Car Shaking Problems

most likely you have a missfire.

A fouled spark plug will make you lose horsepower if the plug is not producing a good spark. The other thing a fouled plug can do is if it is not firing right the fuel that gets into the cylinder dosent get burned all the way and it is then pushed out the exhaust valve and goes into the exhaust system. from there the fuel can get hung up in the catalic convertor and then burn in the convertor and then you will nedd to replace the convertor

it also causes the unburnt gasoline to wash the oil off the cylinder wall and cause undue wear

Maybe some of ur sparkplugs are not working causing the spark to ignite the fuel but idk why it would be doing that maybe an injector is bad

Probable cause is a warped front disk brake rotor. The rotor can be "turned" to eliminate vibs if not too worn.

I'd focus attention on the U joints or if it's a 2 piece drive shaft, check the center "carrier bearing".

It is refered to as "Death Wobble" & seems to be a problem on many Jeeps! Problem is normally caused by a worn Track Bar, if not that the Tie Rods are usually the problem. I am having same issue & have been replacing tie rods one by one & have found 2 bad.

If it shakes all the time it is a tire/wheel problem. If it only shakes when braking then it is a brake problem.

Have the front rotors turned on a lathe at a dealership. check brakes and rotors

All of the following causes mean you have a serious safety issue:

Most comon is a bent brake rotor, but bent drums are also a suspect.

Oil leaking onto the brakes can all cause this.

Bent wheels could be a cause.. Bent from curbs, or bent from tightening & loosening lug nuts improperly.(rare) OR you should have the suspension checked out thoroughly. Most cars are riding on rubber components that have a tend. to wear out. Bushings, Bearings, Axles, shocks you have to check them all.

i need step by step instructions on changing my radiator in my 1999 acura tl 3.2 liter

Usually caused by spark plugs not igniting properly. Check that your spark plugs and and your spark plug wires are in tact and working.

most likely misfiring cylinder(s) and/or worn engine mounts.

A bit vague his one. When an automatic vehicle is stationary, the engine is "laboured" i.e it is under load, as if you were in a manual car in a high gear but only travelling at 5 MPH. It is common for SOME vibration to occur under these circumstances. It could be that something inside the car has become loose therefor adding to the vibration sound. It might be worth checking you r engine and transmission mountings aswell as any weakness here could result in increased movement under certain circumstances. The easiest way I find to do this is to open the bonnet, and attempt to pull away with the handbrake on both forwards and in reverse, (I would advise that you take care and dont over-do this as something may give way under the torque, just gentle accelerator pressure for a second).Look out for excessive movement of the engine, some movement is normal however. If this draws a blank I would then consider the general engine behaviour, does the car idle OK at a steady RPM? Anything other than the isses I have mentioned may be related to the auto transmission which I believe is a job for a real specialist, I havnt met anyone yet who is really clued up with an auto box (not outside of the specialist/dealers that is).

Balancing of tire/rim.

Rotors are warped. Have them trued or replaced as necessary. Also replace the brake pads at the same time.

"Probably" nothing to do with the rack and/or motor mount. I'd check the wheels first. Lift the vehicle and spin the wheels. Watch for a bent rim or a slipped belt on one of the tires. Those are the two most common problems that can cause what you describe.

If that's not it, check the half-shaft (axle) and make sure nothing is bent and that the CV joints are ok.

It does not have one.

The panner bar under the front has too much stress on it and is making your front end jerk from side to side real fast which is causing a shake . You need a drop down bracket for the bar that goes from your fram to your axle on your front suspension ( panner bar ) You can use the one for a 3 " lift it wont hurt anything , just make sure you get your front end aligned after you install it . If you have not had your front end aligned after the lift you need too anyways .

Did you strip the actual plug is rounded off or did you strip the plug threads? If you stripped the plug itself and can get to it use vise grips. If you cannot get to the plug then go to your local parts store and tell then what happened. I know Snap On makes a special socket to remove rounded off bolts and spark plugs. Now if you actually stripped the spark plug threads then you may be able to just chase the old threads with a tap and clean them up enough that you can insert a new plug. Use anti-sieze compound and do not over tighten. 13 ft/lbs and no more. If that is not possible you will have to purchase a Helicoil. You local parts store can sell you the correct size and tell you how to use it.

Tire or wheel out of balance or bent?

Axle bent?

Have you used "fix a flat" ? if yes, You have 2-lbs of water inside your tire now. it cost me 70 bucks to find out and this stuff easts chrom weels. Go to alignment shop and tell them to jack up ur car and they use a special machine to turn the back wheels one by one to find out which one is out of ballance ( dont let them take the wheels off and ballance them since they balance tires and speed lower than 50mph and usually stuff happens around 55 to 60mph. for front tires u can just jack up one wheel at a time and put the car in drive and accelerate one wheel is on the ground and the one you jacked up turns and u ask some one to look at the wheel see if it shakes ( it shakes really bad if water inside the tire) do the same of other front wheel. But for back wheels u need that special machine which alignment shops have and all these machines do they turn the wheel up to 130 mph to see if it shakes or not.

My Chevy did that as well. The steering wheel shook like crazy and the dashboard would shake also when the problem became way worse. As I increased speed the problem became terrible especially on the freeway. Turns out my steering knuckles had extreme wear. Had to be replaced everything was fine then. Hopes this helps.

bad front brakes.