belt tensioner and belt. A common cause of the squeal in 4.0 Ford engines is the camshaft sychronizer (takes the place of the distributor on DIS, distributorless ignition systems). It sounds very similar to a belt squeal and is often mis-diagnosed as a belt being loose or worn. The noise can be intermittant, but if the noise is there when you have the hood up use a simple mechanic's stethoscope to help pinpoint the source of the noise. == == The most likely culprit is a serpentine belt or the belt tensioner. Try replacing the serpentine belt. If the noise persists, replace the belt tensioner. See the related article "Serpentine belt and Tensioner FAQ for the Ford Explorer all models"

Open and empty the glove compartment , press in on both sides of the glove compartment at the top and pivot it down , remove the 2 hinge screws and the glove compartment.

on the heater housing , remove the 4 screws on the bottom , then slide down the bottom of the housing , there is the core, the only thing holding it in now are the heater hoses.

loosen the hose clamps and remove the hoses , then reverse the process to install the new core, it shouldn't take more than 90 minutes.

First, be sure it's the motor, not the switch. There's a quick disconnect inside the door. Disconnect the motor there and attach either an automotive test light or a voltmeter and try to raise/lower the window. You should see 12 VDC with a meter or the test light should come on. If it does, try the motor. To remove the motor, first secure the window glass with several long pieces of duct tape, or something similar, to keep the glass from falling once you remove the window regulator. There are three or four rivets that hold the window regulator assembly to the door. These will have to be drilled out and then you can remove the assembly. You have to slide the regulator arm out of the bottom track of the window itself, and then it's a matter of maneuvering the assembly out of the door. Once it's out, there are three bolts that hold the motor to the assembly. Remove the motor and replace it. I have aftermarket motors from one of the major auto parts stores which have lifetime warranties, which I've already made use of. They are much cheaper than the dealership, and will honor their warranty as well. Do your homework on price. To reinstall, reassemble the motor/regulator and worm it back into the door. Since you drilled out the rivets, you can use 1/4-20 bolts, washers and nuts to hold the assembly on. Put the bolts in from INSIDE the door, so that the bolt head is facing inside, and the bolt body is sticking out. Use at least a 1 inch bolt, and once you have the washers and nuts on it, tighten it down and cut off the excess using a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel. If you don't, your door panel won't fit. This is exactly what I did on my truck, like I said, on both doors. Twice. Once because I used a part from a junkyard and it died, and once because the aftermarket part broke. Hope it helps...

Locate and pull the fuse for the fuel pump. Crank the engine for 5-10 seconds. No more fuel pressure.

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Digital-Advanced Mobile Phone Service (D-AMPS) is the newer digital equivalent of analong cellular telephone service. It uses time division multiplexing technology in addition to frequency division multiplexing and provides greater signal clarity and security than AMPS.

inside gas tank.

The P215 / 70 / R15 is 26.9 inches in diameter and the section width is 8.5 inches

The P225 / 70 / R15 is 27.4 inches in diameter and the section width is 8.9 inches

Replace the fuel pump/fuel level indicator, mounted on top of gas tank....

ANSWER

The 1994 also has a 15 amp fuse in location # 17 for the fuel gauge (Helpfull)

One end attached to the speedometer head

The other attached to the speed sensor at the transmission

5 quarts WITH FILTER CHANGE for the 4.0 L - V6 ( OHV + SOHC versions )

There are an infinite number of inventions that could be invented in the future. These inventions may include flying cars for example.

Have you used up all of the bad "CANADIAN" fuel, perhaps the bad "CANADIAN" fuel has restricted your fuel filter enough to lower your fuel pressure again. Check your fuel pressure, it should be 35 to 45 PSI with the key in the on/run position but engine not started.

Locksmiths have a tool that is basically a hooked piece of thin wire.

I had a broken key in the lock that i had to remove so i used a very thin piece of wire and made a small 90 degree bend in it. The idea is to slide the wire (hooked end) along the key and get to the end of the key and get the bent end of the wire hooking the tip of the key. Then simply pull the broken end of the key out. In effect you are using a small,long fishhook to get the key out.

Use a pair of pliars to bend the wire. Remember that the wire has to be thin and fairly strong. Coat hanger and bailing wire is much too thick.

While breaking the lock, if the lock was damaged then you may have to replace the lock. The key may be jammed in too tightly.

5 w 30 , according to the 1999 Ford Explorer owners manual

You can see one end of the Powertrain Control Module in the engine compartment

It has a wiring harness bolted to it , it passes through the firewall and the rest of the

PCM is " hidden " behind the glove compartment on the passenger side

On a 1999 Ford Explorer :

In the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine

compartment on the drivers side

( mini fuse # 9 is a 20 amp fuse for the fuel pump relay and RAP module )

You can view the 1999 Ford Explorer owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( the fuses and relays section starts on page 179 )

The most common problem would be your flasher. It is a module that regulates power going to your bulbs and allows them to flash. Check with your local parts dealer and they should be able to help you without the expense of a mechanic. The flasher usually is inexpensive and easy to fix. if its not the flasher, check the grounds for the pigsockets..............Mike

On a 1998 Ford Explorer :

You can seeone end of the Powertrain Control Module ( PCM ) in the engine

compartment . It passes through the firewall , from the engine compartment

end you can see where the wiring harness is bolted to it , and most of the PCM

is " hidden " behind the glove compartment

http://www.fordvehicles.com/suvs/explorer/2011/?searchid=444987|32151776|210468471&ef_id=57RM2 152 ft