Car Shaking Problems

not usually. warped rotors will cause a vibration during braking.

have coils checked I had the same problem. Check the spark plugs and the wires. It is probably the wires. When you take the wire off the top of the spark plug look for black marks. If there is excessive coking on the top of the conductor then the proper amount of electricity (and timing) is not getting to your spark plug. This will cause misfiring and allow it to bog down the motor. When you lift off the accelerator it allows the timing to start over and usually works. Also, check the gap in the spark plug. I believe AC Delco plugs come w/ a .060" gap. I recommend staying away from Bosch plugs and wires b/c I'm having the same problem right now w/ mine (for the third time). Good luck! I had this happen on a cross-country trip. A new Mass Airflow Sensor took care of it, and took only a few minutes to install, although it was a very expensive cheap little part costing about $200, and hard to find even three years ago, for my 95 Bonneville.

go on yahoo.com then click images then search

Pulsation in brake pedal when stopping?

yes and also a shake or shimmy in the steering wheel when brake. your brakes may also chatter

Can be a bent wheel, tire out of balance, or worn suspension parts.

It may be your wheel disc that's warped and needs to be schemed or lower control arm bushes that's perished.these are the two components that directly affects breaking and causes shuddering (if not ok)when applying brakes during your drive.wheel discs can be taken in to be schemed or replaced and lower control arm bushes(rubbers) needs to be replaced which ever is not ok. Hope you find the prob by either of these two

More than likely the brake rotors are warped and need resurfacing or replacing. Warped rotors is caused by over tightening the lug nuts or from heat caused by heavy braking.

look for a leaky fuel line

first b sure tire/rim is balanced then i would look at the tie rod or a loose bolt or excess "play" at suspention/steering where they connect to wheel hub or is axle not locked into trans. thoroughly if none help u may have a bent hub assbly. "a frame"hope this helps

Sounds like warped brake rotors .

Most likely under-inflated tire

With a fuel pump problem, the car may seem to shudder or make jerking movements while accelerating. This is commonly misdiagnosed as a dirty fuel filter or "bad" gas in the tank. What's really happening is that the fuel pump is wearing out and at high speeds is unable to provide steady fuel pressure to the engine, causing it to misfire.

The end of the vacuum is so deep, it cannot be seen with the human eye.

All depends on how the roters look need turning or not, or can be. Bad tires? greg

A good thing to do on brakes is go to a place that does brake repair. The big names will do a FREE inspection and tell you what is going on. It is 'safe' to do so. They usually won't do any work until authorized to. One exception is some places will tell you they are worn illegally and must be fixed (Les Schwab in the NW does this). Most don't, but remind them they are not law enforcement and tell them you'll do the job. Anyway--Sears, Firestone, Goodwrench, etc. will all give a free inspection and recc. what needs done. Sometimes you can just turn the rotors w/o new ones.

when travelling at around 60 a vibration noise all over the car.If you restart it will be ok for many miles.

A CVT is a type of automatic transmission that is very different from normal auto transmissions. CVT stands for Continuously Variable Transmission. The theory behind CVT is that there are infinite gear combinations. There are no set "gears".

What I mean by this is your normal auto transmission will have 3,4, 5 up to 8 specific gears. The transmission finds the right gear and then move up or down to the next set gear depending on your driving needs. Regardless of how smooth an automatic transmission is there will still be a momentary loss of power when the gears shift.

Not so in a CVT

CVT's have no set gears. They start a high ratio to get you started and then roll along a cone "continuously" changing the ratio, with no power loss and "infinite" combinations, giving fuel economy increases and super smooth acceleration. The downside to CVT is the add weight.

It's probably time to take the vehicle to a suspension specialist. Find one that has some experienced suspension professionals and that is recommended by independent body shops. There are usually one or two suspension shops in every town that just seem better than anyone else and provide good work at a reasonable price. THAT'S the place to take your problem car.

You mean "shakes at 65?" If so, a possible cause is an out of balance tire.

I would check that all tire lug nuts are there and tight and check for warped rotors.

Check tires for blisters and check the steering linkage for worn parts.

"White smoke" is typically nothing more than water vapor. The normal products of combustion in an internal combustion engine are carbon dioxide and water. When the engine and exhaust system are cold, the exhaust leaves the tailpipe much cooler than it was when it first burned in the engine cylinder. When that happens, the water vapor tends to merge together and condenses into the form of a white cloud. When the engine and exhaust system warm a little, the hot exhaust gas dissipates in the air before the water vapor cools, and you no longer see the condensed water vapor. In other words, the white vapor is normal when the engine is cold.
As for running a little rough when the engine is cold, many vehicles do that and it isn't a problem; but if you are concerned, you could have someone run a compression test to make certain that there are no burned valves, and you could replace the plugs/wires to make certain that you don't have a misfire situation. But for me, if it runs well once it warms up a bit, I'd tend to leave it alone. But then, it's a matter of degree. How bad is it when it's cold, and how long does it last? If it's under 15 seconds, I wouldn't worry about it.

It depends on where the noise is coming from, mine blew the donut gasket where the header pipes come together to connect to the exhaust system. It isn't too hard to replace, might as well change the shoulder bolts that hold it together at the same time. I suggest you get the parts from the dealer, the aftermarket gasket I bought the first time was by "Felpro" and while they showed me the listing and they had it correct the gasket was not right. You should be able to identify if this is the problem by running the engine with the transmission in park, rev it at the throttle by hand and listen. If you do this when the engine is cold you have a few seconds where you can place your hand down along side the exhaust header and feel for air. I say seconds because I burned my wrist within 10 or 15 seconds so it heats up fast. To do this you have to remove the heat shield, or you can probably jack the car up, block it for safety (making sure the parking brake is set and the transmission is in park) and climb under behind the front wheel. Have a friend or your wife rev the engine (make it a family affair, I have my 8 year old son, 19 year old daughter or my wife help me bleed brakes etc.) Feel for air flow and listen for noise, even if it isn't the donut gasket (that is what it really is called) you should be able to isolate the problem if it is exhaust related. I had a similar problem. Mine turned out to be the tensioner on the timing chain. It had worn almost completely away. Use an automotive stethoscope to isolate where the noise is coming from and you should be able to figure out the cause fairly easily.

Generally, they don't make a sound. When you go over a bump, and your car keeps going "bounce, bounce, bounce" several times before it settles down, your shocks are shot. The shock absorber's job is to damp the car's springs - the springs are the real "shock absorbers". The actual shock absorber is supposed to stop the spring after the first "bounce".

Struts are a suspension design that diminishes the problems associated with an "un-sprung mass".

The un-sprung mass is the mass of the wheel, tire axle and whatever else follows the road surface.

The vehicle floats along on the springs, hopefully making a smoother, more comfortable ride. When a tire hits an uneven part of the road surface, the mass/inertia of the vehicle causes the springs to deflect, allowing the tire to move over the surface of the road imperfection while, hopefully, not transferring too much vertical acceleration into the vehicle.

Here's where the struts come in:

Struts are a lightweight version of the shock absorber/suspension/spring assembly.

Once the spring deflects, the wheel goes up. The spring of the strut is still pushing down on the tire/wheel assembly and once the vehicle is past the road imperfection the tire will be pushed back down. Now the un-sprung mass has vertical inertia.

With inertia of the the un-sprung mass comes the potential for harmonics, meaning that the un-sprung mass will bounce.

Struts and their predecessors "shock absorbers" dampen out the harmonics caused by hitting such road imperfections. By minimizing the bouncing of the wheel, the driver is better able to control steering and stopping.

There is quite a bit of confusion about what struts and shock absorbers do in a vehicle and while the struts are a combination of a shock absorber and a shock absorber, most of the time people only replace the central shock absorber part of the strut.

For more information go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacPherson_strut

While there are disadvantages to a Macpherson Strut suspension, one of the major advantages is that a vehicle with a single wishbone ends up with a lower "un-sprung mass"

Are you sure there isn't a missing 's'? It could be a typo and the writer meant 'sod off.'