Car Starting Problems

There's one procedure for changing starter motors that works on everything from a Volkswagen Bug to a semi tractor.

1. Unhook the battery.

2. Find the starter. There will be two wires running to it. The fat one (it goes to the battery) is bolted on, the thin one (it goes to the ignition switch) has a push-on connector. Disconnect both wires.

3. The starter is held to the engine with two bolts. Remove the nuts and then the starter. Be careful because these are heavy--and the bigger the engine is, the heavier the starter.

4. Put the new starter in place and bolt it in. Tighten the bolts very tight.

5. Reconnect the two wires, then hook the battery back up and you're done.

Quick note: Before you unhook anything, get a little piece of wire, strip both ends and short the two wires together WITH THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL AND THE WHEELS CHOCKED!!!! If the starter cranks the engine the problem is somewhere in the ignition-switch circuit, not the starter.

Is the fuel pressure ? is there spark at the plugs?

Right off it sounds like a component gets too warm and fails, but works cold. Is the engine getting fuel when warm? Does it have spark when warm? Knowing the answers to those questions as well as make, model, year and engine size would help to answer your question.

I had a similar problem with a 1987 Chevy Celebrity. I replaced the ignition module and the crankshaft sensor and it runs fine now.

Bad battery, bad solenoid, bad cables.

Only if the engine is not cranking. Otherwise the problem is engine related.

fuel shut off sensor not working causing you to overfill. gas tank works on splash system and if its too full it will have trouble pulling gas

I believe it happens when the steering wheel is turned either to the left or the right. My girlfriend didn't have my steering wheel lined up straight and broke the key in my ignition!

It's important that you run a computer diagnostic test to see what the computer is reporting. When the check engine light comes on it's telling you that the computer has "stored a problem code" meaning that you're supposed to check into what's going on. In general, the computer will know quite a bit about what's wrong, but it can't tell the difference between out of fuel, a blocked filter or a failed fuel pump. On the other hand, it could be a throttle position sensor or an ICM and the computer WOULD know what's wrong or at least point you in the right direction.

The alternator is in the car for two purposes. One ... to charge the battery. Two ... to run anything and everything electrical within the car when it's running. So basically, the battery is only there to start the car and that's it, the alternator has nothing to do with the starting of the vehicle.

If the car won't start, it's probably NOT the alternator. It's a possible problem with the battery or within the starting system. It could be caused by something as simple as making sure the shifter is in the park position all the way. (automatic transmission only of course) If this is an automatic, you can also try placing the car in neutral but MAKE SURE YOU USE THE BRAKES OR PUT THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ON before and while starting it. If it starts in neutral but not in park, it's the neutral safety switch gone bad.

If the car is a manual, the clutch safety switch located (usually) above the clutch pedal may be the culprit.

Now ... there are many things in the starting system that can go wrong from a fuse, to a starter solenoid, a starter relay, the starter itself, the ignition switch, a bad connection somewhere, a broken wire or a security system within the car. There are other things that can go wrong, but without knowing the year make and model of the vehicle, this is the best I can do for ya. Good Luck!

With no other information than what you've described, I'd start with the keyswitch.

automatic im assuming check the battery a way to do this is go in your car and see if you get lights/radio.If your battery works then your gonna have something wrong with your engine. check your spark plugs if you havent changed them in a while then its good to do so.Otherwise speak to a local mechanic.there could be too many problems to list.

If its Manual then try to get it to a steep hill or so go down the hill in first with the clutch in then when your at the climax of your speed drop the clutch shift up into second all at the same time as fast as you can.remember dont practise this in the driveway or you flood the engine then you have to wait a while before it will start. if you did this correctly you can start your car with out your keys.

a monkey

i would make sure you have a 351 and not a 4.9 lt motor. the 4.9 is the only engine i know that distributer turns clockwise. all others turn counterclockwise

It's considered a design flaw by ford and do not offer to fix it. As for the mechanics behind it, I'm still at a loss. Sorry I can't offer anymore information on this.

driver side

the 1st thing that comes to mind with a car w more than 60000 miles is the timing belt if ur car is turning over at a higher rate of speed than normal it usually means that only half of the motor is moving the crank to b exact not real familiar w the exact setup of that car but most 4bangers have a cover that the top half can be removed to inspect the belt check 4 spark issues as well as fuel pressure issues be carful not to turn motor over any more until u know the belt is not the problem some engine are very close tolerance an futher damage$$$ can occur to ur valvetrain would suggest getting a good chiltons manual (not a fan of haynes)to help walk u through all of these problems are easily fixed if u have the patience good luck

I'm always suspicious when a vehicle fails after a major repair. It's often one of the recently replaced components, but which one? See if you can find an OBD code scanner for your vehicle and try to read the computer code. Most electronic faults will show up, even if the engine won't run. You can borrow, rent or buy a code scanner from most auto parts retailers, and if they aren't busy, many will help you figure it out. You may need to tow the vehicle if you want them to help you.

Usually it dies slowly, won't start one day and start the next. It usually becomes more frequent. Also usually acompanied by a grinding noise.

because stupid, YOU GOT THE WRONG KEY Typically, the most common reason for the key to be "stuck" in the ignitions, is that the steering wheel is turned from the center position, which causes the ignition interlock feature to be "jammed". By manipulation of the steering wheel, to where there is no tension on it, will usually allow the key to be moved to a psoition to where it can be removed. Typically, the most common reason for the key to be "stuck" in the ignitions, is that the steering wheel is turned from the center position, which causes the ignition interlock feature to be "jammed". By manipulation of the steering wheel, to where there is no tension on it, will usually allow the key to be moved to a position to where it can be removed.

You must push key and turn.

The alternator is not charging the battery, therefore, the coil is getting it's charge only from the battery.

Check the fuel pump relay.

If you touch the sparky thingy that could cause a spark through your body which would be a bad spark. Am I close?

your ingine will make a sound and then wont start or turn over,