Ford Windstar GL

it is on the trans,right side you will have to remove cat.converters to access.

go and buy a new one, or by pass it by taking it out and removing it altogether.

also you could try opening up the box and checking if anything has blown, find the bit and replace it....thats what i did....

The best way to replace the transmission in your 2000 Ford Windstar is to drop both the motor & transmission, Here are the instructions,

Disconnect All wiring from engine and trans. Move wiring harness away. disconnect fuel lines at the fuel rail next to intake. remove starter. remove power steering lines. evacuate AC and remove ac lines.drain radiator remove hoses. remove radiator. Raise vehicle. remove starter remove exhaust pipes @ manifold. un plug 02 sensors remove the bolts on Torq converter. remove all bolts on trans. including trans mount bolts . The HARD part is having something to lower the cradle on. You have to lower both engine & trans then R&R the trans.

If you are trying to control the amount of resistance or force required to open the door, there are two adjustments that can possibly be made. The first thing to check

is the back check valve. This valve adjustment is used to cushion the door from opening too far. If this valve is adjusted improperly, the door will start to slow down too soon in the opening cycle and will be hard to open.

The other adjustment is the power adjustment. This adjustment sets the spring adjustment and sizes the door closer. Adjusting the sizing spring will make the door easier to open.

If you can provide me with a model number I can provide you with a link to the manufacturer's instructions for installation and adjustments.

if the closer is a LCN 4040, they have a valve on the back (surface that touches the door when its mounted) that is the backcheck selection valve, it is really important when installing the door closer on a paralell mount to CLOSE the valve (turn Allen wrench to right as far in as possible until it stops)

if this step was missed during installation of the LCN 4040, what you can do is open door, close both sweep and latch valves on the closer then remove the 4 mounting screws, pull closer from the door a little so you have room to get Allen wrench behind closer to close the valve, when its closed, put closer back on door and put the 4 screws back in and adjust the sweep and latch valves back to were they were,

if the closer is a 4010, you will see the valves at top of closer body, these 4010's DO NOT have the backcheck selection valve.

if you DO NOT close the valve when installing the closer to push side of the door, backcheck will not work because of the geometrics of the arm angles the closer's internal piston does not reach the backcheck adjustment valve and dampen opening force.

if you are going to install the 4040 on push side using parallel arm, close the valve, if mounting the closer on the PULL side of door with regular arm mounting OPEN the valve (about 3 or 4 complete turns)

hope this helps

Could be the water pump is not working properly.

Your Oil curdles, you head gasket may leak anti-freeze into your gas, your head may crack and anti-freeze will get in your oil, the motor may crack open, your pistons may seaze up. Oil- Do a flush with Oil Flusher to clean this up. Gasket - If you are lucky. $300 Canadian. Head - If theres water in your oil, you head is cracked. God forbid. $150CAD for inspection, specific cost to your vehicle for new head. Will have to do both gasket and head in this case at least $1000CAD Motor Crack open - If she's new, replace the motor, if shes old, sell her quick for parts or fixup for someone who has free parts in their back yard.

inside the door latch itself

The speed sensor on a 98 Jetta is located near the brake setup. It is on the passenger wheel area mounted to a bracket.

On the trans.

The relay is located in the 12 volt ignition wiring harness going to the starter. The small wire on the starter is the ignition switch. The relay is located in the wiring harness. Are you sure the starter solnoide is not bad? When the ignition key is turned to the start location, you should read 14.1 volts going to the starter. If you read 14.1 volts, and the starter does not turn over. Check battery, and cables. Ok, Then replacement of starter is necessary. Starter bolts are 13mm. Brakeline bracket bolt is 15mm. Solnoide bolts are 13mm. Should take no more than 20 minutes to remove starter.
Follow the + battery cable either mounted on the inner fender or on top of the starter

remove two mounting screws from the bulb housing, carefully pry the housing off, twist the rubber bulb holder half a turn, pull the bulb out and replace. This is detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

check the maf sensor

You may want to check the IMRC's which control fuel flow on the intakes. These went bad on my 97.

With the petcock on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. Or for a faster but messier way take the lower rad hose off where it joins to the rad.

Sounds to me like this might be due to your A/C cycling on and off if you have it set to defrost. It does this to dry out the air that it routes to the windshield so that it can more effectively de-fog the glass. When the A/C engages, it puts load on the engine, and thus the RPM must increase to keep it at idle.

I'm not a mechanic but I would start by checking the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder in your engine compartment

No - the check engine light is strictly a communication device. Does not perform any functional role beyond that.

The voltage regulator is built into the side of the alternator.

speed sensor on top of transmission,if the speed sensor does not work then the shift inside the trans is broken and trans will need to be rebuilt

Trying to bleed my 2001 f250 master hyd. clutch and slave cylinder but there are no bleeder valves on either one, I know it has air in lines but can't seam to get it out.

Roll the window up and remove the door panel by first removing the black trim piece just above the panel at the front with a Phillips head screwdriver, then pulling up and out on the panel to remove it from the door. You might need to pull the inside door handle out to be able to remove it enough. The tabs holding the panel in place are along the bottom of the panel. Once you have the panel pulled off, just hang it down in front of the door (the wires connected to the door/windows power button panel will keep you from fully removing it) and look inside of the door where the striker mechanism is. Reach inside a nearby hole and unplug the sensor plugged into the top front of the striker closest to you and tuck it away somewhere out of the way of the window regulator. This will disable the door ajar alarm bell, but still allow the passive restraint seatbelts to work.

To replace motor mounts, they are unbolted and the engine is raised off them. You can use a mobile crane (cherry picker) to lift the engine. The mount is replaced with a new one. Install the engine mount bolts loosely on the block. Leave them loose during engine installation so that the mounts can be more easily aligned with the frame mount brackets. A rolling head prybar is handy when aligning mounts. Use the pointed end to line up the mount bolt holes before installing the mount bolts. A rolling head prybar is helpful when aligning motor mounts. Do not use the engine mount bolts to pull a V-type engine into place. Use shims if necessary to fill any gaps between the mount and block. The Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association reports numerous cases of block distortion resulting in scuffed pistons in cylinders, near mount that were forced tight.

Installing the Oil Pan Make sure the sealing surface of the pan's rim is flat and capable of providing a seal before reinstalling it. Check the flanges of a steel oil pan for warpage. Use a straightedge or lay the pan, flange side down, on a flat surface with a flashlight underneath it to spot uneven edges. Checking the flatness of an oil pan flange. Used with permission of Detroit Gasket - Copyright 1999. Carefully check the flange around bolt holes. Minor distortions can be corrected with a hammer and block of wood. If the flanges are too bent to be repaired in this manner, the pan should be replaced. Once it has been determined that the flanges are flat, install the oil pan with a new gasket. Tighten the screws evenly. Do not tighten any of the screws all of the way until all of the screws are started in their threads. Use an inch-pound torque wrench to torque the screws to specifications. Look this up in the service manual. Specifications usually range from 60 to 150 inch-pounds. This is not very much, but it compresses the gasket and allows it to work properly.

In a 1998 Ford Windstar :

There were 2 engine sizes offered from the factory :

A 3.0 liter V6 engine and the 3.8 liter V6 engine

On a 1998 Ford Windstar ( 3.0 and 3.8 liter V6 engines )

It uses a 4 speed automatic / overdrive transaxle ( transmission )