Car Starting Problems

The computer uses it to control the power supply to the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coil.

The oil pressure switch on a 1995 cutlass supreme is located under the hood front center of the oil pan. It is right beside the oil filter.?æ

Normally it will be noisy. You may also experience hard starting, engine backfire, and poor performance if the chain has jumped a tooth. Chains normally last the life of the engine and are replaced during a complete overhaul.

on the right of the fender under the hood there's a blue relay one relay but two plug's end together you would need to go to the dealer in get one or a salvage yard autopzone and o'reilly's don't Carrie it at all. the relay's are bad about going bad ...

my best guess without actually looking at it would be the ignition coil. sometimes as they get warm the coil can "go open" making it harder to start. try this to see, when the engine is overnight cold, locate the ignition coil by following the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap to the ignition coil. take a hair dryer and blow it on the coil until it is warm to hot to the touch(a heat gun works better and much faster) try to start the car. if you have the same problem as when the engine is hot, you've just identified the problem. a bad coil. the procedure is the same if there is no distributor cap except that there are 2 coils on the drivers side of the cylinder head instead of just one. try the same test just do them one at a time to see which is the problem.

first check fuses inside car,look for location in owners manual....if all fuses are good, then you need to find fuse/relay location under hood....next most likely item that affects different systems is a bad electrical ground.....if the fuses dont fix it, go to a mechanic.

Car battery is run down.

In the carborator if you have one. Otherwise in the air intake.

Starter fluid should be sprayed into the throttle body intake. Spray in small amounts, as the fluid is highly flammable. Any over spray could ignite if the engine backfires.

sounds like a dead battery clicking indicates a little power getting to starter solenoid test the battery then have starter motor checked failing that, have ignition switch checked Re: the clicking around the shifter area... Do you have your foot on the brake pedal when you turn on the key? There is a shift lockout that is engaged when the shifter is in "park", and you need to press the brake pedal to disengage it. You're probably hearing the lockout actuator when you turn the key. Re: "won't turn over" That's a term that many people find confusing. "Turn over" usually means that the starter engages and turns the engine. Unfortunately, many people use that term to indicate that the engine doesn't start. If the engine doesn't "turn over", you only have a few possibilities to consider... Check the battery and connections. Make sure you're getting a good connection to the starter. If you know someone who can figure it out for you, jumper the starter solenoid DIRECTLY to see if the problem is with the starter. If it won't engage when you jumper the starter, it's either the starter or a connection. You'll only need a small wire between the battery voltage and the SMALL solenoid input. On the other hand, if the starter engages when you go around the other electrical switches, the problem will be the keyswitch, neutral lockout or a bad connection somewhere.

Most likely your starter has failed. Old school test: Make sure your battery is good and fully charged. Make sure cable connections to battery are clean and tight. Locate the starter and, depending on access, TAP on the main starter body with a hammer, pipe, long 3/8" extension, broom stick, etc. While someone turns the ignition to the start position. If starter engages and cranks the engine or produces grinding noise and will only barely turn over, the starter is bad. There are other possilble causes, but you gotta start somewhere.

The problem is that after 30 plus years the wires get old and the electrical resistance increases until turning the key just doesn't supply enough to engage the starter. The good news is there's an easy fix. Visit the link posted below in the Sources section.

No, if it starts on its own without you turning the ignition switch then the ignition switch is defective.

Dashboard lights are there to keep you safe and give you feedback about your vehicle. As dashboard lights expand and improve, they will begin to evolve until every piece of the car is covered and all we have to do is read the flashing light to see what's wrong. Even though dashboard lights are a great help to us all and save a lot of time and hassle, drivers should keep in mind that it's always a good idea to understand the basics of how your automobile works. Sometimes they'll go off when there's really no problem at all. This is also a good time to understand your car so you'll know when to simply ignore the lights on your dashboard.

In most situations like this, there is an "Inertia Switch" to shut off the fuel supply to avoid a posswible fire if the fuel supply is ruptured. You must reset the switch to restore the fuel supply. This switch can be located in the trunk area...and sometimes under the dash. This information for a specific vehicle should be located in the owners manual! TedG

FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF SWITCH After a collision, if the engine cranks but does not start, the fuel pump shut-off switch may have been activated. The "Fuel Reset" indicator light will illuminate in the instrument cluster. The shut-off switch is a device intended to stop the electric fuel pump when your vehicle has been involved in a substantial jolt. 1. Turn the ignition to the OFF position. 2. Check the fuel system for leaks. 3. If no fuel leak is apparent, reset the fuel pump shut-off switch by pushing in the reset button. 4. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Pause for a few seconds and return the key to the OFF position. 5. Make a further check for leaks in the fuel system. Roadside emergencies The fuel pump shut-off switch is located in the passenger's foot well, behind the kick panel.

I take that back with apologies. 0720 IS the output sensor, p0727 would be the input

From: Jim M. Auto Zone, NAPPA and Discount Auto Parts sells the Output Speed Sensor for about $16.00 or a little more. It costs $25.00 at the dealer. I checked the code myself, with my own code checker which is very inexpensive, when my engine light came on as my transmission hesitated between first and second gear.

I have a 1999 Dodge 1500 Ram van with a 318 Cubic Inch (5.2 Liter) engine with a four speed (Three speed with Overdrive), transmission. I have 138,000 miles on my van.

The sensor is located near the rear of the transmission on the driver's side and is easily accessible. All you need is a one inch wrench to remove it. The color may vary from grey to white, etc. The wire clamps on to the head of the sensor and comes off very easily. The sensor screws out very easily. When it is removed a small amount of transmission fluid may drip out. Replace the old sensor with the new one by just screwing it in and replacing the wire to the sensor.

Took my code reader and turned the code off. Drove the van down the road and had no problems with it after the sensor replacement. Transmissions shifts quite easily with no hesitation.

After doing some research, found out that the sensor checks the speed of the trans-axle to let the transmission know when to shift. If there is a short-circuit on that sensor, it does not tell the transmission to shift to the next gear and causes the check-engine light to come on. I got around the problem by pressing the accelerator more at first to make it shift, however, I also found out that if I manually shifted from 1st gear to second to third that also worked, until I could get to the auto parts store to buy the sensor. Remember, it is the Output Speed Sensor for the P0720 code.

Only took about 15 minutes to replace.

Thanks (jhmeeinc44@aol.com) thx all solutions the same on 2000 dodge dakota!

When the car battery is dead, you will most likely hear the clicking, while the engine will not start, or will seem to almost start and then shut down. Enough battery power is required to start your vehicle, and keep it functioning. Your alternator should supply some little power for you to replace the battery. If the car doesn't start after you gave some time for the alternator to recharge, and you need to get to your house, or buy a new battery, you can try safely asking another vehicle operator for a battery jump (will require jumper cables). Remember, once the battery is jumped, next time you shut the engine off, you might not be able to start the car again, without it being jumped again. Also, when asking strangers for help with your car, be safe, do it around other people, and don't be pushy.

Blown fuse.

It is possible that (1)your starter is not receiving enough power from the battery, (2)your starter is poorly grounded, or (3) your starter solenoid or starter is bad. Check for power from your battery using a volt meter with the positive lead on the large cable and the negative lead to ground on the chassis, it should be 12 volts. To test if your starter is grounded disconnect your battery ( ground lead first ) then use an ohm meter with one lead on the starter body or starter bolt and the other to the chassis ( not the motor ); the resistance should be minimal. If these check out remove the starter and bench test it with a known fully charged, good battery.

Year, make, model and engine would help but, a bad timing belt or a bad fuel pump could do that.

The battery that fits in a 2003 Saturn L300 is 10 and 3/4 inches in length. The width of the battery is 6 and 7/8 inches and the height is 7 and 1/4 inches. The battery needs to be a 12 volt battery that is a side post battery.

If the car has a manual transmission, it can be "pop started" by pushing it with the clutch disengaged and then throwing it into a low gear while it is moving. Otherwise the starter is crucial to getting the car's engine to turn over.