Pontiac Transport

enables limp home without damaging the engine.

Remove the intake bellow, Drain all antifreeze in catch pan, Remove the Water hoses on the water pump....On each side of the pump there is 3 bolts 7/16 - 1/2....Remove those. make sure to catch the little water pump gear at the back of the water pump. It is tough to find one (very tough). (Put gear on new pump Make sure to line the gear up) install pump back on the way you took it off. I use the gasket sealer indianhead, It's the best stuff ever made....Put hoses back on and tighten them up...refill radiator...on the hose off the pump there is a screw (flathead)...Yu will need to loosen that up to purge the air out of the system...When you see a steady stream of antifreeze come out it is set....have fun takes about 1.5-2 hours total

there are two tie rods on these vans. the inner and outer tie rods. if it is the inner itt is the long shaft type thing that goes right into the steering axle. the outer is where the grease fittings are and it attatches to the knuckle annd the inner tie rod. things that are necessary to do this are new parts, and there is a special tool that you need. they are available and most hardware stores such as Canadian tire to rent. after that you will need an alignment because it will be slightly off balance. when you unscrew the outer tie-rod from the inner tie-rod, count how many rotations you make so that when you but the new ones together it will be as close as possible so that you might not need an alignment.

Just bought a 95 Transport SE about a week ago, so yesterday bought the Chiltons for it. Plus we were looking for that relay box and injector fuse (that particular fuse isn't in the fuse box in the car, it's a fuseable link). Go under the hood on the passengers side up front near the headlights. You will see a closed metal box (relay box) under that will be 4 plastic fusible link boxes. The book says that the relay box handles: horn, headlights, starter, electric fuel pump & other high draw circuits. Hope this helps.

Check in the under hood electrical center for the 15 amp mini-fuse #32 with a test light. It should be hot at all times. If that fuse doesn't show battery voltage you may have a blown fuseable link. If you have power at the #32 fuse check other fuses marked #4, 5, 7, 8, 18, 21 and 33. Also try swapping #14 relay with another like relay.

Could be as easy as tightening the hose clamp. However if the hose being cut by over-tightening the clamp caused the leak, you may be able to loosen the clamp, slide the clamp to a good section of hose, and retighten. Be sure that the fitting is not collapsing. If it is, replace it, remembering to use Teflon sealing tape on the fitting threads. If the hose is too badly damaged it may need replacement.

On the lower driver side of the radiator!

there is no timing belt on these vehicles! only one chain, and there(supposed) to LAST.

The radio unit will need the security code If you disconnect the battery from your vehicle. The radio will reset, thinking it was stolen out of the car, and will require the security code before it will work again.

could be voltage regulator or sometimes the alternators from the store are bad best thing to do is have them test it before you leave the store or even purchase it you should look for a problem outside the alternator. if you replaced it with a decent rebuilt or new and are still having problems check the battery, battery cables and your ground cables. Make sure your battery is secure and nothing can short across the terminals. This can burn out the regulators. Check your belt tension as well if it is loose the alternator pully might not spin properly.

If there is not an access hole in the rear trunk type area you will havfe to remove fuel tank to access

You have a bare wire that keeps shorting out & blowing the fuse, I had the same problem. The wire is the one that runs from the fuse to the fuel pump. The casing has melted away and now the wires are touching.

If you look under the hood you should see a diagram of the belt and order it goes in, if not get out a peice of paper and start drawing. There will be a tensioner with a square slot, it's for a 1/2 inch drive. Once you insert the 1/2 inch see what direction it goes to loosen the belt, be careful not to place your fingers between the pulleys and the belt, it hurts trust me! Good luck with your project.

Trains, its pretty much all they used since they didnt have cars

Disconnect Neg. Batt. cable. Drain coolant. Remove serpentine belt. Loosen water pump pulley. Use a prybar to hold the pulley in place while you do this. Remove small belt guard just above pump. Remove all bolts and nuts and remove the water pump from the engine. Clean all bolts threads and bolt holes. Remove all traces of gasket and sealent. Use lacquer thinner or acetone on engine mating surface. Make sure to line up the alignment marks at the top. Install bolts finger tight. Then tighten to 89in-lbs(NOT FT-LBS) 1/4 turn at a time as NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN. Sorry can't stress that enough. Re install pully, belt guard,etc. Refill and bleed cooling system. There are bleed screws. One above the water pump. One near the thermostat housing.

Knowing how to jump-start a car with a dead battery can keep an inconvenience from becoming a crisis. If you are unsure about how to use jumper cables, ask for help. Steps 1. Read your owner's manual, as it will describe any peculiarities involved in jump-starting your vehicle. 2. Pull a car with a charged battery next to the car with the dead battery, situating the two batteries as close together as you can without allowing the two cars to touch. 3. Turn off both engines, pull out the keys, put both cars in park (or in first gear if they have stick shifts), engage the emergency brakes and open the hoods. 4. Attach a red-handled/positive jumper cable clamp to the positive terminal (the one with the plus sign) of the charged battery. 5. Connect the other red-handled clamp to the positive terminal of the dead battery. 6. Attach the neighboring black/negative cable to the car with the dead battery. Clamp it somewhere where the current can ground out, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine. You can also attach it to any metal, unpainted part of the vehicle's frame. 7. Ground the other black/negative cable on the charging car, as described in the previous step. Be careful, as a small spark may be produced. 8. Attempt to start the car that has the dead battery. 9. Re-adjust the red/positive clamp on the dead car if there is no response; try reclamping it to the terminal or turning it for a better connection. Keep trying to start the dead car. 10. Once the dead car is running, remove the clamps one at a time in reverse order. 11. Allow the jump-started car to run for half an hour in order to charge the battery. It will charge whether driving or idling. Tips & Warnings * Always check your owners manual before jump-starting a car. Some new cars have special 'jump-start lugs' where jumper cables are attached rather than to the battery cables. These allow the potentially damaging surge of current to bypass the electrical system (and all those fancy, new onboard computers). * If the dead car won't respond, there might be a problem in another part of the ignition system. Consult a mechanic. * After you jump-start a dead car, run the engine for half an hour to charge the battery. * Avoid starting or running the charged car while jump-starting the dead one. This is a common mistake in jump-starting cars. This can release a power surge into the charging car and blow a fuse, damage the alternator, or harm other areas of the electrical system. * Many early British cars, such as Jaguars and MGs, use a positive ground instead of the popular negative ground. Consult a mechanic if you're in doubt about how to jump-start your particular car. * The voltage from a car battery is dangerous whether the engine is running or not. Do not touch the metal ends of the jumper cables with your hands, nor touch them to each other. Never grasp both battery terminals at the same time.

lower intake gasket

cylinder numbers are (drivebeltend-to-transaxle end) front(radiator side)2-4-6 rear1-3-5 firing order123456 coil pack from left 5-2-3-6-4-1

If it is just water and not coolant, then more than likely the A/C drain line is plugged. Crawl under the car, passenger side, and find the drain line near the firewall and unclog it. If it is coolant then your heater core is leaking and needs replacing. Test the water and if it smells or taste sweet it is coolant.

on the battery u stupid prick

some of them will.depends if they are roller rocker or studded. also check for match at the intake gaskets. not all will fit, but some definitely will.

It sounds like you're going to need to track down an electrical problem. It could be the turn signal switch that is inside the steering column, but if it is get someone to look at it who is trained to remove your air-bag. It could be as simple as a fuse, or as difficult as replacing the switch (which is a real pain)

Not in real life only in Harry Potter films

I bought a wiring harness at a store specializing in all things trailers for my 2000 Montana (they are also readily available on-line). The instructions were so-so, but what you need to find is the place behind the cover in driver side trunck. On mine, there was a plug to accept the wiring harness. After that it just about routing the wiring - I routed mine through the rubber grommet where the brake light goes.

my 1997 Saturn did the same thing over the summer. it went off when i changed my oil. also, check to see if you're putting the wrong kind of coolant in your car, it should only cost $40 to replace if you are.