Car Starting Problems

When does it click and does it Crank when it is clicking

Most of the time i have experienced this type of situation is caused by the spark control module. Usually it will do it after the motor gets warmed Up,then the spark control gets warm and expands internally and will quit working until it cools back down. That is why it seems funny that at one moment it works, then the next it quits. If the cars runs great when first started up and then suddenly quits after it warms up , then restarts after it sits for a few minutes and cools off, i would start with the spark control..Some times they can be tested at auto zone for free, if this is a reoccurring thing, the spark control module will only get worse until it quits working altogether,my advice is to replace the module if it is more than 8-10 years old...and you are having these kind of issues..Its allot better than being stranded in the middle of nowhere, and having a dishonest mechanic take advantage of the situation...

Well to start off there is many things this could be. Some of the most common ones are actually pretty simple to fix.

The first thing i would try is taking off your battery cables and refitting them on. Sometimes corrosion, a bad cable, or a broken adjuster cause it to not have a good connection.

The Second thing i would try is charging the battery. Most modern cars have a safety built in that when the car gets to a certain Voltage/Amperage, they make it click to let you know that it needs charged.

The third thing i would try, if all that fails, is tapping your starter solenoid with a hammer. the gears inside the solenoid usually tear down after a few years of starting and get stuck. If you don't know anything about cars this could be kind of hard to do. ts usually right on the front of the engine block next to your transmission cooler, that's attached to your radiator. You should see a big cylinder with a little cylinder attached to it. The little cylinder is your solenoid.

Good Luck

I had the same problem. I took it to a mechanic and they told me it was the ignition switch.

could be disdributor

when that cable is getting very hot that means it need to make a better contact to the metal or is too dirty. try to clean it.

The problem is in the fuel system, change the filter first, if that's not the cure change the fuel pump.

Try replacing any fuel filters the car has. If that does not work you will most likely need to put it on a diognostics scope.It would help to know if the car is cold, warm, hot, or any thing else it does prior to stalling.You can put that info. in my message board if you wish.Also if you choose to put it on a scope it will more then likely need to have that symtom @ the time of testing or the computer more then likely not detect the problem. Thanks WALSH

You have to get the VATS checked by a dealer service department or you can try for an open or short to ground in the VATS decoder module circuit

I had same problem. Bought a used distributor from a boneyard and it fired right up.

Yes if it is stuck closed.

By the flywheel/flexplate pass side.. Just follow positive batt cable to the end.

Fuel filter clogged, fuel pump not running caused by either blown fuse, faulty fuel pump relay, or bad or weak fuel pump.

That information is unavailable until the 1995 Neon. I hope you didn't buy a 1984 Neon .

the one from the starter goes on the post on the right, the small one with the slide goes on one of the posts in the front cant remember wich but you wont burn it up if you get it wrong, the rest of them go on the post on the left

Hi, I have a 92 Camry v6LE with the same problem, now on 3 windows. It just slides down and won't come up. I'm just now opening up the window to look inside, and as far as I can tell the cable is not doing what it should; it's loose. I wish there were a description about how this is supposed to work, so I could tell what's wrong. Sorry this isn't an answer, but it could point to where to look: possibly the cable mechanism is screwed up.

It will probably be your starter motor Starter is out!

Cheaper to turn it off.

Probably a weak battery or the starter drive is stuck.

It can. It can also be uneven fuel supply, poor tuning. Older engines sometimes show their age by stalling under a heavy load at low rpm. Why is the battery poor?

Bad coil or coil pack.

is the fuel filter istalled correctly in from fuel line out to engine. PS won't be the first person to install it backwards

I think (I don't know for sure) that it may have something to do with the way remote car starters are designed -in particular, the units' signal receiving device (what ever the discreetly attached antenna, usually on the upper corner of the windshield inside your car cabin, thingy is called).

I noticed that the LED flashes very brightly, and/or stays lit -equally bright depending on the mode its in (24/7, whenever the vehicle is not being driven. While driving the said LED is not on, thank God). This LED can literally light up a darken single garage to the point where you'd be able walk without needing to turn on the garage light (that is the case with my remote starter unit, and it's a 2013 model).

Therefore, I think perhaps one might be able to draw one conclusion; that such a constant drain on the car battery can't be healthy over time for the battery's overall health -as the LED is constantly using up power (despite the fact that the car battery does "self-replenish").

This is LED "issue" is certainly one contribution that I can think of even without any knowledge of electronics.

I hope I am wrong about this, cause I have the same concern. : )

Well, if you were messing with the coil pack, and if the Ignition Control Module is actually inside the coils, then the signal from the crankshaft position sensor will be fed to it, so that it knows when to fire. You may have knocked off that sensor plugin by accident. A vehicle will not fire without a crankshaft position sensor. A camshaft position sensor is a different story though. Since your car is a 1999, you should be able to cycle the key on, crank the engine, cycle key off, cycle on/off, and on the third time, your engine will start with no camshaft sensor. I would get a spark tester though if I were you and I would see if any spark plugs are firing at all. If there is zero firing, then its more then likely your CKP (Crankshaft sensor)

Where are the jump start terminals under the hood on a 2003 e320