Heating AC and Engine Cooling

the air filter is under the hood unless your asking about the cabin air filter for the inside air that's coming in for the ac system its behind the glove box

I had the same problem - it's a bad resistor. Most mecahnics can change this and it didn't cost a lot if I remember.

UNDER HOOD, DRIVER SIDE, FRONT SIDE OF STRUT TOWER, MOUNTED ON WHEELWELL.

The cooling system can be pressurized using a cooling system pressure tester. When engine is cool remove the fill cap and attach the tester, since caps are different styles on many vehicles an adapter may be needed. Pump the tester up until the maximum pressure (most caps have max psi on them) of the cooling sytem is reached. If there is a fast leak the max psi may not need to be obtained before the leak is revealed. There is a video at DenLorsTools.com in the tech article section that shows a pressure tester being used, it also has information about purging air from the cooling system after the leak has been repaired.

Blower motor wire fell off blower motor?

Blown fuse?

Resistor pack opened (opening electrical circuit)

Bad switch?

This is not a question

One situation that the overflow jug would cause an overheat condition would be if the hose and/or connectors were plugged up or blocked. NOTE: before disconnecting anything to do with the radiator, ensure the engine is COOL! The cooling system operates under significant pressure.

The 2000 Buick Regal cooling fan circuit relay switch can be found in the fuse box. The fuse box is located in the engine compartment.

pretty sure its in the condensor, it will always be at a fitting that has a steel line that has a crimp mark about three inches from fitting to keep tube in place

Leak in heater core. Replace core.

Try looking on partsamerica.com it's the partner site for advance auto parts. It has a help section that shows diagrams & etc. you.

Clogged radiator, bad water pump, defective fan or fan thermal relay.

I would suggest the you elevate the front of car (like on a steep driveway) remove the rad cap, start engine and let it idle for about 30 minutes. Keep an eye on coolant level and add to keep it full. Air will bleed out as the thermostat cycles. The above is an excellent answer. You might also look and see if there are any bleeder valves on this engine. If so use them to bleed the system. Also make sure the heater is set to the high temperature setting to remove air from the heater core.

Not sure about the CR-V but we are returning our 2006 Pilot to the dealer for the third time to deal with mouse problems. The first time was a dead mouse that got run through the blower fan when my wife turned on the AC this summer. The blower is behind the glove box and I could see the nesting materials when I dropped the door on the glove box out of the way. You might want to look and see if the CR-V has a similar setup. Hope you get it resolved, we're basically done with Pilots if this trip doesn't resolve the problem.

Antifreeze is used as an engine coolant. While keeping an engine from overheating, the liquid also disperses the heat through the vehicles heater core, giving passengers warmth in the winter.

Doesn't matter what type of vehicle, this indicates an exhaust leak and an oil leak. The burnt oil and the exhaust, get pulled into the cowl which is where the air for the interior comes from! Not very healthy...

It could be a number of things, but the most common reason is because oil is thrown up ontop of the engine and burns off from the heat. could be an oil leak. it could be that your radiator is barely cooling down your engine, and slightly burning oil. there are alot of answers to this question.

The intake air temperature or IAT sensor on the 2006 Mondeo is located inside the mass airflow sensor or MAF. In older models it was in the tubing, but now the IAT and MAF are combined.

The radiator cools the engine.

I had this problem ....Head Gasket or radiator cap

There could be blockage in the lines leading to the heater core or in the core itself. You might be low on coolant. The blend door may be stuck in 'vent' position. The valve control may have failed. Except for the low coolant, none of these problems are cheap fixes. See a mechanic but take along somebody you trust who is knowledgeable so you don't get 'taken for a ride.'

does it shut down after driving it above about 40 mph and then when coming to a stop it dies? will start back up but when put in gear immediatly dies again could be torque converter switch in trans. Check igition conrol module which is under the coils. commen problem

If it's a 4 cylinder engine, that's pretty normal. AC compressors take a little extra torque to operate and small engines just need to work a little harder when the AC comes on. There SHOULD be a little bit of an idle speed increase to compensate for the AC, but sometimes the computer, relay or whatever mechanism was used by the vehicle manufacturer, is adjusted wrong. If it's just a minor annoyance, ignore it. It certainly doesn't cause any real problem. If it's really bothering you, you might need to take it to a shop.

Open the hood. From that position, look to the left of the engine, on the firewall, in line with the passenger side windshield wiper next to the fenderwell. Or follow the heater hoses to the firewall. Next to the heater hoses you will see a black 'nozzle' that comes away from the firewall and turns 90 degrees toward the ground. This is the drain tube for the evaporator. I'm assuming (stupidly, of course) that you are attempting to find the drain tube in order to perform a leak check of the evaporator with your electronic leak detector, as these drain tubes never stop up. If this is, in fact, the case, you must know that it is much easier and more accurate to gently pull the 90 degree rubber tube off of the nipple (replacing it, of course when you are finished). One handy method of getting an accurate reading for leaks is to place the leak detector probe against the drain tube (being careful not to allow condensate to enter the probe tip), and have someone gently open one of the doors (all windows up) and then close it briskly. This pushes air from the cab across the evaporator and out of the drain tube, causing the leak detector to go off if, in fact the core is leaking. If you haven't changed a core on one of these before, you might want to check and double check your repair manual. It is challenging. Good Luck, SDIgroup