Serpentine Belts

I finally went to the Ford parts department and they provided me with the diagram to replace the belt. Thanks anyway.

Check the serpentine belt for cracking and "checking" by a close visual examination. Look at the "inside" of the belt where it rides on the pulleys. The grooves should not be cracked, or missing ridges on the inside of the belt. Also, check the idler/tensioner pulley bearing for noise/wear. I changed mine when I replaced the spur ( timing ) drive belt and tensioner/idler pulley/shock absorber at 100,000mi. I also replaced the AC compressor drive belt and idler/tensioner pulley at that time.

How to put on belt

Mostly carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen (that's all that's in sugars and fats);

with small amounts of nitrogen and sulfur (proteins),

plus tiny traces of lots of many metals (vitamins and such).

On a mk3 you will have to remove the whole centre pannel. On the heater controls you can use a screwdriver to pop of all the knobs and the heat fan level will just pull off, then use a screwdriver again to pull off the whole heat control and unscrew the bulb. now take off the ash tray as if u were cleaning it and look around the bottom area, there will be a total of 3 screws that must be removed. once it has come off you must be careful not to damage any wires, u can then get to the cigerette lighter, two connectors plug in the back of it must be removed and the cigerette lighter shud just pull out, unless there is some sort of clip. put the new cigerette lighter in its place and plug it in with the same connectors and put the centre pannel back in using the reverse process as to how it was removed.

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You must unbolt the engine from the engine mount and jack the engine up to obtain clearance. You must do this for both the alternator/AC belt as well as with the secondary Supercharger belt.

Most common cause is that it is too loose, but make sure none of the pulleys or driven accessories are bent or out of alignment.

You will need to buy a e-z-out. Drill a hole in the bolt put the e-z-out in and turn ccw. The e-z-out has left hand threads on it and it will back the bolt out.

On the 4-cyl model, the best way I've found is to remove the plastic panel in the front passenger wheel well (three removable push clips and one bolt), then with a long 14mm box end wrench pull down on the tensioner pulley and remove belt. installation is reverse.

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There is an automatic tensioner that keeps tension on the belt. THere should be a label in the engine compartment somewhere giving you a diagram of the path of the belt and showing where the tensioner is and which way it turns to loosen the tension. On the 1995 GMC Sierra that I just worked on, I loosened the nut on the front of the tensioner a little, then I used a big pipe wrench on the tensioner itself to rotate the tensioner assembly counterclockwise then removed the belt while still holding the tensioner, then gradually released the tensioner. From looking at it I guess there is a special tool you can use to do this, you might want to check with Advance Auto. or whoever your closest auto parts store is to see if they will loan you the tool.

try tightening the tension pully works like a charm

Standing in front of truck look to your below power steering pump you see a pulley that is your tenisorner pulley 15mm loosing the bolt on pulley above to the left is another 15mm also turn counter clock wise to loosen it this will help remove the belt

"Yes. Many companies make tool belts, they basically hold tools around your waist for easy access while you are working on a job. You can buy them online."

The usual culprit is the a/c-p/s belt.the alternator belt is a ribbed design, & usually doesn't give trouble. You need to use a 1/2" breaker bar in the square hole on the P/S bracket. Loosen the other bolts on the bracket, use the breaker bar to applt pressure to tighten the belt. If the belt has been noisy for a while, it is usually glazed, & should be replaced with a new one. Just remember to re-tension the new belt after it has run for a while, or you'll have the same problem with squealing.

Did a mechanic look at your serpentine belt and tell you it is bad? If he did, it is probably bad. Open your hood. Take a look at it and feel it. Do you see or feel any cracks? Do you see any places where rubber is breaking off? If you do, it is bad. Replace it.

On top of the radiator front middle area there should be a diagram right behind the hood latch

Yes, I do know that when my water pump was changed that the wheel was removed to gain access. Work space is very tight, my mechanic says its the tightest he has worked on at his garage.

Drive belts are used to turn the alternator , power steering pump , water pump and air-conditioning compressor , Due to their function and material make-up , the belt are prone to failure after a period of time and should be inspected for ( cracks , separation of the belt plies , fraying and glazing ) It is reccomended to inspect the belt periodically to prevent major engine damage .As for your question can this cause a serious accident ? that's hard to say ?? Be on the SAFE SIDE get the belt change, safe driving to you

It is very hard to do but you will need a 12mm socket for the alternator and a long 12mm wrench to loosen the bolts on the other pully and a 10mm Allen wrench to adjust the A/C belt

Place a breaker bar on the lug/hole on the tensioner; then pry against the tensioner.

Look for bolts to loose the air unit or belt tensioner remove old belt, add new one. Use a pry bar or if using belt tensioner a large wrench tighten bolts.

usually this information is on a sticker, under the hood, right beside the hood latch.

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