Car Starting Problems

I don't know if you're saying you changed the key system to a starter system or the system wouldn't start but just clicks.

If its the latter, you may want to check for coolant in your cylinders by removing your spark plugs and spinning the flywheel. If any coolant comes out of the cylinders, then you don't have a starter system problem. The plenum on your Buick, (the plastic dome above the intake manifold/ the black rounded dome on top of the engine) may have wore a hole in itself due to friction and has pumped coolant into your intake manifold until it spills into your cylinders and makes them too full of coolant to spin through with the starter.

Again, this may be completely not the issue if you know for certain you haven't lost any coolant recently or know its a wiring problem. But this thing had me puzzled for two weeks until I took the plenum off so I figured I'd throw it out there.

Disconnect the - battery cable

Raise and support vehicle

Disconnect wiring harness at starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

it might of not been your starter to begin with. maybe a bad fuel pump

Sounds like a blown head gasket

i feel bad for you man, its located in between the back of the engine and the tranny in a small cut out on the top passenger side, two bolts 1/2inch if i recal from yesterday haha, but its 2 bolts, pop old out, new in, bolt it up and should be fine

The batterie cables are usually the easiest

Ha ha, i know this one backward and forward, It happened to my car. First off, check your oil, if there isn't any, then it probably seized due to lack of lubrication. Second, if you have a manual transmission, get it towed, and pop it into first gear, if the wheels lock up, its seized. If you don't have a manual, then if you can find it, find the crankshaft nut on the side of the engine with the belt. Find a breaker bar with the correct size socket, and try to turn it as much as you can. If it doesn't turn its most likely seized.

i had problems starting my megane it was like the battery was goin dead. it wouldn't start or would take a long time to get goin so i called AA.first AA man changed battery but still the same week later next AA man unbolted a thing called TDC (top dead center) and cleaned it no problems since

you need a new starter motor,

you shorted something. is there a wire grounding out somewhere?

No. My first guess is the fuel filter got plugged up from some stuff on the bottom of the gas tank. Try replacing it.

i had similar problem with 99 wrangler and if its the relay its located in the fuse box.

It may not be connected right.

Take ou starter off and have it tested could be that the brushes shorted out

There are three basic versions of the Mitubishi FTO 1.8, 2.0 V6 non- MIVEC and 2.0 V6 Mivec: 1.8 4 cylinder 16v. Year of manufacture 94-96. Model designation GS. VIN DE2A. This version of the FTO is fitted with a Mitsubishi manufactured alternator. Alternator output can vary dependent upon version fitted. 2.0 V6 24v non - MIVEC. Year of manufacture 94-96. Model designation GR. VIN DE3A. This version is generally fitted with a 2 pin alternator of Mitsubishi manufacture. Alternator output can vary dependent upon version fitted. Not interchangeable with post-97 vehicles. 2.0 V6 24v non - MIVEC. Year of manufacture 97 onwards, known as facelift model. Model designation GX. VIN DE3A. This version is generally fitted with a 2 pin alternator of Mitsubishi manufacture. Alternator output can vary dependent upon version fitted. Not interchangeable with pre-97 vehicles. 2.0 V6 24v MIVEC. Year of manufacture 94-96. Model designation GPX. VIN DE3A. This version is always fitted with a 4 pin alternator of Mitsubishi manufacture. Alternator output can vary dependent upon version fitted. Not interchangeable with post-97 vehicles. 2.0 V6 24v MIVEC. Year of manufacture 97 onwards, known as facelift model. Model designation GPX and GPvR. VIN DE3A. This version is always fitted with a 4 pin alternator of Mitsubishi manufacture. Alternator output can vary dependent upon version fitted. Not interchangeable with pre-97 vehicles.

It will not start ???????

umm i don't think that is possible?

Engine is out of time or the plug wires are installed incorrectly.

you either have an electric short somewhere so check all ur wires to make sure none of them are frayed, nicked or showing bare copper also check to make sure everything has a good connection. another thing is it could be that you have a bad solenoid and need it replaced

most likely tha starter is bad or the power to the starter is bad

Did you try jumping it?

Ok. The Monte Carlo DOES NOT NEED JUMPED! Like stated above the LIGHTS/RADIO/EVERYTHING Turns on just fine. Battery is fine, We've tested the starter and wiring, battery connections are fine. It starts just fine any other time. Once in awhile you turn the key and it doesn't do anything except for turn on lights/radio/etc....It has to be something in the ignition. Neways I think we've figured it out.

Does your ignition key have the little black chip in it? If so make sure the metal contacts on both sides are clean and before you put key in ignition ensure chip is centered in key. GM made a security feature to make it more dificult for a car thief to start engine, and your car's computer uses the value of the resistor inside the little black chip in key to ensure it is the proper key for the car.

Yeah it has that chip in the key mold and the ignition apparently. We are thinking that's the entire problem. I don't know how to ensure it's centered though.

I'm not sure what year they switched the style of key, but I'm referring to if there is the chip built into the metal part of the key not the rubber handle (where you can see the chip). It was somewhere around your cars year they switched it. Also check if there is power going to the starter relay next time it happens, you can also swap it with another relay to check the relay. And check if there is power going to the S-terminal on starter if the relay functions properly.

That's your silanoid.. if you follow the + battery wire it leads you there, a lot of newer cars have it located inside the starter.. but that is usually a sign you need more power, try chargeing the battery or jumping starting it.. also make sure your cables are hooked to the battery tightly and the battery nipples and the termanals that hook 2 them are clean and shiny where they touch together.

The clicking noise could also be coming from your exhaust system. Loose clamps or a hole in your system could be causing the noise. You may have to repair or replace your exhaust system. You can get advice on the same from magnaflow exhaust systems.

Bad fuel pump? Possible bad relay under driver side dash; third one back from front of dash; I had problem where engine would sometimes crank but not start and could not hear fuel pump energize when key was turned on.

You need all the cranking amps your battery can supply in cold weather. Check your battery connections, take them off and clean them and reinstall and tighten. You can use dilectric grease to keep them from corroding. Once you have them reinstalled, and TIGHT, then try to crank it over in cold weather. If it still won't crank then your battery has a weak cell and is probably on it's way out. Make sure you have a fully charged battery when you are trying to start it. Warm weather does not take as many crankign amps from your battery so that is why it is fine then and not in cold weather Also check your automatic choke or throttle body position, the flap should be almost closed when starting in cold weather, as a test disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body and cover the opening with your hand while someone turns the engine over, if it fires right up then that is the problem, never use the gas pedal when starting cold it defeats the purpose, you need to starve the engine for air when starting in cold weather.

check for clogged fuel filter, incorrect or improperly gapped spark plugs, or ignition timing