Mitsubishi Eclipse

See dealer

because it does

the manifold will boltup but you need to get a new jpipe and oil/water lines, you can find all that in a kit on ebat fyi

This seems to be a mind boggler for many people..... It was for me also 3 months after I drove it off the showroom floor!!!

(1) Remove the plug the first thing going to the bulb. PLEASE NOTE that it may be difficult to remove, but it has to be removed before you can continue. Another note here, Upon my first replacement (and now I am seeing other posts on other sites about this now that several years have gone by for the cars) the connector may have melted. I was a field rep and on the road 200-400 miles daily and ran the lights all the time and found it to be that the low beam connection was the one that melted on the passenger side, but for some reason the passenger side was fine (Then)! Anyway this may make removing the connector difficult, and you may need to head for the parts store to get a new set of connectors, about $9.00 for a pr I believe it was at Advance. So just keep wiggling and pulling till you get it off. Upon getting it off DO inspect the connector, DO go get a new one if you see any melting on it because it will fail soon!!! If it is melted or you have problems with step #3 & 6, or think you might have problems feeling around in the dark for steps #3 & #6 then go to steps 1(A), 1(B), 1(C), and 1(D). Otherwise go to step #2.

(A) If your connector is melted or shows ANY signs of melting or browning from excessive heat replace it now because it is going to fail, I repeat it is going to fail, so just go back to the store now and get a pack of new ones for the bulb. (I don't know why they put such a crappy connector and small wire for the headlights!!) Of course they didnt give you enough wire to work with here, so a litle hint here, take out the headlight assy itself. There are 3 bolts right on the top to remove and that's it. Remove the 3 bolts (besure not to loose the washer on the top elevated bolt as it is under the clip under the bolt) You will have to use a "Little" lifting and wiggling force as there is a plastic catch alignment clip underneath the headlamp assy that is not visible. Once the headlamp Assy is removed you have easy access to the "SHORT DERN WIRES" to be able to replace the connector.

(B) On the back of the headlamp assy remove the black rubber boot. Upon removing it you will see the light itself and the retaining clip. Push in and down on the looped end of the clip and swing it away from the bulp. Now you can slide the bulb straight out. Insert the new bulp paying attention to its orientation. The center of the 3 pin electrical connection the center one is oriented straight up. You will feel it drop into place when correctly inserted and oriented. Now swing the clip back across the back of the bulb and push in and the up to latch the clip. Dont use too much pressure as it means you are not oriented correctly. Now replace the rubber weather boot on the back of the headlamp assy.

(C) After you have repaired/replaced your connector and lamp, you can reinstall the headlamp assy. Align the pin underneath the assy with the clip/hole and gently ensure you are aligned with the hole/clip and then push into place. Insert the Bolts...oh yea in case you forgot the washer goes underneath the headlamp assy clip for the top clip, the bolt alredy has a washer on it. Also Dont overtighten or you will break the clips on top. So try and be careful, Dealer replacement cost for this piece of plastic is over $400 ( Someone backed into me and I found out just recently) so junkyard is probabily $50-$150!

(D) Go to Step #8

(2) Now if you look and then feel there is a rubber boot about 3" in dia on the back of the Headlight assy. Just pull it off, it has tab(s) on it so you can grab ahold of it if needed.

(3) Now the fun part.... I know it is hard to see but look at the back of the headlight assy and you will see the 3 prongs for the connector, and a brass colored wire clip across the lower portion of the bulb. On one side of this clip is a loop on the end of the clip that stick our and away from the bulb about 1/4-3/8 of an inch from the bulp and to the side of it. Once you have located to loop reach in and push in and down at the same time on the clip so the clip no longer latches on its catch. Once this is done swing the clip to the opposite side out of the way. If you cant get it loose go to steps 1(A), 1(B), 1(C), and 1(D).

(4) The bulb will now come straight out.

(5) Insert the new bulb with the center of the 3 connection pins in the straight up position, you will feel the bulb seat or drop into place when it is oriented correctly. If the bulb is not oriented correctly as stated you will have problems getting the locking clip to lock and you can break the clip and then you are in for fun trying to find a replacement.

(6) This is similar to #3, you will be doing this be feel. Once the new bulb is inserted and oriented correctly, swing the retaining clip back across the back of the bulb. Now push in and apply upward motion to latch the retaining clip. If you are trying to apply substantially more pressure trying to latch it vice unlatching it go back to #5 and reorient it correctly. (If you cant get it to latch go to steps 1(A), 1(B), 1(C), and 1(D))

(7) Slide the weather boot back onto the back of the headlight assy.

(8) Plug the connector back on to the bulb

(9) ***YOU"RE DONE*** I hope this helped some of you!

P.S. The "Sylvania SilverStar's" Always lasted the longest 9-12 months vice 5-7 months with the Bluestar's, and 3-4 months with standard issue bulps. Im sure the new HID's may last longer, but at a WAY HIGHER price! But on a cost comparsion for the $ the "Silverstars" were the best bang for the $ when ran on a continious use basis. Just remember though, 9-12 months of my driving was probabily more like 4-ish years of your driving in their useage

if you are trying to find this to make more power by upping your fuel mixture by tricking that sensor i am telling you its a bad idea. you really are not going to make any real power, contrary to popular belief, especially if you are an N.A. motor. if you are trying to find it for a real reason it is on the back side of the intake plenum closer to the passenger side of the motor. it has a grey plug and what will look like a threaded nut and nipple that attatches it to the plenum. honestly if you are trying to trick the ecu with that sensor you are going to regret it later on. in all actuality if its a turbo car you should even be worried about something that insignificant spend the dough get a boost controller and youre good. if its an N.A. car nothing you can ever do short of a motor swap or a heap of nitrous will ever make that car fast.

6 1/2 inches in the front and rear.

This is a link you can go to and obtain instructions with illustrations: http://documents.victorytechnologies.com//documents/product/882.pdf

This website will answer all your convertibile top questions; http://www.1aauto.com/help_center/faq/convertible_top.html Scroll down the page a way to find StayFast FriPilot

The fuel pump and the fuel filter need to be replaced. They are probably clogged or are malfunctioning.

Probably right!

I would like to share my experiences. I had the similar kind of situation, I have an older Acura Integra which just had a complete grind valve job and complete tune-up and installed all pollution new valves/components as well as new gas/oil/air filters. As I was testing it out, cruising a low speeds in 5th gear, the engine bucked/missed fired briefly--once or twice. Then at a stop light the engine just died and would not started. After 2 minutes or so, tried again and it started and ran fine all the way home. When I got home, I tried to rough test of the electrical system by idling the car in the dark/nite with the hood open, watching for any electrical arcing at all wiring areas, especially the plug wires...no arcing observed and,of course no missing, engine has run smoothing since that brief burp...

I suspect, it may have been a bit of bad gas passing through the system because my car has just been brought out of storage of four years.

I have also, "acid test" the electrical system by spraying water on the engine(when it is cold) during the night time and then start the engine and watch for electrical arcing from wires, etc.

Based on other experience, a car that jerks intermittently (assume from engine miss firing) may be due to old spark plugs or electrical current escaping from old plug wires. Could be an old/defective coil, too? I had a coil problem that would misfired intermittently at speeds only over 45 mph. Got a new coil, problem solved.

Most likely you will have to replace it.

The minimum brake rotor thickness for a 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse is 1.17 inches. When it falls below this thickness, braking performance will suffer and must be replaced.

A 2012 Mitsubishi Eclipse will get between 17 and 28 miles to the gallon. The average is about 20 miles per gallon and the average for country is about 28 miles per gallon.

get the black wire and then the red wire and then pull the chip out of it and take the key and unlocked the dricer door

Theres a screw on the Throttle body at the end of the intake manifold. turn it with a screw driver left or right.

Yours is the top picture. Just drain the coolant first. Be sure to clean the old gasket off real good.

Get a floor jack and jack up the engine just a little bit, enough to take the weight of the engine off of the motor mounts. Taking the motor mount assemblies out of the vehicle is the easy part; getting the actual rubber piece to get out of the ring is the hard part. There is a thin metal ring between the rubber and the mount assembly. An easy way to do this is with a hammer and a chisel. Stick the chisel on the metal ring so that it is at angle going straight through the ring, like you are about to slice a pizza. Proceed to hammer the crap out of it, and try not to damage the inner walls of the assembly. Once you can get behind that metal ring, pry it in, so that it starts to for a "U" shape. Stick a metal bar in there, and have a friend hold it steady for you. Sit in a chair, and put both feet on the bar, then put so weight on it. It should bend like a stick of butter.

You blew out the right side speaker

Behind the HVAC case on the passenger side against the firewall. It is hidden behind an outlet vent.

does a 2004 mitsubishi eclipse had a fuel shut off switch

You can use the front bumper for a 1996 Chrysler Sebring on a 1996 Dodge Avenger.

if you reach under the bottom seat cushion in the center of both seats theres a ring just pull both of them and it will pop out

Its about 24 inches behind the front bumper, right in front of the oil pan. You'll lose about half a cup of oil when you twist it off. To install the new one, rub new oil on the gasket and spin the filter on until the gasket seats, then give it another 3/4 to 1 full turn.

Hold down the Display button, then use the rockered number buttons to modify the time. I am doing this from memory - but I believe the 1 key backs up the hour, 2 increases the hour, and 3 and 4 control the minutes. You have to go past 12 to modify AM/PM IIRC.

Under the passenger seat