Pontiac Grand Am

Tha same as any other car. Google, "How to bleed brakes" What I do is to elevate the cars front end so as to make the radiator neck the highest point on the vehicle, then start the car with the rad cap off and allow to idle and continue adding coolant over the next 20-30 minutes. This allows the system to cycle the thermostat and bleeds the air thru the open radiator which is elevated.

These cars don't use a crank sensor - the ignition module watches the electrical properties of the #4 cylinder spark plug and uses that to calculate where the engine is within the mechanical rotation.

If you are having troubles, verify/replace that spark plug and the wiring. In a past experience with this car, it turned out to be the ignition module, located under the coil packs.

6 cylinder? Look at the lower rear end of engine 4 Cylinder? Look at the lower front end of engine behind radiator 6 cylinder? Look at the lower rear end of engine 4 Cylinder? Look at the lower front end of engine behind radiator

The air conditioning has a small radiator called the condensor that is placed in front of the engine radiator, this make the air that cools the engine slightly hotter, which in some cars, depending on how the air flows under the hood could increase the engine temp. Also, the air conditioners in cars can use up to 15 horsepower to operate, this means that while your car is sitting still without any airflow from driving around, the engine is still working. Unfortunatly there are a few things that could be broken that would also cause the same problem, but don't go buying parts unless you know for certain that it is broken, some cars just run hotter than others.

WHENEVER the A/C is on the fans SHOULD BE RUNNING.... If not then you will overheat fairly quickly.

Start the car - turn on the A/C then lift the hood and check that the fan is running.

If not then check the fuse or the relay or the fan could be bad.

I think it's an addiction.

Maybe a one piece module located behind the hazard switch if located in dash

All the lights a flashing on the instrument panel on my Chrysler town and country minivan. Why?

The first difference of course is goin to be the two extra cylinders. Depending on the make and model of the two cars in question the difference is usually in the amount of horse power the car has and also in fuel consumption. the six cylinder will probably have more horse power but will also use more fuel. The four cylinder will have less power but will also use less fuel. hope this helps.

On the coolant overflow bottle that in on the passenger side of the engine.

The nut is not holding the rotor on. It is holding the CV shaft into the bearing hub assembly. The rotor is only held on by the caliper and lug nuts when you have the wheel on. Remove the wheel and the caliper. The caliper bolts are probably 3/8" hex bolts. If the brakes have never been changed, there may be a small metal retainer around one of the lug studs, but being a 96 model they have probably been changed and the retainer is no longer there. It isn't necessary to put another retainer on, that is only to hold the rotor in place as it goes down the assembly line in the factory.

looking for answer

Low oil pressure is an indication of worn bearings, broken oil pressure relief valve or a worn or damaged oil pump. Since the oil pressure relief valve usually doesn't go bad and oil pumps usually hold together quite well, it's probably a problem with worn main/rod bearings. If the vehicle has run without an oil change as scheduled on a couple occasions, the bearings probably have too much clearance. If that's the case you might be able to change to a higher viscosity oil and squeeze a few more miles from the engine, but you'll be needing an engine rebuild soon.

call the dealer and have someone wish you some luck

if you break the plastic rivets, use a soda tab for a washer to keep them in place SOME HAVE A PLASTIC RING IN THE CENTER OF BACK OF THE LIGHT THAT UNSCREWS ABOUT A 1/4 TURN & PULL OUT THE CENTER & SHOULD B A SMALL LIGHT BULB(HALOGEN) & DON'T TOUCH THE NEW BULB GLASS OR IT WILL BURN OUT FAST-IF U DO TOUCH IT-CLEAN IT WITH RUBBING ALCHOL. The best and easiest way is to visit autobodytips.net and download a how to video !!!!!!! Go to User Manual at http://www.mygmlink.com/pdf/go2content/manual/US/en/pontiac/2000grandam.pdf Go to section 6 (service and appereance care) and after clic on Bulb Replacement. After clic on Halogen Bulb and read page no. 251 to 254. You'l find picture and explanation.... Open the hood. There are two speed clips directly on the top of the headlight assemblies. Pulls DIRECTLY up on these clips or they will tend to bend. and the assembly should pull out from the front of the car. wala I have a 2001 Grang Am SE and there are no such clips. How can I remove the assembly to replace the bulbs if there are no clips to "pull up" on. Please help. I have a 2002 Grand am and I have the same problem, the owners manual is not correct. ok there are clips but they are under a p--lastic cover that goes althe way across front of hood, Remove those little platic clips. Then you will see these L shaped clips next to these screws that look like little stars that align headlights. what you need to do is use pliers and push back the pulls up on these clips. then the headlight shouls pe able to be pulled out. The plastic clips are rivets that need to be destroyed in order to remove the plastic cover. You cannot buy replacements - GM apparently does not make them any more. The local (Ann Arbor, Michigan) GM store (Jim Bradley) had to put in a different set of rivets that did not quite fit when I had them replace the headlamp after giving up with the manual. The two "quick release" clamps underneath are bolted on securely. These bolts need to be loosened before you can raise them - otherwise, you will (as noted above) just bend the metal when you try to raise them. I've replaced headlamps in a Chrysler and a Ford, but am very frustrated with GM. 1-14-06 My back is sore and GM ears are burning, but I got the job done. This 2001 Grand Am has a black plastic cover over those head light assembly clips. I used pliers to wiggle and remove the plasic rivets that keep the plastic cover in place. Some were maimed a bit, but still worked when I replaced them. The "clips" are near the star shaped screw heads that adjust the headlight beam. They are flat on the top and can be removed by using pliers opened wide; be sure to bend them away as you pull up since there is a metal lip that holds them in place. One clip comes completely out; the other pops up and stays in place. Now the head light assembly slides easily out. Once the bulbs are replaced, the assembly slides back into place. You may have to tinker a bit to get the white plastic blocks (through which those star shaped screws pass) to align with the black plastic slots. Be sure to reward yourself with a cold one or a fine cigar. You have earned it! Holy Cow! Forget the beer - I'm going straight to cocktails!! Thank you to you fine folks for the "speed clip tip" ( speed clip my @$$ )!! As one of those women who like to at least attempt her own basic maintenance, that tip alone was invaluable. I won't tell you how long I studied those stupid things before seriously considering the more expensive route...but I will tell you that once I had the secret, I replaced both lights, had the plastic cover installed and my nails clean in under 30 minutes. As a little aside regarding the fasteners and the retainer rings...just go buy new ones! They're cheap - and you can get them at the dealership. Fasteners are .75 each and the retainer rings are about $12 each. I bought mine before I started,(just in case) and I'm glad I did. Arizona sun is hard on plastic. Couple of the clips broke and the retainer rings have little tabs inside that fall off as soon as they're touched. KEEP the 4 fasteners at the very front - they're bigger than the others and of course nobody at the dealership offered that tidbit. They screw in from the back. You may have to remove the light assy from the car. Open the hood. The headlamp retainer "speed clips" are under the black plastic shield. To remove the shield, remove the little plastic "rivets". These "rivets" have a center pin and an outer housing. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry up on the center pin. When it is about 1/4 inch up, pull the pin straight up and out with a pliers. Then, using a flat screwdriver, gently pry up on the outer housing of the rivet. It should come up easily. Put the pin back into the rivet housing about 1/4 of an inch and set it aside. There are two different sizes of these rivets, the larger, fatter ones go in the front center of the plastic shield. Once you have all of the plastic rivets removed, take out the plastic shield and set it aside. You can TRY taking out only half of the rivets, but the shield will keep flopping back into place--take all of the rivets out and remove the shield. Look at the headlamp assembly. It has two metal strips that hold it in place, located behind the star-shaped screws. These are the "speed clips". The one toward the middle of the car can be removed completely; the one toward the outside of the car pops up, but not out. To pop them up, gently pry the very top backward with a flat blade screwdriver and at the same time, pull up on the top rim with a pliers (or pry up on the rim with another flat blade screwdriver). You must pry them backward because they have a dimple that holds them in place. When the clips are unlocked, the headlamp assembly can be removed by rocking it and rotating the front of the headlamp upward. Do not adjust the star-shaped screws. Good luck with the black plastic ring that holds the headlamp bulb in place; I broke mine. Twist the black plastic ring counter clockwise one quarter turn or so. You can now remove the bulb from the headlamp assembly. Before you do, put on some eye protection goggles. Take the bulb out of the headlamp assembly. Unplug the bulb from the wiring. Discard of the old bulb carefully--halogen bulbs are under pressure and can shatter. Now take the new bulb out of its packaging without touching the glass. Plug it into the wiring. CAREFULLY seat the bulb into the headlamp assembly without touching the bulb's glass. Make sure that it is completely seated. Now carefully replace the black plastic retaining ring and rotate it one quarter turn clockwise to lock the bulb into the headlamp assembly (I broke mine so do this carefully). Re-install the headlamp assembly into the car; start with the headlamp facing up and rotate it down and level as you insert it. Then slide the "speed clips" back into place. They should "click" into place. Make sure that the headlamp is locked into place by the speed clips on both sides. Test the high beams and low beams. Replace the plastic shield using the dirt patterns to guide where it should go over and where it should go under. To replace the plastic rivets (remember the bigger ones are in the center of the car), make sure the pin is only inserted a little way, push the outer housing into the hole, when the outer housing is fully inserted into the hole, push down on the pin until it is seated. Close the hood. Now write a letter to GM about making this process take 30 minutes instead of the 4 minutes it takes on my other car.

Check out the following write-up performed on a '98. It should be similar if not the same. http://www.oqcgp.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=37943 Hope this helps. "G"

I also need an answer to this question, but my floorboard does not get wet. Is it clogged or is it a bad heater core? It is most likely a bad heater-core if it is antifreeze.

Canada

some hub bearing are one complete assembly if not remove rotor from car bearing should be in rotor or hub meaning drum for back brakes the bearing is inside the middle of the rotor there should be a seal that holds it in place look for the edge of that seal and tap under the edge of that seal until... IN REPLACING THE NEW SEAL YOU MUST clean all the grease from the hub to ensure there s no old grease left at least much as possible,then pack the hub with new grease besure not to get grits in to the grease. grits and grease don t mix, then dip the bearing into the grease to ensure that it s fully greased then replace the bearing in the hub and tap on the new hub evenlly or it will not go in right after that your on your way to reassembling the hub to the car.... ENJOY

These are a complete hub assembly. They require no packing grease. Remove wheel, brake calapier, calapier bracket, brake rotor, remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle, remove the half saft from the hub( 36mm ) nut. 3 or 4 bolts hold this hub in place. All steps may not be listed, but get'er done. If you are not mechanically inclined do not attempt this.

Under the dash in front of the drivers' left knee.

I'll I have to do on my 96 grand am is put the steering wheel all the way down (tilt steering) before putting it into park.

its all oabut hearing the click after the keys r all the way back slowly turn forward and try to pull them out ull here a click and they well slide right out

this used to happen to me, too... key would get stuck in the accessory position and my battery got drained twice. on the bottom of the steering column there is a little plastic square cover; pop it off and you will feel a round button; press this button and the key will come out even if it's not in the off position.

My 1996 Grand AM had the same problem. The keys would get stuck in the ignition. It turned out to be a worn out shifter. The shifter was not getting all the way into park.

I had the same problem on my 97. Like the poster above it was the shifter. There is a electric solenoid on the shifter. It's plunger is spring loaded so that when you go into park the solenoid deenergizes and allows the ignition switch to go all the way to the off posititon and release the key. The spring on the plunger gets weak or clogged with gunk and the plunger cannot drop to deenergize the circuit. The solenoid is riveted to the shifter so it cannot be changed. You will end up having to replace the shifter assembly.

If the window goes down when you depress the switch, but not up, it is almost certain that the motor needs replacing. The motor is overheating and the thermal switch inside causes it to stop. The window might go up only part way or an inch or less. Let it cool down and repeat until the window is completely up - might take an hour or more. Definitely not good if it is raining. The solution is to replace the motor.

somewhere on the engine

it varies from motor to motor the rods are any where from 100 - 150 in a kit. then you need to find someone to put them in. you may just need to re torque the rocker arms

There will be a visible triangular shaped plastic molding in fron of the mirror, pop that off, there will be screws or bolts to remove the mirror. Didn't the replacement mirror show diagram, or did you buy a used one from a bone yard? I hope this works for you.