VW Beetle Type 1

Sounds like the shift coupler bushings need to be replaced. They will start doing that as a first sign of the bushing going bad. Or, the reverse gear idler inside of the transaxle is getting worn. Somewhat rare thing to happen.

take a look at this website, it should help ya with whatever you need.

http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/index.html

here is another:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

Impact gun/wrench and a puller

roughly 28 to 30 mpg ,totally stock unaltered engine

http://home.clara.net/hallvw/wire6870.htm

If the car is wired for 12v, then there should be two wires that fit onto the alternator. The large red wire with the round fitting on the end goes on the B+ terminal, and the clip ended wire that goes to the coil and the ignition wires to the D+ terminal. A word of advice... to avoid burning up a new alternator (I just did that) make sure the warning light on the dash (the red light) has a working bulb. Without it, the circuit is interrupted, and for some odd reason, this causes the internal regulator to fry.

They are Pressed in. You will need to take it to a shop

get a wiring diagram-- they are everywhere online

In 1971 and 1972, the Super Beetles had the same flat windshields the "Deluxe" Beetles did. (The curved windshield was introduced with the 1973 model year.) The quickest way is to open the trunk and look at the spare tire. If it's lying flat, the car's a Super. ALL the Supers have the Mcpherson strut suspension so just look at either of the front wheel wells and if you can see a "shock" inside the coil it's a super. There's an easier way, which you can use from 20 feet away from the car: look at the front apron--the piece of sheet metal below the trunk lid. If it's slotted, the car's a Super; if it's not, the car's a Standard Beetle.

18 foot/pounds 18 foot/pounds

The distributor drive is a little shaft with a gear on the end of it that meshes with a gear on the crankshaft.

Your first task is to be sure there's not one in there already. Stick your distributor in the hole where it goes, shove it in as far as it will go, and turn the rotor. If it meshes with something in there, you've got a distributor drive. Tighten the distributor clamp after you static-time the engine, and be happy.

If you DON'T have one...

remove the right-side valve cover. Turn the engine over with a wrench until number 1 cylinder (the one to the front of the car) is in firing position--both valves closed.

Get a distributor drive, grease it up (it probably won't go in unless you do), and put it in the hole where it goes. Don't stick it in all the way. Put a rotor in your distributor, mesh the end of the distributor shaft with the distributor driveshaft--it only fits one way--and turn the rotor until the long, narrow end, which is where the fire comes from, is pointing at you. Now push the distributor down until it stops.

If you have lived a clean life, the teeth on the distributor drive meshed with the teeth on the crank, and the distributor bottomed out like it was supposed to. No one gets that lucky, so just move the rotor back and forth a little and it will drop right in.

This is easy, you can totally do it yourself on a W124 body anyway.

Lift hood.

Reach in to each corner and squeeze trigger to remove the corner lights, twist and pull bulb and wires out and set plastic lens aside.

Fold wipers forward and remove nut and pull wiper off, give a straight out tug. Disconnect the little water hose from the car, not the wiper.

Look for large plastic round thing on cross-member on top of lights, turn it 3/4 turn and pull up.

Loosen nut in area where the turn signal was to remove/loosen the metal part which goes across the front.

Using a flat screwdriver GENTLY! lift the remaining tabs, pull out the plastic lenses and then remove the lights.

no. 68 was still swing axle rear end. 69 has IRS. the only way you could use it if you took the side plates off both cars and took the differentials out and swapped diffs and side plates, but its more work than its worth, just get a used swing axle from a junk yard. I think any swing axle tranny will work from 61 or 62 up to 68. you just have to use your axles from th 68 tranny. up to 66 were short axles and short splines, 67 long axles short splines, 68 long axles long splines.

dot 3 or 4

Step one is to remove the large wing nut on the clutch actuating arm on the transaxle, located ahead of the engine, oin the drivers side, on top of the transaxle. Next, you have to remove the accelerator cable from either the pedal assembly, or detatch it from your carb linkage. Lastly, you need to remove the two bolts holding the pedal assembly on, one in front of the accelerator pedal, and one behind it. The pedal assembly should pull right out of it's mounting hole and you will have access to the clutch pedal hook and the clutch cable. Remove the clutch cable, inspect the clutch pedal hook to make sure it isn't getting too worn out ( I have had one of these hooks break off on me from years of driving and a Kennedy pressure plate ), then thread the new clutch cable into it's guide tube, hook the end onto the back side of the clutch pedal, re-install the pedal assembly, then the large wing nut and accelerator cable. B. Nash

# If the vehicle is 1972 model with a seat belt warning buzzer, unplug the electrical connector. # Raise the adjustment lever and slide the seat forward until its runner contacts the leaf-spring stop. # Depress the leaf-spring stop with a screw driver, raise the adjustment lever and slide the seat forward about 1 1/2 inches. # Reach under the seat and detach the tension spring. # Slide the seat forward, lift it off the tracks and remove it. # To install the seat, grasping it with the backrest folded forward for better balance, place it in position over the tracks and slip the inner runner into its track. Pull the seat toward you slightly and insert the outer runner into its track. # Raise the adjusting lever, slide the seat back and reconnect the tension spring. # Plug in the electrical connector for the seat belt warning buzzer, if equipped.

I am not sure what you mean by 'old school' but you can do this several ways...

1) Weld in one of the adjusters that you can buy.

2) Fit 'drop spindles'

3) Cut and Turn : you cut the middle out of the tube turn it a little, then weld it back in (and hope you got it right )

4) Take springs out until it sags so much it looks lowered.

All of these probably need you to hacksaw an inch or more off the bumpstop rubbers. Unless you have a good NHS dentist.

All these will drop your beetle.

4 will also break your Beetle as soon as you hit a pot hole and the bump-stops give way. On a buggy you need to soften the front until it rides properly but on a Beetle or Baja you are just weakening it so much it will be dangerous.

3 Will work fine, but you need to be very clever about how much you turn before welding it back in. Or you need to cut it out and weld it back several times until you are happy with it.

2 Is very expensive, unless your welder drives a porche and charges silly money.

1 is the way to go. Just as much hassle as in 3, but for less than what you'd pay for 4 gallons of petrol you get to be able to adjust it afterwards. If you are cutting and welding beams have a look at altering the length of them to suit different alloys/tyre widths inside your wings?

I just checked a 1969 VW Transporter and asked a service rep for a repair shop about this and he stated that the starter on most old VW's are located behind the rear passenger wheel well. You might have to remove the rear wheel for easier access.

The engine type will vary from truck sonoma to sonoma, some may have a 1.9L, 2.0L, 2.2L, or 2.5L I4, or 2.8L, 4.3L, 4.3L Vortec V6.

The firing order for a VW Jetta 1991 4-cylinder 1.8 is 1, 3, 4, 2. The number 1 cylinder is closest to the pulley on the engine.

Yes. I haven't ever heard of adding mayo. Use a beaten egg instead. Crab meat, bread crumbs, a little garlic / garlic salt, paprika, maybe some cayenne pepper, green onions (chopped finely), parsley (chopped finely), and an egg. Then fry in canola oil (don't let them burn, just brown).

Looking at the left, center, top of the motor, just behind where the Dist goes into the block there should be a sensor sticking out to the left.

Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, A manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . No. None on any Beetle in the USA. I believe VW didn't put them on until they moved the plants to Mexico/Brazil. Not sure what years they finally put them on. Late '90's????? There are after-market ones you can put on tho.

Remove one at a time to determine which each controls