Car Sounds

if the car is rear wheel drive, sounds like a u-joint. If it is front wheel drive, sounds like a cv joint. It could also be your engine mounts wearing out. If the rubber insulation has worn out then the engine will shift slightly against the mount and make a clunking noise. This happened on my 96 Nissan Quest minivan.

The sound you are hearing could be coming from bad Tires. As the Tires Feather because of misalignment or suspension issues, they develop an uneven wear pattern. If the noise gets louder as your speed increases, this could be your problem. Get to a Tire Dealer and have your Tires and Suspension Checked. :-) Another noise that sounds like a tire noise is a wheel bearing going bad. IF you take you hand and feeling the tread around the tire, you can tell if there is a smooth feel or a wavy feel or choppy feel etc. Anything other than a smooth feel could cause a roar. IF your struts are original, they may be causing a choppy wear.

Maybe a wheel bearing -does the sound change when turning in one direction or the other? Could be a belt driven accessory that has a bearing going bad. i.e. alternator, water pump, belt tensioner etc.

Hey Mart==Generally just one valve ticking wouldn't cause a power loss. It deoends on what kind of car and engine you have. It could be an injector ticking which would cause a dead miss. GoodluckJoe

More than likely, if the tire is not flat, and the steering wheel shakes, your problem is a bulge in your tire. As someone else has said, it is probably caused by a bad tire. It may have a broken belt. Also, some tires develop flat spots if the car sits too long. Does it happen constantly or just when you start driving? As a last suggestion, I would check that all of your lug nuts are on tight. If a wheel is loose, you might experience sloppy driving - especially going around corners. The problem should be resolved when the wheel falls off. The "bulge" refered to in answer 1, and the "bad tire" in answer 2 is PROBABLY the cause of your problem. However, a "broken belt" very seldom occurs, almost never unless the belt has been "cut" in a severe collision with a sharp edge. Also, answer 2 alludes to what we used to call, many years back, tire "morning sickness," which occured after a nylon belted tire had sat all night on the same part of the tire. The ground contact point of a tire is slightly flattened, and the nylon belts would take a temporary "set," so that until the tire was driven long enough to warm up the tread and nylon belts the temporary flat spot would cause a slight thumping and jarring. I thought that all nylon belted tires had been replaced by steel belted, meaning that issue should be non-existant today. As answer 2 asks and suggests, does it just do it [thump] when you start driving? If so, then it probably is morning sickness, and there is no cure, just live with until it is time to replace the tire(s). Also, you mention a slight shake in the steering wheel, which would suggest that the offending tire is one of your front tires. Even a thumping rear tire can be felt in the steering wheel, BUT you will also feel it more strongly through your seat if it''s on the rear. A thumping front tire can also be felt in your seat, but will feel, relatively, stronger in the steering wheel. The number one cause of bulging spots on radial tires is what is called "belt separation." A tire is made of several layers of belting material laid up like a sandwich, with the layers "glued" together. IF a flaw allows air from within the tire to work it's way into the sandwich, it can cause some of the layers to separate, fill with air, and cause a bulge, or "blister.' Due to the air pressure, this bulge can be very hard, and will cause the tire lift and thumping you describe. Answer 2 also makes a VERY GOOD SAFETY point, in that loose lug nuts on one of the wheels can cause a similar symptom, BUT left on it's own [withour proper retightening], will continue to become looser, until the wheel FALLS OF THE VEHICLE!!!! DO NOT allow this to happen. Periodicaly [spelling?] check the tightness of your lug nuts on all wheels, or have your tire service people do it. It could save your life!!!! Also, check and adjust your tire pressure REGULARLY, weekly at a minimum.

I turned off the AC panel, turned the key counterclockwise, set it back to off, then back to on and then it started back up. I took a few seconds in between each turn of the key. Hope this works

If its a high pitch noise and its not rubbing on the wheel well, its probably your power steering going down additional info: A cheaper thing to look at would be this: It may be that the tire is contacting the platic fender liner in the wheel well. Did you just replace the tires and go for a lil bit different size than you had? check inside the wheel well for fresh rub marks (clean black plastic and check your tires also for rub marks. I put 235X15 tires on my Limted which were slightly larger than the original equipment and the tire rubbed the liner only when the car was moving and at full steering stop to the right side. The owners manual shows that tire size as compatible with this make and model but I assume that the shocks and other suspension components have sagged somewhat over the years allowing this to happen. I took a sharp blade and carved off a little bit of that plastic from the liner and the problem was solved. You might also have someone look at your shocks etc for wear... Good luck !!!!

From most to least likely:

1. Starter solenoid is not getting power

2. Starter solenoid is bad

3. Starter gear is stripped

4. Flywheel ring gear is stripped

Age of starter is not really relevant. It is possible to get a defective one.

Check electrical connections. Some cars have a separate wire to the solenoid.

Remove starter, look for obvious damage to gears.

If you don't see anything really glaring, like a chunk of flywheel missing, take the starter to any auto parts chain store. Most of them have a testing setup and do the testing for free.

I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it does the same thing. I called the dealer and they said it is most likely the sway bar link/bushings. I'm going to replace today and hope it works since it's an easy fix.

In my experience if the car will not start and it is a rapid clicking sound when turning the ignition it indicates a dead battery. You'll need to get a jump and wait a few minutes before trying to turn the car on again. If the battery is really dead it will take up to 10 minutes to recharge. Each time you try to turn the car on while it is being recharged it will lose the charge it has obtained and you will have to start over in time for recharging it. If you think your battery should not be dead when it is, you may want to get your alternator checked by taking it into any auto parts store as this will drain your battery prematurely.

If the transmission modulator valve is vacuum operated and it goes bad it can allow the engine to suck transmission fluid thru the engine causing the engine to blow blue smoke out the exhaust.

This noise is probably comming from your starter. Either it's going bad or needs a shim. Shims are very common among GM cars. It will work for a while, but you take the chance of tearing up the flywheel and that will cost you a couple-three bills to replace that badboy. It can also reduce the lifespan of your starter.

Could either be a bad starter drive or a bad tooth on the ring gear/flywheel Try turning the engine manually (large socket on crankshaft) and see if it starts without grinding. If so, probably a bad tooth. If no change probably a bad starter drive

Sounds like a poor connection at the battery or starter.electrical connections.

im having the same problem....a piercing screeching sound when u turn the car on or pull off from a red light. i waas told it was the alternator belt. either it needs to be tightened or loosened or even changed. then if that doesnt work it might be your tension that pulls the belt. so have your alternator belts checked. hope this is helpful!

one possible reason is that your ball joint is bad, another could be that you have rack and pinion problems, you need to get it looked at, your wheel won't fall off but the problem won't get better. My husband is a mechanic.

Look for a loose or corroded positive battery cable at the battery post - or a loose/corroded battery terminal on the positive cable.

This sounds like a common problem, but it would be nice to have more info on the Jeep. You must have the 5.2 engine. It comes with a Model 249 Transfer case. This T-Case has what is called a Viscus Coupler in it that is supposed to give approx 60% power to the rear wheels, and 40% to the front. Then change as needed. The Viscus Coupler is known to be a problem. If you have this setup then I would be willing to bet that when you make a sharp turn you are also getting alot of skipping with the tires, and possibly when it is warmed up you turn sharply into a parking space at a store, shut it off, and just sit in the car for about 5-10 mins, you feel bumping from under the car. All of this is common with a Viscus Coupler going bad. They are not cheap to fix at a shop. It can cause your front CV's / Axle to go bad very quickly. Along with other things. If this is not the problem, and it is coming from the rear end, then you might have a limited slip inside the rear end. IT could be going bad and making a grinding noise. I hope this helps you out in finding the problem.

A miss or a missfire is when the spark plug does not create a spark or sparks at the wrong time. Causes of a missfire are: worn out spark plugs, bad spark plug gapping, bad or broken spark plug wire(s), worn out distributor cap and or rotor, bad ignition coil, worn gears on the distributor or camshaft, worn out timing chain/belt, for computer controlled engines the coil pack(s), ignition module, cam sensor, knock sensor, oxygen sensor, ecm, throtle position sensor, idle air control valve just to name a few (depends on manufacturer and model).

Is it a boom? If so, then the car is getting too much gas when you start it. Check the fuel injector(s) and the carburator.

If this noise is like a loud ticking at a fast pace, it would be your starter going bad. If the noise is a loud boom/pop sound from the rear of the car, it would possibly be that the exhaust is backfiring..... not sure how to fix that aspect to fix the issue.

experts said to much gas at starting...they all were wrong.car had a old battery..put in a new one and problem fixed

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info

'Knocking' is a technical term for fuel igniting too early in the combustion chamber.

It can be resolved by adding anti knock additives to the fuel or by retarding the timing at the relevant revs. Most modern engines have built in knock sensors that do this automatically.

Loose headlight(wiggle it to see), if not its loose or corroded ground wire. just follow the wires and it will have like 3 or 4 wires going onto a ground bolt, take it off clean it and put it back together. and you should be all good, if not get your alternator checked out.

Usually that just means the battery is dead. It's trying to crank the starter but doesn't have enough power. Try jumping it from another car and see if that starts it.

When a grinding noise is detected first locate the area of the car it is being generated from. Most grinding noises will be being generated while driving, if you are having a hard time detecting the location of the grinding sound, have a helper ride along in the rear seat to give a new perspective on the origin of the grinding noise. A grinding noise can be generated by many things from worn out brake pads to axle bearing failure. Once a grinding sound has been detected action must

if they screech for the most part it is a good indication you need new pads there is a metal indicator that when brake pads wear down will start scraping against the rotor now if you know the break pads are good or new screeching is common for the first few days if it continues it could be that you did not apply brake grease to the back of the pad where the pad meets the caliper if that's the case take them off and get a couple tubes of brakde grease (not that expensive) and put them on the back of the pads BUT DO NOT PUT THEM ON THE ACTUAL PAD WHERE IT WOULD CONTACT THE ROTOR that will make your brakes fail