Saturn (car)

No dipstick; just an inspection hole on the side. Unscrew the plug and stick your finger in (a job best performed when the engine is off) to determine the current level of the lubricant. Lubricant SHOULD be even with the bottom of the hole.

If the noise keeps going as you turn it's PROBABLY CV joints.

If it's just one "pop", then it's probably a worn or loose suspension component. I'd suspect the strut.

6.5' I think ... google it like: "what is my speaker size"

Check link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf65ON1CpEk

Which relay?

There are several relays under the hood, in the electrical box adjacent to the battery. These are "plug in" relays for the horn, fuel pump.... Just pull out the old one and plug in the new one. Of course, you have to remove the cover. That may arguably be the most difficult part of the procedure, but even at that, it's quite simple.

The starter relay is attached to and an integral part of the starter.

low like 15 rms 30 peak per speaker aftermarkets start at 50 rms per speaker

Saturn transmissions are considered to be "zero maintenance", and as such are sealed. There is no dipstick nor is there any user serviceable fill ports.

At least, not easily serviceable.

You CAN remove the pan to drain the fluid and change the filter.

You can also open the port on the side of the transmission and add fluid to the full mark. You'll need to identify where the port is by referencing a service manual.

You hear noises coming from the alternator. The dash light for charging stays on. If not equipped with light might be a guage, in which case you see it not charging.

There are two probable causes. Assuming you are talking about a car fan, the screeching can come from a mis-alignment of the fan withing the cowl or shroud that conducts air to and from the fan. If you are talking about a home HVAC unit, the screeching probably comes from a slipping drive belt (or a tired hamster).

The airbag modulator should be located inside the middle console of the car where the transmission shifter is located or directly behind it. The cover needs to be removed to get access to the modulator.

Check your antifreeze coolant level is it going down , is your oil milky ? does your oil smell like gas , do a compression test this will help to determine if you have bad rings ( gas getting into oil ) When did you get your oil changed last ( filter plugged ) When you say "high", do you mean when you first pull the dipstick out without wiping it? If so this is normal, as the oil is pumped through the motor it "looks" high, but it's not. The oil gets splashed onto the dipstick, making it appear that the oil level is higher. Check the oil when the motor has been off for awhile to get the true reading. When you first pull the dipstick out wipe it with a clean rag and reinsert it all the way in, pull it back out, this will be the true reading. Measure your oil level when parked on level ground.

I thought the fuse diagram was on the back side of the fuse panel cover.

The 2007 Saturn Aura has the newer style and more rare "pinch tab" wiper arms. See sources and related links below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the replacement packages - note that not all wipers will fit on pinch tab arms so be sure to reference the make, model and year of your vehicle for the brand wipers you choose to purchase. Pinch-tab compatible wipers are a little bit trickier to find. Locate and press the tabs where the wiper blade meets the wiper arm then tip or rotate the wiper down out of the tab attachment, then rotate slightly so you can remove the little hook at the end out of the hole. The video below shows this in the reverse order but you'll get it.

I don't know - but I removed all the size 30 Torx head fasteners (look for extra one behind the wiring rubber hose thing..) then it seems the handle is restricting the removal - but the handle is rivited? on ?

I am removing the door because of an issue that I know occurs frequently, the door won't open, and you have to break out the black plastic cover and a piece of white plastic to get the door open to start removing the panel..

The way to get the exterior panel off is to have the door handle extended all the way and on the bottom of the handle is a rivet with a circle in the middle take a skinny Phillips screwdriver and press the circle all the way up until it clicks then take a flathead and pry out the rivet then slide the door handle out.

The basic principle of bleeding a master cylinder is, "get all the air out of the system".

A master cylinder is nothing more than a hydraulic pump. When you press on the pedal, the hydraulic oil in the pump is pressurized, and the piston at the opposite end moves.

Any air bubbles in the hydraulic oil will compress, making the pedal feel "soft", and you will not have adequate control of the hydraulic system, whether it's the brakes or the clutch.

So here's the principle:

When you press on the pedal, the oil moves FROM the master cylinder, through the hydraulic lines to the clutch slave cylinder or the brake wheel cylinders. Any air in the lines moves along with the fluid.

If you open a wheel cylinder (or clutch slave cylinder) bleed valve when the master cylinder pedal is pressed, hydraulic fluid will be released, and possibly any air bubbles that may be in the line. If you close the bleed valve before air can get back in, you MAY be able to get all of the air bubbles out of the line.

In reality, you typically need to do that several times for each wheel before you can get all of the air out, and you may need to repeat the procedure a few times for the clutch slave cylinder before it will work properly.

If you're bleeding the line properly, keeping the master cylinder full of fluid and you STILL can't get rid of all the air in the lines, it's possible that you have a leaky master cylinder or slave cylinder. Sometimes they suck air when they're going bad.

Good luck. Hope this helped.

Heavier oil will move slower and maintain higher oil pressure. The heavier oil will be slower to get past the piston rings and the valve stem seals, resulting in less oil burning.

Heavier oil is generally better for worn engines, but if the engine isn't worn, you should use the thinner grades of oil, as originally recommended.

It will be on the very bottom of the radiator either the left or right side. If you do not see a drain plug it might not have one. If it does not have one it requires you to remove the lower radiator hose to drain the radiator.

Open the hood of your car and locate the fuse box by the battery.

Open the box and with your key in the ignition , turn the key to "run" make sure the motor is off. And press the red oil reset button in the fuse box. hold it down for a few and that's it.

F opec

GM shut down production of Saturn in Oct 2009 and will close dealerships in October of 2010.

Yes! both the radiator and the hoses are swapable :) Just besure that if your vehicle has a automatic transmission the radiator has the automatic transmission cooling line fittings.

Chain

You don't. The 2000 Saturn refrigerant is not Freon R12 it contains R134a. Add it at the Low pressure port. You have a leak or it would not be necessary to add refrigerant. It is illegal to add refrigerant to a system with a leak without first repairing the leak. Take it to a professional and have the leak fixed.

Pick up a Haynes repair manual for the vehicle. They have wiring schematics in them.

It is an aluminum bearing that allows smooth contact (and opertion) between connecting rod and crankshaft. The power that transfers from connecting rod to crankshaft creates the rotary motion that in turn provides the power to the transmission [thus wheels] that in turn moves the vehicle. It is also lubricated by engine oil which is sent by pressure created from oil pump.