Brake Fluid and Lubrication

The low brake fluid signal on a Chevy Cavalier indicates that the brake fluid level is below the recommended level. It is important to add brake fluid immediately to prevent brake system failure, which can result in loss of braking power. Check for leaks in the brake system when topping up the brake fluid.

So the line can flex between the body and the frame/chassis.

For most vehicles, a small reverse spurt on initial application is a part of normal operation of the internal disc brake adjusting mechanism.

the master cly is located under the fresh air intake box ,you have to remove the cabin air filter box on the driver side under the hood

open hood,

unbolt the bad M/C

remove and discard.

benchbleed, fill the new m/c up with fluid and pump a few times making sure its full of fluid

install on the Cherokee in reverse as removing it.

its an easy job, maybe 1 hour max.

also bleed brakes after if needed. typically air bubbles will rise and should not need bleeding, if so just bleed passenger side and then drivers side.

i just use a coke bottle and a piece of aquarium tubing.

john

It must be a Ford. That's a common problem. It usually means that you have an air bubble in the pump that is stuck. The bubble collapses and expands as the pressure changes. Often it is difficult to get the bubble out and the only thing you can do is put up with it. Quite a few Fords make that noise. But it doesn't mean anything bad is about to happen. It's just annoying.

Your pedal will go to the floor for a few reasons. First, your master cylinder may be defective and/or empty. The master cylinder will be empty for a reason. Any or all of the wheel cylinders may be leaking, the brake hoses may be leaking or broken, a steel brake line may be rusted through and leaking or broken. A loose fitting will cause a leak too but this is not likely the case on such an old car. I would suggest you fill the master cylinder, bleed the brakes and when done, look for leaks. If you don't find any leaks and the pedal still goes to the floor, the master cylinder is likely bad. Carl King http://www.classiccarauto.com

By the fire wall on the drivers side, has a yellow cap

yes if allowe to dry 24 hrs but should NOT be used on lines or tubeing or any pressure point ... if youre fixing the resivour it should be fine if the parts repairing are reaaallllyyy CLEAN

No J-B Weld is not fully resistant to brake fluid. I used it on a brake resivour for a motorcycle. It held up for a few years, but over time J-B Weld was broken down by the brake fluid.

Remove the cover of the speedo and you will see there.

Good luck.

The cover over the speedometer and tachometer removes by pulling from the back to the front, and lifting up. You will find the brake fluid reservoir in the middle on top of the master cylinder. This also serves the clutch slave unit if you have a manual transmission. In addition, you will find two screw-in switches in the sides of the master cylinder, these are pressure activated and control the brake lights (a common failure item, and cheap to replace. Be sure to use Dot 3 or Dot 4 brake fluid, but NEVER Dot 5. Bleed the brakes at least once every two years. Don't forget to Bleed the clutch slave too. Be sure to place an old towel or rag around the reservoir when filling, to avoid splashing of brake fluid on wires in area.

yes.

NO, the problem needs to be properly repaired. its not like an oil or antifreeze leak. the basic principle of a brake system is the free movement of fluid through the brake lines. an additive to this system to "stop" a leak would ruin the whole system and be catastrophic to fix.

brake leaks are generally an affordable fix.

You will need to bleed the brakes, starting from the caliper furthese from the master cylinder then moving closer.

Listed on the master cylinder cap.

the biggest thing that causes brake fluid to turn "black" is high copper content. This is the result of your brake line deteriorating from the inside. when it is black you really should change it. the copper will start wearing out your rubber seals in your brake system, eventually resulting in.............................

NO brakes!!!!

You can do it the hard way or the easy way.

The hard way requires three people. You put the car on jackstands and remove all four wheels. Put the wheels under the car; if it falls off a jackstand it will land on the tires and many dollars will be saved. Now...one person sits in the driver's seat and puts his/her foot on the brakes. The second person stands next to the master cylinder with a big bottle of brake fluid in hand. The third has a hose that'll fit on the bleeder valves, a wrench that'll turn the bleeder valves, and a quart bottle with some fresh brake fluid in it, plus a container of new fluid and an empty jug to hold the old fluid.

Start by sucking all the brake fluid you can get out of the reservoir with a turkey baster, vacuum pump, syringe or whatever you have. Fill it back up with new fluid. Then you go to one wheel, put the hose and wrench on a bleeder, and yell "pump!" The person in the car will start pumping the brakes. At pump two, open the valve. The person next to the reservoir will start adding fluid to keep it full, and you will watch what comes out of the hose: when the fluid coming out is brake-fluid color, that wheel is changed. Do the same thing on the other three wheels.

The easy way is to replace the person at the front and the person in the car with a power bleeder. I think Motive Products has a monopoly on these. After you suck out the bad fluid, fill the reservoir from a fresh quart or liter bottle, then dump the rest of the fluid into the power bleeder tank. Hook the hose to the reservoir, pump the thing up to 10-15 psi, go to one wheel, hook up the hose and wrench, and open the valve. Sit there and wait until the fluid coming out is clear, then go to the next wheel. If you have one of these, go around the car twice.

the parking brake on caterpillar dump truck is spring applied and pressure released

Brake fluid is hydroscopic. It absorbs moisture out of the air. That gives unsealed brake fluid a shelf life.

The clutch is not being released all the way, or the clutch disk is damaged.- Or in cooler weather, you will have to delay the time that you change gears, as the transmission fluid's viscosity is thicker, and the blocker rings/sychronyzers take a little longer to allow a proper shift. If you have ATF in your tranny, then it wouldn't be a problem, but then you will have to start suspecting a bad clutch disk. OR OIL IN TRANSMISSION IS TOO THICK. SOUNDS LIKE THE PROBLEM! DOES IT GET BETTER AFTER CAR GETS HOT? YEP THATS IT, TOO THICK!

lower gears you can also add an new intake which will give your 10-20 more horse powers

In the engine compartment , on the drivers side , by the firewall

The firewall is the metal " wall " that divides the engine compartment from

the passenger compartment

On the brake master cylinder, under the hood, driver side, up near base of windshield.