Geo Tracker

Check the GEO Trackers transmission fluid. The fluid could be low, or the fluid could show metal parts indicating a transmission problem causing the noise.

exhaust will be smoky. exhaust temperature will be high.

Usually you can. If you cannot then you may want to remove one or all spark plugs to reduce compression.

you dont ... you get a new starter motor because your cylinoid is busted ..... == A better answer is you let it sit for half an hour or more while the starter cools down. It will start again when the engine cools down. The starter heats up from starting, the engine conducting heat, and from being next to the exhaust manifold. Cheap starter rebuilders do not leave enough room for thermal expansion. You have a rebuilt starter. ALWAYS insist on a BOSCH starter! You do need a new starter. I went through 2 starters before I found this out. Automatic transmission starters suffer from heat-soak, especially as they age. VW knew about this, issued a technical bulletin about it and installed hot-start relay kits on affected cars. You can easily do it yourself: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2593146 ; be sure the heat-shield is in-place as well.

no

195

Probably the timing chain began to wear out and finally broke. Happened to another car of mine with similar engine. Its possible the main bearings or the rod bearings gave out and locked it up. You'll have to drop the oil pan and see if they turned. If they did its time for a new engine or atleast a rebuild. Its also possible the timing chain broke and the piston and valves clashed, for that the head has to come off. I have a 98 tracker. My engine started making a clicking sound. My dad has worked on alot of vehicals in his lifetime. He thought it was the timining belt breaking cause the sound was coming from there. I ordered the belt in, and he took the vehical apart to replace, just to find out that the belt was okay. But I got him to replace it. I phoned around including chev and they informed me to take it in and have it checked. I live 4 hours away to the nearest place I can have it checked. I wind up taking a day off so I can take it in, I filled it up with gas and I left. On the way over there my vehical kept on losing power and dipping to 50km/h and so fourth, the engine sounded okay but it kept on doing that. A normal ride that took 4 hours took 5.5 hours with a few minutes stop in between. when it came to going up a hill, it lost power, going up at 20km/h. Well I finally made it there. The service person told me that there was a few possibilities why this would happen and I told them to do whatever they have to do to make it run properly again, they even though it might have been the catalylic converter and they were ready to make a bypass by putting in a straight pipe to the muffler, they assured me it wouldn't damage the vehical. But anyway an hour and half later, they phoned me back and told me my vehical was ready. I came to the garage and they told me that all the problem I was having turned out to be the timing and so I paid for their service and went my way. The vehical was running ok. On the way back, my vehical seemed to have more power than usual and my rpms were normal, I thought that was probably what I was having a problem with. Well after 2.5 hours of driving home, my engined just went dead. I cranked it and it cranked okay. It was minus 30 degrees celcius, I was prepared but I was there for 3 hours and luckily I was prepared by grabbing winter clothing. Well i phoned home and my dad picked me up. I got it towed to the nearest town and I went home. Three days later, the temperature was back up to plus 3 degrees and I thought my vehical had froze because it was too cold. But we towed it back to my town. I checked everything, including the gas filter and pump and distributer cab to see if there were sparks. Everything checked out. My dad removed the spark plug and put a metal thing inside to see if my valves were working and sure enough it wasn't moving. He took my front end of the engine apart cause he thought the belt was broken, it wasn't. He checked the crankshaft and here a tiny little metal pin like thing he calls a key was worn out and no longer moving the engine. He got another of this pin thingy and he replaced it along with a cement mixing compound. He put everything back together and I never had a problem. Overall, check to see if the engine is cranking properly, if not check the timing belt and if it is okay, check that pin thingy, it is located on the crankshaft pully thingy.. I know it was a long story, but I just thought I'd let you know what I went through. If you would like to contact me, you may email me at rdjanvier@sasktel.net

Manual Tranny is the same as Automatic Tranny when towing a 2WD.

2WD (Tow from back): Secure the rear wheels with a towing dolly (follow instructions for the dolly), set key to ACC, Make sure wheels are straight forward and secure the steering wheel with a clamping device for towing. The column isn't strong enough for shocks from the front wheels, make sure it's unlocked (setting it to ACC) before towing.

Depending on whether you go to a dealer or a local mechanic, you can probably expect a range of $500 at the dealer, down to $150 or so at a local. The belt is cheap, but don't figure you can change it yourself like the alternator or power steering belt. It requires the cover and other parts to come off and then that the timing is set properly with the right tension. It will cost you alot more if you mess it up and the belt slips or isn't set up right, causing engine damage.

The rattle may be caused by either a bad bearing in one of the pump wheels, (ie water pump, power steering, etc.) or the belt tensioner has seized. My tracker's tensioner had seized up, and while it didn't rattle on acceleration or deceleration, it would rattle when the engine was started on a cold day, due to the belt being lose. It wasn't a squeal either, but it sounded like someone was shaking a pop can full of marbles. Living in northern Ontario Canada, we have some cold days, and it would rattle quite loudly. Other than that i really have no other ideas. Hope this helps!

Good luck!

Make sure that the shift lever is fully in park. Make sure it is the right key... Key or ignition barrel may be worn out. Try pushing the shift lever up and turn the key. For a floor shifter try pressing the brake pedal, push the shifter handel forward while trying to turn the key. You may not believe this now, but I've used this trick on a minivan as well as a standard key-driven padlock...take a large firm object, such as a 2x4 or a large rock, and smack the end of the key directly into (towards) the steering column as you would a nail that you were driving into a board. This will often align the tumblers in the ingnition switch and allow the teeth in the key to find their home and allow the key to turn. Otherwise, the tumblers are misaligned and no not recognize the key you are using. This will impress even the most skeptical of auto-philes.

When you take off the transmission oil pan, you'll see it. Follow the wire from the electrical connector where it comes in to the trans. Ed

put 4.5 in then start motor and let run for a second. shut it off then check the amount then add more if needed.

I get between 28 and 32 mpg at 55 mph. ed

It's more of an alignment question than a torque question. Once the alignment is good, snug them up well and you'll be fine. As many as I've done, on many different brands of vehicles, I've never used a torque wrench.

THERE IS A COMPLETE ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM IN THE CHILTON'S REPAIR MANUAL.

Haynes also has a fairly good diagram, I found the dealers shop repair manual to be the best source, most GM dealers will make a photo-copy of whichever pages you need

Go to ecmtogo.com. I just bought a reman. for my Plymouth. Their website tells ya all you need to know. Prices are reasonable, and the warrenty on products sold is great. Scared of ordering online?, call them on the phone, they are very nice and will definitely help you, heck they managed to help me.

Umm, just wide enough to not hit the fenderwells when you turn?

Seriously, If one of the guys or gals here don't know exactly, as I

don't, you could run the car into your local tire shop. Those guys

are pretty amazing and can probably give you a good idea in

just a minute's time.

FriPilot

the whole thing or just the knob.

the 5speed shifter or the 4wd shifter. sigh.

whole thing. 5sp

pull seats.

pull center console.

remove boots.

remove 2 side screws on shifter base , twist , out.

I just fixed this:) First remove the steering wheel. Be scertain of wheel position and st/wheel posion before removing-paint an alignment mark) There will be a copper contact on the contolhousing. Bend it out slightly. clean the contact and the contact surface on the back of the steering column. If that works your done. I wasnt so lucky. If it did not work lift the hood and find the steering knuckle. I do not know if it is normal (I am 3rd owner) but I found a broken groung wire that was attached to the steering knuckle. After repairing and testing all is well. I am looking for a better ground point to prevent future problems. so if any ideas??

I believe the hood release is in the glove compartment on the right at the top.

With mine the plug for the fuel pump, sending unit etc., is located in the cavity above the drivers side rear tire. Corrosion had killed it. Access is through the rear light assembly.Replaced plug and it is fixed

Hi, If you're talking about the bulb, all you do is turn the locking ring/cap and gently pull the bulb out from the back. Remove the bulb and replace (don't touch the bulb with your fingers) with a new 9004 bulb. When you remove the bulb, be careful not to lose the wave washer if your requires one ( those made in Canada require a wave washer). If your locking cap is just loose and doesn't lock tightly, then you most likely need the wave washer available from your local Suzuki dealer. I tried GM and they said there were none in the country so I went to my Suzuki dealer. Part # 35177-60AB0 about $3.53. If it's the entire headlight assy then start by removing the bulb. The rest of the assy looks as if you need to remove the grill first to get at some screws and be able to remove and reinstall the assy. I've gone out to mine and looked this over. There are some screws on the inside of the engine area, well at least under the hood at the headlight assy. It looks to be a rather straightforward removal and installation. I just would look for prts at a salvage yard (junkyard) or whatever they call it in your area, even auto reclamation area, they all do the same thing. You may have to remove it yourself or they may do it, I've found it varies but I've been able to re-equip my '97 with quite a few things that way. E-Bay is the other place for a complete headlight assy, just try and not pay too much if you go that way. I've also replaced my bulbs (9004) with the Sylvania Ultra and love them, again, just be careful and not touch them. If you get body oil or a fingerprint on a halogen bulb, the bulb gets hotter at the place where you touch it. The light pattern is not correct and the life of the bulb is shortened because it burns hotter at that point and can dramaticly shoten the bulb life. Well, good luck and I hope this helps if you haven't already done all this.

Firstly do not hot wire the injector it will either fry it or the injector circuits in the ECU.

There are two transistors that control the injector circuits on the board.

But the most common fail are the 3 can shaped capacitors

Check out www.suzukiforums.com or better yet http://www.kick-fix.com/index.html for full detail on how to repair the ECU.

I have recently completed this repair and it worked like a charm.

On_mitch

disconnect battery or connection to starter and take it off.