Car Starting Problems

This is America and people sue over everything, unfortunately. Why not just turn in the car. YOu signed an agreement and reneged on that agreement so be a big person and turn it in. Then you dont have to look over your shoulder everyday. Yes, they can, turn it over to the prosecutors office, then you will owe even more money because they will sue you for the cost of the PI and for the cost of court fees and any extra charges they incur from tracking the car down. Take care of this now and you will be better off.

Overheating will blow the head gasket and/or warp the cylinder head. In the worst scenario, the cylinder head probably cracked and allowing water to get into the piston(s) which is probably why the vehicle won't start. If you are going to do the work yourself, be sure and take the cylinder head to a machine shop and have it pressure tested for leaks and also have it resurfaced.

Visit a gas station to get it fixed.

Not enough fuel is reaching the throttle body, check your fuel pressure it may be your pump going out.

ok solved the prob myself it was the ignition barrel kaput so now starting with screw driver lol , should cost about ten quid from scrappy or 50 ish brand new

check for spark

If it smokes at startup only, the valve seals are probably leaking. If it's not smoking too bad, you're ok, but the problem will get worse in time. The cylinder head will need to be removed in order to replace the seals, and while it's removed, you might want to get the valves grinded and the head surfaced.

For a 7.3L DI some smoke is acceptable but when it starts to smell really strong of un-burnt fuel or burning oil typically the valve guide seals are NOT a problem on these models. Each of the 8 injectors have a series of large o'rings which seal the injector into the injector cup. These o'rings seal to the head and seperate oil from fuel and direct it to the correct area of the injector. Over time these o'rings become very brittle and either oil or fuel is seeping past the o'rings and entering the combustion chamber slowly but surely and you have all 8 of them doing this a little then you get the smoke and bad smells from the exhaust. I am very certain this is your problem you will need to remove all the injectors and replace all the old injector o'rings. You can get them at your local ford dealer. I've done this repair many,many times with success. good luck

Sounds like starter solenoid needs to be replaced

I have the same problem with no codes I'm going towards the ECT sensor ..My plugs are wet gas fouled

catalytic converter is probably clogged

Yes. If you don't know what you are doing you might mess things up so that you won't be able to get the car to the shop. If you want to try, then this is the way to go about it. First thimg that you must do is to measure the resistance in that little chip in the upper part of the key, then you have to go to Radio Shack and buy a resistor with the same rating. The best thing to do is to solder the resistor in place but if you are not sure about that then make sure that you buy connectors, when you have all of the parts. You then remove the lower steering column cover you should then see two wires that are molded together with a plug about 18 inches from the cylinder where you insert the key (this is not actually the ignition switch). The wires that you are looking for are stiffer than the other wires under the dash if you have a problem finding the correct wires then you can go to the local public library and find the correct wiring diagrams (remember to take some change with you so you can make a copy of the correct page). I have 25 years experience in auto repair.

The pair of two wires under the column are often inside a thicker orange colored jacket that insulates them. Be sure to plan ahead so that the spot along the wires that you splice in the resistor will be in an area with the least amount of interference from other moving parts or your legs when getting in and out of car. If this delicate connection gets bumped or comes apart, your car wont start or wont stay running because the computer will shut down your injectors. A good rule to remember is to watch the yellow SECURITY light when you first turn on the ignition to start the car. It should go right back off. If it does not, you have to correct the problem and remember to wait 3 minutes between start attempts, even if you fixed the problem sooner.

All you have to do to save yourself some trouble is go to a car audio and security shop around your house and ask the main alarm installer there to draw you a diagram on how to bypass the key on your car. most likely he will be able to give you a copy of such diagram and he can also give you the part you will need to do the job. This will cost you no more the 30 bucks or so.

i just had a similar problem well after changing fuel filter,plugs,wires,pcv valve map sensor(all was not the problem)i found it to be the crankshaft position sensor,changed it and the car runs like new hope this helps

I'm going to try to answer this question, even though you didn't offer a lot of information. If the car starts up cold all the time, but you have problems after its been running for a while, it may be a small valve next to the fuel pump and fuel filter underneath the car. When you ask the parts guy at MB, he'll know exactly what it is...it's a typical service item. You might want to check the last time you replaced the fuel filter too. And check the gas cap...make sure its seal is intact...these systems run on pressure... Does the engine crank with enough power? If not, check your battery. If the battery is good, check your alternator's output...these alternator's are putting out about 75 watts. Have you checked your fuel lines? You might want to buy a good fuel/carb cleaner to add to your gas tank....it will help get rid of any water that might have accumulated. A good test for water in the tank is poor performance while passing another car, or when you drive up hill...the car will feel like its running on 4 cylinders. When the car is hard starting, look at the exhaust when it finally starts. If you see a bunch of heavy black smoke coming out of the exhaust...you might have a fuel distributor problem too...and that's going to cost. Those are basic checks....if the above doesn't fit your problems...you'll need to get a tech involved. Did you happen to notice all that plumbing underneath the air cleaner? There are about 4 valves that regulate fuel...a slide control, cold start valve, etc. it could be one of those too.

i just bought a red 92 metro with that problem too. we took a compression check of cylinders and found 2 that were gone, took head off and found #1&3 exhaust valve burned through and damaged. i replaced all 3 exhaust valved and regrounded all the valves in place. it runs fine. check your compression first, if good get back to me.

check your manual for your car but the standard for most cars is 32 psi (pounds per square inch)

I don't know for sure, but I have the same issue (2004 Endeavor LS). I have asked a mechanic this and the only answer i got was that it could be an exhaust leak. I haven't actually got it looked at, have you found out anything new?

it is most likely your fuel pump

Under the Throttle Body

It very well could be that one of more of your cells in the battery is dead and so the battery will not hold a charge anymore. Even if your charging system is working properly, the battery still won't hold a charge no matter how long you charge it. If you've charged your battery numerous times or if it's been drained numerous times (for example, left the lights on like I do all the time), you may need to replace it with a new battery.

Check the ECC and fuel pump relays

There's also the crankshaft position sensor mounted on the drivers side / top of the transmission housing. Some auto parts stores carry them, some don't. The voltage connector is on top of the intake manifold, near the firewall. Also check the voltage to the ignition coil.

maybe an ECU problem

Replace the ECU.

Try taking battery terminal off car and back on again it worked for me with crashed Clio

If you mean you did a timing 'belt' change and still wont start, I tend to think your previous one broke ? If this is the case, its more than likely you have bent valves .. so do a compression test. If you didnt have a broken cam belt, recheck your timing marks and be sure you are not 108 degrees out