Car Starting Problems

Because your spouse's vehicle is blocking you in?? This question makes about as much sence as asking, "Why is there air?"

When you say you put too much oil in it and it ran a couple of times, I assume you have a two-stroke engine where you mix the oil with the gasoline. You need to drainthe fuel mixture and replace with the correct gasoline/oil mixture. It may be necessary to remove the carburetor and clean it off with carburetor cleaner to remove the accumulated oil, you might also want to clean out the fuel lines. If it isa four-stroke engine where you add oil at the oil sump. you need to drain some of the oil to attain the proper level, remove the spark plug and clean it well - it may take several cleanings in orderto remove enouigh oil from the cylinder for it to start.(or replace with a new spark plug - itmay be necessary to also clean upa few times). - Good luck.

Put your keys in it.

If those were lost along with your FOB, contact a Chrysler dealership. They might be able to help you if you can prove ownership.

Even though I'm not a Canadian and not living in Canada...I do however live in the Northeastern section of the US, were winter temps can reach as low as -25 deg. f. When being concerned about oil related conditions, wind chill isn't a factor, only ambient temp. Watching the oil pressure guage at cold start-up, the reading is near max pressure at idle. With that said, some oil may be beginning to bypassed the main oil circuit back to the oil pan at the pump. This is to help prevent over pressurization of the lubrication system that can lead to filter bursting, blown gaskets, and broken pump shafts to name a few things. As I have read that oil pumps are a volume device rather than pressure device, pressure is built as there is resistance to the flow of fluid for which it pumps. Cold oil is appearently thick oil (ever do a freezer test on a small vial of oil?), and as the oil pressure may already be causing max system pressure at idle, that means oil flow within the engine's pathways is slow to move and pass through the clearences of the bearings, etc. Reving the engine any higher doesn't cause more oil to flow through the pathways if the pump's bypass is already starting to open, but rather it just leads to more oil being dumped back into the oil pan at or near the pump. This could lead to lubrication starvation, and is thought to be the reason why some newer cars as I've heard (German make I think) are starting to have a varying redline indicator. In such a case, the redline would start out low until the engine and oil were up to temp, for at which time the redline would have graduated up to it's normal rating. Another take would be the psychological association of human to machine - call it embodiment or projection of condition. Would someone want to jump out of bead and head right into the cold to shovel a driveway full of snow on a bitterly cold morning? I wouldn't. I'd take my time getting ready, getting something warm to drink and eat, etc., and then venture outside after getting bundled up and ready for it. Just starting an engine that's been out in the cold, be it in a vehicle or the pull start snow blower, it just resists (like one getting out of a warm bed). The engine may buck, vibrate, and just plan fuss...that is until you give it some time to warm itself up. I usually start the engine and move on to other preperations like cleaning the snow of the car, shoveling a way out, etc., before I finally get it in gear (seems productive as far as time management). And even so, the oil pump is still going into bypass before the automatic transmission shifts into the next gear on my vehicle. Other then those who take short trips, I see nothing wrong with a short warm-up period of say a few minutes in the cold of winter, to as little as 20-30 seconds in the heat of summer. What condensate is formed on the oil will be boiled/burned off if you get the oil up to running temperature and hold it there for 20-30 minutes. Engine oils by design also contain additives that help control possible side affects related to condensation and fuel dilution such as acids and particulate matter, albeit to a degree. So within a reasonable oil change period things should be fine. And just what is a reasonable oil change interval you ask, well that depends on a lot of factors really, but for which I have seen that only oil analysis can give you the best indication thus far. Some newer vehicles are now coming out with passive/active monitoring systems that calculate for the driver when the next oil change is recommended. Well, not so much science I have given as it is nothing more than opinion and observation...so take it for what it's worth. "Where's the documented proof to back-up the 'known fact' that engines wear less if you move right away at low RPM after a cold start?"

The starter on my Focus 2.3 Litre, won't even crank, if the transponder isn't making

contact, with the sensor around the lock cylinder. There is also a TSB(Technical Service

Bulletin) for a "Hard Starting" condition for the Focus. If I park my car, then go to start

it again, it will crank, but not start on occassion, so maybe that's what's going on instead, don't know. You have to get the ECU reprogrammed by a Ford dealer, to get the TSB thing done, which is free. Good luck.

If you're lucky, only dirty or corroded battery-terminals.

If you're less lucky, other possibilities are:

-- starter solenoid failed

-- starter motor failed

-- battery failed

-- alternator failed.

Any of those 5 possibilities would permit the radio to work but prevent starting.

(And there are several others too.)

Is your clutch pedal depressed? If it is, check switch on clutch pedal.

My experience is that the solenoid on the starter motor gets stuck and does not move, connecting the started motor to the gear.

Just hit the solenoid body with a mallet or with a hammer with a piece of wood in beteen to avoid damaging the solenoid.

Check to see if the security light is on. If so equipped the security passlock system may be shutting it down. Other than that there is a lot of things that could be wrong

Yes, it can ruin a battery and it can explode.

Not really. You'll have to fix it.

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I disagree with that answer. I just bypassed mine in my 96 Cutlass Supreem by bypassing the key lock. I found the ORANGE wire coming out of the steering column. DO NOT TOUCH THE YELLOW WIRE as it controls the airbag. Wouldn't want it blowing up in your face now would you?

The key has a black rectangle in it with a little piece of metal going through the key. Get someone to measure the resistance from one side of the key to the other. Mine registered 681 ohms. I went to radio shack and bought resistors that total 680 ohms. Using Radio shack connectors, I connected them in series (in a long line). I then cut the orange cable. It really is a sheath that has two white wires inside. I connected the two white wires from the engine side to the two ends of my resistor string I made. The car starts everytime now. There is a listing on the web of the 15 different keys. They each have a different resistance. That's why you have to measure yours with a very accurate meter. The sresistors cost 99 cents for five each.

Ok, I had the same problem with a Nissan Maxima! Here is what I did:

First, you need to cut all the wires from the alarm and splice them back where they came from. Its a difficult! Secondly, you have to find the fuel pump relay switch, which should be a blue box in the kick panel. Jump the relay switch so it by passes the relay. All the alarm actually does is cut off the power to the fuel pump. Or, if you take a hot wire and run it to the fuel pump the car will start. In the box under the dash should be a black box. It has a key inside of it with a mirror. You need to take that key and try starting the car.

replace the balist resister replace the balist resister

a bad alternator or battery or both

The first thing to look at is the ATF. Remove the dipstick, put some of the fluid on a white piece of paper and see if it has a black coloring. Smell it, if it's burned that's a sign that the transmission has been slipping.

Slipping, that's when the transmission "slides" into gear when it shifts or it may not shift "crisply" into gear when you move the gearshift.

Sometimes a transmission will grab then release and grab again.

Any of those kinds of problems are typical of a worn and failing transmission.

Often people fail to change the transmission fluid regularly. You should follow the manufacturers recommendations to maximize transmission life.

When SOME shops change the transmission fluid they'll tell you that the little bits of shiny stuff in the bottom of the pan is evidence that the transmission is wearing and try to sell you on a transmission rebuild. Don't do it!

While EXCESSIVE debris in the bottom of the transmission pan is evidence of serious failure, SOME debris is inevitable. Keep the fluids clean and drive it till it drops.

call a locksmith you probably damaged the ignition switch and it need to be replaced.ask him if he can fit the new switch to the same key as the original.

Pinging or knocking could be any number of things, unfortunately. Experienced car folks can usually tell serious problems from minor ones just by listening.

Number one problem is low grade (low octane) or cheap gas. It doesn't ignite as well as the others and may lag behind the spark just a bit to allow you to hear the combustion from the cylinder from the open valve.

Secondly is ignition timing. Retarded or advanced timing could accomplish the same problem. Burning the compressed air/fuel vapor at the wrong time resulting in a ping. My experience in California is that the manufacturer's "smog test" suggested timing makes my car run really bad. Every time they test it, I have to set my timing at the mfgrs setting for the test (or else they wont do it). It passes but runs like heck.... pinging and no power. I just set the timing back to what runs well and doesn't ping after the test passes. Kind of a joke really.

The two above are usually diagnosed as a rattle or "ping" from the valve train (top of the engine) and occurs typically when the engine is under load. Going uphill, starting out from a stoplight or accelerating quickly. Both of these will build up carbon in the valves and pistons when associated with stop and go city driving. If the carbon stays hot, it acts like a spark pulg and lites the compressed fuel/air vapor and will cause the car to run-on (dieseling) after you shut it off.

Now (not to scare anyone) but "knocking" is another thing altogether. Again, a trained or experienced ear can tell the difference. Knocking could be a worn part in the engine that may require a rebuild. Not likely though. Chase all the other (cheaper) ideas first.

HEY. CHECK YOUR MOTOR OIL LEVEL. When oil gets low, rattling from the valve train and oil pump may be heard. Oil leaves cars in various ways, though burning, dripping and big gashes in the oil pan...... don't ask :) Make sure you keep the right oil in the car (check your owner's manual) The wrong viscosity of oil can ruin hydraulic lifters.... another ratttle. Get the right stuff at the right dipstick level.

No, there are no resets after you replace your radio. I would however check to make sure you put all the wires back on - and did not take something important out. Eric

It's probably not getting enough fuel. Check the fuel filter but more likely the fuel pump.

In addition to lack of fuel it could be a monster vacuum leak. Does this condition improve as the engine gets to normal operating condition? I struggled with a leaky intake manifold gasket for two winter season. After six trips to local mechanics and as many reasons it was discovered at the local Lincoln dealer...by

accident. Vehicle has 180k miles now and starts, idles like new

From FAQ Farmer Albil: "My 98 Rav-4 started smoking around 90k... The Shore Toyota people advised me that the "seal's" in the cylander was passing oil, causing the smoking, it wasn't a excessively expensive event, and did correct the problem."

Check the battery and connections

That is the shortest bleed air route for starting from the GTC/APU, decreasing your chance of a slow/hot start. And also the engine can be upsped and generator brought online so that you have two generator on (#3 eng and APU), before disconnecting ground external power on the left side of the aircraft.