Brake Fluid and Lubrication

had the same problem with my 94 b3000, it was actually leaking in the motor, it had a bad transmission modulator or vacuum diaphragm which ever you want to call it, the is the valve between your vac advance line which goes from your transmission to the back of your upper intake manifold, i found out because my did the same thing trans fluid was disapearin and i couldn't figure out where, i changed my oil one day and i had 3 quarts extra in there "trans fluid", took it to aamco told them to fix that part, it cost $120 and BAM better then new. Oh yeah my also would smoke randomly when i had the problem

You don't have brake fluid

There could be air in the system and it requires bleeding to rid it of air. If the vehicle is an older one, the master cylinder may be porus or the bore pitted. It should be resleeved or replaced. The seals could also be flat. Jam your foot down hard on the brake pedal. Is the pedal high? Does it sink to the floor if you rest your foot lightly on the pedal? www.powerbrakeandsteering.co.za

Ruptured wheel cylinder--needs to be replaced Chances are brakes have been soaked with fluid and need to be replaced Good idea to replace both sides and bleed system

The metering proportioning valve on a 1974 Ford F-100 4x4 regulates brake fluid pressure between the front and rear brakes, ensuring optimal braking performance and preventing rear wheel lock-up during sudden braking. To replace it, first, safely lift and secure the vehicle, then locate the valve along the brake line. Disconnect the brake lines (be prepared for some fluid spillage) and remove the mounting bolts. Install the new valve by reversing the disassembly process, ensuring all connections are tight and free of leaks before bleeding the brake system to remove any air.

I own a 1996 2.2 Sunfire I got with 127K miles. It did have it's oil and tranny fluids changed regularly along with the fuel filter, so that was a plus. Everything else that came with the car off the dealer's lot was still on the car. I know this because a family member owned the car before I got it in 2005. I can only speak for a Sunfire with the 2.2L engine. If your 1999 Sunfire is similar , change the spark plugs and wires; the air and fuel filters; the PCV valve, and the serpentine belt. These items are readily accessible, though the fuel filter is located under the car above the rear axle. Inspect the exhaust system: loose or missing hangars, cracks or holes in the flexible pipe from the manifold between the pipes leading to the catalytic converter too. Change the oil and oil filter! Have the trans fluid serviced. If it has never been serviced, consult a trusted mechanic first! Sometimes high mileage transmissons that have never been fluid serviced shouldn't be. Worn parts tend to become problematic with the newer fluids. While under the hood carefully inspect all your radiator hoses for wear, ballooned or excessively soft near the clamps, as that could indicate a pending failure. Also check the bypass hose as well as the water pump for leakes, check the heater hoses and over flow reservoir too. If changing your hoses, change the thermostat. Look for oil leaks from the valve cover and either tighten the bolts or replace the valve cover gasget. Inspect the areas around the power steering pump for obvious leaks. It's a good idea to siphon as much fluid out of the pump and replace it with fresh power steering fluid. I did the same procedure to thing to the brake fluid reservoir. It's not the same as actually bleeding the brakes, but it can't hurt either. Inspect the battery terminals for corrosion and clean as necessary with baking soda mixed in clean water to neutralize any acids that could be present. With the engine running, listen to the alternator for obvious clicking or whining as that indicates worn bearings and will soon fail. Mind did failed at 128K, right after getting the car. Other noises you will usually hear are a deep clicking that comes and goes while idling. I'm told that's a typical sound of worn wrist pins on the pistons. Will they fail? Possibly. The 2.2 L engine has proven to be one of GM's better motors. It also has a timing chain, not a typical belt found on newer engines. Yes, it's worn, but my engine's still running strong with now 158K miles. It still gives me 25 mpg city/33 mpg on the highway. Doesn't use any oil, although it has developed a small drip at the seal between the trans and rear oil seal. I may need to fix that so my drive way doesn't get messed up to much. It even started up in a 1/2 second when the air temperature was -15 degrees in early February. That's about all I've done to my car, so far. Next project is to change the rear shocks and front struts. I may have my mechanic tackle the fronts.

have good supply of new correct brake fluid on hand easiest way to change fluid it to open bleeder valve on brake. fluid will run out die to gravity keep reservoir topped up till new fluid runs out of bleeder, tighten bleeder, make sure reservoir is at correct level, replace cap. do this to both wheels , one at a time .

The answer above is a brief summary of how to do this but for a thorough explanation see the link below

The master cylinder is located low, on the bulkhead (firewall) You can see it if you look under the hood, but you have to look carefully if you aren't familiar with it. It's very difficult to add fluid to it without a long funnel.

A Couple Of Things. Your Brake Shoes Could Be Worn Enough To Need Changed. But It Sounds As If You Have Air In The Brake Lines, Or A Bad Master Cylinder. I Would Suggest You Check The Front Pads To See About Replacing Them, Then Bleed The Front Calipers Also, I Think This Will Take Care Of It. Otherwise A Full Brake Job May Need To Be Done Installing Brake Shoes And Pads On The Front And Rear. Bleed The Front Then Bleed The Rear( Start by spraying a good Penetrating Fluid On All The Bleeder Screws And Allow A Few Hours To Let It Soak In. This Will Help Keep From Breaking Them Off. Also I Never Use WD40 For Anything Like This. Get A Good Brand PB, CRC, Knocker Loose. Just About Anything But WD40. WD40 Is Just A Water Displacement Chemical Anyway ) If You Find You Need Shoes And Pads. Suggestion++++ Install Both Front Break Hoses To The Calipers, You Will Find This To Be Safe And Best To Do. Reason These Hoses Have A Tremendious Amount Of Pressure On Them When You Put The Brakes On. Also Over Time They Rot On The Inside And Restrict Brake Fluid From Flowing From The Caliuper Back To The Master Cylinder Which Will Mess Up Your Caliper And You Will Be Out More Money To Do It Anyway. Gosh This Is A Lot Of Stuff This Should Help

Not sure EXACTLY what ur asking but there is a resivor on the drivers side, close to the finder, and you just fill it. At least that is where it is on my 95.. prob the same place on yours.

More than likely DOT3. If you will look on the top of the Master Cylinder cap, you will find the proper fluid listed.

Power steering fluid is completely different from brake fluid and NOT interchangable. Don't know your car but in most cases the "brake" light in the dash is a warning light to indicate you have a serious problem with your brakes. Suggest you get it fixed immediatly. Remember, your life depends on your brakes.

Did you bench bleed the master ? Are the calipers and wheel cylinders working properly ? Is there a break in the line somewhere ? Last , is the booster working properly ? What happens when you step on the brake now ? Are they soft and spongy ? Does the car stop at all ? More info is needed to answer this question properly.

1. Use a syringe to remove all the old fluid from the brake fluid reservoir 2. Fill the res with new fluid 3. Get a 1/2 meter length of tubing that will fit over the brake bleed valve, and a 1 liter jar to put old fluid into. 4. Get an assistant, place in drivers seat 5. Start at furthest wheel (passenger side, rear) 6. Assistant pumps brakes (5-10 times) and holds the brake 7. Assistant yells HOLDING 8. You, under the car, at the wheel, open the brake bleed valve wait for fluid to stop running into your jar, close the valve 9. You yell PUMP to your assistant Repeat until you get clear fluid coming out, not dark dirty stuff Move to drivers rear wheel, then passengers front, then drivers front. Recycle the old brake fluid! Note: if you don't have an assistant, you can also presurize the system to about 15psi or 1 to 2 bars and just drain it out. ABS Note: after the first bleeding you should go out and do some serious braking to get the ABS to activate, this will get the new fluid into the ABS unit, then re-bleed the whole system. What a pain. You may want to pay someone else to do this. Safety Note: Be sure to test the brakes before driving off, if you bleed the brakes wrong (allow air into the system), you can adversley affect your cars braking performance.

Check for wheel bearing play. Check that the pads are in good condition and not falling apart. Check the brake master cylinder seals have not failed. Check that there is no loss of fluid from the system. Check the age of the brake fluid. Ensure the braking system has been properly and completely bled in the correct order.

You must have a pinched line or hose. You need to go back over that side from the master cylinder down to the calipher. Double-check any brake parts you may have added to this system.

YOU ONLY BLEED BRAKES WHEN YOU DISCONECT ANY BRAKE LINES OR HOSES OR IF YOU CHANGING YOUR ENTIRE FLUID. IF YOU JUST CHANGE PADS AND OR SHOES YOU DO NOT NEED TO BLEED IT. JUST MAKE SURE THAT WHEN YOU PUSH THE PISTON BACK ON YOUR CALIPERS, THE RESERVOIR CAP MUST BE OFF TO AVOID DAMAGING ANY COMPONENTS.

A bad ABS senser and or loose or burned out fuse.Hope this helps.

Should be in the drivers side rear of the engine compartment. Resovoir should be white. Likely at end of power brake diaphram...or following the lines from that large unit will lead you to it. Or go the other way, from any brake claiper backward along the brake fluid line to the canister!

Problem with the ABS, take it to a pro.

there is a fluid level line on the side of the master cylinder. usually reads max fill no higher than that

paul

Firewall driver's side its on the top by the strut tower it says brake fluid... take off the black filler cap and install new brake fluid in reservoir

It depends on if it ie front or rear wheel drive or 3 wheel drive. If it is 4 wheel drive, it is not good and will cause problems. If it is either front or rear wheel drive keep the wheels the same on the drive wheels ie. front wheel drive, keep the 17 or 16 inch wheels on the front but make sure they are the same.

On firewall directly in front of driver.