Car Starting Problems

Check with a voltmeter A fully charged battery should read approx. 12.8 volts without engine running When running reading should be approx. 13.8-14.2 volts

My car does this all the time. I am not positive but I was told it has something to do with a glitch in my security/alarm system. You can either manually lock your doors. Count to twenty and then unlock the door with your key which is supposed to reset the security or you can reset the battery.

Put the w wire back to where you got it. Now take a volt meter and determine if you have power between R and the common terminal (usually a blue wire or the C terminal). If you have 24V there is no problem with the tstat. You now must check the condensing unit(the one outside), and check for 24V. If you have voltage, check your breaker box or the outdoor disconnect box. You cannot leave the w wire on RC. What did you do with the RED wire that was on RC?

It could be a dead battery.

If you've got a 2.2 L single-point fuel injection engine and you're not getting power to the boost pump then you need to drop the tank and replace it. Confirm this first by listening for a whirring noise out of the tank when you first turn the key to ON. If no sound and all relays and fuses are good then lower the tank and check for voltage at the pump connection. If there is voltage, the pump is at fault. Replace it. A OEM pump will run you about $140-150, depending on your source. No voltage in the feed line? Find the break and repair it. Retest. Hope that helps

There could be many problems. Is the car turning over but not starting? Does the car do nothing at all when you turn the ignition? Could be anything from a bad alternator to ignition switch or even a fuel pump or something. You need to be more specific.

Sorry this isn't a comprehensive answer, with any car in that situation i'd be thinking immobilizer if it has one, most cars will allow it to crank a few times but not spark- so it never starts. hhope this might help you on right track

If all of the other remote functions work, the problem is most likely in the truck. Check all of the connections and the relay that control the remote starter functions of the truck.

Check your starter. The insulating bushing could be worn or damaged causing a huge drain on battery when you try to start the engine.

It could also be a short with one of your lights or seat

When does it click and does it Crank when it is clicking

Most of the time i have experienced this type of situation is caused by the spark control module. Usually it will do it after the motor gets warmed Up,then the spark control gets warm and expands internally and will quit working until it cools back down. That is why it seems funny that at one moment it works, then the next it quits. If the cars runs great when first started up and then suddenly quits after it warms up , then restarts after it sits for a few minutes and cools off, i would start with the spark control..Some times they can be tested at auto zone for free, if this is a reoccurring thing, the spark control module will only get worse until it quits working altogether,my advice is to replace the module if it is more than 8-10 years old...and you are having these kind of issues..Its allot better than being stranded in the middle of nowhere, and having a dishonest mechanic take advantage of the situation...

Well to start off there is many things this could be. Some of the most common ones are actually pretty simple to fix.

The first thing i would try is taking off your battery cables and refitting them on. Sometimes corrosion, a bad cable, or a broken adjuster cause it to not have a good connection.

The Second thing i would try is charging the battery. Most modern cars have a safety built in that when the car gets to a certain Voltage/Amperage, they make it click to let you know that it needs charged.

The third thing i would try, if all that fails, is tapping your starter solenoid with a hammer. the gears inside the solenoid usually tear down after a few years of starting and get stuck. If you don't know anything about cars this could be kind of hard to do. ts usually right on the front of the engine block next to your transmission cooler, that's attached to your radiator. You should see a big cylinder with a little cylinder attached to it. The little cylinder is your solenoid.

Good Luck

I had the same problem. I took it to a mechanic and they told me it was the ignition switch.

could be disdributor

when that cable is getting very hot that means it need to make a better contact to the metal or is too dirty. try to clean it.

The problem is in the fuel system, change the filter first, if that's not the cure change the fuel pump.

Try replacing any fuel filters the car has. If that does not work you will most likely need to put it on a diognostics scope.It would help to know if the car is cold, warm, hot, or any thing else it does prior to stalling.You can put that info. in my message board if you wish.Also if you choose to put it on a scope it will more then likely need to have that symtom @ the time of testing or the computer more then likely not detect the problem. Thanks WALSH

You have to get the VATS checked by a dealer service department or you can try for an open or short to ground in the VATS decoder module circuit

I had same problem. Bought a used distributor from a boneyard and it fired right up.

Yes if it is stuck closed.

By the flywheel/flexplate pass side.. Just follow positive batt cable to the end.

Fuel filter clogged, fuel pump not running caused by either blown fuse, faulty fuel pump relay, or bad or weak fuel pump.

That information is unavailable until the 1995 Neon. I hope you didn't buy a 1984 Neon .

the one from the starter goes on the post on the right, the small one with the slide goes on one of the posts in the front cant remember wich but you wont burn it up if you get it wrong, the rest of them go on the post on the left

Hi, I have a 92 Camry v6LE with the same problem, now on 3 windows. It just slides down and won't come up. I'm just now opening up the window to look inside, and as far as I can tell the cable is not doing what it should; it's loose. I wish there were a description about how this is supposed to work, so I could tell what's wrong. Sorry this isn't an answer, but it could point to where to look: possibly the cable mechanism is screwed up.