Car Starting Problems

I take that back with apologies. 0720 IS the output sensor, p0727 would be the input

From: Jim M. Auto Zone, NAPPA and Discount Auto Parts sells the Output Speed Sensor for about $16.00 or a little more. It costs $25.00 at the dealer. I checked the code myself, with my own code checker which is very inexpensive, when my engine light came on as my transmission hesitated between first and second gear.

I have a 1999 Dodge 1500 Ram van with a 318 Cubic Inch (5.2 Liter) engine with a four speed (Three speed with Overdrive), transmission. I have 138,000 miles on my van.

The sensor is located near the rear of the transmission on the driver's side and is easily accessible. All you need is a one inch wrench to remove it. The color may vary from grey to white, etc. The wire clamps on to the head of the sensor and comes off very easily. The sensor screws out very easily. When it is removed a small amount of transmission fluid may drip out. Replace the old sensor with the new one by just screwing it in and replacing the wire to the sensor.

Took my code reader and turned the code off. Drove the van down the road and had no problems with it after the sensor replacement. Transmissions shifts quite easily with no hesitation.

After doing some research, found out that the sensor checks the speed of the trans-axle to let the transmission know when to shift. If there is a short-circuit on that sensor, it does not tell the transmission to shift to the next gear and causes the check-engine light to come on. I got around the problem by pressing the accelerator more at first to make it shift, however, I also found out that if I manually shifted from 1st gear to second to third that also worked, until I could get to the auto parts store to buy the sensor. Remember, it is the Output Speed Sensor for the P0720 code.

Only took about 15 minutes to replace.

Thanks (jhmeeinc44@aol.com) thx all solutions the same on 2000 dodge dakota!

When the car battery is dead, you will most likely hear the clicking, while the engine will not start, or will seem to almost start and then shut down. Enough battery power is required to start your vehicle, and keep it functioning. Your alternator should supply some little power for you to replace the battery. If the car doesn't start after you gave some time for the alternator to recharge, and you need to get to your house, or buy a new battery, you can try safely asking another vehicle operator for a battery jump (will require jumper cables). Remember, once the battery is jumped, next time you shut the engine off, you might not be able to start the car again, without it being jumped again. Also, when asking strangers for help with your car, be safe, do it around other people, and don't be pushy.

Blown fuse.

It is possible that (1)your starter is not receiving enough power from the battery, (2)your starter is poorly grounded, or (3) your starter solenoid or starter is bad. Check for power from your battery using a volt meter with the positive lead on the large cable and the negative lead to ground on the chassis, it should be 12 volts. To test if your starter is grounded disconnect your battery ( ground lead first ) then use an ohm meter with one lead on the starter body or starter bolt and the other to the chassis ( not the motor ); the resistance should be minimal. If these check out remove the starter and bench test it with a known fully charged, good battery.

Year, make, model and engine would help but, a bad timing belt or a bad fuel pump could do that.

The battery that fits in a 2003 Saturn L300 is 10 and 3/4 inches in length. The width of the battery is 6 and 7/8 inches and the height is 7 and 1/4 inches. The battery needs to be a 12 volt battery that is a side post battery.

If the car has a manual transmission, it can be "pop started" by pushing it with the clutch disengaged and then throwing it into a low gear while it is moving. Otherwise the starter is crucial to getting the car's engine to turn over.

Free car service manuals can be downloaded from many of the automakers websites. Some auto-parts stores have the car service manuals available on their websites.

Hi, It seems you may have a loose connection on your starter motor.Good luck

I own a '96 Chevy Lumina that has the same problem and it sounds like it is a fairly common problem. I don't actually have the solution, however I know that if I turn the car to the on position and sit for a couple of minutes, then try and crank it over, it will magically start. I was thinking maybe there is just a bad connection or wire somewhere in the ignition system.

If you don't have experinece with air bags, leave it alone and have a professional do it for you. They are dangerous and can kill you if you don't know what to do. I assume you don't have experience with air bags since you've asked the question.

possibly dirty or defective idle control valve. Tried replacing this part but no luck still :( Did the same thing as before

No effect, at all.

Put gas in the tank and try again.

crank or cam sensor...did you already figure it out?

No.

Check with a voltmeter A fully charged battery should read approx. 12.8 volts without engine running When running reading should be approx. 13.8-14.2 volts

My car does this all the time. I am not positive but I was told it has something to do with a glitch in my security/alarm system. You can either manually lock your doors. Count to twenty and then unlock the door with your key which is supposed to reset the security or you can reset the battery.

Put the w wire back to where you got it. Now take a volt meter and determine if you have power between R and the common terminal (usually a blue wire or the C terminal). If you have 24V there is no problem with the tstat. You now must check the condensing unit(the one outside), and check for 24V. If you have voltage, check your breaker box or the outdoor disconnect box. You cannot leave the w wire on RC. What did you do with the RED wire that was on RC?

It could be a dead battery.

If you've got a 2.2 L single-point fuel injection engine and you're not getting power to the boost pump then you need to drop the tank and replace it. Confirm this first by listening for a whirring noise out of the tank when you first turn the key to ON. If no sound and all relays and fuses are good then lower the tank and check for voltage at the pump connection. If there is voltage, the pump is at fault. Replace it. A OEM pump will run you about $140-150, depending on your source. No voltage in the feed line? Find the break and repair it. Retest. Hope that helps

There could be many problems. Is the car turning over but not starting? Does the car do nothing at all when you turn the ignition? Could be anything from a bad alternator to ignition switch or even a fuel pump or something. You need to be more specific.

Sorry this isn't a comprehensive answer, with any car in that situation i'd be thinking immobilizer if it has one, most cars will allow it to crank a few times but not spark- so it never starts. hhope this might help you on right track

If all of the other remote functions work, the problem is most likely in the truck. Check all of the connections and the relay that control the remote starter functions of the truck.

Check your starter. The insulating bushing could be worn or damaged causing a huge drain on battery when you try to start the engine.

It could also be a short with one of your lights or seat