Kia Sephia

your gonna love this i just had this problem at my shop it is inside the tranny connected to the mail harness. this is not a job for the novice you have to pull out the valve body ect to get it out. best luck is to bring it to a tranny shop. i had this problem with a used car i have and it only has 60k on it.

Trouble code P0650 means: Malfunction Indicator Light Control Circuit

Trouble code P1794 means: Battery or circuit failure

If you look closely at the dome light cover you will notice two small notches in one side of the cover. Simply take a knife and put into the notches with a gentle prying motion. The cover should come right off and you should have access to the light.

It means that the TCM has sent a signal to the ECM indicating that there is a transmission related issue. I think that you should have at least one other code present with that P1624 code.

yes I forgot the code but it says that I need to replace the Thermostat

If everything works correctly, you should be able to push the brake with your foot, then push the button on the shifter and move to the according gear. If the vehicle will still not shift out of park, a brake light switch or shift lock solenoid is most likely the problem.

Where is the brake light switch and shift lock solenoid located? it is just underneath the console to the right, there is also a little cap next to the shifter stick a screw driver in there and push the shift-lock solenoid forward, or choice number 2 is to take the console out and unplug the shift-lock

What engine? Follow the spark plug wires to the engine there is only one engine from 98 and on , its a 1.8 twin cam T8 cuz..... plugs are in the center of the vakve cover

get yourself a haynes manual it will show you

Wrong, Kia doesn't have a Haynes manual for their cars genius. You have to go to KiaTechInfo.com, they have an online manual there.

IT DOESN'T HAVE A DISTRIBUTOR. THE IGNITION COIL AND PLUGS ARE UNDER A COVER ON THE TOP OF THE ENGINE.

My guess would be a loose or disconected wire

Yes, Remove the back seat, and it has an access cover you can remove to expose the top of the fuel tank to remove the fuel pump

Make sure Master cylinder if full,
Start @ right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw, open bleeder, have someone inside the car step down lightly & slowly until pedal sinks to almost 3/4 way down to floor. hold pedal down, THEN CLOSE BLEEDER SCREW.
Do that at least 3-4 times, check fluid in master cylinder, then proceed to left rear and repeat procedure. You are done when no air comes out of bleeder. you shuld also have a hard pedal when done, that is of course that there is sufficient amount of brake shoe material, and the wheel cylinders are not leaking, and also that the rear shoes are properly adjust. Those are general rule of thumb procedures. You always start with the bleeder furthest from the master cylinder, then end up with the last one closest to master. hope that helped you, Please let me know, Ben

Locate the TNS relay in the fuse box in the engine compartment. You're probably not going to tell by looking at it, so I recommend switching this relay out with another one of the same size, like the horn. Also check the fuse for TNS, I think it's a 30 amp, one of the box-style fuses. You can also check the mini-fuses for your tail lights, there are two. The dashboard lights and tail lights both run from there. (I just fixed this problem on my 1999 Kia Sephia last night. In my case, it was the 30 amp fuse.) Locate your fuse panel and check your fuses

1. http://kia.com/index.php

2. (lower left side) hover "Kia Owners" >> click "Service Information"

3. Create Login (worth it!!!!!!!)

4. Technical Information

This is a HUGE online repair manual. I was very impressed, overlooking some translation errors.

IF your nae was NOT on the paperwork, you may have a hard time finding out. If it IS, then call the lender and ask about YOUR car. Or call the PD where it was alledgedly stolen.

move the stearing wheel slightly back and forth, then stay at your chosen position that you tunred your stearng wheel then turn key

the vehicle is in park...isn't it?

Open the trunk and take out the two Phillips screws. The light assembly slides inward and will then come off. Pop the old light out and replace it.

On top of the motor (a 4 cyl.) is an aluminum housing with a black plastic insert. Remove the Phillips retaining screws (either 4 or 6) and lift off the plastic cover. Inside is 4 holes, the spark plugs are down in these holes. The two on the left are served by a coil and the two on the right are served by another coil. Each coil has two spark plug wires going to... you guessed it.

i have a 98 kia sephia, and i actually had to take the (left) motor mount off to raise the engine to allow removal clearance. use a regular floor jack but choose a good spot and a scrap piece of wood to lift motor. using caution and a little patience, it can be done. p.s. the oem kia alternator , is surprisingly cheap.....and the quality is that of what kia fans can expect....?! good luck

I recommend removing the intake manifold to allow clearance, no matter what the design is less than helpful as it should not be necessary to do that ...30 minute job turns into 2 hour job

Hey. You got to start off by taking off you alternator belt. Once that is dont you got to then take your the intake off. Once your intake is off you then take the two bolts, one concter and you positive off the alternator then it will then slide out. Remember when taking off alternator clean conector before putting in new one. Be patient... Good Luck.

Damn this 3rd answer. Someone needs to take a spelling class

My Chilton's manual makes this sound really easy, but its like birthing a baby using forceps, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold or jack up the engine. Here is what I did.

1. Unbolt the main electrical cable from the alternator.

2. Unplug the control wires. The plug has a locking clip that must be pushed toward the wiring.

3. Loosen the pivot bolt on the bottom of the alternator, which has to be reached from underneath the car.

4. Then from above loosen the tensioning bolt and the tensioning mounting bolt. Remove the belt and remove the bolts. Remove the tensioning bracket and tensioning bracket bolt. (Chilton's says to just swing it out of the way, but it wouldn't stay out of the way, and you need all the room you can make)

5. Unclip the fuel line from its mounting clips and gently push the fuel line out of the way.

6. Disconnect all the power steering lines and get them out of the way. This makes a mess unless you drain the power steering fluid first or plug the open tubes with caps or plugs. Remove the power steering line mounting bracket. Also take off the mounting bolt for the A/C lines.

7. Take a piece of 14 gage wire or a coat hangar and hook it on to the alternator like a handle, so you can pull on the alternator without having your hands in the way.

8. Gently pull the alternator out with one hand pulling on the wire handle and the other hand pushing all the other tubes out of the way. I found that the pinch point was between the end of the fuel rail and the air conditioning lines. The skinniest part of the alternator is perpendicular to the rotor and between the mounting points.

9. Disconnect nearest cable from the cruise control box. Mine just twisted off with a 1/4 turn.

10. Installation is the reverse of removal.

If you just remove the power steering brackets you can get it far enough out of the way to remove the alternator

0.28-0.32 in or .70-.80mm