Oldsmobile Intrigue

Did you use factory plugs (NGK)? The aftermarket brands (splitfire, various other multi-tip platinums) do not work as well as the OEM AC/Delco plugs, which are actually made by NGK. It sounds good, but for some reason do not perform well. Check the coil packs and shunts to make sure they are in good condition and properly fitted and tight. Make sure you torque the plugs down using a torque wrench to 20ft-lbs. When I changed my plugs at 90K miles, I missed something, and the car sputtered until I took the plugs back out and rechecked and reset everything. After that, it ran like a champ. Other stupid stuff like clogged fuel filter, plugged up PCV valve, leaky vacuum hoses, etc, can cause the engine to run rough suddenly. Make sure you didn't mess up something like this in the process of re-plugging.

I removed the following: Try resetting the engine controller by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and reconnecting. After that, the car may run a bit rough until all the sensor settings readjust to the new exhaust composition. Because that doesn't work on GM cars after 1996. Make sure all of the connections are tight.

first drive your car around the block to warm the oil then drive up on car ramps slide underneath the car you will see the drain pan with a head of a bolt sticking out loosen that up and take it out the oil will drain then remove your oil filter fill the new oil filter with oil put a dab around the ring of the oil filter then screw it back on put 4 quarts of oil in the car start it drive it down the ramps shut it off let it sit for 10 minutes check the oil level top it off if neccessary and your done

Well, you figure about 200 for the new starter and allow up 200 for labor. It depends on the stuff that has to be moved to get to it. Also depends on the area of the country you live in for labor rates. They vary. It is a little less if you get a remanufactured starter, but that is your call. Good luck.

Yes it does have a balance shaft also known as a silent shaft.

Check under the vehicle either in front of fuel tank or along fram rail--follow fuel lines

Well, there are many things that can effect air conditioning in your vehicle. But to answer i need a few answers. One, when you press your a/c button and turn the fan and cold on high does if function, does it produce air at all, or does it blow warm air? Two if it doesn't work from there turn it all on and on high, check to see if the compressor is running, while under the hood see if you see any dye from any of the lines, check the drying tank to see if it has a small viewing window if so do you see bubbles or anything moving through it? Three, if you cannot tell which of these problems it may be take it to your dealer or the garage of your choosing. A list of conditions is almost too long to list here the most common in my experience are, low refrigerant, too much pressure, leaking condenser, leaking compressor, compressor switch, compressor clutch/malfunction, leaking lines, and/or bad switches.

I assume you mean the Flasher Relay. It is located in the front seating area, passenger side, under dash, mounted above kick panel.

the TPS is located directly under the Idle Air control valve (IAC valve) located on the throttle body

Its on the pass. side of eng. up against the fire wall 8" down . use flash light look youll see the filler cap...

I took this apart and found no sensor on the overlow what so ever. Could it be located somwhere else? was this a change over year? At the bottom of the overflow can (where you fill it up).

There is a fuse, but the motor can go out as well. Check the fuse before you replace the pump. There is a fuse. Check it before replacing the pump. Motors can just quit, but could also be plugged with dirt or debris, or the power wire to the pump could be loose. Both wiper blade hoses could also be plugged up if the windshield has been through a lot of dirt. Check the pump motor by having a buddy run it while you listen under the hood with the engine off.

It is made as an assembly.

the sensor is mounted on the back (engine side) on the passenger side of the radiator, below the inlet hose. you will need to remove the battery in order to access it.

The 1999 Oldsmobile wiper switch can be located below the dashboard. The wiper relay switch simply plugs in and out.

On the passenger side under the dashboard, first remove the fire panel and unclip the light. The resistor is towards the far back in the center. There are some screws that are kinda hard to get to, but it is possible. Unclip the wires on the old resistor and remove the screws and remove the resistor. Then place the new resistor where the old one was removed from and replace the screws, attach the wires. Now re-attach the light to the fire panel and replace the panel.

Hey here are a few similar things, cause my firebird is doing the same thing to me... I found this Q: 96 s10 that was running fine but recently had trouble with ignition When the key was turned to on position no lights turn on but if you turn it farther than the starter turns but the car doesn't start? First answer by 72.242.81.57. Last edit by Baldfatguy. Contributor trust: 47 [recommend contributor]. Question popularity: 1 [recommend question] Answer Check to see if it has a rod coming out of the bottom area of steering column--controlled by ignition switch that may have become mal-adjusted or bent Answer I'd start with the ignition switch.... Q: 1994 Camaro ignition Security light My 1994 Camaro is in San Jose with this problem and they are hoping to figure this out.....they say that the most common problem with this is that there is a wiring problem that has either shorted out/disconnected or the ignition system is just not reading the "chip" in the key itself and it may be in need of repair......I'll find out more today as they, at this moment are "looking at it now"........We'll see! I'll hopefully find out the true answer today and I'll post it here..........also let you you know what it cost me for this answer!!!!!!!! ==Headline== A: The problem with the camaro was that the connector to the ignition switch literally came apart-broke off-whatever....anyway the fix was to solder the wire back to the switch and its now as good as new! with my '96 Grand Prix, I had this happen 3 or 4 times, after a new alternator and battery... i read on here to spray brake cleaner into the ignition itself ie: where the key goes. Make sure it's a cleaner that won't leave a residue. Spray until it runs clear. Make sure to protect the carpet... like use a big rag under the steering column. I took about 5 minutes to run clear with mine. It hasn't not started since. that was in June/July of '08 Now Nov and no problems.

If we talking about passenger cars, I suppose the Mercedes-Benz would have the biggest gas tank (around 70 liters) Vlad Samarin You can plug in the cars you're considering into a site like driverside.com to see how large their fuel tanks are. If you're considering new cars, it might be easier to just check out the makers website.

Behind the hazard switch in the dash

If it is a 3.5 unhook battery remove coil packs on top of valve covers and unplug, pull boots from plugs remove plugs with spark plug socket. be sure engine is cool set gap is printed on emision tag. make sure coil probes line up in boots when reinstalling coil packs

cause its broke

6x9

This is difficult to cover in such a forum. There's lots of options and possible things that could be wrong. I'd look at getting a shifter out of a junkyard to do a complete swap out. This is pretty major surgery and should not be attempted unless you are mechanically inclined. The button on the shifter handle is hard to disassemble (I have done shifters on other cars, not Intrigues), and often isn't the real culprit in the shifting problem anyway. A few "easy" things to try: Is the button stuck "in"? Try WD-40 and some tapping around the handle with a rubber mallet to unstick. Is the button not pushing in? Try WD-40 and tapping or pushing it in. Try jiggling the handle while pushing the button. Often the mechanical shift template inside the shifter becomes burred or nicked and can hang up. Things to check (based upon a 1998 Intrigue):

1 - Brake lights also not working? If not, then the problem is likely the brake light switch is bad. The brake light switch also dis-engages the shift-lock solenoid which prevents anyone from shifting the car without the brake being applied.

2 - Remove the shifter knob and test its functioning. You do this by removing the pin at the base of the knob where it faces the dash. Use a small screwdriver, and pry from the gap in the center of the pin (pin looks like a big staple).
With the pin out, twist the shifter knob slightly back and frth while pulling it straight up and off.
With the knob off, test the pushing of the button. If it is working easily, then this is not the issue. If it is STILL working hard, this is your issue, and you should lubricate the mechanism with WD-40 from the outside gaps of the button itself, then use 3-in-1 oil or similar lubricant on the internals where you see them from inside the bottom of the knob. On the shifter arm itself, lubricate the activation rod that goes down the rod, and the linkage within the console.

3 - Remove the console top, shift indicator module, and test the linkage/shift-lock solenoid. THIS ASSUMES THE KNOB IS ALREADY REMOVED (see above)
STEP 1: Remove the console top
Open the console arm-rest and remove the two bolts near the latch.
Lift the console from the now un-bolted end and carefully pry up from opposite end (there are 4-6 tensioning-pins holding the remainder of console top.
BE CAREFUL - you have a plug in the console top for the traction control.
Lift up the console top and adjust it out of the way.
STEP 2: Remove the shifter position indicator module
Remove the shift indicator by removing the four bolts and lifting the indicator. Twist the console light bulb out of the indicator module.
STEP 3: Remove the shift-lock mechanism (black device w/wires attached)
Do NOT remove the wires from the shift-lock solenoid (black electronic device to left of shift mechanism). Instead, just carefully pry both of the white plastic ends off of where it connects the shift linkage. You can now pick it up and test it. With the key on, and your foot OFF the brake, and the moveable shaft all the way INTO the solenoid, you should NOT be able to slide the shaft out (locked). Now, PRESSSING THE BRAKE PEDAL with the key ON, the solenoid should RELEASE the shaft and allow it to slide OUT of the solenoid. IF NOT, then your solenoid is damaged and should be replaced.
STEP 4: Testing the shift linkage
With the solenoid out from step above, AND THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ON, replace the shift knob and pin, and test shifting the car. You can visibly examine the operation for any hang-ups, burrs, dents, etc and assess damage. If it is working fine, then your problem is in the cables or the transmission itself. Otherwise, you can file, straighten, lubricate or replace as needed in the shifting linkage and mechanism. Good Luck!

P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire

Symptoms.
Engine may stumble or miss
Engine may be hard to start
you may notice no issues

Cause
Failing spark plugs or spark plug wires
Bad coil or coil pack
Failing oxygen sensor(s)
Bad fuel injector or more than one
Stuck exhaust valve
Bad catalytic converter
EGR valve or valve passage clogging
Bad camshaft position sensor
Bad PCM or ECM

The Fix
Best first action is a tune up, new plugs, wires, inspect all hoses and wire connections then reset the code. If it returns you will need to narrow it down to a system, coils and coil packs should be tested, catalytic converters for function ( do you smell rotten eggs?). A misfire that jumps cylinders could indicate a lean condition, do you have any other codes along with the 300? this will help clue you in to the source, check valve function to make sure they are opening and closing fully.
This is probably pone of the most difficult codes to troubleshoot, so start with the basics and work your way into the more expensive options, in many cases a good old tune up solves the problem, back it up with a fuel system cleaning and see where you stand.

It's attached to the fuel pump sending unit, inside the fuel tank.