Geo Tracker

8 digit of the vin num

Check out Suzuki Forum and http://www.kick-fix.com/index.html

Jerry is a Suzuki Tech and very helpful.

On_mitch

Hi, There is a control relay. that when activated, controls the check engine light and the the fuel pump when energized. It could also be fuse FI Blue (15A) which is the electronic fuel injection. I would check all the fuses to insure they're all ok. The control relay is most likely under the hood. Steve H.

You might also check the 15amp fuse near the driver side kick panel - the one marked Ignition/coil. When this is burned out, the engine will turn over but not actually run. The cause(s) of that fuse burning out is the subject of several threads on this site.

go to best top dot com and read the manual. its on line.

google it, zillion hits.

they make the tops for suzuki and tracker.s

It's usually the cable or the speedometer head in the dash that have problems

Is it possible to lubricate the where the cable and the speedometer head cluster meet? If so, how do you get into the head or cluster?

There is no such thing as "clutch fluid" on a manual vehicle. Your manual transmission requires gear oil. I believe 75-90 is a recommended fluid. It goes into your transmission, which is directly below your shifter under your vehicle.

There are two ports on it, one on the bottom side to drain, the other on the backside near the top. Open the top one, stick your finger in, if you don't feel any right away or it is filthy or foamy, drain it and change it... that's it.

After you remove the wheel, there will be two large bolts holding the caliper in place, I believe 17mm. Loosen these two, lift & hang caliper, the roto will slide right off. Assemble with antiseize compound if you have any.

Under the dash left of steering column. If you take out the left speaker by the door you will find the bolts to remove the bracket.

The capacitors in the 1990-1995 are junk but easy to repair. Never try to hot-wire the throttle-body injector to get it running as this will blow out the two transistors in the injector circuit as well or the injector.

I have an easy inexpensive fix for no start no fuel problem with these.

On_mitch

Hi,

I'm interested in the "fix"

1badbaby

On the top of the transmission.

Loosen the component slide it towards the engine to lossen the belt, remove belt. Install in reverse.

If the fan is your problem it is held on with 4 small bolts, remove them and the fan.

P/S you should be able to work the belt around the fan blades without removing the fan.

On_mitch

OH YEAH!!!! i have a 1986 sammie blew up the 1.3 and bought a 1994 sidekick. Check out this swap!!!! we took the motor 5 speed tranny and transfer case from the 94 married a sammie t-case to it and put it in my sammie! it has so much power!!! you have to get the wiring harness out of the sidekick to run it and the fuel pump out of the gas tank to make it work. we made all new brackets and mounts. duel t-cases its bad ass!!! need to know more e-mail me at EightySixou812@yahoo.com. I have lots of pics.

If I read your question correctly, no. The ECM (engine Control Module) is the computer that controls the engine injector and all it's related idle controls. In addition, it controls all the smog controls and mixture to the engine.

It would be tough for the engine to run correctly without proper control.

Don't be scared of the ECM and the related controls, they are all very predictable.

Check the GEO Trackers transmission fluid. The fluid could be low, or the fluid could show metal parts indicating a transmission problem causing the noise.

exhaust will be smoky. exhaust temperature will be high.

Usually you can. If you cannot then you may want to remove one or all spark plugs to reduce compression.

you dont ... you get a new starter motor because your cylinoid is busted ..... == A better answer is you let it sit for half an hour or more while the starter cools down. It will start again when the engine cools down. The starter heats up from starting, the engine conducting heat, and from being next to the exhaust manifold. Cheap starter rebuilders do not leave enough room for thermal expansion. You have a rebuilt starter. ALWAYS insist on a BOSCH starter! You do need a new starter. I went through 2 starters before I found this out. Automatic transmission starters suffer from heat-soak, especially as they age. VW knew about this, issued a technical bulletin about it and installed hot-start relay kits on affected cars. You can easily do it yourself: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2593146 ; be sure the heat-shield is in-place as well.

no

195

Probably the timing chain began to wear out and finally broke. Happened to another car of mine with similar engine. Its possible the main bearings or the rod bearings gave out and locked it up. You'll have to drop the oil pan and see if they turned. If they did its time for a new engine or atleast a rebuild. Its also possible the timing chain broke and the piston and valves clashed, for that the head has to come off. I have a 98 tracker. My engine started making a clicking sound. My dad has worked on alot of vehicals in his lifetime. He thought it was the timining belt breaking cause the sound was coming from there. I ordered the belt in, and he took the vehical apart to replace, just to find out that the belt was okay. But I got him to replace it. I phoned around including chev and they informed me to take it in and have it checked. I live 4 hours away to the nearest place I can have it checked. I wind up taking a day off so I can take it in, I filled it up with gas and I left. On the way over there my vehical kept on losing power and dipping to 50km/h and so fourth, the engine sounded okay but it kept on doing that. A normal ride that took 4 hours took 5.5 hours with a few minutes stop in between. when it came to going up a hill, it lost power, going up at 20km/h. Well I finally made it there. The service person told me that there was a few possibilities why this would happen and I told them to do whatever they have to do to make it run properly again, they even though it might have been the catalylic converter and they were ready to make a bypass by putting in a straight pipe to the muffler, they assured me it wouldn't damage the vehical. But anyway an hour and half later, they phoned me back and told me my vehical was ready. I came to the garage and they told me that all the problem I was having turned out to be the timing and so I paid for their service and went my way. The vehical was running ok. On the way back, my vehical seemed to have more power than usual and my rpms were normal, I thought that was probably what I was having a problem with. Well after 2.5 hours of driving home, my engined just went dead. I cranked it and it cranked okay. It was minus 30 degrees celcius, I was prepared but I was there for 3 hours and luckily I was prepared by grabbing winter clothing. Well i phoned home and my dad picked me up. I got it towed to the nearest town and I went home. Three days later, the temperature was back up to plus 3 degrees and I thought my vehical had froze because it was too cold. But we towed it back to my town. I checked everything, including the gas filter and pump and distributer cab to see if there were sparks. Everything checked out. My dad removed the spark plug and put a metal thing inside to see if my valves were working and sure enough it wasn't moving. He took my front end of the engine apart cause he thought the belt was broken, it wasn't. He checked the crankshaft and here a tiny little metal pin like thing he calls a key was worn out and no longer moving the engine. He got another of this pin thingy and he replaced it along with a cement mixing compound. He put everything back together and I never had a problem. Overall, check to see if the engine is cranking properly, if not check the timing belt and if it is okay, check that pin thingy, it is located on the crankshaft pully thingy.. I know it was a long story, but I just thought I'd let you know what I went through. If you would like to contact me, you may email me at rdjanvier@sasktel.net

Manual Tranny is the same as Automatic Tranny when towing a 2WD.

2WD (Tow from back): Secure the rear wheels with a towing dolly (follow instructions for the dolly), set key to ACC, Make sure wheels are straight forward and secure the steering wheel with a clamping device for towing. The column isn't strong enough for shocks from the front wheels, make sure it's unlocked (setting it to ACC) before towing.

Depending on whether you go to a dealer or a local mechanic, you can probably expect a range of $500 at the dealer, down to $150 or so at a local. The belt is cheap, but don't figure you can change it yourself like the alternator or power steering belt. It requires the cover and other parts to come off and then that the timing is set properly with the right tension. It will cost you alot more if you mess it up and the belt slips or isn't set up right, causing engine damage.

The rattle may be caused by either a bad bearing in one of the pump wheels, (ie water pump, power steering, etc.) or the belt tensioner has seized. My tracker's tensioner had seized up, and while it didn't rattle on acceleration or deceleration, it would rattle when the engine was started on a cold day, due to the belt being lose. It wasn't a squeal either, but it sounded like someone was shaking a pop can full of marbles. Living in northern Ontario Canada, we have some cold days, and it would rattle quite loudly. Other than that i really have no other ideas. Hope this helps!

Good luck!

Make sure that the shift lever is fully in park. Make sure it is the right key... Key or ignition barrel may be worn out. Try pushing the shift lever up and turn the key. For a floor shifter try pressing the brake pedal, push the shifter handel forward while trying to turn the key. You may not believe this now, but I've used this trick on a minivan as well as a standard key-driven padlock...take a large firm object, such as a 2x4 or a large rock, and smack the end of the key directly into (towards) the steering column as you would a nail that you were driving into a board. This will often align the tumblers in the ingnition switch and allow the teeth in the key to find their home and allow the key to turn. Otherwise, the tumblers are misaligned and no not recognize the key you are using. This will impress even the most skeptical of auto-philes.