Car Starting Problems

chech catalyc converter or muffer. check also o2 sensor or egr valve.

Will it crank? If not, you may have thrown a rod.

Hi, THE SOLENOID IS THE TOP SECTION OF YOUR STARTER MOTOR ASSEMBLY, IT'S ALL ONE PIECE.

Engine seized?

Weak battery?

Loose or corroded battery cables?

Bad starter?

Bad starter solenoid?

In general, if the alternator is bad, then the battery becomes discharged and does not have the energy to crank the engine. The starter could also be bad, possibly damaged by the high current resulting from cranking with low voltage. That's a "bad news - bad news" situation, as high crank current can also damage the battery. Check for plate buckling, often seen as expansion of the battery case." To isolate this, you need to charge the battery with an external charger. Starting from a fully charged battery, you will quickly see if there is a battery or starter problem, or a problem with the control circuitry. Then, with the engine running, you check the charging voltage and current. The voltage should be between 13.5V and 14.5V. If it is low, you need to consider alternator or regulator, or shorted cell in the battery. See below for charging current. It is also possible that the regulator circuit is at fault, maybe caused by a blown fuse. If all looks good, you need to consider the age of the battery and its ability to hold a charge. It is also possible that a system load, such as a light being on, is draining the battery. Don't forget to check unexpected lights, such as glove box, trunk, and engine compartment. Some of these tests, charging and standby voltage, can be measured with an ordinary voltmeter, and battery charge state can be assessed by measuring the electrolyte's specific gravity. Other tests, such as crank and charge current, battery hold time, etc. are more involved and require specific equipment.

You probably blew your main fuse such as: ignition, main fuse, etc. check for blown fuses one by one underneath your dash and under your hood! Its always a good idea to disconnect your battery when ever working in the vicinity of electrical components!

could be that your wires are crossing to your timing advanse fast idle line. check the volts on the fuel shutoff cyliniod on the fuel pump(front one,back one is the timing advance)after it quits. also try leaving the key on pull the fuel shutoff then put it on you will hear it click. if it does not and it has power ,bad cylinoid. or the fuel return lines are plugged. pull the fuel line off the fuel pump stick air at 10psi blow into the line to the tank (not the pump)youshould hear bubles in the tank shortly. if not your lines are plugged or tank changer problems (bypass) . the shutoff cyliniod blocks the return line to shut the engine off (when it has no power)or it doesn"t work

your alternator is bad

There is no such thing as a crank fuse. A starting circuit consists of the battery, ignition switch, neutral safety switch or clutch switch, the solenoid and the starter.First check to see if the cable ends at the battery are clean and most of all tight. Turn the key to start while shifting from park to neutral. If it tries to turn over then the neutral safety switch is bad. If all fails then take it to a repair shop.

Most likely your steering lock is engaged. If you try to move the wheel right to left (or vice versa) while trying to turn the key it will work and turn.

Sincerely,

Bora

You can order a new engine wiring harness for a 92 Cavalier 3.1 at auto part stores. You can also check with a certified dealer.

I have 1989 maz truck won't start either. there are so many little thing to consider

the carb is the first thing I'd look at after you trace the spark. good luck

First, I would check the oil and coolant to make sure neither one is outdated. Look for water in your oil and check to see how black and gritty it is. Then, probably just hook jumper cables up to it (if it doesn't start by itself) and it should start. I would let it run for several minutes to let the engine relubricate itself.

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY CONTOUR AND IT ENDED UP BEING THAT THE FUEL INJECTORS WERE LEAKING DOWN INTO MY CYLINDER THEREFOR "FLOODING IT OUT"

The Manufacturer

I just had the same problem. What I have found out is that it could be one of a few things. (1) first check your spark plugs. (2) check your fuel pressure, if you are not getting the correct pressures you may need a new fuel filter. (3) if your fuel filter is clean then you will need to replace your fuel pump. I hope that this will fix your current problem The anti-theft feature, when activated (theoretically when anyone attempts to start the car without the proper key) cuts off the fuel flow after 3 seconds, causing the car to start fine, but then die. I had a similar problem in my 96 gt, try unpluging the cars computer(underneath the glove compartment) and pluging it back up. Then try starting the car again.

The oil pressure indicator is just that. It shows that oil PRESSURE inside the oil journals of the engine is up to the proper level. The oil is pressurized with a mechanical pump, and the oil is pumped through the engine. The pressure is necessary to keep bearings, hydraulic lifters and sometimes timing chain adjusters functioning properly. When the engine is not physically turning, there will be no oil pressure because the pump is not running, so it's perfectly normal and expected that there is no oil pressure when you first turn on the key. Or, in layman's terms, it means your "Oil" light is still working and your Jeep has enough oil in it.....

Odds are a fuel system problem. Probably dirty fuel injector(s). Try using fuel injector cleaner in the next few fuel fill ups. May clear problem up and not expensive.

I believe that by 98 the trucks were running a distributorless ignition system. They are therefore basically factory pre set.

Is new fuel pump working? If so turn key to "On" position without starting car for about 5 sec. to prime pump and lines - Do this twice and then try to start Is new fuel pump working? If so turn key to "On" position without starting car for about 5 sec. to prime pump and lines - Do this twice and then try to start

Weak battery?
Bad starter?
Timing set too far advanced?

Because the land over is in "crash mode" a lock down anti theft service, this must be reset using a land over computer at any land rover authorized service center.

There is most likely something in the gas tank. When the car starts the fuel pump starts sucking in fuel and when the trash gets to it the gas will not be able to flow through the clogged pump so the car stalls. When it stalls the fuel pump stops suction and the trash comes out allowing it to start again.

Most likely it has nothing at all to do with the transmission. 99% of "hard cold starts " has to due with the battery. Try cleaning the terminals, starter and relay/solenoid connections, and if you still have the problem. It's time for a new battery. Exceptions; if you live in EXTREMELY cold climate's, like Alaska, you may need a electric cord to the engine block to prevent the oil from getting too thick.