Car Sounds

A high pitched squeaking or whistling sound in the front right of a 2003 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 while driving could be due to a worn-out serpentine belt, a faulty wheel bearing, or a brake issue such as worn brake pads or warped rotors. It is recommended to have the vehicle inspected by a mechanic to diagnose and address the specific cause of the noise.

Squeaking noise coming from the tires at low speeds that goes away as you increase speed could be due to flat spots on the tires from sitting in one position for extended periods or a tire alignment issue causing uneven wear. It can also be due to inadequate lubrication of the suspension components or worn-out brake pads. Have it checked by a mechanic to determine the exact cause.

Check your belts.It's probably condensation on your belts that has formed from either rainy weather, humidity or dew.The noise will cease as the belts dry out.If you pop your hood you'll notice a diagram on the underside of your belt system.The wheel in your belt system closest to the ground may be experiencing more rust then the other wheels from more exposure to ground moisture, possibly causing it to grind or may be bent.

Usually that means the doors are open. If they are closed, its probably the door switch. Easy and inexpensive part to fix. Its the little black switch located on the B- and C-pillars near the latch. Two screws and a electrical quick disconnect and its out. Install is reverse.

I own a 2003 Oldsmobile alero, and my steering was squeeking when moving at slow speeds, would happen mostly when you park. If you would sit still while parked and move the wheel you could also here it, and it sounded like it was coming from inside the car. It wasnt a loud noise, almost even more of a vibration. To make a long story short, it ended up being the power steering rack. Had it not been under warranty when I took it in, it would have been a very costly repair.

The knocking noise during acceleration in a turn in a '93 Prelude could be due to worn CV joints or a faulty suspension component. As you apply power in a turn, the force on these parts can exaggerate any existing issues, leading to the noise. It's important to have a mechanic inspect and diagnose the source of the knocking to prevent further damage.

VALVE LIFTERS... the fact that the ticking does not increase with rpms rules out valve tapping or worn piston pin but is indicative of the bearings going bad in the water pump which also would explain the loss of performance.

The rumbling noise could be due to issues with the exhaust system, such as a hole in the muffler or exhaust pipe. The whistling noise could indicate a problem with a worn-out or loose belt or a leaking vacuum hose. It is best to have a mechanic inspect your car to diagnose and fix the issue.

The vibration at speed is more than likely a tire out of balance or a tire with a broken belt. Have this checked ASAP. The pulsation during acceleration can be many things, from a vacuum leak to a clogged fuel filter. Take it to a tech for service.

REPLACE THE SHOCK ABSORBERS OR STRUTS OR BOTH.....DUUUUUHHHHH CARS ARNT MADE TO RIDE JUST ON SPRINGS ALONE SO YOU HAVE STRUTS IN THE FRONT AND SHOCK ABSORBERS IN THE BACK. IF THE FRONTS OR BACK OR BOTH ARE SHOT GUESS WHAT??? SOUNDS LIKE YOU HIT A DITCH WHEN YOU HIT A BUMP........... Also check the right side motor mount. Sometimes the rubber will tear and the mount bottoms out.

The grinding sound when accelerating could indicate a worn-out CV joint or a problem with the transmission. The loud whirring noise at all speeds could be due to a failing wheel bearing or an issue with the differential. The higher engine temperature than normal could suggest a problem with the cooling system, such as a failing water pump or a blockage in the radiator.

2248 watt power

Check the fan clutch. It could be worn and allowing the blades to hit the comling or the radiator grill. Same with all the belts and tightener rollers. One could have a bad bearing.

Defective starter solenoid.

It's the key or ignition or both I speak from experience I had the EXACT problem.I checked the battery,the starter,silinoid,starter relay and nothing.Everything was still good.I took it to a Ford dealer and had my key replacedand vehicle reprogramed.It worked

Policeman

Wear and tear in the crankcase and/or power train. Your car is talking to you about budgeting for an expensive repair coming up.

I assume that this is only for A very short time? I also assume that you are talking about A vehicle with only one belt (serpentine),, If this is correct: The likely cause is: The belt is worn out or lose, (or) the belt tensioner is bad.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If this is not it, Please give more info.

It been my experience that a loud noise when stating a car, grinding may mean the starter is not in right or on it's way out as in replacement.

It's quite likely that one of the mounting bolts that attach the starter to the engine has broken and the remaining bolt(s) are bent, as a result. The bolts should all be replaced ASAP. This is not an expensive repair.

The loud buzzing noise you hear from under the hood when you turn the key to start the vehicle usually means the battery is too low to crank the engine or a loose cable. Some auto parts stores will test the battery free of charge.

This question lacks year, make and vehicle info.

A loud clicking sound that increases with speed is usually the lifters.

Could be anything from needing an adjustment to a bent lifter.

Did the timing belt/chain break recently?

Are there a lot of miles on the engine?

There are a LOT of questions if the vehicle is not present for one to inspect.

Here's a little-known secret: Take it to a shop to have it inspected. Most shops do it for free! Yes, FREE! (Who knew?) THEN you will KNOW what the problem is.

A 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee's rear brakes make lock up and make a horrible noise while driving if there is problems with the rear differential. The pinion may of locked up. A mechanic will be able to help you fix the problem.

Lucas (oil additive) it and pray..if its a rod just drive it easy..if it is spark knock use better gas. answer the door sorry bout that, but if engine is knocking is it at idle, under load,etc knocking can be caused by piston slap,(worn out rings),bad bearings,or simply have engine tuned, all depends where knock is coming from

Usually it is a warning that either you have left your keys in the ignition, or you have left your headlights, interior, or parking lights on.

Sometimes, though, the little switch in the ignition that senses the presence of the key, will stick. Reinserting the key and jiggling it around a bit while removing it will often fix it.

I just had the very same thing happen to me yesterday. My truck had been making that noise for about 2 weeks and then yesterday I went to start my truck and it died on me. My husband put in a new battery and it started right back up! It's alive!! If it is not your battery then it could aslo be your starter, but have your battery checked first. I hope that this helped:)

there is a little metal plate that scrapes the rotor to warn you when your pads are getting too warn down True, if you have rear disc brakes. But if, like most cars built before 2000 and many cars built since, you have rear drum brakes, you probably have a loose spring or something of the like. Drum brakes have springs and cables to hold the shoes in position. If a spring snaps, the shoes will be off center in the drum, causing a grinding sound. They may still work like always. Also important is that rear brakes do only 25% of the work. It's possible that the shoes need to be replaced and the drums turned or replaced even if you are able to stop with no problem. Ignoring a problem with brakes will end up costing a whole lot more money in the long run.