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Car Starting Problems
Some of the common car starting problems stem from a discharged battery, a bad fuel pump (or no fuel), a weakened starter motor, or a broken electrical connection. Checking each part will help troubleshoot why the car won’t start.
5,524 Questions
With no other information than what you've described, I'd start with the keyswitch.
I changed the alternator and the car wont start now what do you do?
automatic im assuming check the battery a way to do this is go in your car and see if you get lights/radio.If your battery works then your gonna have something wrong with your engine. check your spark plugs if you havent changed them in a while then its good to do so.Otherwise speak to a local mechanic.there could be too many problems to list.
If its Manual then try to get it to a steep hill or so go down the hill in first with the clutch in then when your at the climax of your speed drop the clutch shift up into second all at the same time as fast as you can.remember dont practise this in the driveway or you flood the engine then you have to wait a while before it will start. if you did this correctly you can start your car with out your keys.
What might be the problem if your 1995 Chevy Blazer will not start or even turn over?
siezed engine/dead battery
Answerpossibly a bad ground Answeryour starter might need to be replaced Answeri have gone thru this with 2 1995 blazers.....although my 1st one didnt seize up, the problem was the same on both....1st of all check your oil level...if its high,your problem is the fuel injection "fuel pressure regulator which sits under the plenum....this goes bad and floods the right bank sometimes getting what seems to be a seized up situation, really whats happening is kinda like getting a vapor lock and the motor will not turn over.....to replace the regulator isn't that tuff....undo the sensors on the top...then unbolt the nuts/bolts(12 or so) starting at the left front corner and working your way around...lift it off in the center you will see your injection "spider"...go to auto zone and pick one up or order it, plus the gasket(the regulator is about $40.00 and gasket is about$6 OR 7...comes with "O" rings and a special screw driver adapter to remove 2 screws (top and bottom)replace and put the plenum back on....bolting back down in the opposite direction....snug all then tighten to specs,hook your sensors lines ,air cleaner,etc...might be a great idea to at least replace the 3 plugs on the roght/passenger side THEN....CHANGE THE OIL/FILTER before starting...what has happened is fuel filled those cylinders,ran right past the pistons into the oil... the motor got whats was basically a vapor lock.....now i had to keep hiting the starter and added a jump from another car for a little extra boost....FINALLY it started to crank over a little at a time then cranked normally, i featherd the gas pedal a little and it finally started,blew a hell of alot of white smoke out.. i drove around nice and easy for awhile...after that, it was fine....by the way...if you saw the beautiful condition this blazer is in, all the receipts from the previous owner, new brakes,new michelin tires, its an LT with all options including leather.... i bought this from the dealership where the guy traded it in... they thought the motor was seized... i bought the blazer for $650.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!anyone wanting any other info on this can email meredrx791@yahoo.comCould also be an ignition switch..
Why would a 351 distributor turn clockwise?
i would make sure you have a 351 and not a 4.9 lt motor. the 4.9 is the only engine i know that distributer turns clockwise. all others turn counterclockwise
Why wont the key turn in the igniton in a 2003 svt Ford Focus?
It's considered a design flaw by ford and do not offer to fix it. As for the mechanics behind it, I'm still at a loss. Sorry I can't offer anymore information on this.
the 1st thing that comes to mind with a car w more than 60000 miles is the timing belt if ur car is turning over at a higher rate of speed than normal it usually means that only half of the motor is moving the crank to b exact not real familiar w the exact setup of that car but most 4bangers have a cover that the top half can be removed to inspect the belt check 4 spark issues as well as fuel pressure issues be carful not to turn motor over any more until u know the belt is not the problem some engine are very close tolerance an futher damage$$$ can occur to ur valvetrain would suggest getting a good chiltons manual (not a fan of haynes)to help walk u through all of these problems are easily fixed if u have the patience good luck
I'm always suspicious when a vehicle fails after a major repair. It's often one of the recently replaced components, but which one? See if you can find an OBD code scanner for your vehicle and try to read the computer code. Most electronic faults will show up, even if the engine won't run. You can borrow, rent or buy a code scanner from most auto parts retailers, and if they aren't busy, many will help you figure it out. You may need to tow the vehicle if you want them to help you.
What are symptoms of a car starter dying?
Usually it dies slowly, won't start one day and start the next. It usually becomes more frequent. Also usually acompanied by a grinding noise.
Why could the key get stuck in the ignition?
because stupid, YOU GOT THE WRONG KEY Typically, the most common reason for the key to be "stuck" in the ignitions, is that the steering wheel is turned from the center position, which causes the ignition interlock feature to be "jammed". By manipulation of the steering wheel, to where there is no tension on it, will usually allow the key to be moved to a psoition to where it can be removed. Typically, the most common reason for the key to be "stuck" in the ignitions, is that the steering wheel is turned from the center position, which causes the ignition interlock feature to be "jammed". By manipulation of the steering wheel, to where there is no tension on it, will usually allow the key to be moved to a position to where it can be removed.
The alternator is not charging the battery, therefore, the coil is getting it's charge only from the battery.
Check the fuel pump relay.
What causes bad spark in a 1998 stratus?
If you touch the sparky thingy that could cause a spark through your body which would be a bad spark. Am I close?
How do you tell if your engine has seized?
your ingine will make a sound and then wont start or turn over,
Why won't a car start when it's cold?
The majority of the time this is due to the "Cold Cranking Amps" in your battery. Most batteries are only good until it gets down to a certain temperature. After the temperature reaches or goes below the minimum temperature, the car isn't going to start. Generally speaking, the battery will tell you on it's sticker or label how many "Cold Cranking Amps" your battery has (aka CCA Rating), and what temperature is the minimum temperature the car will be able to start at. Most of the time, it's limited to 0oF.
More information:
There may be water mixed with your fuel. water + cold = frozen fuel. get some HEET from a local gas station to remove water from your fuel during the cold months.
If your car is Diesel it maybe that the GlowPlugs are not working.
When you start your car why would you have to wait 30 minutes before it will move?
Because your spouse's vehicle is blocking you in?? This question makes about as much sence as asking, "Why is there air?"
When you say you put too much oil in it and it ran a couple of times, I assume you have a two-stroke engine where you mix the oil with the gasoline. You need to drainthe fuel mixture and replace with the correct gasoline/oil mixture. It may be necessary to remove the carburetor and clean it off with carburetor cleaner to remove the accumulated oil, you might also want to clean out the fuel lines. If it isa four-stroke engine where you add oil at the oil sump. you need to drain some of the oil to attain the proper level, remove the spark plug and clean it well - it may take several cleanings in orderto remove enouigh oil from the cylinder for it to start.(or replace with a new spark plug - itmay be necessary to also clean upa few times). - Good luck.
You have lost your fob and your car is abroad how do you start your Chrysler Stratus?
Put your keys in it.
If those were lost along with your FOB, contact a Chrysler dealership. They might be able to help you if you can prove ownership.
I'm not familiar with, and don't have any experience with your vehicle, but the key clue in your question is that it will "fire" when applying starting fluid.
This clearly indicates that the problem is that fuel is not getting to the cylinders. There could be many causes for this, and without being able to do a "hands on troubleshooting" of your vehicle none of us on this site can tell you what that specific defect is.
Here are some of the things I can think of that could cause fuel starvation:
- Leaks in fuel system allowing air in which can inhibit fuel flow,
- Pinches or kinks in fuel lines or hoses which cut off fuel flow,
- Blocked fuel filter, or filters,
- Fuel pump, or pumps, not working,
- Clogged filter screen in fuel pickup line in fuel tank [s],
- If a carbureted vehicle, float valve stuck closed,
- Small passages [called "galleries"] inside the carburetor clogged/blocked,
- If a fuel injected vehicle, the electronic control defective not allowing fuel to pass.
There are probably other causes which escape my mind right now.
Even though I'm not a Canadian and not living in Canada...I do however live in the Northeastern section of the US, were winter temps can reach as low as -25 deg. f. When being concerned about oil related conditions, wind chill isn't a factor, only ambient temp. Watching the oil pressure guage at cold start-up, the reading is near max pressure at idle. With that said, some oil may be beginning to bypassed the main oil circuit back to the oil pan at the pump. This is to help prevent over pressurization of the lubrication system that can lead to filter bursting, blown gaskets, and broken pump shafts to name a few things. As I have read that oil pumps are a volume device rather than pressure device, pressure is built as there is resistance to the flow of fluid for which it pumps. Cold oil is appearently thick oil (ever do a freezer test on a small vial of oil?), and as the oil pressure may already be causing max system pressure at idle, that means oil flow within the engine's pathways is slow to move and pass through the clearences of the bearings, etc. Reving the engine any higher doesn't cause more oil to flow through the pathways if the pump's bypass is already starting to open, but rather it just leads to more oil being dumped back into the oil pan at or near the pump. This could lead to lubrication starvation, and is thought to be the reason why some newer cars as I've heard (German make I think) are starting to have a varying redline indicator. In such a case, the redline would start out low until the engine and oil were up to temp, for at which time the redline would have graduated up to it's normal rating. Another take would be the psychological association of human to machine - call it embodiment or projection of condition. Would someone want to jump out of bead and head right into the cold to shovel a driveway full of snow on a bitterly cold morning? I wouldn't. I'd take my time getting ready, getting something warm to drink and eat, etc., and then venture outside after getting bundled up and ready for it. Just starting an engine that's been out in the cold, be it in a vehicle or the pull start snow blower, it just resists (like one getting out of a warm bed). The engine may buck, vibrate, and just plan fuss...that is until you give it some time to warm itself up. I usually start the engine and move on to other preperations like cleaning the snow of the car, shoveling a way out, etc., before I finally get it in gear (seems productive as far as time management). And even so, the oil pump is still going into bypass before the automatic transmission shifts into the next gear on my vehicle. Other then those who take short trips, I see nothing wrong with a short warm-up period of say a few minutes in the cold of winter, to as little as 20-30 seconds in the heat of summer. What condensate is formed on the oil will be boiled/burned off if you get the oil up to running temperature and hold it there for 20-30 minutes. Engine oils by design also contain additives that help control possible side affects related to condensation and fuel dilution such as acids and particulate matter, albeit to a degree. So within a reasonable oil change period things should be fine. And just what is a reasonable oil change interval you ask, well that depends on a lot of factors really, but for which I have seen that only oil analysis can give you the best indication thus far. Some newer vehicles are now coming out with passive/active monitoring systems that calculate for the driver when the next oil change is recommended. Well, not so much science I have given as it is nothing more than opinion and observation...so take it for what it's worth. "Where's the documented proof to back-up the 'known fact' that engines wear less if you move right away at low RPM after a cold start?"
How do you remove and change the starter on a 1996 Nissan pickup?
Radio works but car doesn't start?
If you're lucky, only dirty or corroded battery-terminals.
If you're less lucky, other possibilities are:
-- starter solenoid failed
-- starter motor failed
-- battery failed
-- alternator failed.
Any of those 5 possibilities would permit the radio to work but prevent starting.
(And there are several others too.)
The starter on my Focus 2.3 Litre, won't even crank, if the transponder isn't making
contact, with the sensor around the lock cylinder. There is also a TSB(Technical Service
Bulletin) for a "Hard Starting" condition for the Focus. If I park my car, then go to start
it again, it will crank, but not start on occassion, so maybe that's what's going on instead, don't know. You have to get the ECU reprogrammed by a Ford dealer, to get the TSB thing done, which is free. Good luck.
