Car Shaking Problems

One of the 1000 posibilities is an ignition misfire, but will be impossible to diagnose without personally driving the vehicle and doing diagnostic checks. On of the most commn things I see go wrong with Exp'ns, is failed ignition coils. You didn't say whether you had a 4.6 liter(separate coil pack and plug wire system) or a 5.4 liter (COP ignition system), so I don't I dont know what type of ignition system you have. Another of the seemingly endless list of causes that your truck could have is low fuel pressure due to a faulty fuel pump.

Try a minor tuneup by changing the spark plugs and checking the distributor contacts. Sounds like the vehicle is burning rich which is what's making it shake and finally stall while stopped. Dirty or worn out plugs or even a bad spark due to corroded or dirty contacts in the distributor will cause this.

Improper pressure?

Tire worn?

Caliper frozen?

If a tire squeals, it's slipping (as in it lost its grip on the road). This can happen if either the tire cannot handle the forces it should be able to handle (for example, because of incorrect pressure, incorrect tire size, or wear), or there is simply too much force put on the tire (for example, when taking a turn at too much speed, when there is too much weight on the tire, or when braking or accelerating too hard).

Auto Zone will check your computer codes for FREE.

Then go from there.

It maybe a bad coil pack, plugs or wires, exc.

Sounds like wheel imbalance or possibly a bad wheel bearing(s).

brakes that are dirty or worn out.

also check your shock absorbers or springs.

or a worn bearing

Check rear wheels are balanced and 4 wheel alignment,

Check rear springs and shocks are ok, check rubber bushes all round.

Is car front wheel drive or 4wd as propshaft uj can stick and cause vibration.

need more info on type of vehicle,

Has it got the correct wheel and tyre size as this can cause problems. eg correct offset and width of wheel.

If alloy wheels are they slightly corroded on the hub, just .1mm can cause shaking!

The cost for the bearing only is between $45 to $90.00. Additional costs for labor can cost between $40 and $80.

Either one brake shoe is more wolrn than the other causing one wheel to stop faster than the other, or you need the wheels balencing because the steering is slightly inward or outward Your front brake rotors are warped. They will need resurfaced (turned) or replaced. This is a very common problem on the 1998-2004 WJ. WJ is the body code for that year range Jeep Grand Cherokee.

First step is to have it checked for trouble codes. If the check engine light is on, the pcm has detected a fault and set a code.

Because most Chrysler 300 drivers are jerk. Isn't this true? They act like they're from the hood....driving fast, zig-zagging in trafic and acting like they own the roads. Ignore that bonehead... look I have been researching this subject and I think that some of the 300 models have had slight tranny problems. Most of it has been corrected in technical bulletins, so take it in to a dealer and let them look at it.

This is a sign of a warped brake rotor. Have the brake pads replaced on both front wheels and have the rotors resurfaced or replaced if necessary. Make sure the lug nuts are torqued to the correct specifications. Rotors can warp due to excessive heat caused by heavy braking, driving with your foot on the brake, or over-tightening the lug nuts.

There's actually several possible causes, its best to get a mechanic to check it out.

I had the same problem and it was the differential and the axell that was bad, the dealer repalaced it for free it was under warranty

Check all of your front suspension bushings. Sometimes they dry rot. Make sure you check the control arms and shocks also. Get help doing this if you need to. ADDITION: Also, it may be a bad motor mount. could be a problem with the wishbone or track rodend possilbe bent strut as well

It sounds like when the wheels were put back on, the lug nuts were over tightened or tightened out of sequence causeing the rotors to warp. if they did not turn the rotor or they were cut wrong it could cause that. some places say they changed it but might of turned them.

change your air filter and get spray cleaner from autozone spray it down the main airflow tubes then check your valve cover gasket i bet they are leaking the oil drips down into the spark plug chambers and causes mis fires and check your timing belt that should do it other than a regular tune up....

possibly a broken or missing engine mount

It most certainly will. A clogged converter will cause a loss of power, poor fuel mileage, and overall poor engine performance. It is illegal to remove it without replacing it with another one. Besides, modern vehicle will not run correctly with the converter removed.

Dextron 111

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

you may need a tune up, or check your timing, or make sure your pickup tube in your fuel tank is not bent or clogged. There are many things that could cause your vehicle to behave in this manner, but start with checking tune up parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, engine sensors, etc) this will cost nothing unless you find a faulty part. Do you mean jerking like the transmission is pushing and pulling? This happens on my 89 Caprice and only after I'm speeding down the freeway. I'm guessing it is just a stupid transmission and just ignore it. IT COULD BE YOUR EGR VALVE OR A VACCUME LEAK I had the same problem and got all kinds of advice, but ignored the spark plug wires when doing the tune up! It really mattered. I ended up getting lifetime wires but not sure when to cash in, probably a year and 1/2. I think they ran some of these wires much too close to the engine and the wires seem thinner these days. Another common problem on this model seems to be the check engine light 22, for throttle position sensor. After changing it twice I noticed grease builds up at the bottom, preventing the TPS from returning 100% and causing lunges at traffice lights. Now if the light comes on, I just wipe the TPC clean with coffee filter and Q tip. The light will stay off for about 6-9 months per cleaning. Do these 2 fixes and I would bet the EGR is not involved, although I have heard of them needing to be changes. All the right advice is here, of course look and listen for vacuum leaks and do a full tune up. These engines can take a ton of abuse and come back. My engine is almost silent at lights and I can hear new cars clicking and clacking away.

Alignment

Struts costs for a 2004 Chevy Impala depend on where they are being bought from. At local auto part store they can cost over $100 while online they can be bought for less than $75 a piece.

Carburetors are fairly simple parts to rebuild, therefore going out and spending over 150.00 is not something I would recommend. The only way I would actually replace one is if one of the sections is warped and leaking fuel, or the carburetor has caught fire. Rebuild kits usually cost between 20.00 and 75.00. If you are having an issue with fuel delivery, inside the carburetor. You may look at replacing the accelerator plump diaphragm or the blowout valve on the carburetor, also the fuel filter. If you have a Carter, or a Chrysler Carburetor, the accelerator pump is internal, just rebuild it.

Thank You Good Question,