Car Starting Problems

To find where number one spark plug wire connects to the distributor, remove the distriutor cap and set number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). At TDC, the rotor should be pointing to where number one spark plug wire connects.

The starter is located on the left side of the engine under the lower intake plemum. It's a long cylindrical thingy. you can trace the positive battery cable to it. It will plug into what looks like a plug for a distributor cap. The starter is located on the left side of the engine under the lower intake plemum. It's a long cylindrical thingy. you can trace the positive battery cable to it. It will plug into what looks like a plug for a distributor cap.

Replace it with a new radio or use car insurace

Coefficent of thermal expansion (alpha) for steel is approximately 11.5 X E-06 /degree C.

New size after heating = Diameter * (1 + alpha*delta-t).

A change of 256 degrees C is required to be exact. If you heat it to about 300 degree C it should fit over nicely - don't want it too tight when hot, just drop it over quickly and let it cool slowly. Best to heat in an oven or on a hot plate. A lot of mechanics use blow torches but you run the risk of softening the teeth if you overheat a particular spot too much.

The radio has a built in security feature. When power is lost to the radio, it requires you to insert a code to restore the radio to an operational condition. The code came with the car. Look in the glove box, console, and in the owners manual for the code. Do not attempt to guess at the code or you will lock the radio up.

if the car dont start then you should either check spark plug 314 or the igintion of the car has a sortage were it is not getting connection this happen to me in a 1992 cadolac

hopefully you will be installing a new starter...

If your 1994 Nissan Quest won't start, you might have a dead battery or a bad starter. You could also have a tank that is empty of fuel.

it could be the started is shorted out because of the battery being connected backwards

I have never heard of such a thing and I wouldn't recommend it. I have heard of old timers putting a teaspoon of motor oil in their tank when they filled it to preserve valves. I wouldn't recommend that either. If your motor is seized ( you said locked ) this wouldn't help. If your motor is seized you can't turn it by putting a wrench on your crankshaft bolt. This usually means something is wrong in the motor itselfand adding something to your fuel will be fruitless.

If the engine has been sitting for years and is just locked due to non-use, remove all spark plugs and pour 1/2 cup of kerosene in each cylinder. Wait 48 hours see if you can turn it over with a socket and ratchet at the crankshaft. If you can, then change the oil/filter, put the spark plugs back in and see if it will turn over.

If your motor has interference heads do not try to start it with out finding out if it is out of time. If one of these motors is out of time you won't be able to turn it because a piston(s) is touching one of the open valves. Starting it could shoot one of those valves through your valve cover or damage ( or break ) a rod.

If the vehicle has been sitting for years ( as above ) the timing belt is much more prone to breaking. The polymer in the belt conforms to the shape of the pulleys and becomes brittle. Most recommend 4 years or a certain number of miles ( ie 60K for bmw). Consider this if your motor has interference heads; even if it is in time and has been sitting you should probably change the timing belt.

There may be a problem inside the transmission, or the linkage could be loose or disconnected in some way.

Could be several possibilities, one being the timing belt let go.

The computer uses it to control the power supply to the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coil.

The oil pressure switch on a 1995 cutlass supreme is located under the hood front center of the oil pan. It is right beside the oil filter.?æ

Normally it will be noisy. You may also experience hard starting, engine backfire, and poor performance if the chain has jumped a tooth. Chains normally last the life of the engine and are replaced during a complete overhaul.

on the right of the fender under the hood there's a blue relay one relay but two plug's end together you would need to go to the dealer in get one or a salvage yard autopzone and o'reilly's don't Carrie it at all. the relay's are bad about going bad ...

my best guess without actually looking at it would be the ignition coil. sometimes as they get warm the coil can "go open" making it harder to start. try this to see, when the engine is overnight cold, locate the ignition coil by following the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap to the ignition coil. take a hair dryer and blow it on the coil until it is warm to hot to the touch(a heat gun works better and much faster) try to start the car. if you have the same problem as when the engine is hot, you've just identified the problem. a bad coil. the procedure is the same if there is no distributor cap except that there are 2 coils on the drivers side of the cylinder head instead of just one. try the same test just do them one at a time to see which is the problem.

first check fuses inside car,look for location in owners manual....if all fuses are good, then you need to find fuse/relay location under hood....next most likely item that affects different systems is a bad electrical ground.....if the fuses dont fix it, go to a mechanic.

Car battery is run down.

In the carborator if you have one. Otherwise in the air intake.

Starter fluid should be sprayed into the throttle body intake. Spray in small amounts, as the fluid is highly flammable. Any over spray could ignite if the engine backfires.

Most likely your starter has failed. Old school test: Make sure your battery is good and fully charged. Make sure cable connections to battery are clean and tight. Locate the starter and, depending on access, TAP on the main starter body with a hammer, pipe, long 3/8" extension, broom stick, etc. While someone turns the ignition to the start position. If starter engages and cranks the engine or produces grinding noise and will only barely turn over, the starter is bad. There are other possilble causes, but you gotta start somewhere.

sounds like a dead battery clicking indicates a little power getting to starter solenoid test the battery then have starter motor checked failing that, have ignition switch checked Re: the clicking around the shifter area... Do you have your foot on the brake pedal when you turn on the key? There is a shift lockout that is engaged when the shifter is in "park", and you need to press the brake pedal to disengage it. You're probably hearing the lockout actuator when you turn the key. Re: "won't turn over" That's a term that many people find confusing. "Turn over" usually means that the starter engages and turns the engine. Unfortunately, many people use that term to indicate that the engine doesn't start. If the engine doesn't "turn over", you only have a few possibilities to consider... Check the battery and connections. Make sure you're getting a good connection to the starter. If you know someone who can figure it out for you, jumper the starter solenoid DIRECTLY to see if the problem is with the starter. If it won't engage when you jumper the starter, it's either the starter or a connection. You'll only need a small wire between the battery voltage and the SMALL solenoid input. On the other hand, if the starter engages when you go around the other electrical switches, the problem will be the keyswitch, neutral lockout or a bad connection somewhere.