Car Starting Problems

Wear several thin layers and a waterproof top layer.

It is called a Neutral Safety Switch.

I use a stiff wire brush to clean them, then put a thin coat of Vaseline on them to help prevent future corrosion.

Check for spark at the plugs. Check to see if there is fuel pressure. If both of these are ok check ignition timing.

Check following in order:

1. Check battery voltage. It should be AT LEAST 12V across teminals.

2.Check battery terminals for corrosion,loose cable to clamp connections and make shure clamp to battery connections are clean and tight.

3.Check starter relay terminals.Make shure all connections are tight.

Located (usually) on fenderwell near the battery.Follow positive(+)cable from battery.

4.Check terminal connection at the starter.Usually located on lower half of engine next to oil pan,at rear on passenger side.(Follow positive cable from starter relay to starter)

5.Check for corrosion on inside of battery cables.(White,powdery or green in color)

Replace any affected cables.

6.Possible faulty starter relay.

Replace relay.

7.Possible faulty starter.

Replace starter.

There are several relays in that area and any one of them could be engaging. It's not possible to tell you which is causing the problem or in fact if that is even the problem. You'll need to track down the component that is draining the battery, and you can do that by disconnecting individual circuits.

To start, try removing a fuse that controls something that you suspect, then reconnect the battery, see if the sound comes back.

Alternatively, have someone connect and disconnect the battery while you try to isolate the source of the sound.

Often automotive diagnostics is strictly trial-and-error, and you'll just need to keep searching. I can only say that there are 3 relays at that spot, as above the a/c relay, the fuel pump relay, and if the car is 94 and later, there will be another relay for the electric cooling fan. The fan relay is the most likely suspect because it will run without the key being on, and if is malfunctioning, it will drain your battery. Before you run out and buy anything, they, (auto zone) will test it , the relay or relays, replace the one or how many may have gone south on you. jr

front passenger side of the transmission under the vehicle engine/trans. close to the front passenger side front tire.

i just went through my sons 77 280z and replaced the fuel pump and i checked fuel pressure and it ran for a minute and started sputtering and shuts off the pressure dropped to 15 psi and i started and it took off did the same thing so i dropped the fuel tank and drained out the gas and let it dry out and got some gas in a 5 gallon gas jug and stuck the hose and started it ran good with good pressure so i went and ran 130psi out of my tank and puff the dust flew out so i went and put the tank back in after i shot air into it few times and it runs with good pressure so now is the idle it is to high so i hope this helps.

The ignition tumbler will not turn and you will not be able to start the car.

Ignition switch may be defective.

Underneath the battery side of the truck. Youll see the battery wires hooked up to it...

It could, along with dozens of other possibilities.

IF no fuel pressure and no spark first thing in the day when cold and the relays start clicking,

THEN replace the (PCM/ECM) Powertrain Computer Module AKA Engine Computer Module

THEN the crankshaft sensor if needed.

let me know how it turns out,

MySpace/TimFrentz

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check the ignition switch and check the electronic fuel pump

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WHAT DID YOU FIND OUT ABOUT THIS PROBLEM? I AM HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH A 94 DODGE RAM VAN. Please let me know. I get an error code 54 and 45 on the computer. 45 Is "open or short in transmission overdrive solenoid" which can be caused by the precursor engine error 54.

In most Dodges, especially my 94' Dodge Ram Van 3.9ltr, the code 54 is fuel sync related. Primarily related to a fuel, cam or crank sensor. My problem is still unresolved or confirmed by a solution so I can not provide a resolution but follow me on mySpace/TimFrentz or Facebook and I will share my final resolution with you when available.

My problem: When I turn my ignition on I have to wait several seconds for the fuel relay to click and then stop clicking. This signifies a shortage of power in the fuel pressure wiring systems. On a warm day this seams to only take seconds but on a day below 40 degrees it seems to take as long as 30 minutes and it doesn't seem to start clicking until I tap the relay or try to turn over the vehicle several times to build current or fuel pressure. What makes this issue even harder to diagnose is that the problem is also keeping the distributor from sparking. So far I have replaced the Crank Sensor, Distrbutor Cap/Rotar/Wires/Plugs, battery w/ 900crank amps, cleaned the negative contacts, checked fuses, fuel filter and pump, and changed oil/filter. I'm now researching the possibility of it being caused by an ignition system component.

*After each thing you try, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes so the computer reset's.

Let me know your progress: mySpace/TimFrentz

The starter is usually located on the passenger of the vehicle, under and to the rear of the engine where it bolts to the flywheel housing. Steps for changing a starter: (1) disconnect the negative cable at the battery; (2) raise the vehicle and put jackstands under it for support (3) block the rear tires to keep vehicle from rolling backwards; (4) under the vehicle, disconnect the red cable and the black wire that connect to the starter solenoid; (5) unbolt and remove the two bolts that attach the starter to the flywheel housing; (6) pull starter out. Installation is reverse. Good luck...

May require a new ignition barrel. The 106 is known for problems with the ignition barrel. Looking at a bill of �60 - �200 depending on where you go and the type of immobilizer used on the car.

under the dash is a toggle switch that was installed with the alarm, *under the drivers side of the dash you need to put the key in turn it forward not on but forward and turn the toggle switch the other way, if no toggle do the same with the key and hold the alarm button down on the dash, sometimes the light that flashes is a switch....

If the power goes off to everything when you hear the click it could be a corroded battery terminal. If lights just dim a little, it could be the starter or any of a number of other problems. If the lights dim a LOT, you might need a new battery. See if it starts when you connect jumper cables from a known good battery. If you haven't used jumber cables before, read and follow directions.

Try banging on the starter with a hammer from underneath while someone else repeatedly turns the key to start making the click. Your starters internal bushings and bearings are likely worn out and are not allowing motor rotation when turning the key. This problem is common after driving in the rain and/ or deep water.

It could be your fuseable like if... If you have lost all power and your battery is fine you can try two things: one you can turn the ignition switch and them your transmission to neutral possition and try starting it then. if this works nothing is wrong with your transmission just a chip or wiering in it the cuts power to start. the other thing is to shake the cable that runs from the battery to the starter that might work. If you hear a click and hum, but no turning of the engine, then that's the starter. Knock on it lightly with a wrench (look for two large can-like things mounted next to each other under the Jeep, just in front of the passenger set.) This will work for now, but it should be replaced.

A. DTC P0744 Indicates a malfunction in the A/T Torque Converter Control (TCC) Signal circuit. This malfunction is detected when the automatic transmission does not shift into fourth gear position or the torque converter clutch does not lock up as instructed by the Automatic Transmission Control (ATC) unit. This is not caused by an electrical malfunction, circuits open or shorted, but by a mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking, improper solenoid valve operation, malfunctioning oil pump or torque converter clutch, etc. Replacing the TCC solenoid should fix the problem. Or you can just leave it alone. If you do a lot of highway driving you may notice a decrease in fuel economy. Of course the light will come on every time the TCC solenoid is actuated and will stay on until you turn the key OFF again. If you do replace it, the light will not come back on and after 50 key starts will erase from the PCM memory. A bad TCC solenoid will only effect TCC lockup. It will not effect transmission shifting in general.

Look above the fuse cluster behind the left kick panel.