Car Starting Problems

Is your clutch pedal depressed? If it is, check switch on clutch pedal.

My experience is that the solenoid on the starter motor gets stuck and does not move, connecting the started motor to the gear.

Just hit the solenoid body with a mallet or with a hammer with a piece of wood in beteen to avoid damaging the solenoid.

Check to see if the security light is on. If so equipped the security passlock system may be shutting it down. Other than that there is a lot of things that could be wrong

Yes, it can ruin a battery and it can explode.

Not really. You'll have to fix it.

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I disagree with that answer. I just bypassed mine in my 96 Cutlass Supreem by bypassing the key lock. I found the ORANGE wire coming out of the steering column. DO NOT TOUCH THE YELLOW WIRE as it controls the airbag. Wouldn't want it blowing up in your face now would you?

The key has a black rectangle in it with a little piece of metal going through the key. Get someone to measure the resistance from one side of the key to the other. Mine registered 681 ohms. I went to radio shack and bought resistors that total 680 ohms. Using Radio shack connectors, I connected them in series (in a long line). I then cut the orange cable. It really is a sheath that has two white wires inside. I connected the two white wires from the engine side to the two ends of my resistor string I made. The car starts everytime now. There is a listing on the web of the 15 different keys. They each have a different resistance. That's why you have to measure yours with a very accurate meter. The sresistors cost 99 cents for five each.

Ok, I had the same problem with a Nissan Maxima! Here is what I did:

First, you need to cut all the wires from the alarm and splice them back where they came from. Its a difficult! Secondly, you have to find the fuel pump relay switch, which should be a blue box in the kick panel. Jump the relay switch so it by passes the relay. All the alarm actually does is cut off the power to the fuel pump. Or, if you take a hot wire and run it to the fuel pump the car will start. In the box under the dash should be a black box. It has a key inside of it with a mirror. You need to take that key and try starting the car.

replace the balist resister replace the balist resister

a bad alternator or battery or both

The first thing to look at is the ATF. Remove the dipstick, put some of the fluid on a white piece of paper and see if it has a black coloring. Smell it, if it's burned that's a sign that the transmission has been slipping.

Slipping, that's when the transmission "slides" into gear when it shifts or it may not shift "crisply" into gear when you move the gearshift.

Sometimes a transmission will grab then release and grab again.

Any of those kinds of problems are typical of a worn and failing transmission.

Often people fail to change the transmission fluid regularly. You should follow the manufacturers recommendations to maximize transmission life.

When SOME shops change the transmission fluid they'll tell you that the little bits of shiny stuff in the bottom of the pan is evidence that the transmission is wearing and try to sell you on a transmission rebuild. Don't do it!

While EXCESSIVE debris in the bottom of the transmission pan is evidence of serious failure, SOME debris is inevitable. Keep the fluids clean and drive it till it drops.

call a locksmith you probably damaged the ignition switch and it need to be replaced.ask him if he can fit the new switch to the same key as the original.

Pinging or knocking could be any number of things, unfortunately. Experienced car folks can usually tell serious problems from minor ones just by listening.

Number one problem is low grade (low octane) or cheap gas. It doesn't ignite as well as the others and may lag behind the spark just a bit to allow you to hear the combustion from the cylinder from the open valve.

Secondly is ignition timing. Retarded or advanced timing could accomplish the same problem. Burning the compressed air/fuel vapor at the wrong time resulting in a ping. My experience in California is that the manufacturer's "smog test" suggested timing makes my car run really bad. Every time they test it, I have to set my timing at the mfgrs setting for the test (or else they wont do it). It passes but runs like heck.... pinging and no power. I just set the timing back to what runs well and doesn't ping after the test passes. Kind of a joke really.

The two above are usually diagnosed as a rattle or "ping" from the valve train (top of the engine) and occurs typically when the engine is under load. Going uphill, starting out from a stoplight or accelerating quickly. Both of these will build up carbon in the valves and pistons when associated with stop and go city driving. If the carbon stays hot, it acts like a spark pulg and lites the compressed fuel/air vapor and will cause the car to run-on (dieseling) after you shut it off.

Now (not to scare anyone) but "knocking" is another thing altogether. Again, a trained or experienced ear can tell the difference. Knocking could be a worn part in the engine that may require a rebuild. Not likely though. Chase all the other (cheaper) ideas first.

HEY. CHECK YOUR MOTOR OIL LEVEL. When oil gets low, rattling from the valve train and oil pump may be heard. Oil leaves cars in various ways, though burning, dripping and big gashes in the oil pan...... don't ask :) Make sure you keep the right oil in the car (check your owner's manual) The wrong viscosity of oil can ruin hydraulic lifters.... another ratttle. Get the right stuff at the right dipstick level.

No, there are no resets after you replace your radio. I would however check to make sure you put all the wires back on - and did not take something important out. Eric

It's probably not getting enough fuel. Check the fuel filter but more likely the fuel pump.

In addition to lack of fuel it could be a monster vacuum leak. Does this condition improve as the engine gets to normal operating condition? I struggled with a leaky intake manifold gasket for two winter season. After six trips to local mechanics and as many reasons it was discovered at the local Lincoln dealer...by

accident. Vehicle has 180k miles now and starts, idles like new

From FAQ Farmer Albil: "My 98 Rav-4 started smoking around 90k... The Shore Toyota people advised me that the "seal's" in the cylander was passing oil, causing the smoking, it wasn't a excessively expensive event, and did correct the problem."

Check the battery and connections

That is the shortest bleed air route for starting from the GTC/APU, decreasing your chance of a slow/hot start. And also the engine can be upsped and generator brought online so that you have two generator on (#3 eng and APU), before disconnecting ground external power on the left side of the aircraft.

You need a new starter

Carbon

Yes, and I would like to know where the fuel pump is located.

You have to lift the car and look from underneath. There are 2 bolts that go thru the bellhousing and connect to the starter. Locate the starter (on Left Hand drive the starter is on the driver side). The 2 bolts are 19mm. The bottom bolt is easier to get out, the top one will require a long extension on the racthet and perhaps an impact gun. Try to loosen with a breaker bar if you have one.

Start with a fuel pressure test. Pump running with engine off you should have 60-66 max PSI. Turn the pump off, pressure will drop to aprox 52 then it should hold.

Remove a spark plug (any one will do), and lay it somewhere on the engine where you or a buddy can see it (not near that puddle of gasoline, though, thank you very much). Crank the engine. If you see a nice bright spark (believe me, you won't miss it if it's there) then you have a fuel delivery problem. If you see no spark, you have an ignition problem. Be sure to replace the spark plug after this test.

check for spark. check for fuel pressure.

Wear several thin layers and a waterproof top layer.