Car Starting Problems

as far as stalling, could it be an idle sensor gone wrong? As far as kickdown, perhaps a stuck accellerator cable, seeing as the linkage is mechanical, a sticky throttle lever? One could get the auto tranny flushed and refilled with fresh fluid....worth a try...

if you are in cold weather you do.

There is not an inertia switch on this car. The fuel system is computer controlled with relays. So you need to stat with checking for codes, check fuses, etc.

A bad connection inside the ignition switch will keep it from turning the engine over.

Connect the power and unlock the shut drivers door with your key.

Changing a valve cover gasket really has nothing to do with an engine starting or not. You need to check your power and gas for problems in starting.

Have somebody crank over the engine and observe if theres any gas mist coming out of injectors, if so make sure also that your getting spark at spark plugs.

take it to a dealership and have them hook it to the computer. it's the only way I know of.

The battery is a 12V car battery.

With the engine running, test the voltage of the battery using a voltmeter. You SHOULD be getting anywhere from 13.5 to 14.5 volts if the alternator is functioning properly. Turn on the headlights and rear window defroster and make sure you can hold the voltage level (you'll need someone to keep the engines at about 2000RPM's.

If the alternator isn't producing sufficient voltage, you either have a faulty alternator or the replacement was not connected properly.

No you were driving and it quit.and if it cranks it is turning over. check for spark at the spark plugs and also for fuel pressure at the injector rail.

if all the other electronic parts work such as lights and and horn then it's probably a starter selinoid!

Check the connections to the solenoid and to the starter.

It is very possible that you might have a blown head gasket. However, other causes of low/no compression could be a cracked head, a cracked piston, or burnt valves. ANOTHER ANSWER It depends on the way the compression is down. If it's low on two adjacent cylinders, it's probably a head gasket. If it's just one or more non-adjacent cylinders it could also be burned exhaust valves. If it's low on all cylinders it's probably a slipped timing chain/belt.

Possibly a neutral lockout switch, possibly a bad connection, possibly an ignition switch.

Use the spacers to change the pulley configuration.

The alternator pulley halves separates when you remove the large retaining nut at the center. More spacers between the pulley halves loosens the belt.

Fewer spacers between the pulley halves TIGHTEN the belt.

Keep the extra spacers under the large washer so you'll have them to adjust the NEXT belt.

Transitors

maybe under the front seats

In order to answer your question, I need more information such as when you turn the key what sounds do you hear eg: clicking, rubbing, grinding, arcing or nothing? When was the last time the vehicle was serviced, and what did they service? Three things need to happen when you turn the key and several switches need to checked in order for the firing sequences to happen. So the more you can tell me the better I can help you.

You need new wires, or distributor cap. Moisture can get into a cracked cap or cause wet wires where spark jumps from wire to wire, or wire to ground.

mine does that to but only once or twice a year idk what is wrong with it but i know i have to replace the batery every time !

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Could be a bad fuel pump.

That is highly unlikely. Earth's magnetic field prevents the effects of solar flares from coming close to the surface in all but the most severe instances.

Inside the fuel tank.

It sounds like the solenoid is working but the starter is not. Check the wires on the starter. Possibly the starter has gone bad.