VW Polo

My wife has an '03 Polo, and had a blown H7 bulb on the drivers side.

I followed the instructions below, which were very helpful, but it became clear to me that there is an easier way (at least for the '03 Polo).

Instead of removing the black plastic ring and metallic ring, simply loosen the Torx screws so that the black ring can be rotated. The rotation of the plastic ring causes the locking tabs on the metal ring, which is holding the bulb in place, to be pushed aside. The bulb can then be easily removed and a new bulb placed. The plastic ring is then rotated in the opposite direction to cause the locking tabs to hold the bulb in place. The Torx screws are then re-tightened, the connector is re-connected, and the rubberised cap replaced.

John Kelly

I have just done this on my wifes 04 Polo. The headlight bulb I changed was on the passenger side RHD car UK spec.

Open front bonnet/hood

Remove the plastic cover on the back of the headlight unit. I used a broken motorcycle mirror and a mag light to get a good look inside at what was holding the bulb in place.

It is held by 2 small 'T20' Torx screws at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Using a short approx approx 15 cm Torx screw driver or in my case I constructed, using a small socket extension and a T10 Torx bit, a tool of the correct length.

Undo the Torx screws taking great care not to drop each in turn. It is extremely fiddly but possible with care.

Once the screws are removed the black plastic outer circular cover can be removed. Take care here again as there is a thin metal plate behind the plastic cover which comes off also.

Remove the bulb from the headlight unit and replace with the new bulb taking great care not to touch the glass or the grey area at the top of the glass bit.

Next I removed the plastic cover on the other headlight unit and used the mirror and small mag light again just refresh my mind as to the order and orientation of the parts to be fitted.

First I replaced the metal plate on the back of the headlight unit and then inserted the bulb correctly into the plastic wired receiver from which the old bulb was removed. Make sure the tab on the replacement bulb is facing upwards.

I placed the black plastic surround over the bulb and let it drop back down the wires a little to give me room to work. Make sure the black plastic surround is facing the right direction to fit onto the back of the headlight unit.

You can look through the headlight unit itself from the outside whilst doing this as it is constructed plain glass and this helps fine tune the seating and orientation of the bulb.

The trickiest part I found was in replacing the 2 screws. I realised that I would have to be holding the parts in place whilst fitting the screws so I placed the Torx tool handy in my pocket. I placed the screws where I could easily reach them on the engine bay area.

It is very fiddly and GREAT care must be taken not to drop the Torx screws I found tightening them a little using my fingers to start with worked then very gently placing the tool into the head and tightening gently worked.

Once the screws are replaced you can replace the plastic cover.

This took me about an hour but saved considerable time, expense and inconvenience.

It is hard not to be a little synical about why this job has been made so difficult.

I hope this helps someone.

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This solution works on the 2005 facelifted model too.

It is not necessary to remove the torx screws, just loosen them enough so you can twist the bulb fitting anti-clockwise to remove.

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Updated for 2002 (9N1 Chassis) TDi

The easiest method to replace the bulb on the Drivers side (And probably the Passenger side) is to remove the front bumper.

Attempting to move the Header tank and other components across to gain a few more mm's of access failed miserably.

Instructions:

• Remove two Torx screws (T20 or 25 sorry it was dark) on Grill near headlights, look for two clips near the bonnet release mechanism. Using a flat headed driver, or good strong finger nails, pull them towards you to release.

• Then remove the grill by carefully pulling it up towards you.

• Looking at the front bumper from above remove three more Torx screws (T20 or 25 again).

• Get under the wheel arches and remove four Torx (T25) screws along the edge of the arch, do the same on both sides of the Car.

• Get under the front of the car and remove any Torx screws holding the front bumper onto the protective plastic panel directly under the engine etc. Some where missing on this car but I think there is four in total.

• There are also some plastic rivets to unclip, I just popped them off with a driver, not the best so maybe get the proper tool and some replacements if you want to.

• Starting from the drivers Fog/Drivers light work your way towards the center of the bumper and you will notice some release clips at the back of the plastic fog/drivers light surround. Pull those away from the fog light and the surround will detach for removal.

Do the same on the other side.

• Where the surrounds for the Fog/drivers lights have been removed notice two more Torx head screws, remove these.

• The Bumper should now slide of the car allowing access to the headlights.

Headlights are held on with four Torx head screws (T20 I think)

Replacing Bulb is a doddle after that.

Took me an hour, in the dark.

Update 16/03/10

I have found it even easier than both of these methods. It takes about 15 mins to do the job of changing both bulbs.

Take off the rubber cover.

Loosen the Torx screws (at 3 and 9 o'clock) about half a turn or so, and then you can twist the black plastic assembly (look at the slots that the Torx screws fit through, you will only be able to turn it one way) until it clicks - which is not much. You can then pull the bulb out of the headlight.

Then remove the old bulb from the connecting wires (pull the plastic connector assembly off the back of the bulb) and attach the wires to the new one (push fit for the bulb).

Then fit the bulb back inside the light assembly (little tooth on light bulb casing pointing upwards). When seated then twist the black plasitc assembly the other way, again you should hear a click.

Then tighten the two Torx screws and refit the rubber cover. Job done.

This is not an uncommon problem with these cars. I had the speedometer cut out intermittently on me, and at first suspected the speed sensor (the plastic gear on the transmission). Unlike the person below said, this gear can easily be removed from the top of the transmission, WITHOUT dropping the engine/trans. I know because I pulled the gear to check it.

Turns out that my problem was a few cracked solder joints on the back of the instrument panel circuit board. I removed the instrument cluster, disassembled it, and re-soldered a capacitor near the speedometer, as well as all of the pins where the wiring harnesses clip into the circuit board. I wrote up a DIY and posted it in the FAQ here, if you want to search for it: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3370991

sounds as though you cluster craped out as the tach and the speedo are controled by to separt things.

The last answer is incorrect as I have the same problem. But they will work every now and then (probably loose wire). When I get my Bentley manual I will find out which one and fix it, instead of giving half-###ed answers.

I had a similar problem with my GLX VRG, the VW Jetta GLX VR6 get's it's speed signal from a hall sender which is a means to change a mechnical sugnal from the transmission into an electronic signal that is read by the dash. I tried replacing the hall sender as it mounts on the transmission at the back of the engine. No Luck. Changed the instrument cluster. No Luck. It turned out to be a small gear in the transmission that rotated the hall sender. I had to replace this. The gear worth about $3 bucks and to get to it, was dropping the engine and removing the tranny at a cost of $700. Hope that your problem is the hall sender and not the gear.

Good luck!

The problem is your speedometer cluster. I had the same problem, and it had to be replaced. If it was just the sender, the tach and speedo would not be out at the same time.

I am going thru the same with my sons car we just bought. The first test is to see if you have power (12volts) to the two outside contacts of the 3 wire hall sensor on the transmission ( the sensor is very visible when you open the hood and look down at the transmission, being just below a 2 wire sensor, it is removed by popping off the wire bale). if you have 12 volts to the outside contacts with the ignition on (not the engine running) you would then reinstall the sensor and then connect (probe) the center wire with one lead of your multi meter and the other connected to the positive terminal (Yes, positive terminal) on your battery. now with that all hooked up, jack one wheel off the ground, turn ignition on and turn the wheel slowly. If the sensor is good, the voltage will change from approx 2 or 4 volts up to 12 volts and then back and forth as you rotate the tire. Now I am headed for the instrument cluster which is in my hand and awaiting a replacemnt. (was easy to remove cluster).

Warning: this answer is given for "most" systems, but may not work with all and could result in a small (and expensive) explosion. It is strongly suggested you get a repair manual for your year, make, and model of car.

In most systems you disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable (at the battery post) and touch it to the POSITIVE battery post, then using a low pressure clamp; clamp the cable to the post for the entire time you are working on the system. If you disconnect the wiring for the air bag you MUST connect the two wires together (with a jumper wire) to ensure no static discharge sets off the explosive.

Second Warning: The above information cannot be used to operate the vehicle with the air-bag disconnected for any length of time; the car may not run with the air-bag disconnected and its disconnection results in a serious danger to the occupants (more so if it is left in the car but disconnected, as any form of static or EMP discharge can set off the unit and injure occupants)

Ok i gotta say it LOW OIL PRESSURE :) Just messin with you :) it could be multiple things your low on oil, you got a serious leak, or the enigne is history, I think low oil level might be the most common.

I have an '01 Aztek and the Oil Pressure Switch (Sending unit) is bad. It's a $15-$25 part depending on where you buy it. Take it to a qualified shop and have them "scan" the computer. It should show up as a stored trouble code. Mine only did it a few random times. For those of us who've lost an oil pump, you generally "know" by the really bad knocking noises from under the hood. If it's not the switch, sorry, you need a pump!

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