Honda Accord EX

95 Honda accord ex 4 door sedan takes 4.5 quarts of oil if changing the filter 2!!!!

I or anyone else would only be guessing. You need to take the vehicle to a professional well yes but i dont want a professional to rip me off so i wanted kind of an idea about what it might be before i go. I understand exactly how you feel. A couple of questions. Have you changed the transmission fluid or added fluid lately. You MUST use Honda ATF-Z1 fluid and no other. Use any other fluid and you will have shift problems. Now if you have not used any other fluid, you can take the vehicle and have the fluid and filter changed and see if that helps. Make sure they flush all the fluid out and not just what is in the pan. If you have used any other fluid you need to get it out of your transmission ASAP. Other than this I cannot tell you exactly why the transmission is not shifting properly. I am no transmission expert and it will take an expert to diagnose the problem. You could have a bad TCU (transmission control unit) but that is just an educated guess. To avoid being ripped off, that it to someone you trust. Ask your friends for recommendations. I can tell you where not to take it. Do not take it to any chain operation such as Mr. Transmission or such place. A trusted independent is a much safer choice. Of course your local Honda dealer would be a good choice but it will more than likely cost more but you will know is is repaired correctly and get a warranty.

It has a timing belt.

In a 2006 GMC Envoy :

Both the 4.2 litre six cylinder engine and the 5.3 litre V8 engine use a timing

CHAIN

It could be as simple as a vacuum leak but without knowing what year, make, model and engine it is hard to tell you what it may be.

My first car was a 1994 Honda Accord LX Coupe, and I'm assuming that the process of changing out the speakers is still the same. To replace the speakers I removed the screws that secured the door panel(the upholstery) to the frame of the door. I believe that there are screws located in the door handle(if there is one) with some screws concealed by square inserts that matches the texture of the handle. You also want to remove the screws that secure the power-lock assembly. Get a flat-tip screw driver and insert it between the door panel and the metal portion of the door, and with a prying motion, pop the door panel out along the left, bottom, and right side(there are protrutions on the backside of the panel that snap into holes in order to secure the door panel to the door). When finished, lower the window all the way. Once lowered, lift the panel and pull out slightly. There are wires connected to the panel(door light, power locks, power windows, etc). Disconnect the wires and set the panel aside. The rest is basic speaker installation:

1)Remove the screws securing the speakers and pull the speaker out.

2)Cut the male and female speaker connectors(assuming you're installing aftermarket speakers) preferably close to the connectors(you need to solder so you want as much slack as possible).

3)Trim the speaker wires that came with the speakers to a desired length.

4)Remove 1/4" of insulation from the speaker wires that came with the speakers and the speaker wires connected to the car.

5)Twist the wires together and solder the wires together(doesn't really matter which wires you solder together. Reversing the polarity doesn't change the sound or quality).

6)Wrap the soldered wires in electrical tape remembering to keep the positive and negative wires separate.

7)Attach the wires to the speaker and mount the speakers onto the door.

Installing the door panel back onto the door is opposite of disassembly.

Intermittent problems are the most difficult to diagnose. You have to catch the car doing it. Unfortunately, by the time you get all of the tools gathered, the thing will start again. It's a real pain. Start with fuel. Get it to the point where it won't run, then use some starting fluid to see if you can get it to run for a second. If it will, but it dies when you stop spraying starter fluid, you probably have a fuel problem. Check the fuel filter. It could be plugged. If the filter is ok, it might be the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay. No, it's probably not the relay if it starts again when it's cold. So if you have fuel but it doesn't start anyway, start checking the ignition system. See if you have a spark. Pull one spark plug wire, plug in a spare sparkplug, crank the engine and have a helper watch the sparkplug to see if he/she can see a spark. If not, start checking electronic components, like the spark coil, pickup coil, igniton module and even the ignition switch. Many electrical components don't like heat after they get old. If one of the components have failed that might be the way that it has decided to let you know how important it is. (Sorry, that was an attempt at humor and I'm sure you aren't laughing if you can't get your car started.) ANYWAY... find out what IS working and what ISN'T working so that you can narrow it down to what's wrong. Good luck. If you have any questions just clarify what you've done and what you think might be going on. You can e-mail me at a_d_kirkwood@excite.com Good luck.

AS A GENERAL RULE YOU GET THE ROTORS CUT OR RESURFACED BY A REPUTABLE SHOP. THERE IS NOT REPAIR THEY ARE EITHER THICK ENOUGH

TO CUT OR THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED

Its job is to block the flow of coolant to the radiator until the engine has warmed up. When the engine is cold, no coolant flows through the engine. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature (generally about 200 degrees F, 95 degrees C), the thermostat opens. By letting the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear, deposits and emissions.

It is on because there is a problem with the air bags, Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Take it to a professional for repair, as this repair is not a DIY one.

Two possibilities come to mind, strictly theoretical since I don't work as a mechanic, I am an engineer: 1. Running too rich. This lowers the combustion temperature which keeps NOX low but the unburned hydrocarbons and incomplete combustion result in high HC and CO emission. Check O2 sensor, airflow/airmass sensor, computer codes, injectors, etc. 2. An alternative theory is that the catalyst is no longer effective, or perhaps if it has air injection, the air pump is no longer doing its job - the catalyst cannot burn off the pollutants because there is no oxygen available in the exhaust stream or the material is no longer usable.

Looks like the max rim and tire size would be 18's rims and 215/40ZR18

The simple answer may be that the low beam side is burnt out. Replace the bulb.

However, if both headlights have stopped working when switching to low beams, there may be a problem with the relay or the switch itself. If the cost of a relay is low for your car, it may be less expensive to simply replace that component than to have it diagnosed in a repair shop. Replacement of the switch requires some disassembly of the steering column or dash in most vehicles. Check a specific service manual.

Driver's side, under edge of dash on the far left. It is uncovered and easy to find.

For Peugeot 206 1.6 petrol, cambelt change should be done every 90000km or 6 years, whichever comes first.

If you have a misfire on all 4 cylinders you have your choice of replacing them all and hoping that is the problem OR finding a local s2k owner willing to swap coil packs for a day to see if the misfire clears up. If you can't find someone to trade coil packs with, then you have an expensive gamble...either the coil packs or the injectors are bad and there really isn't a good way to tell unless you replace one or the other. Ignition Coil packs run about $90 each. Some part of the engine, it probably overheated and you just need to replace the cylinder heads or if lucky the little rubber seals that most likely melted.

So the Accord has an easy clip on that fits into the Headlamp assembly of the Headlight.

1. Unhook the headlamp connection from the headlight (this is a white wire with a clip that can be depressed and push down for detaching the clip with the headlamp.

2. Twist the headlamp so that you can pull it out

3. Insert the new headlamp without touching the bulb

4. Check to see from outside if the headlamp is properly fit

5. Twist the lamp to ensure that the lamp fits into the slots that are available on the headlamp. (Note: in fixed position the tail of the lamp will always point down)

6. Reinsert the white clip into the tail of the lamp

7. You should be able to pull and check for proper fit.

On the one litre models it should be checked at 40,000 miles and changed at 60,000 miles or four years. Which ever comes sooner.

NO!

NO!

Your E is trying to tell you it needs service. You need to take it somewhere and have the codes read to find out what is wrong - could be many things. It also sounds as if your E might be running in "gimp" mode - which it will do until the problem is repaired. Gimp mode is a restricted engine fail-safe mode so you don't ruin your E by continuing to drive it "hard" after getting the "Flashing D" error code.

If I'm not mistaken, it's just like checking fuel injectors on any other vehicle. You have to know what the resistance is (Honda should be able to give you the specs) remove the connector to the injector, take a multi-meter and set it for "ohms" and put the two probes on the contacts of the injector and you should get a resistance reading, if the reading is not within the manufacturers specs then it's a bad or weak injector.

Hope this helps, its the best i can do.

The bulb is replaced from the back side of the gauge cluster. Don't know of any place on the internet to refer you for detailed information but the gauge assembly is very easy to get out. Just remove the two screws from the black trim panel around the gauge. Pull the trim panel out--two clips on the bottom corners and the two screws on the top. Remove the 4 screws that hold the gauge assembly in the dash and carefully pull out the assembly. You will need to unplug the 3 plugs from the top of the assembly. Just replace the odometer light bulb located on the bottom directly behind the odometer area.

Source: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Honda-Repair-814/Odometer-light-2000-Accord.htm

There is a problem with the SRS (Supplemental Restraint System)( Air Bags). It is dangerous to work on this system so have it repaired by a professional.