Toyota Previa

Try to take to nagative battery out then put it back... That should go away if it comes back within couple of hundred miles then you could eather have a problem with your EGR valve or o2 censor... Good Luck..

the expansion valve it's located inside the line of the A C bottle, but if you open the bottle wish is located on the lef side under the hood , you will need to replace the bottle bacause the system can"t have air inside. you will need to have the system vacumed anf fill by an ac mechanic

before you do this you need to take out all the freon of the system and then proceed with tha above

open the hood and look in the left side you will see the plasitc bottle and visually chek the oil level

get a flat panel tool or a wonder bar and put in between the door panel and the door and pull toward the inside and you will see that is held by plastic clipsit has to pop out

Look underneth right beside the shaft going to the front

According to the Previa Owners Manual for 1992 the recommended differential lube is API GL-5 80W-90 weight or 80W (below 0 degrees F), in the Alltrac Transfer case API GL-5 75W-90, transmission takes Dexron II or up. I use III as it readily available and cheap to replace.

change the fluids every 30K or 2 years if in severe dusty areas or towing conditions half the miles 15K and annually. The manual states to inspect but I would do the auto tranny every 30k just to make sure it doesn't have problems as it gets older. My Previa has 177k miles and I have no issues with the auto transmission. The differentials I would keep a close eye on the gasket washer (if it becomes corroded it attacks the fluid. They are $2 at Toyota a cheap alternative to changing fluids if it is not affordable.

i can say this if it was the catalystic converter the car will not go over 20 mph it will loose power,,,

if is the converter, the car will loose power will not go over 20 miles mph

its on the side door like the side of a computer speaker

remove the screw that holds the door handle inside get a pry bar and pry the top portion of the panel it will pop open look where the mirror goes you "ll see three screws that hold the mirror to the inside remove them unplug the wire that conects the mirror , install the new one and reverse the presigues,, ok??

it probably don't have enough electricity current going through it to power it.

do you have an amp?

if it still won't work then try getting a back up battery.

easy.

1)when you open your door, the sticker beneath the hindge is your vin #

2) open your hood and behind the engine somewhat near the center of the frame of the engine bay should be your vin # engraved.

3) on driver side look at the dashboard from standing outside and you will see the blue vin# plate at the corner.

Remove the Fuse for Fuel Injection for a few seconds. The fuses are located under the cover in the centre of the dash. The Release for the cover is just under the trailing edge, above the radio/heater controls, of the cover. On my '95 the fuel injector/EMC (computer) fuse is near the right rear of fuse area. Note: There's a nice diagram on the underside of the dash cover panel that you just removed.

The amount of Freon you will need to recharge your air conditioning system is dependent upon how low the Freon level is. You should begin with a one pound bottle of Freon.

You really dont want to use starter fluid on a 91' because it can cause severe damage to your engine

Evap flush is a scam. No need to do it. No manufacturer lists it on their recommended maintenance schedule.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

No but the pump runs only when air enters the Mass Air Flow meter. In other words the Mass Air Flow turns on the fuel pump.

Access engine compartment by removing 4 bolts & right front seat , 2 bolts retaining seat leg, jack & tool bag, & 9 bolts to engine cover. PCV is recessed in grommet at top of #2 cylinder head cover with hose leading up & towards driver seat. Slide clamp, separate hose, & pull valve straight up. Grommet is inexpensive (couple $). If worn, cracked, or stiff, best to remove with pliers being careful to keep pieces from falling into valve area & replace. New grommet will also allow PCV to slide in easily, provide tighter seal & better engine performance.

Are you sure it's full of coolant? Thermostat in upside down? (it happens to the best of us) Are you sure the radiator fan is coming on? Belts tight??? Check everything twice. Even if you're sure it's not the problem. Not sure what Pontiac 400 is....I would make sure you have enough anitfreeze/coolant. Then make sure you don't have a leak in the radiator and that the radiator is big enough for the engine. Make sure (if the car is old enough) that the fan is working. Do you know who rebuilt it? Sometimes one of the headgaskets could be installed wrong and overheat the engine since that whole side wouldn't be getting circulation. Also, timing can contribute to overheating. Then again, a new engine can run a little warm for the first few miles, while the rings/cylinders are getting broken-in. Check that the EGR valve is working right, if it's stuck you could run hot and burn valves. If it's carburated there is the possibility that it's running lean, which can also cause overheating.

Replace the handle. You will need to remove the door panel to replace the handle. If you can't do this yourself take it to the dealer. They should charge you about 1.0 to 2.0 hours labor to do this, plus the part.

ignition or starter or both.

I have that problem check the water level of your battery, i find if i top up battery water, the flashing stops.

The core support is indeed connected by spot welds and bolts. You will have to drill them out or use a die grinder to gently grind off the "head" of the spot welds.

Take the wheel off, and remove the caliper bolt on the bottom, from the inside. Lift up the caliper, and the pads should come out. Do your self a favor, and buy Toyota pads, and a shim kit. The kit still comes with anti-seize lube for the top spindle the caliper rides on. You may not need everything in the kit, but you will be glad to have extra parts, in the event you lose something in the process. And, don't forget to put in the horse shoe shaped wire spring clips that straddle the air holes in the rotors. This will keep the pads away from the rotors when you are just driving. If you buy after market pads, they will hang up, stick, and prematurely wear out the rotors, too. They are just not metalurgically compatible when you factor in the break dust, heat, and friction.