Ford Thunderbird

if you mean the fuel cut off switch, its in the trunk.

It might be a fault with the anti-theft feature. Ford has had several recalls due to this. Web search for safety recall on faulty key-in-ignition chime. I had the same problem with my 1998 Ford Explorer Sport although it started chiming all by itself. On my Exlorer there is a set of 5 wires in a yellow sheath running from the ignition module to a brown connection point/harness in a very uncomfortable position directly under the steering column above the pedals. I unplugged the connection at this point. The pinging, or ringing chime comes from the multifunction computer located under the dash behind the radio. Hope this help.

1995 Ford Thunderbird center high mount stop light bulb replacement (3rd brake light bulb): Purchase the correct replacement center high mount stop light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the center high mount stop light bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

The alternator is bad. The engine is running off of the battery and when you take the cable off it has no electrical power. If the alternator was working, the car would keep running.

Be advised, doing this can damage a healthy alternator. This is not a good way to test the system.

Every engine model has a different size of rings. The rings are probably the hardest part to change, because you have to disassemble the entire engine. If removing, tearing down and rebuilding an engine is beyond your abilitys, you should get a good used engine and swap it. Often replacing it with a used engine will be much cheaper.

5X7's fit in the front and rear panels. If you want something good and something that will last you want to get a good brand. I recommend staying away from the name brand stores like; Walmart, Best Buy, and Circuit City. You need to find a small local car audio store that only specializes in car audio. My persanal best is MBQuart but if you want good speakers you will have to get an amplifier to to drive them. If you don't want to spend a lot and maybe your speakers are just blown? Go to a junk yard and get another factory pair of speakers. Ford desgned that car to only handle ford speakers and with bypassing the factory amplifier new speakers just won't sound that great. I went to the junkyard to find speakers for my 95 t-bird and I found a rolled new explorer and the factory speakers were stilll in them so I took those and hooked them in my car. It was temporary until I built up my system professionally.

Check the fuse in the fuse box; Also check to see if your speedometer cable snapped, this will cause the odometer to stop working as well

If your speedometer is still working and just the odometer has stopped, the most likely problem is a little plastic drive gear in the instrument cluster. This is the most common problem with many makes of cars. If you are handy you can buy a replacement gear on Ebay for a few dollars and replace it yourself. Otherwise take the vehicle to an instrument repair shop. This problem usually occurs if you reset your odometer while travelling, it breaks a tooth off the little gear.

You need a set of DIN tools, available for $5 at your local department store for around $5, place them into the holes on the sides of the radio, and pull them in the direction of the side they are on (left side pull it to the left, etc...)

Fuel pressure regulator or bad injector is allowing the fuel delivery system to loose pressure and drain back to the tank. There's No gas at the injectors for for normal start up.

right before the mass air flow sensor

You cannot use share parts between these two engines because the SC is a supercharged version of the 3.8L in the LX. A supercharger is a part that adds horsepower via boost to the engine, but it works as an integrated system. This means that all of the parts on the SC's engine are specifically chosen to perform to the engine's needs, which are different than the needs in the LX version. The water pump from the LX may fit on the SC and it might work, but chances are that the LX's pump does not provide as much water flow, which would leave the engine improperly cooled and could damage the engine. You should play it safe and buy a water pump specifically made for the SC model......not true.. the part numbers are identical between the two motors. they are identical minus the forged internals and supercharger on the sc. it is not a highflow water pump on the supercoupe motor. good luck

speaker is black-, blue with brownish stripe + on power connector their are 4 wires ,2 of them are black,1 green,last is black with green stripe

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? If not you may have to continue the bleeding process Try opening the RR bleeder screw-let fluid gravity feed into a container filled with fluid and depress brake pedal about 3/4 of the way probably 3-4 times closing bleeder between pumps and continue with other wheels LR-RF-LF

3 to 8 maybey 10 but not likely

Looking at the solenoid from the front, and working towards the left, the right terminal will have one wire that goes down to the starter. The little push-on wire (usually red) will be the one that goes next. There may be another little push on, or a couple of wires with terminals- they all get attached to the next small terminal. The last terminal on the left of the solenoid is where the battery wire, and any other accessory wires go.

The bolts go into a plate in the door and the door post, not solid holes in either. The plate will move up and down, side to side a little bit. Loosen the bolts and adjust as needed.

ive found the fuse box in my 1988 marquis behind the plastic under the steering wheel, at the bottom there is 2 plastic Philips screws, give them both half a turn, pop it out and there it is, but where do u find a diagram for the box at?

Larger hose from the compressor maybe near the drier at the passenger side firewall

i have a 94 thunderbird i had plans on putting a 302 in mine but i went with a 289 its a better motor cause i did some research and ford really didnt make a good 302 so i went with a 289 it was a little costly the hardest part was getting the wiring harness for that motor but i found one but anything can be done of u have the time and money for the project so good luck

The fuel pump is located in the tank itself.

There is a brackets that goes across the transmission you must first remove that for more working room you can remove the exhaust then remove all of the bolts around the converter and remove the u joint as well you will need to pull the trany staright back then down make sure the car is on jack stands and its prob best to have someone with some expirence in it to help

1979 ford 302 engine horsepower

NO. You should not open the hydraulic system to replace your pads. Any time you open you hydraulic system, you should bleed, but that is not a requirement of a pad change. "Bleeding" the brakes is terminology hailing back to earlier hydraulic braking systems such as the drum/shoe brake. It simply means adding hydraulic fluid to the reservoir on the engine firewall and pumping the brake pedal to work the fluid through the master cylinder and down the feed lines to the wheels, where existing fluid in the lines can be squirted out through "bleed screws" at each wheel. The purpose of this is a) to get fresh fluid in the system and b) to get air bubbles out of the system. If there are any air bubbles in the system they will cause loss of transfer of braking pressure from the pedal. In other words, the pedal will be squishy and often go to the floor, while little or no pressure is extended to the brake components. In current disc brake systems, you may not need to bleed the brakes with a simple pad change. However, if your pads are completely worn down you will find the caliper pistons have had to travel a significant distance out of their well in order to maintain contact with the shims on the backs of the pads. The new pad replacements will have up to 3/8" each of new material on them, requiring that the pistons be pushed back into their wells to accommodate the increased thickness. Pushing the pistons back requires the fluid behind them to also be pushed back up the lines. Although in pre-ABS brake systems you can merely take the top off the fluid reservoir and if necessary remove some of the potential back-flow as the pistons are pushed back into their wells, in ABS brakes there are valves which prevent this and hence it is suggested that you open the bleeder screws in the calipers and let the fluid come out of there. This will reduce the overall amount of fluid in the brake lines, of course, and it will be necessary to check the amount of loss by inspecting the level in the reservoir, and bringing it back up between the min/max indicator as needed. Whenever you open the bleeder screws in a brake system it is always a possibility that air bubbles can enter. Thus it is wise not to open the screws so much that fluid runs out by gravity rather than by pressure at the piston or the pedal. Also, make sure that you re-tighten the bleeder screw once you find that the caliper piston is retracted enough to slide the caliper over the newly installed brake pad/shim assembly.

205 horsepower @ 4500 rpm.

i would consult your maunal and look for your "lights" fuse and that should turn them off once its pulled. im not quite sure what it would be labeled but it sould say "lights" or "Alt Lights"