Honda Accord DX

Check coolant level in RADIATOR when cold When light is blinking turn on heat and see if you have any. If no heat good indication that thermostat is stuck in closed position and needs to be replaced

bad cable

THE TPS-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR IS BAD,IT IS LOCATED ON RIGHT SIDE OF THROTTLE BODY AS YOU LOOK INTO THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT,IT WILL BE BLACK WITH ONE ELEC.PLUG.

check your radio backup 7.5 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. It also controls the clock, not sure of the lighter.

Try getting the fuel injectors cleaned. They had to flush mine twice at the dealership. Cost less than $200. Was well worth it.

It's right there. you can't miss it, on the top right hand side of the engine block. did you look?

The expansion valve is located in the evaporator housing of the air conditioning system. In the Rodeo this is located next to the blower unit underneath the dash, and specifically on the passenger side. Accessing the evaporator unit is a pain in the arse as the little bastard who designed the layout clearly decided that nobody would ever want to just pull the damn thing out to clean it or replace an expansion valve. Had he used his brain it should just have been a matter of taking out the refrigerant from the system (have your service centre do this), undoing the inlet and outlet pipes and undoing the two screws holding the evaporator unit to the firewall. Voila!, you should be able to get it out, replace any component or clean it, reinstall it, recharge the system and away you go. But no. You have to remove the steering wheel, instrument panel, centre console, dash and sundry other bits and pieces to get to the bloody thing. There you go. Vehicle designers should all be made to field strip their creations just so they make future vehicles easily serviceable.

The dipstick is located underneath the air filter. I couldn't find it myself, but eventually a mechanic found it there. I don't recall, but it might have been necessary to take off the air filter cover. Good luck!

auto or stick?? also...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the local library should have a professional shop manual available, to make copies of, in the Reference section...good luck:)

its 1342

In the tank on a '91.

Complete PDF manual with belt guides for all 1986-1989 Honda Accords: http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto/Manuals/Accord/Ab0VE.Honda%20Accord%2086-89%20Service%20Manual.zip

those years it was either or. what is the letters after the car usual si means injected. hope that helps.

I have a 1989 Honda Accord LXI it is fuel injected

i would check fuse panel for blown courtesy light or inst.cluster fuse that would be the first place i would look,assuming of course there are no dash lights what so ever.

Take it to a stereo shop, even those guys says its a bugger to get them out so its best left to a pro

First check the bulbs. The car is designed to let you know if a bulb is burned out. Make sure all bulbs are in working order and are the proper part number. If this doesn't solve the problem it could be the brake lamp failure sensor. There are sensors in both tail lamp housings. There's a 5 pin on the left and 6 pin on the right side. You can remove them by taking out two screws on each one with a Phillips bit and unplugging the harness. Flip each one over and gently pry the two tabs apart on each side and remove the circuit board. Inspect the circuit board for burned or broken connections and inspect the pins and harness for corrosion. The common trunk leaking problem in the Accords will allow water to run right down over the sensors often corroding them. It's possible to use a wire brush or sandpaper to shine up the pins on the disassembled sensor. You can you a pin or similar small object to flute out the tiny connection on the wire harness if it is corroded. Also check for corroded bulb sockets. Poor conductivity can trigger the sensor also.

The fuse panel is located on the drivers side below the dash near the hood release. I have a 1994 Accord LX and the fuse box is actually on the PASSENGER side under the hood near the firewall.

Here is a link to an autoMedia.com's autoCare article which should be helpful. http://www.automedia.com/autoCare/ccr20041201th/ccr20041201th.asp?affid=

This is a very easy repair. Most anyone can do it.

As always, unhook the negative cable from your battery.

Then drain some of the coolant from your radiator. Tighten the draincock after you do. Turn that coolant in for recycling.

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. The thing it's hooked to is the housing for the thermostat. It's in three pieces; the thermostat is in the outermost one. Remove this piece. Look at how the thermostat is oriented in the housing, because it goes back the same way as it came out, and then remove the thermostat.

When you buy your thermostat, always get a new gasket. You put the gasket on the thermostat, put the thermostat in the housing, and put the housing back on the engine. Torque it to 7 lb-ft and you're almost done.

Next, use a 12mm deep well socket to loosen the bleeder bolt. This is on top of the thermostat housing, between the coolant temperature sender (for the gauge) and the thermowax sensor (for the fuel injection system). It looks like a silver bolt with a nipple sticking up out the middle of it, and it's the only thing on there that doesn't have wires coming out of it. Anyway, loosen this up about a half-turn or so. Open the radiator cap and start pouring either "all makes all models" antifreeze, or "Honda Genuine" antifreeze, into the radiator until some comes out of the bleeder bolt. Close the bleeder bolt, put the radiator cap back on, hook the battery back up, and you're done.

Hey Shawn==It is 1-3-4-2 Joe

first leave the car running, open the hood and towards the windshield you'll see a red dip stick that's where you check the tranny fluid.

not all car`s have a dip stick tho

If this noise changes pitch when turning left or right, it's a wheel Bearing that is failing...