VW Polo

how often do cv joints need to be replaced in a polo tdi

Using a small lever in the car.

depends on the year, most are either in the spare tire well or under the back seat ( 1996 - 2005 years ) with Volkswagen the Vin code is not the " chassis " ID that is required for performing an alignment or ordering certain parts

Multiple warning lights on a vehicle can mean several things. It often indicates a mechanical or computer failure on the vehicle.

If you are talking about a Kombi it should be on the front pulley, which then lines up on a scale plate on the fan housing.The scale plate is held on by 2x 6mm bolts so someone may have removed it. Some European cars have the marks on the flywheel which you access by pulling out a small bung on the flywheel housing. The early Subarus use this method.

This light means you have serious problem with your engine, get it to a mechanic!

replace c/v joints

You need to switch the red wire with the yellow wire and it will not lose the memory any more. One wire is coming from the ignition and the other from the battery directly.

This is the answer of my 2003 model Polo:- For left hand drive cars, it is on the left hand end of the dash board. Open the left hand side door fully, put a screwdriver into the small slot and lever off the cover. Inside you will find the fuse layout and pliers to remove/replace fuses. For right hand drive cars, the fuse panel is on the right hand end of the dash. .........might be the same for 2004

Check to see if there is label on one of the door posts or fuel filler door

They mean it's time to take the nice people at your friendly local VW shop some more money. Seriously. My wife's 2000 Passat's dashboard is lit up like a Christmas tree with warning lights - check engine - abs brake failure - STOP! - etc... We have taken it to the shop and everytime they say nothing is wrong - the car is fine....that will be $110.00 please. Her last "scheduled maintenance" cost over a thousand dollars - and it STILL had a "check engine" light on when she left. now, we can't pass an inspection because of the warning lights. I'm ready for another car. Sad, though because as a car it is really great - lots of power and great handling with a solid feel - not tinny.

clean the lights (not being sarcastic ) you would be surprised how much dirt comes off them. failing that fit some uprated xenon bulbs around 20 quid they fit straight in no modification required. the fitment you are looking for is H4

The engine light can be diagnosed with a special machine that will check to see if anything is malfunctioning. If there is a problem an engine code will be displayed.

lift out the little ash tray under the flap in the centre of the car

there are a bunch of lights all over the dash on a '86 SL. Does this light come on near the fuel gauge? Is it an oxygen sensor light? Does this light come on the bottom of the instrument cluster? Is this light RED? There are several warning lights on the bottom row...emergency brake light, brake wear warning light, brake fluid reservoir warning light,ABS warning light....? You really need to be more specific as to the location and appearance of this light. If you have your owner's manual handy, take a look at that. If you don't have one, I suggest you order one from MB. They come in very handy.

car service kit contains

Could be switch on gearbox, wiring or bulb.

look in the manufacturers handbook it will clearly tell you addition: Handbook will only tell you to take the car to your latest VW dealer which will inevitably cost you money to replace a bulb that costs about £5 - a design handicap that won't let you near the bulbs let alone find the release spring. You have two options - take it to a dealer and pay up or spend a fair while disassembling the car to fix a minor fault that will get you fined if you don't do it.

If it is the filter only this is a DIY project. A good filter like K&N will run somewhere around $50. If you get into a cold air intake system you could be looking at almost $200 just for parts not to mention you may have to do some modification under the hood to make it fit, if your not comfortable doing this you can pay a mechanic and that may run another $100 or so.

if its 2002 /2003 with timing chain get the updated tensioner and new chain fitted before it jumps as these do at 50,000!

The vehicles recommended tire pressure is in the drivers front or rear drivers door jamb and in your owners manual. The pressure on the side of the tire only tells you the maximum amount of pressure that the tire can safely handle. That figure is not the recommended tire pressure.

master key on volkswagen golf 1997 wont open the doors

It would be reasonable and logical that the starter motor or starter solenoid could be the source. Although it doesn't rule out an ignition switch.

Two things in my experience.

If rapid clicks, starter gear probably not fully engaging with flywheel due to insufficient current.

Low battery (may be charging issue if battery is good, Any independent shop will check battery/charging) OR the solenoid is shot (copper connection pads get worn out).

If it is intermittent solenoid, single click but no turn over then try again and works, solenoid is bad as above. Usually this deteriorates over time especially in cold climates like New England.

If you believe solenoid, pull starter out and take to auto electrical shop for a rebuild. If cold climate, the starters take a beating and they will rebuild starter & solenoid.

Folowing not likely but...late models use a relay. The ignition switch controls the relay, the relay feeds the solenoid, solenoid feeds starter. I did have a 1997 Tahoe that was intermittent (turn key twice it starts). I did not believe solenoid was bad since I'm warm climate. This can be (carefully, know what your doing & verify relay part numbers) checked by substituting a relay from another "non-vital" circuit (say air conditioning). The relays MUST be the same so verify part number.

My Thaoe's electrical diagram did NOT show the relay and I almost rebuilt starter. I could not believe solenoid was issue. It was bad relay, $23 at NAPA.

I would be suspicious of a weak battery first because it is only during cold weather. This is when the battery is most susceptible to failure. Drop it off at your local independent shop that you use outside the night before when it is cold, and with a little luck it will happen so it can be diagnosed.

This is caused by not enough power reaching the starter solenoid to make it engage the starter motor. The culprit could be: a) a weak battery (only if it turns the starter slower than normal when it does turn it)b) worn ignition switch contacts c) loose wire connection (somewhere from switch to solenoid) d) a wire that has developed high resistance or become frayed or worn out. e) worn starter solenoid f) on newer models an ignition relay

I had this problem on two older model cars I owned, on both my cars the cause was the ignition to starter solenoid wire had developed high resistance. This is the reason newer models include a relay. I adapated a relay on both my cars long before this addition was included on newer models. This I�ve found is the main cause for clicking starter solenoids, and is very common on earlier models but many times missdiagnosed as starter, solenoid or ignition switch related.

It could also be a bad battery connection. Check the battery cables for tightness and sometimes corrosion.