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Car Starting Problems
Some of the common car starting problems stem from a discharged battery, a bad fuel pump (or no fuel), a weakened starter motor, or a broken electrical connection. Checking each part will help troubleshoot why the car won’t start.
5,524 Questions
Having intermiten problems with the starter on a 1990 jettaworks when it wants to?
You need a new starter
Yes, and I would like to know where the fuel pump is located.
How do you remove 1986 240 starter?
You have to lift the car and look from underneath. There are 2 bolts that go thru the bellhousing and connect to the starter. Locate the starter (on Left Hand drive the starter is on the driver side). The 2 bolts are 19mm. The bottom bolt is easier to get out, the top one will require a long extension on the racthet and perhaps an impact gun. Try to loosen with a breaker bar if you have one.
Start with a fuel pressure test. Pump running with engine off you should have 60-66 max PSI. Turn the pump off, pressure will drop to aprox 52 then it should hold.
Remove a spark plug (any one will do), and lay it somewhere on the engine where you or a buddy can see it (not near that puddle of gasoline, though, thank you very much). Crank the engine. If you see a nice bright spark (believe me, you won't miss it if it's there) then you have a fuel delivery problem. If you see no spark, you have an ignition problem. Be sure to replace the spark plug after this test.
You own a 1990 Montero ls for some reason it wont start its cranking over but won't start any ideas?
check for spark. check for fuel pressure.
What is the distributor in the ignition system?
The distributor in the ignition system of an internal combustion engine is a device which routes the high voltage in the correct firing order to the spark plugs.
It consists of a rotating arm or rotor inside the distributor cap, on top of the distributor shaft, but insulated from it and the body of the vehicle ("earth"). The metal part of the rotor contacts the central high voltage cable from the coil via a spring loaded carbon brush. The metal part of the rotor arm passes close to (but does not touch) the output contacts which connect via high tension cables to the spark plug of each cylinder. As the rotor spins within the distributor, electrical current is able to jump the small gaps created between the rotor arm and the contacts due to the high voltage created by the ignition coil.
The distributor shaft has a cam that operates the contact breaker. Opening the points causes a high induction voltage in the system's ignition coil.
The distributor also houses the centrifugal advance unit: a set of hinged weights attached to the distributor shaft, that cause the breaker points mounting plate to slightly rotate and advance the spark timing with higher engine rpm. In addition, the distributor has a vacuum advance unit that advances the timing even further as a function of the vacuum in the inlet manifold. Usually there is also a capacitor attached to the distributor. The capacitor is connected parallel to the breaker points, to suppress sparking and prevent wear of the points.
Around the 1970s the primary breaker points were largely replaced with Hall effect sensors. As this is a non-contacting device and the primary circuit is controlled by solid state electronics, a great amount of maintenance in point adjustment and replacement was eliminated. This also eliminates any problem with breaker follower or cam wear, and by eliminating a side load extends distributor shaft bearing life. The remaining secondary (high voltage) circuit was as described above, using a single coil and a rotary distributor.
Distributor capsThese are used in automobile engine to cover the distributor and its internal rotor. The rotor switches a high sparking voltage to the spark plugs so that these fire in correct sequence.The distributor cap is a prime example of a component that eventually succumbs to heat and vibration. But even if its bakelite housing has not broken or cracked, carbon deposits and eroded metal terminals can cause distributor-cap failure. However it is a fairly easy and inexpensive part to replace.
The distributor cap has one post for each cylinder and in points ignition systems there is a central post for the coil voltage coming into the distributor. In HEI (High Energy Ignition) systems where there is not a central post, the ignition coil sits on top of the distributor. On the inside of the cap there is a terminal that corresponds to each post and the plug terminals are arranged around the circumference of the cap according to the firing order in order to send the secondary voltage to the proper spark plug at the right time.
The "rotor" head is attached to the top of the distributor shaft which is driven by a gear on the engine's camshaft and thus synchronized to it. This rotor is pressed against a carbon brush on the center terminal of the distributor cap which connects to the ignition coil either through the top and wired directly to the coil in HEI systems; or via the center terminal in points ignition systems and remotely connected to the coil. The rotor is constructed such that the center tab is electrically connected to its outer edge so the voltage coming in to the center post will travel through the carbon point to the outer edge of the rotor. As the camshaft rotates, the rotor spins and its outer edge passes each of the internal plug terminals to fire each spark plug.
Direct ignitionModern engine designs are tending to do away with the distributor and coil, instead performing the distribution function in the primary circuit electronically and applying the primary (low-voltage) pulse to individual coils on top of each spark plug (Direct Ignition or coil-on-plug). This avoids the need to switch very high voltages, which is very often a source of trouble, especially in damp conditions. AnswerThe distributor is the part that takes the voltage from the coil and turn it into a pulsed spark sending it out to the cylinders in sequential order. It is the part on the car that has all the spark plug wires coming out of it. AnswerIt is a rotory switch that connects the high-voltage ouput of the ignition coil to the correct spark plug according to the firing order. It is typically driven by a gear on the camshaft so that it rotates at half engine speed.Most modern engines do not have distributors, instead they have a separate ignition coil for each spark plug.
Could a fuel pump relay switch cause car not to start?
Yes; if your fuel pump relay fails you will not get fuel to your motor and your vehicle will not start.
What is the best way to dress for an outdoor trip in cold weather?
Wear several thin layers and a waterproof top layer.
What is the name of the switch that allows a car to be started in Park or Neutral only?
It is called a Neutral Safety Switch.
I use a stiff wire brush to clean them, then put a thin coat of Vaseline on them to help prevent future corrosion.
Why wont a 97 eclipse turn over?
Multiple causes:
- dead battery
- starter motor problems
- engine siezed
Firstly is your battery dead? Does it try to turn over, make a click, or does it do nothing? How often do you get or do oil changes, filter changes and other required standard maintenance? Does it have a timing belt or a timing chain?
Check the battery first and don't forget the terminals for corrosive acid (the things the battery is plugged into). Check spark plugs, spark plug wires, (some cars have coil packs but I don't think they shouldn't go bad), distributor position if applicable (AKA timing), check the distributor cap for cracks or other damage, test coil/coil wire, check fused [located usually under the dash somewhere most often under steering wheel area], check relays and fuses under the hood.
More than likely it is either your spark plugs or wires or both: especially if you never have the oil & oil filter changed. Which you should do every couple thousand miles or whatever your owners manual says. Standard maintenance is a must for ANY car to last.
96 Grand Am turns over but won't start?
Check for spark at the plugs. Check to see if there is fuel pressure. If both of these are ok check ignition timing.
What is wrong with my Ford F-150 that when you turn the key it just makes a clicking noise?
Check following in order:
1. Check battery voltage. It should be AT LEAST 12V across teminals.
2.Check battery terminals for corrosion,loose cable to clamp connections and make shure clamp to battery connections are clean and tight.
3.Check starter relay terminals.Make shure all connections are tight.
Located (usually) on fenderwell near the battery.Follow positive(+)cable from battery.
4.Check terminal connection at the starter.Usually located on lower half of engine next to oil pan,at rear on passenger side.(Follow positive cable from starter relay to starter)
5.Check for corrosion on inside of battery cables.(White,powdery or green in color)
Replace any affected cables.
6.Possible faulty starter relay.
Replace relay.
7.Possible faulty starter.
Replace starter.
There are several relays in that area and any one of them could be engaging. It's not possible to tell you which is causing the problem or in fact if that is even the problem. You'll need to track down the component that is draining the battery, and you can do that by disconnecting individual circuits.
To start, try removing a fuse that controls something that you suspect, then reconnect the battery, see if the sound comes back.
Alternatively, have someone connect and disconnect the battery while you try to isolate the source of the sound.
Often automotive diagnostics is strictly trial-and-error, and you'll just need to keep searching. I can only say that there are 3 relays at that spot, as above the a/c relay, the fuel pump relay, and if the car is 94 and later, there will be another relay for the electric cooling fan. The fan relay is the most likely suspect because it will run without the key being on, and if is malfunctioning, it will drain your battery. Before you run out and buy anything, they, (auto zone) will test it , the relay or relays, replace the one or how many may have gone south on you. jr
Where is the starter on your 1996 Tahoe?
front passenger side of the transmission under the vehicle engine/trans. close to the front passenger side front tire.
i just went through my sons 77 280z and replaced the fuel pump and i checked fuel pressure and it ran for a minute and started sputtering and shuts off the pressure dropped to 15 psi and i started and it took off did the same thing so i dropped the fuel tank and drained out the gas and let it dry out and got some gas in a 5 gallon gas jug and stuck the hose and started it ran good with good pressure so i went and ran 130psi out of my tank and puff the dust flew out so i went and put the tank back in after i shot air into it few times and it runs with good pressure so now is the idle it is to high so i hope this helps.
What happens if you try to start a impala with the wrong key?
The ignition tumbler will not turn and you will not be able to start the car.
Ignition switch may be defective.
While I don't know what is wrong my altima does this on occation and the only thing I know is to put the car in neutral try and start the car then put it back in park try to start and continue to do this until it turns over at the most it takes 4 tries
Also, if you have an apmlifier hooked up to the battery, this could be draining the alternator. If this is the case you might want to invest in a heavy duty battery to support the amp. this best kind are Optima, that's the kind I have. If you don't have an amp, check the connection of the terminals to their cables, they have to be very tight, and if they are tight, check your alternator
AnswerYour alarm system could be triggering. Make sure the alarm fuse and relay is good. It can disable the starter, but everything else on the car will work. Very frustrating!
To reset the alarm, close your doors, lock the car with the key, and then unlock it twice with the key.
Where is the starter on a 2004 f-150?
Underneath the battery side of the truck. Youll see the battery wires hooked up to it...
IF no fuel pressure and no spark first thing in the day when cold and the relays start clicking,
THEN replace the (PCM/ECM) Powertrain Computer Module AKA Engine Computer Module
THEN the crankshaft sensor if needed.
let me know how it turns out,
MySpace/TimFrentz
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check the ignition switch and check the electronic fuel pump
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WHAT DID YOU FIND OUT ABOUT THIS PROBLEM? I AM HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH A 94 DODGE RAM VAN. Please let me know. I get an error code 54 and 45 on the computer. 45 Is "open or short in transmission overdrive solenoid" which can be caused by the precursor engine error 54.
In most Dodges, especially my 94' Dodge Ram Van 3.9ltr, the code 54 is fuel sync related. Primarily related to a fuel, cam or crank sensor. My problem is still unresolved or confirmed by a solution so I can not provide a resolution but follow me on mySpace/TimFrentz or Facebook and I will share my final resolution with you when available.
My problem: When I turn my ignition on I have to wait several seconds for the fuel relay to click and then stop clicking. This signifies a shortage of power in the fuel pressure wiring systems. On a warm day this seams to only take seconds but on a day below 40 degrees it seems to take as long as 30 minutes and it doesn't seem to start clicking until I tap the relay or try to turn over the vehicle several times to build current or fuel pressure. What makes this issue even harder to diagnose is that the problem is also keeping the distributor from sparking. So far I have replaced the Crank Sensor, Distrbutor Cap/Rotar/Wires/Plugs, battery w/ 900crank amps, cleaned the negative contacts, checked fuses, fuel filter and pump, and changed oil/filter. I'm now researching the possibility of it being caused by an ignition system component.
*After each thing you try, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes so the computer reset's.
Let me know your progress: mySpace/TimFrentz
The starter is usually located on the passenger of the vehicle, under and to the rear of the engine where it bolts to the flywheel housing. Steps for changing a starter: (1) disconnect the negative cable at the battery; (2) raise the vehicle and put jackstands under it for support (3) block the rear tires to keep vehicle from rolling backwards; (4) under the vehicle, disconnect the red cable and the black wire that connect to the starter solenoid; (5) unbolt and remove the two bolts that attach the starter to the flywheel housing; (6) pull starter out. Installation is reverse. Good luck...
