Serpentine Belts

Belt diagrams help the person changing the belt know that they are replacing the part correctly. A diagram for a 2002 Ford Focus belt routing can be found in the maintenance manual.

Look at all the pulleys and you'll see one that isn't really connected to anything like the power steering unit, alternator, water pump or the engine. It's connected only to an "arm". This arm is spring loaded and is what provides the "tension" to the belt. If I recall, there's a nub that you can put an adjustable wrench on and use the wrench as "leverage" to swing the arm and release the tension. Then with your other hand, get the loosened belt off of the alternator pulley first (since it's a small pulley and it's right on top). Now you can release the arm since you have the belt started and the rest is elementary. Reinstall the same way...get it almost all the way on exept for on the alternater, pry the arm to give slack, slip over the alternator last and you're done. This belt is grooved with an exect number of grooves. This grooves match grooves on all the pulleys. Make sure the belt is lined up in all the grooves-especially the very bottom pulley...the crankshaft-it's the one most likely to be not quite on because it's hard to see while you're prying with the wrench.

Probably not. They are among the parts that are considered normal to wear out.

V Belt is thin and V in shape, and is normally used to power a single component in a system of pulleys. Serpentine Belt is wider, and is used to drive multiple components in automotive engine, it loops continuous over several pulleys. In addition, V Belts are normally found in older automotives.

There are two belts on the 99-04 chev tracker. One is the large serpentine belt which drives the coolant pump, power steering etc. and the other is the small belt which drives the radiator fan. I'm assuming you mean the serpentine belt. Firstly, the belt tensioner on my 2000 2.0L tracker is spring loaded and as far as I can tell, shouldn't need to be adjusted. I had a problem with my tensioner as I live in a northern climate where they salt roads in winter time. The salt worked its way into the tensioner causing the spring to seize and once the belt stretched over time. it became quite loose. Apparently this is a common problem, not just with salt, but also moisture causing the spring to rust and stick. To change the tensioner, first tremove the serpentine belt. There are two bolts, one just below and to the right of the power steering pump, and the other to the right of the alternator. Remove these and replace tensioner. Look in wrecking yards for another tensioner if you wish to save money as the part was $180 Cdn at my local NAPA store and $40 from a junk yard. Don't throw out your old tensioner as it is still usable. Fill a large empty coffee tin with vegetable oil or sewing machine oil (not motor oil, or used oil) and put the old tensioner in there. Leave it sit and soak in oil until the new tensioner seizes. I have the NAPA tensioner on my tracker now, and the original and the junk yard tensioner in oil in by basement for spares. Hope this helps!

Could be to tight. (bad tensioner) Is there a bad/bent pully or bad water pump/alternator/etc? (wobbling pulley might destroy belt)

Belt dressing is the worse thing you could do. Remove the belt and clean all of the pulleys and install a new belt.

you need to take the motor mount off to change the belt, you can do this by placing a jack and a block of wood under you engine and ever so slightly jacking up to take the pressure off the engine, you need to be carefull or you will crack the oil pn trust me i learned the hard way, take it to the dealer, i will never do it agin.

How in the H### designed this system where you have to raise and lower the engin just to change a fan belt. THEY SHOULD BE SHOT. Please forgive my comments. I have never heard of such a thing just to change a fan belt. But I am right in the middle of it so I am screwed because I just do not have the tools to raise the engin. So tommrow it g's to the shop.

If it is a 4 cylinder 2.4L, it is quite easy to do with a wrench and a bar. Rotate the tensioner bolt counterclockwise and the tension will be released. Slip off the belt and slip on a new one.

If it is not still under the hood on one of the stickers then it is in a "Haynes Manual" that can be found at any parts store.

find the 19mm bolt on the side connected to the tension pulley. either a braeker bar or long wrench can do it. pull toward the fromt of the car (may take some effort) hold firm and remove tha belt quick. you need to remember the pattern of the belt (draw one)and make sure it fits the right way. no rubbing on the sides and fits into the grooves. after the new belt s on, run car and monitor the belt. easy money.

It is right on the front of the engine. Its a vertically mounted shock absorber, held in place on a cam by a 13mm bolt. One of the easiest to get and and undo.

It can be several things, either by themselves, or in combination. 1) the belt has dried up and isn't as grippy any more. This causes it to slip and squeal. There are sprays available to restore grip on belts which might help. 2) the belt has stretched a little, which causes it to slip and squeal. Retension, usually by adjusting the alternator position and it should be OK. 3) one of the auxilliaries(alternator, power steering pump, water pump) is about to seize. If it's harder to rotate the belt will slip and squeal.

google this. ford-autobestanswer. you will find the diagram picture.

Outdoor Power Equipment Website

Actually is an alternative word.

I need the routing for the serpentine belt for 1990 Ford 150?

Okay, this can be a BIG pain in the butt, but not if you do it right. It took me all day to tell that the belt was slightly offset on one of the lower pulleys. This was the only thing holding me back, but I'll walk you through from step one. Step one is... Take out the reservoir for the radiator. It's up against the firewall, and you'll have to pull off a little sensor, it's pretty simple. Next, there are a few hoses that will get in the way of the detensioning tool. I don't know what they are called, but I believe one is to an oil or hydraulic fluid cooler, and the other is the drainoff for the radiator. The main bracket holding it down is on the P/S pump, has three bolts, then the next is on the motor mount, and the third is on the frame, slightly underneath the alternator, but just a bit offset. There are several bolts and nuts, about 5 you have to remove. Once you get all of this out of the way, it will make your job 100% easier. The hoses should be slacked enough so that you can detension the belt properly. NOW, what you actually set out to do!

The first step is getting the belt in. Start at the very bottom. The pulley on the A/C pump was where I had issues at the very end, I had to (painfully) wedge my hand down in their, WHILE DETENSIONING, and slip it back on there straight. It is kind of dark in there, you'll need a light. Now, slip the belt onto the crank pulley. Have a second person on hand to hold the belt at the top to keep some tension on it while you slip it onto the A/C pump. Now slip it around the tensioner, over the water pump. Use a bent coat hanger to get it up under the ribbed idler and around the alternator. Once again, the threads have to be PERFECTLY STRAIGHT, or you are just screwing yourself. Next, go to the other side and slip it up around the power steering (P/S) pump, keep it over the smooth idler. Now that you have it all in place, turn the tensioner to the right to relieve the tension, and slip the belt underneath the smooth idler (it takes a tiny bit of shoehorning, as the motor mount is in the way). Viola! It should be on now. If it isn't, go over the whole thing with a flashlight and make sure the belt is one the threads properly anywhere. IF you have question as to whether something is on straight, and the belt won't go on, it's a good bet it has slipped a thread or two off of the crank pulley or A/C pump. You will know when it is all in place right, as when it is, the belt slips back in without a tidbit of resistance, easy as pie. The detensioner tool is indispensable for this, because I had to lean on the dang thing to make get enough slack and have my hands free to get the belt back on. Would not have worked with a wrench or ratchet. If you don't have one, you can rent one at Autozone. I am not sure about other part houses though. It's not to expensive, and a good investment as they are UNIVERSAL.

Any parts store ,like Autozone can print you one.

Open the hood and there will be a sticker by the radiator (right above the grill) showing belt routing.

yes 302 cubic inch v8.. the prefered car of vanilla ice

There is usually a sticker with a small diagram of the belt path on the fan shroud or somewhere near under the hood near the nose of the truck. You'll probably need a 3/8 or 1/2 extension and rachet to move the idler pully into position for slipping the belt in place.

there are 2 serpentine belts on the 2.3. the outermost one drives the compressor/power steering/waterpump. the inner one drives the alternator/ac compressor/vacuum pump. to change either, you need to relieve the tension on the automatic tensioner, i have a special tool for this. i also pull off the right wheel, and remove the lower splash shield. pulling the motor mount and the upper radiator hose gives you a lot of clearance, but it takes longer.

Almost impossible without a lot of work. Just get rid of the squeak by spraying all belts and pullies with belt dressing.

Need to know if you have a Detroit, Cat, or Cummins engine in order to answer this. As for the idler pulley itself, it's pretty simple to locate - it's the pulley which only spins, and doesn't actuate a pump, alternator, compressor, etc. Removing it is as simple as loosening the belt, unbolting it, and installing it in the opposite order.