Car Shaking Problems

Rack and pinion steering will not cause warped rotors. The tie rods, which are part of the system, can cause a vibration if the bushings on the ends are worn out. Warped rotors will do the same thing, and this will show up when applying the brakes.

Tires out of balance (broke a belt in the tire) or chuck a weight off. Brake hanging up. Front end loose tie rods & balljoints. Lug nuts loose, wheel bearings going or need grease. Pitman arm or steering loose. check all these start at the lug nuts. good luck. (check motor mounts too if it just shakes when it's idling)

the third member/ carrier and torque tube are one you will have to remove them as an assym

Loose lug nuts, worn bearings, or some other defect.

Bad fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, improperly set idle speeds, dirty throttle bodies, stuck EGR valve, vacuum leaks and bad O2 sensors for starters....

1. check your rear tires and wheels for proper psi, balance and for any bulges in the tires.

2. if problem presists check u-joints in drive shaft and play if any at differential

(you should not be able to turn drive shaft any by hand)

3. check rear axle bearings

If the steering wheel shakes, but to car doesn't, when applying brakes - your front rotors are warped (if you have disc brakes)...if you have drum brakes, the drum could be cracked or the pads worn unevenly If the whole car shakes, and the steering wheel only seems to react to that, when applying brakes - see above statement, but apply to the rear end. If the whole car shakes, including the steering wheel - all four corners are bad, and you're an accident looking for a place to happen soon. In any case, go to your nearest service center ASAP.

It sounds like it has whats called bump steer. You need to have the camber of the front wheels checked by steering specialist.

Disk brake rotor is warped

Possible cause poor fuel pressure. Replace fuel filter first. Doesn't solve problem check fuel presure. Need to know what kind of car you have for futher diagnostics. You're fuel pump may be bad. There are other things that can cause this but need more information.

Your car may be equipped with an Air Conditioning Idle Valve which increases idle speed when the air conditioning compressor engages to compensate for the greater power required to run it. If the A/C Idle Valve is not functioning properly and switching on, then the A/C compressor needs more rpms than your motor is producing at standard idle, and pulling power from the engine itself.

my car does the same 93 maxima se manual transmission. I checked and found out that two of the cylinders are not working so the car is running on 4 cylinders. And that's why the car shakes when the a/c is on not enough power. I plan to either wait till the car gives up or buy a rebuilt engine.

Clean the IAC valve. I had the same problem and I did tune up, changed fuel filter but it still remained same. Then I opened the IAC valve from the throttle body and cleaned it's dust using a Carb cleaner (walmart) and from the very next ride, the AC went normal.. even when idle.

- Sam

It could be your idle control motor (or servo kit), it's part of the fuel induction system and basically regulates air intake. (A new idle control motor should run you about about $200). I had to replace this on my Mitsubishi it cost me $183 to do it myself, which is alot better than what the mechanic wanted ($670.00!!!!)

The grinding is a worn CV joint. Get it replaced before it causes more damage! A worn wheel bearing will make the same noise answer worn wheel bearings or worn brake pads will be the cause

Have that tire checked it may be out of balance or have broken steel belts, also check the wheel bearings and suspension bushings.

If an automatic transmission check and verify correct idle speed (RPMs). If they are good check for hardened or broken motor and transmission mounts. replace as required. ONLY WHEN IT'S HOT, I DON'T THINK IS A MOTOR MOUNT. A SPARKPLUG MISSFIRE, DIRTY INJECTOR, COIL PACK PROBLEM, SPARKPLUG WIRE NO GOOD. I ALREADY HAVE A SIMILAR PROBLEM, AND SATURN FIX IT BY CLEANING INJECTOR. AT COLD, HE DON'T DO THAT BECAUSE IT RUN ''RICH'' IN GAS, BUT WHEN HOT, WITH LESS GAS, THE PROBLEM OCCUR. 80$ AND YOU'RE SAFE. LOL

I would assume that the car is not getting enough gas to the engine when at idle. Is it try to cut-off when at a stop. Check the fuel fliter, maybe put better gas into the car (mid-grade) or better.

When any engine has a rough idle in park or neutral, it usually indicates that the firing order of the sparkplug wires may not be correct. A new engine usually means all new parts. Bring it to a shop and ask them to make sure the firing order is correct.

Make sure they connected all the engine mounts and the transmission mount as well.

A certain amount of heat is normal due to road friction however excessive heat could be caused by underinflation or a problem with braking system i.e. frozen caliper or mal-adjusted drum brakes

Either catalytic converter or EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system issues.

Your are problem having a fuel or vacuum problem. It could possibly be a clogged fuel filter slowing fuel to the motor but it is very common for fords to have vacuum leaks. Check all vacuum hoses or leaks. It is also very common for the intake gaskets to leak(although more common on for trucks). Any trouble codes? Possibly system lean on bank one or two?

Absolutely, yes...

But in reality the shaking is usually a balance problem or shock/strut problem, it's just that worn ball joints will make the car A LOT more sensitive to even the slightest vibration source.

It could be your motor mounts (usually always slightly vibrating the car, especially when accelerating) or most likely not aligned/damaged driveshaft on rear wheel drive vehicles.

check your tires for a belt seperation. check steering stabilizer shock if equipt. if braking, check for warped rotors.

With a new valve gasket

balance your front wheels is the first thing to do. take it to a tyre shop and they can do it for about 10 bucks each wheel. it will only take 5 mins per wheel too. then if it still happens take it to a mechanic because the ball joints, wheel bearings, strut bushes could be worn. and if you don't know what you are doing you could damage the car and make it unsafe.

Hey Yogesh==Have the motor and trans mounts checked. GoodluckJoe It might also be a signal that the brake pads are worn out.

it is an easy task if you have the right toolage... you will need a socket set, socket wrench, a breaker bar, hex sockets, pry bar, flash light, MAPP gas torch, penetration lube, w-d 40, and wrenches and maybe some torx bits too.... Removals.... - Wheel - Disc and Caliber - Tie rod - Ball joint - steering link - cv/ axle bolt to the hub - take off the hub (bearing and hub might be one assembly) - if not remove bearing Installation is the opposite... remember to look for torque specs...