Car Starting Problems

Underneath the battery side of the truck. Youll see the battery wires hooked up to it...

It could, along with dozens of other possibilities.

IF no fuel pressure and no spark first thing in the day when cold and the relays start clicking,

THEN replace the (PCM/ECM) Powertrain Computer Module AKA Engine Computer Module

THEN the crankshaft sensor if needed.

let me know how it turns out,

MySpace/TimFrentz

------------------------------

check the ignition switch and check the electronic fuel pump

-------------------------------------

WHAT DID YOU FIND OUT ABOUT THIS PROBLEM? I AM HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH A 94 DODGE RAM VAN. Please let me know. I get an error code 54 and 45 on the computer. 45 Is "open or short in transmission overdrive solenoid" which can be caused by the precursor engine error 54.

In most Dodges, especially my 94' Dodge Ram Van 3.9ltr, the code 54 is fuel sync related. Primarily related to a fuel, cam or crank sensor. My problem is still unresolved or confirmed by a solution so I can not provide a resolution but follow me on mySpace/TimFrentz or Facebook and I will share my final resolution with you when available.

My problem: When I turn my ignition on I have to wait several seconds for the fuel relay to click and then stop clicking. This signifies a shortage of power in the fuel pressure wiring systems. On a warm day this seams to only take seconds but on a day below 40 degrees it seems to take as long as 30 minutes and it doesn't seem to start clicking until I tap the relay or try to turn over the vehicle several times to build current or fuel pressure. What makes this issue even harder to diagnose is that the problem is also keeping the distributor from sparking. So far I have replaced the Crank Sensor, Distrbutor Cap/Rotar/Wires/Plugs, battery w/ 900crank amps, cleaned the negative contacts, checked fuses, fuel filter and pump, and changed oil/filter. I'm now researching the possibility of it being caused by an ignition system component.

*After each thing you try, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes so the computer reset's.

Let me know your progress: mySpace/TimFrentz

The starter is usually located on the passenger of the vehicle, under and to the rear of the engine where it bolts to the flywheel housing. Steps for changing a starter: (1) disconnect the negative cable at the battery; (2) raise the vehicle and put jackstands under it for support (3) block the rear tires to keep vehicle from rolling backwards; (4) under the vehicle, disconnect the red cable and the black wire that connect to the starter solenoid; (5) unbolt and remove the two bolts that attach the starter to the flywheel housing; (6) pull starter out. Installation is reverse. Good luck...

May require a new ignition barrel. The 106 is known for problems with the ignition barrel. Looking at a bill of �60 - �200 depending on where you go and the type of immobilizer used on the car.

under the dash is a toggle switch that was installed with the alarm, *under the drivers side of the dash you need to put the key in turn it forward not on but forward and turn the toggle switch the other way, if no toggle do the same with the key and hold the alarm button down on the dash, sometimes the light that flashes is a switch....

If the power goes off to everything when you hear the click it could be a corroded battery terminal. If lights just dim a little, it could be the starter or any of a number of other problems. If the lights dim a LOT, you might need a new battery. See if it starts when you connect jumper cables from a known good battery. If you haven't used jumber cables before, read and follow directions.

Try banging on the starter with a hammer from underneath while someone else repeatedly turns the key to start making the click. Your starters internal bushings and bearings are likely worn out and are not allowing motor rotation when turning the key. This problem is common after driving in the rain and/ or deep water.

It could be your fuseable like if... If you have lost all power and your battery is fine you can try two things: one you can turn the ignition switch and them your transmission to neutral possition and try starting it then. if this works nothing is wrong with your transmission just a chip or wiering in it the cuts power to start. the other thing is to shake the cable that runs from the battery to the starter that might work. If you hear a click and hum, but no turning of the engine, then that's the starter. Knock on it lightly with a wrench (look for two large can-like things mounted next to each other under the Jeep, just in front of the passenger set.) This will work for now, but it should be replaced.

A. DTC P0744 Indicates a malfunction in the A/T Torque Converter Control (TCC) Signal circuit. This malfunction is detected when the automatic transmission does not shift into fourth gear position or the torque converter clutch does not lock up as instructed by the Automatic Transmission Control (ATC) unit. This is not caused by an electrical malfunction, circuits open or shorted, but by a mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking, improper solenoid valve operation, malfunctioning oil pump or torque converter clutch, etc. Replacing the TCC solenoid should fix the problem. Or you can just leave it alone. If you do a lot of highway driving you may notice a decrease in fuel economy. Of course the light will come on every time the TCC solenoid is actuated and will stay on until you turn the key OFF again. If you do replace it, the light will not come back on and after 50 key starts will erase from the PCM memory. A bad TCC solenoid will only effect TCC lockup. It will not effect transmission shifting in general.

Look above the fuse cluster behind the left kick panel.

Years ago this problem was very frequent. Charging systems are far more advanced now.If the voltage regulator is bad, I can see that the higher than expected

voltage increased the current, causing the fusing to blow out. However,

if the voltage regulator is good (if the voltage regulator is on the

alternator, one would hope it is good), then the voltage should be ok.

So the possible problems include:

1) Bad voltage regulator, leading to too high a voltage, causing the

fuses to blow out.

2) The mechanic used the wrong fuses.

3) There is a short circuit in the circuits controlled by the fuses.

It should be easy to test for [1] with a voltmeter and [2] by checking the

fuse ratings against the ones in the owner's manual. If it is [3], some needs to go and figure out where the short(s) is.

Had the same exact problem. Check the room fuse on fuse panel inside the car. I found mine blown, replaced it and it cranked right up. Hope this helps...

Check your water pump or hoses for leaks.

check your radiator and bleed it. You could be having a over heating problem.

because the engines has to heated upto the heat level for ignition

It could be a bad battery, or connection. A bad starter and or solenoid could be the problem, along with an ignition switch to name a few.

I had this problem. From what I can tell, the problem stems from two problems. One is moisture gets into the alternator and fries the core, and the other is actually with the spark plugs. If you are not running the engine long enough for it to get really hot, the fuel leaves deposits on the plug tips. Try cleaning the spark plugs and retry to start the car if it doesn't work still it is the Alternator. Also if you let it sit over a month, you might want to verify your liquid seals and fluid levels are still good. Okay, if it has sat for a month without any charge going to the battery, it is most likely the battery. Over time, batteries can lose their charge if not in use. Just get a jumpstart from a friendly neighbor or a buddy. I work in an auto parts store, so i tell people the better way to jumpstart their battery all the time, so it will survive for the next time you need to start it. whether it be jumper cables or a small jumper pack, allow the juice to flow into the dead car for about 2-5 minutes. then you can attempt to start it. if it wont start quite yet, let it go some more. when it starts, disconnect the donating juice and allow the vehicle to run at least a good 15 minutes to let the battery get some decent charge from the alternator. if you dont let it run before immediately driving somewhere, it may not get the proper charge it needs to be able to start it again. just a little car battery FYI: 1. A true dead battery wont hold a charge past an hour. 2. Keeping your terminals and posts clean from corrosion can help your battery last another year or two. 3. A simple multi-meter can tell you if your alternator is doing its job. 13-14Volts and up means it is ok, any lower and it needs to be replaced. just set your tester to DC 12 voltage. 4. If your battery appears to have bulging sides, it could mean it is being overcharged by the alternator. have the alternator an/or voltage regulator checked

Slamming the hood may be what loosened the wire in the first place. Look for a loose wire at the starter relay or solenoid (will be a thin wire routed from the ignition switch) and don't slam the hood anymore. Lower it until it is down and then push firmly down on it until it latches.

Ouch...

Unfortunately there are quite a few components that are transistorized, and any one of them could have blown transistors when the battery was connected backward. You can pretty much count on the alternator being fried since there is a diode plate that will not have tolerated reverse polarity, as to the computer and ignition system, it's anybody's guess. It all depends on whether the manufacturer anticipated that kind of mistake.

Check the fuseable link.

nothing, the starter will not engage, and the voltage bypass to the coil will not be energized.

I would look for a short somewhere in the wiring Harness.Pick up a book with the wiring diagram and test between that fuse and the end of the like where the wires meet the engine to make sure a wire is not broken or possibly ground out,or bare and touching another wire.

my 97 Nissan was doing the same thing, i found on alot of 97 Nissan trucks the same thing is happing, look at the second valve cover bolt from the fire wall it will be under the wires running beside the valve cover on the left side and it rubs a hole thru the insulation in to the wiring and causes a ground all i did was re wrap the wires with extra electrical tape so it could not rub thru as easy worked great

without personally shooting it and examining it .I cant tell you for sure , but here are some suggestions .Completely clean your rifle especially the breech block receiver and trigger group and magazine tube lifter and fallower 22 semi auto rifles are dirty shooters and fouling in the action can cause problems such as jamming .Sears recomends in their Mod 31 manual to compleatly clean Entire rifle every 250 rounds. also some 22 semi autos are very fussy about the type and brand of ammunition always use high velocity ammo I have good luck with federal high speed 22 LR the cheap stuff you buy at Walmart comes in 550 round boxes You rifle is fairly old it was made by High Standard for Sears in 1952 ITs 55 years old . High Standard guns are known for their High quality Your gun will also fire 22 shorts once again high speed only I own several of these guns .They are not known to jam very much unless they are really dirty I hope this helps let me know how you make out