Geo Tracker

When you take off the transmission oil pan, you'll see it. Follow the wire from the electrical connector where it comes in to the trans. Ed

put 4.5 in then start motor and let run for a second. shut it off then check the amount then add more if needed.

I get between 28 and 32 mpg at 55 mph. ed

It's more of an alignment question than a torque question. Once the alignment is good, snug them up well and you'll be fine. As many as I've done, on many different brands of vehicles, I've never used a torque wrench.

THERE IS A COMPLETE ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM IN THE CHILTON'S REPAIR MANUAL.

Haynes also has a fairly good diagram, I found the dealers shop repair manual to be the best source, most GM dealers will make a photo-copy of whichever pages you need

Go to ecmtogo.com. I just bought a reman. for my Plymouth. Their website tells ya all you need to know. Prices are reasonable, and the warrenty on products sold is great. Scared of ordering online?, call them on the phone, they are very nice and will definitely help you, heck they managed to help me.

Umm, just wide enough to not hit the fenderwells when you turn?

Seriously, If one of the guys or gals here don't know exactly, as I

don't, you could run the car into your local tire shop. Those guys

are pretty amazing and can probably give you a good idea in

just a minute's time.

FriPilot

the whole thing or just the knob.

the 5speed shifter or the 4wd shifter. sigh.

whole thing. 5sp

pull seats.

pull center console.

remove boots.

remove 2 side screws on shifter base , twist , out.

I just fixed this:) First remove the steering wheel. Be scertain of wheel position and st/wheel posion before removing-paint an alignment mark) There will be a copper contact on the contolhousing. Bend it out slightly. clean the contact and the contact surface on the back of the steering column. If that works your done. I wasnt so lucky. If it did not work lift the hood and find the steering knuckle. I do not know if it is normal (I am 3rd owner) but I found a broken groung wire that was attached to the steering knuckle. After repairing and testing all is well. I am looking for a better ground point to prevent future problems. so if any ideas??

I believe the hood release is in the glove compartment on the right at the top.

With mine the plug for the fuel pump, sending unit etc., is located in the cavity above the drivers side rear tire. Corrosion had killed it. Access is through the rear light assembly.Replaced plug and it is fixed

Hi, If you're talking about the bulb, all you do is turn the locking ring/cap and gently pull the bulb out from the back. Remove the bulb and replace (don't touch the bulb with your fingers) with a new 9004 bulb. When you remove the bulb, be careful not to lose the wave washer if your requires one ( those made in Canada require a wave washer). If your locking cap is just loose and doesn't lock tightly, then you most likely need the wave washer available from your local Suzuki dealer. I tried GM and they said there were none in the country so I went to my Suzuki dealer. Part # 35177-60AB0 about $3.53. If it's the entire headlight assy then start by removing the bulb. The rest of the assy looks as if you need to remove the grill first to get at some screws and be able to remove and reinstall the assy. I've gone out to mine and looked this over. There are some screws on the inside of the engine area, well at least under the hood at the headlight assy. It looks to be a rather straightforward removal and installation. I just would look for prts at a salvage yard (junkyard) or whatever they call it in your area, even auto reclamation area, they all do the same thing. You may have to remove it yourself or they may do it, I've found it varies but I've been able to re-equip my '97 with quite a few things that way. E-Bay is the other place for a complete headlight assy, just try and not pay too much if you go that way. I've also replaced my bulbs (9004) with the Sylvania Ultra and love them, again, just be careful and not touch them. If you get body oil or a fingerprint on a halogen bulb, the bulb gets hotter at the place where you touch it. The light pattern is not correct and the life of the bulb is shortened because it burns hotter at that point and can dramaticly shoten the bulb life. Well, good luck and I hope this helps if you haven't already done all this.

Firstly do not hot wire the injector it will either fry it or the injector circuits in the ECU.

There are two transistors that control the injector circuits on the board.

But the most common fail are the 3 can shaped capacitors

Check out www.suzukiforums.com or better yet http://www.kick-fix.com/index.html for full detail on how to repair the ECU.

I have recently completed this repair and it worked like a charm.

On_mitch

disconnect battery or connection to starter and take it off.

release is in the glove box

change the turnsignal switch i have done this several times, my tracker has 335,000 original miles

less than 2000

on the passenger side of the engine. you can see it from the top and it has a rubber boot on the forward end.

That means its junk take it to your near by junk yard That means its junk take it to your near by junk yard

If it's like a 1996 tracker the headlights won't come on unless the parking brake is released or the light switch is on.

I don't know what a thermal flasher is.

In the owners manual. The jack and jack handle are under the passenger seat

http://www.kick-fix.com/INJECTORS/depressure.html

here

first check for contamination, pull master cylander cap off, if it has rubber underneath the cap and it's expanded or heavily distorted a petroleum product (such as oil) is in the system. the whole brake system will have to be redone, including brake hoses, mc, prop valve, height sensor, and any thing else rubber relatted in the system. also over adjusted rear brakes or over adjusted e brake can cause this. but check for contamination first this is a serious safety issue.

Go to your local parts store and buy the correct oil filter and 5 litres of oil. Then place a wide pan (able to hold 5 litres) under the oil pan. Lay on the ground or a creeper and slide under the engine, on the bottom of the oil pan there is a bolt (not holding the pan to the engine block) undo this bolt and catch all the oil in the pan on the ground. Now using an oil filter wrench remove the oil filter and catch that oil in the big pan too. Take the new filter and dip your finger in some oil, and wipe that oil on the rubber seal on the oil filter. Clean the oil filter location on the side of the engine block and thread the oil filer on and hand tighten it DO NOT tighten with the wrench. Clean the drain plug and the drain hole on the oil pan and thread the plug back in be carfull not to tighten too hard with the wrench it only takes about 5 foot pounds. Now fill the engine with 3 litres wait a minute and check the oil level on the dip stick. Add oil until dip stick says it's full, it should take about 4 litres.