Geo Tracker

Depending on whether you go to a dealer or a local mechanic, you can probably expect a range of $500 at the dealer, down to $150 or so at a local. The belt is cheap, but don't figure you can change it yourself like the alternator or power steering belt. It requires the cover and other parts to come off and then that the timing is set properly with the right tension. It will cost you alot more if you mess it up and the belt slips or isn't set up right, causing engine damage.

The rattle may be caused by either a bad bearing in one of the pump wheels, (ie water pump, power steering, etc.) or the belt tensioner has seized. My tracker's tensioner had seized up, and while it didn't rattle on acceleration or deceleration, it would rattle when the engine was started on a cold day, due to the belt being lose. It wasn't a squeal either, but it sounded like someone was shaking a pop can full of marbles. Living in northern Ontario Canada, we have some cold days, and it would rattle quite loudly. Other than that i really have no other ideas. Hope this helps!

Good luck!

Make sure that the shift lever is fully in park. Make sure it is the right key... Key or ignition barrel may be worn out. Try pushing the shift lever up and turn the key. For a floor shifter try pressing the brake pedal, push the shifter handel forward while trying to turn the key. You may not believe this now, but I've used this trick on a minivan as well as a standard key-driven padlock...take a large firm object, such as a 2x4 or a large rock, and smack the end of the key directly into (towards) the steering column as you would a nail that you were driving into a board. This will often align the tumblers in the ingnition switch and allow the teeth in the key to find their home and allow the key to turn. Otherwise, the tumblers are misaligned and no not recognize the key you are using. This will impress even the most skeptical of auto-philes.

When you take off the transmission oil pan, you'll see it. Follow the wire from the electrical connector where it comes in to the trans. Ed

put 4.5 in then start motor and let run for a second. shut it off then check the amount then add more if needed.

I get between 28 and 32 mpg at 55 mph. ed

It's more of an alignment question than a torque question. Once the alignment is good, snug them up well and you'll be fine. As many as I've done, on many different brands of vehicles, I've never used a torque wrench.

THERE IS A COMPLETE ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM IN THE CHILTON'S REPAIR MANUAL.

Haynes also has a fairly good diagram, I found the dealers shop repair manual to be the best source, most GM dealers will make a photo-copy of whichever pages you need

Go to ecmtogo.com. I just bought a reman. for my Plymouth. Their website tells ya all you need to know. Prices are reasonable, and the warrenty on products sold is great. Scared of ordering online?, call them on the phone, they are very nice and will definitely help you, heck they managed to help me.

Umm, just wide enough to not hit the fenderwells when you turn?

Seriously, If one of the guys or gals here don't know exactly, as I

don't, you could run the car into your local tire shop. Those guys

are pretty amazing and can probably give you a good idea in

just a minute's time.

FriPilot

the whole thing or just the knob.

the 5speed shifter or the 4wd shifter. sigh.

whole thing. 5sp

pull seats.

pull center console.

remove boots.

remove 2 side screws on shifter base , twist , out.

I just fixed this:) First remove the steering wheel. Be scertain of wheel position and st/wheel posion before removing-paint an alignment mark) There will be a copper contact on the contolhousing. Bend it out slightly. clean the contact and the contact surface on the back of the steering column. If that works your done. I wasnt so lucky. If it did not work lift the hood and find the steering knuckle. I do not know if it is normal (I am 3rd owner) but I found a broken groung wire that was attached to the steering knuckle. After repairing and testing all is well. I am looking for a better ground point to prevent future problems. so if any ideas??

I believe the hood release is in the glove compartment on the right at the top.

With mine the plug for the fuel pump, sending unit etc., is located in the cavity above the drivers side rear tire. Corrosion had killed it. Access is through the rear light assembly.Replaced plug and it is fixed

Hi, If you're talking about the bulb, all you do is turn the locking ring/cap and gently pull the bulb out from the back. Remove the bulb and replace (don't touch the bulb with your fingers) with a new 9004 bulb. When you remove the bulb, be careful not to lose the wave washer if your requires one ( those made in Canada require a wave washer). If your locking cap is just loose and doesn't lock tightly, then you most likely need the wave washer available from your local Suzuki dealer. I tried GM and they said there were none in the country so I went to my Suzuki dealer. Part # 35177-60AB0 about $3.53. If it's the entire headlight assy then start by removing the bulb. The rest of the assy looks as if you need to remove the grill first to get at some screws and be able to remove and reinstall the assy. I've gone out to mine and looked this over. There are some screws on the inside of the engine area, well at least under the hood at the headlight assy. It looks to be a rather straightforward removal and installation. I just would look for prts at a salvage yard (junkyard) or whatever they call it in your area, even auto reclamation area, they all do the same thing. You may have to remove it yourself or they may do it, I've found it varies but I've been able to re-equip my '97 with quite a few things that way. E-Bay is the other place for a complete headlight assy, just try and not pay too much if you go that way. I've also replaced my bulbs (9004) with the Sylvania Ultra and love them, again, just be careful and not touch them. If you get body oil or a fingerprint on a halogen bulb, the bulb gets hotter at the place where you touch it. The light pattern is not correct and the life of the bulb is shortened because it burns hotter at that point and can dramaticly shoten the bulb life. Well, good luck and I hope this helps if you haven't already done all this.

Firstly do not hot wire the injector it will either fry it or the injector circuits in the ECU.

There are two transistors that control the injector circuits on the board.

But the most common fail are the 3 can shaped capacitors

Check out www.suzukiforums.com or better yet http://www.kick-fix.com/index.html for full detail on how to repair the ECU.

I have recently completed this repair and it worked like a charm.

On_mitch

disconnect battery or connection to starter and take it off.

release is in the glove box

change the turnsignal switch i have done this several times, my tracker has 335,000 original miles

less than 2000

on the passenger side of the engine. you can see it from the top and it has a rubber boot on the forward end.

That means its junk take it to your near by junk yard That means its junk take it to your near by junk yard

If it's like a 1996 tracker the headlights won't come on unless the parking brake is released or the light switch is on.

I don't know what a thermal flasher is.

In the owners manual. The jack and jack handle are under the passenger seat