Heating AC and Engine Cooling

Had this happen once. Found out the thermostat was'nt opening. Replaced it and everything worked fine. Watch your heat gauge, if after a few minutes of the engine running and the gauge goes from nothing to hot imediatly instead of gradully, you;ve probably got a bad thermostat.

R-134a

Any internal coolant leak can cause a milky residue in the valve cover. Head gasket, intake gasket, cracked/warped head, cracked intake are possible causes.

between the grill and the Radiator

Type your answer here... your cooling may be not working and you might have a partially plugged radiator

Sounds like you may need a resistor.

The sensor is threaded into the coolant passage in the back of the cylinder head.

These vehicles have two separate temperature sensors. There is one located in the thermostat housing which tells the ECM when to turn the fans on and off. There is one located in the rear cylinder head on the driver's side that reports the engines temperature to the gauge inside the car. If the sensors are okay check the cooling fan relay, located in the underhood fuse panel. This can be diagnosed using a scanner and viewing the cooling fan status.

I got no responses, but the answer ended up being the battery. Yesterday the original battery died, and the installation of a new battery solved the problem--the idle is now as it should be without surges or jumps.

Yes DX is very cool if you dont know what DX is, it is a Tag team on WWE



ofcourse DX is cool

The heater core is leaking. Replacing the heater core is your best bet.

They started making watercooled VWs in 1970, but the first watercooled VW sold in the US was the Rabbit, which was introduced to the US in 1974. In 1983, the Vanagon was changed to a watercooled engine called the "Wasserboxer." ("Wasser" is German for Water, naturlich.)

Now, as to this Wasserboxer engine: I have NO idea why they came up with this. The engine has picked up the unfortunate nickname "Wasserleaker" because...well, they all do. The Diesel Vanagon used the Rabbit engine, so I don't know why VW didn't use the gas Rabbit engine in a gas Vanagon. (However, YOU don't have to be so encumbered: quite a few guys have changed Diesel Vanagons to Rabbit gas engines. It is a fairly easy change if you are a good mechanic, but you need to change the transmission to a Gas Vanagon one because the diesel transmission is geared very low.)

The problem is either the blower motor resistor or the blower speed selector switch.

Your engine should be cold ( to be on the safe side) when adding antifreeze/coolant. i let the car sit overnight and then add it.

Just spray window de-icer (carefully) between door and frame. Wait two or three minutes. Pull on door, repeat if required.

I am in the process of replacing all the drivebelts on my 1991 Toyota 4x4 pickup 3.0 liter with AC & PS. In order to remove the belts, I had to first remove the radiator hose which effectively blocks easy removal of the fan and fan shroud. Then I had to remove the fan and fan shroud. Fortunately, the power steering belt is the first (front of vehicle) in the series of three drivebelts (power steering, AC, & water pump/alternator), so you won't have to remove any of the others to get to it. I didn't have to remove the belt, since it did the job for me (which is why I am doing this in the first place). But I did clean up the gunk on the pulleys a bit. So now, I just have to put the new belt on, and replace the fan, fan shroud, and radiator hose. We'll see how that goes. -mudmaid

There are a handful of possiblilities. T-stat is one, too weak of antifreeze, leak/low coolant, internal plugging, cooling fan not working off the top of my head.

Open the hood. On the passenger side of the engine compartment, you will see the radiator overflow/combination windshield washer bottle. Using a pair of dikes, carefully remove the presstabs holding this container in. It will be necessary to use a pair of pliers to remove the clamp holding the radiator overflow hose from the tank. Also, you will need to unplug the windshield washer pump plug. Take care not to break the pump off of the tank. Remove the pump hoses with gently pulling. Remove the tank. Mounted to the lower portion of the black, plastic evaporator case you will see a square, electronic unit with a plug on it. Remove the plug using a small, flatblade screwdriver to release the latch. Using a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 5.5mm socket, remove the two gold screws holding the resistor board to the case. The new resistor may be slightly different than the old one and may even require a slight modification (cutting of part of the unused portion of the board to fit. You will see what I am talking about, if necessary) Install the new board using the original screws and reinstall the plug. Do not be surprised if the new board fails shortly after installation as GM has been having serious problems with this unit (which is probably why the new board is slightly different than the original). Generally what is happening is that the high blower relay portion of the boards (original and new)are failing. If this occurs, write me back and I will tell you how to install your own external high blower relay. After the ground fails, write me back again and I will tell you how to supply a 'false' ground to correct this problem as well. Whew! Good luck! SDIgroup

Yes, 90's Subaru's head gaskets do blow out easily.

The problem lies with the radiator not being able to flow enough air due to the trapping of air under the front cover. If air can't flow out, it can't flow in. I suggest adding vents or as I am doing, add a cowl induction hood scoop. Cut out the area between the spare tire compartment and the radiator. Air coming in through the radiator can now flow freely up and out from under the car. It should also help with reducing the amount of lift when traveling at highway speeds. I notice that at 130 mile per hour, the car wants to get really light in the front end.

A cheaper and less labour intensive solution would be to put in a new rad, if your car still has the original there is a good chance it is corroded and damaged from road debris. Another solution is to check the coolant pipes running under the car for kinks. This is a common problem where people have jacked on and kinked the lines as they are close to the jacking points on the chassis.

take off the head, replace gasket. reinstall head

(all items listed are on the passenger side &

leave rear seats in down position)

1) unbolt rear & center seat belts

2) carefully pop the rear top & bottom cover panels loose (center lift hatch area)

3) carefully pop the top door post ( there is a bolt to remove near the seat belt slide adjustment plate) & top rear side post panels loose

4) carefully pop the threshold plate loose at side door area

5) remove the lid over the jack area

6) remove the bolt on passenger side of jack compartment & lift up to access the screw securing side panel

7) carefully start popping the large side panel free (be sure to unplug the

power seats & accessory plug at rear area)

8) access heater & AC

9) reverse order for installation

That depends on your scoop. There are cowl unduction scoops and hoods that help the heat escape toward the windshield using only the wind blowing through your radiator and from under the car. If you use a stick on hood scoop, you would of course have to cut the sheet metal of your hood and treat it to prevent rust, and of course create the duct work that goes to your air intake. This is an aggressive move for minimal gain on horsepower. Subaru's use hood scoops for cooling applications as they place a cooler/radiator under the scoop. Not an air intake.

Some vehicles have higher RPM's (Rotations per minutes) causing them to run at higher temperatures at low speeds. In stop and go situations, you are using low gears at low speeds, causing the engine to work harder. These types of vehicles would be better for high speed commuting where stopping and going frequently is not a problem.

4L60E / 4L80E Always run a scanner first to see if a sensor is causing your problem. You can get a decent one on line or at any good auto parts store. call first to see if they have one. The transmissions, rear wheel drive 4speed automatics that are all computer controlled. Common problems are: Check engine light comes on. The transmission shifts erratically, slips or does not shift at all. These problems can be caused when the external sensors on the vehicle go bad. The input and output speed sensors, throttle position sensor or vehicle speed sensors need to be checked. The 4L60E transmission also has a problem with a hard 1-2 shift when hot, and a 1870 code. When rebuilding the transmission, I recommend that you always replace the valve body plate and install a sonnex Valve Kit TCC Regulator W/Sleeve. This is to help against having these problems in the future. On the 4L60E make sure you always us a AC Delco hardened shell when rebuilding the transmission. The 4L80E transmission has a lot of problems with the input and output speed sensors on the side of the transmission. They should always be checked first if you are having a shifting problem. An ignition switch that goes bad can cause a false shift solenoid code that comes up on a scanner. So be careful.