Car Starting Problems

I have had the same problem with my teg. my mate has had the same problem with his prelude. I think it may be computer related. I have found that by turning the key very slowly just before it clicks seems to solve it. I don't undeestand why, but this works for me. This first started happening at about 240000kms Your problem is the solenoid in the starter motor. I had the same problem and got my starter reconditioned for $200au. starts first go every time now

1. Make sure you are getting fuel to the carb... 2. If you are getting fuel and spark to you spark plugs and the plugs are wet, You more than likely have a timing problem.

It could be the starter, keyswitch, neutral lockout switch, wiring connector or any of a number of other problems. Unfortunately you have to just track it down.

The relay could be connected wrong, the starter contact in the keyswitch could be bad in which case you'll need a new keyswitch, or the neutral lockout switch could be bad or adjusted wrong. Of course, it could also be a bad connection somewhere. Rather than just replace parts, always make certain that you find the bad component first.

Misfire is caused when a cylinder doesn't ignite its fuel mixture. Suspect a bad plug, coil, or wire. This will not be caused by a mass airflow sensor, that can cause a rough idle or bad fuel economy, but will not cause an individual cylinder to misfire.

Driving with a continuous misfire condition will eventually destroy your catalytic converter. If your check engine light is flashing you are doing serious damage to your cat converter.

hi. you should go under the steering columm and you should see a block box in there and just unhook all the wire but after unhooking them up you should see a relay conneted to your starter. unhook those wire from relay and connect wire going to starter. to check your starter wire connection go to bulldogsecurity.com. you can also text me in my phone i will gladly want to help you 862 222 6497

Yes, the valves can bend, or even damage or crack the piston. Reason is: when the cam stops rotating due to the broken timing belt the valves no longer go up and down but remain in one position (either up or down), but the crankshaft-driven pistons keep moving up and down, making hard contact with the valves, and thus the damage.

Bad batterry or defect in electronic or electrical circuits causing current drain from battery.

If you talk to the dealer nice sometimes they'll let you copy a page out of the service manual.

because the rain makes the roads wet and slippery which then the tires cant grip the the road properly

The engine needs compression, fuel and spark to run, you are missing one of those.

You need to go through a process of elimination. Obviously the car starts. When out of gear and idling does it keep running with your foot off the gas? If it stalls you have a fuel supply problem. If you determine that you don't have a fuel supply problem and hitting the brakes is somehow turning the ignition on and off you probably have either a loose ignition wire connection that the brake assembly and wiring is somehow shorting out in conjuction with the accelerator linkage. These kind of wiring issues can be frustrating and difficult to pinpoint. There's no real easy workaround to this. You have to spend the time examing the wiring for loose connections or bare spots in the wires that can create shorts.

CHECK YOUR NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH.(IF AUTOMATIC TRANS) OR CLUTCH START SWITCH(IF MANUAL TRANS). IF YOU TURN YOUR KEY AND NOTHING HAPPENS JUST THE DASH LIGHTS COME ON , IT MEANS THAT YOU HAVE AN OPEN IN THE STARTING CIRCUIT. FIRST TRY MOVING BACK AND FORWARD YOUR GEAR SHIFTER, IF THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH IS MIS ALIGNED MOVING THE SHIFTER SOMETIMES WORKS.(THEN TRY STARTING) IF NOTHING HAPPENS YOU MAY NEED TO CHECK THE CIRCUIT COMPONENTS.IGNITION SWITCH, BATTERY CONECTIONS(MAKE SURE THE TERMINALS ARE CLEAN AND THE CABLES ARE TIGHLY FITTED),STARTER WIRING,BAD GROUND.(ANTI THEFT DEVICES)

The transmission leak should not have affected the way the engine starts. Repairing the transmission leak should not have affected the way the engine starts. A new battery should only have IMPROVED the way the engine starts. If someone was not careful and allowed a small particle to get into the fuel line as they were re-connecting it, it could certainly block the injector and cause starting problems, especially if it's a throttle-body (single injector) injected engine.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info If your battery terminals are corroded they will allow some current to pass but when a big draw like the starter if applied the connection will be lost. Remove them and clean them thoroughly usind a wire brush on both the terminals and the connectors leaving fresh lead or copper on both sides of the connection. If the wires are corroded replacement may be necessary.

These engines as you probably know,start instantly and the glow plugs rarely activate unless it is very cold.Sounds more like air being drawn into the fuel system.Has it recently had a fuel filter change?Pipes may not be quite on.Had the water drain open?Been over rough ground,dislodged a pipe joint? Are you sure all four glow plugs are ok in the event of it being cold enough to need them,they are easy to test.

If you didn't put it back on right or maybe left something off like the rotor, sure.

if you have good battery and cable connections, the starter motor or starter relay is bad

It does not have a ballast resistor.

It does not have a ballast resistor.

The battery is dieing down and you should go and get a new battery or get your battery charged

The battery post positive terminal is where you connect the positive cable. Connect the negative cable to anyplace on the engine or chassis. Connect positive first and remove it last.

There is a black unlabeled button on the right of the steering wheel press in that button if it's not because your wheels are turned to far in one direction------------------

When you insert the key, turn the steering wheel to the left and right while gently trying to turn the key. If the wheel doesn't move that much, it means that the wheel lock is engaged. This happens on my Altima frequently, usually I just have to turn left and right and the key will unlock the wheel lock.

There is also a wear problem with the Transmission/Steering wheel interlock - sometimes the Transmission range selector handle does not fully engage at the upper most end of travel - there by not allowing the key to be disengaged - to check is very simple ---- Turn off vehicle, attempt to remove key, if key fails to turn- GENTLY push forward on the Transmission Selector Level to it's limit of travel & then try turning the key to the off position - it may take a time or two but my 1997 Altima does this occasionally & this is my work around..

It is possible if it is stuck open, but highly unlikely.

just lock the door with the key pad and unlock it with the key pad. get in and it should crank.

Do you have the SMG or the 6MT? In either case it is probably the car stalling and needing to restart.