Geo Metro

test the fuel pressure witha guage Smell the exhaust The cat is clogged if you smell rotten eggs or hear a whistling, blowing sound from the tailpipe

remove screws from within the engine compartment that fasten it in place.

More detailed info is needed. There are 2 obvious screws that can be removed. But there is still one or more holding the fixture in place. How many screws are there to be removed and where are they located? Or, alternateively, how do you get to them? Is it possible that the third item is not a screw but some sort of press fit or snap in connector?

after the two screws are removed pull straight out on the plastic piece. There are two snap in plugs which will release.

Sometimes I think these answers are left by mechanics just to frustrate people. There are two different kinds of headlight assemblies on the 1997 Geo Metro. One is called the sealed beam assembly. It has a sealed beam headlight which is all one unit (like all headlights used to be). With this fixture, according to the book, there are supposedly just the two top screws and it pulls out - I wouldn't know for sure - I don't have that model. But on my model, which has the composite type of headlight assembly - the kind where the halogen bulb inserts into the back of the unit - there are three screws. There are the obvious top two screws, and another one under the unit which is a bugger to get to. The best way is to remove the blinker unit underneath the headlight assembly (it pops out with just two screws removed) and then you will be able to shine a light back there and see the 3rd screw (look straight in and then slightly up). It screws in parallel to the ground - from front to back, NOT perpendicular like the other two. You'll have to reach in from underneath the car to get to it, and you'll need the correct sized little screwdriver or driver unit for your rachet to get it out. It's the same size as the other two screws, so if your screwdriver fits good on those it's the correct size, but you'll need a short handled screwdriver to fit under there! The headlamp assembly then just pulls out (wiggle it carefully, also be sure to unplug the wiring from the two lights - the big one just unplugs - the little bulb (the running light) has a snap catch, or you can just turn the part where it attaches to the assembly and the whole bulb will come out. However, there really is no need the remove the whole headlamp assembly unit if it's just the headlight that needs replacing. To replace the halogen headlight, first unplug the wiring, then turn the snap ring until it comes off, and carefully de-latch the metal "wire" holder that holds the halogen bulb in place. You may have to loosen a screw to do this, and take great care to see how this metal wire holder is on there, because it'll just pop off of there, and you'll have a devil of a time figuring out how it went on there to hold the bulb down (at least the first time you do it - after that you'll be OK - but if you take the time at the start to note how it's on there you'll save yourself a lot of grief!) If you are replacing the headlight on the drivers side, you'll also have to remove the battery first, but in my opinion, that's still easier than removing the entire headlamp unit. Good luck - you can do it!!

Try changing the fluid and filter.

how do you replace 1997 alternator belt

The newest phone in Metro PCS is The Samsung Craft , it's INCREDIBLE ! but it's $300 , if your looking for something cheaper the samsung Messenger II is very Good too , i had that phone for 2 years ! i loved it i think you should go with that phone and it's not too expensive ! : ) hope this was Helpful .

they make a machine called a gas all and you can stick a tube into the tank and crank it and it will suck the tank dry. otherwise you will have to remove the tank and empty it by turning it upside down. If your filler tube does not have a screen in it you may be able to drop a hose and suck on it to create a siphon but i do not recommend this as fuel fumes are toxic

Disconnect any wires, and remove the 2 pins that face up and down. You should have someone hold the door, while someone else removes the pins.

yes, if it's a 3 cylinder Mr Geo Metro yes, if it's a 3 cylinder Mr Geo Metro

check fuses, check bulbs, from there see if there is a grond for your reverse lights that may need cleaning. If still no lights, make sure there is a good wire back to the transmission for your lights. Still no luck, look into the sensor on tranny for your reverse lights. Good luck.

I believe in the range between 1800 and 1900 Ibs.

It's either in your fuse box inside the car and should be labeled or under the hood in that fuse box.

hmm, I've been having a similar problem with my own little '95 Geo hatchback; mine's an automatic, and i actually get sporadic RPM's when accelerating around 60mph. it never really seems to settle itself down over time (i.e., long trips at a constant speed over 60mph....), but also has not presented any problems in it's operation, either.just for peace of mind, though, check your timing belt, make sure it doesn't seem too loose or too tight, or damaged/frayed; if that checks out OK, take it to AAMCO and have them double check your transmission.

I just purchased a 94 for my daughter, when I purchased the car it did just what your talking about. I checked the trans oil and it was low. I added half a quart and zoom! No problems yet.. its been two days, but Ive been driving it everywhere. i thought I would have to buy a transmission for it! Then again, that would only be a couple hundred... love the car so far!! Hope that helps! Keep an eye on all your fluids!

The 1995 Chevrolet Geo flashing amber engine light is an indication that the engine needs to be checked soon. A red flashing engine light is an indication the engine needs to be checked immediately.

under the hood, drivers side, there are two different boxes on a 95 geo's, there is also a box for your dash stuff under steering wheel way up in there above the brake pedal.

Owners manual recommends Dexron II ATF

if the engines that they came off of are the same it should work

NO drain plug... the fill plug is the dipstick tube. Oops, that's the automatic. No drain plug and the fill plug is half way up and looks like a square peg

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

I concur with the first reply. I just did the front wheel bearings on my 1993, and my Haynes manual was pretty thorough. Just remember to remove the ball joint bolt (1) completely or the joint will not separate due to the grooved bolt. You'll get it when you pull the bolt all the way out.

Crawl under the vehicle and follow the exhaust from the engine to the rear of the vehicle. Somewhere in between you will see the coverter. It should be the first pod shaped fixture, immediately after the exhaust manifold.(approx. the size of a loaf of bread)

No, it doesn't. It adjustable with a lock nut on the end of the cable.

depends if its a base or gsi the base would have a 1.6 sohc and the gsi would have a 1.8dohc older gsi's have the 1.6 dohc

Look up Pontiac Firefly. These were available in Canada as an option. We got the old N/A treatment here in the states.

On engine casing, passenger's side, on flange that bolts to transmission. Probably covered with engine gunk.