Car Starting Problems

Try replacing any fuel filters the car has. If that does not work you will most likely need to put it on a diognostics scope.It would help to know if the car is cold, warm, hot, or any thing else it does prior to stalling.You can put that info. in my message board if you wish.Also if you choose to put it on a scope it will more then likely need to have that symtom @ the time of testing or the computer more then likely not detect the problem. Thanks WALSH

You have to get the VATS checked by a dealer service department or you can try for an open or short to ground in the VATS decoder module circuit

I had same problem. Bought a used distributor from a boneyard and it fired right up.

Yes if it is stuck closed.

By the flywheel/flexplate pass side.. Just follow positive batt cable to the end.

Fuel filter clogged, fuel pump not running caused by either blown fuse, faulty fuel pump relay, or bad or weak fuel pump.

That information is unavailable until the 1995 Neon. I hope you didn't buy a 1984 Neon .

the one from the starter goes on the post on the right, the small one with the slide goes on one of the posts in the front cant remember wich but you wont burn it up if you get it wrong, the rest of them go on the post on the left

Hi, I have a 92 Camry v6LE with the same problem, now on 3 windows. It just slides down and won't come up. I'm just now opening up the window to look inside, and as far as I can tell the cable is not doing what it should; it's loose. I wish there were a description about how this is supposed to work, so I could tell what's wrong. Sorry this isn't an answer, but it could point to where to look: possibly the cable mechanism is screwed up.

It will probably be your starter motor Starter is out!

Probably a weak battery or the starter drive is stuck.

Cheaper to turn it off.

It can. It can also be uneven fuel supply, poor tuning. Older engines sometimes show their age by stalling under a heavy load at low rpm. Why is the battery poor?

Bad coil or coil pack.

is the fuel filter istalled correctly in from fuel line out to engine. PS won't be the first person to install it backwards

I think (I don't know for sure) that it may have something to do with the way remote car starters are designed -in particular, the units' signal receiving device (what ever the discreetly attached antenna, usually on the upper corner of the windshield inside your car cabin, thingy is called).

I noticed that the LED flashes very brightly, and/or stays lit -equally bright depending on the mode its in (24/7, whenever the vehicle is not being driven. While driving the said LED is not on, thank God). This LED can literally light up a darken single garage to the point where you'd be able walk without needing to turn on the garage light (that is the case with my remote starter unit, and it's a 2013 model).

Therefore, I think perhaps one might be able to draw one conclusion; that such a constant drain on the car battery can't be healthy over time for the battery's overall health -as the LED is constantly using up power (despite the fact that the car battery does "self-replenish").

This is LED "issue" is certainly one contribution that I can think of even without any knowledge of electronics.

I hope I am wrong about this, cause I have the same concern. : )

Well, if you were messing with the coil pack, and if the Ignition Control Module is actually inside the coils, then the signal from the crankshaft position sensor will be fed to it, so that it knows when to fire. You may have knocked off that sensor plugin by accident. A vehicle will not fire without a crankshaft position sensor. A camshaft position sensor is a different story though. Since your car is a 1999, you should be able to cycle the key on, crank the engine, cycle key off, cycle on/off, and on the third time, your engine will start with no camshaft sensor. I would get a spark tester though if I were you and I would see if any spark plugs are firing at all. If there is zero firing, then its more then likely your CKP (Crankshaft sensor)

Where are the jump start terminals under the hood on a 2003 e320

ck your oil level make sure it is up to the top line........................you have a clasped lifter does it quite down when it gets warm

Sounds like a battery problem. Check the battery. Clean and tighten the battery terminals and cable ends.

Drivers side, bottom of the motor, beside oil pan really close to the front of the transmission. Follow the red (+) wire from the battery and it will lead you to the starter.

I am working on the same problem in a 1999 Elantra Wagon, and have read that it could be the crank sensor. Hope this helps. here are a couple of possiblities: bad crank sensor, broken or jumped timing belt, bad fuel pump, bad cam sensor. Answer was this the only problem or was the transmission not shifting before too?

An injector is probably sticking and causing "wash down". Gasoline can then leak past the cylinder walls and get into the oil. That much fuel in the cylinder will make it impossible to start the engine. I'd also check the fuel pressure regulator

NO unless you use to much in one shot it could bend your push rods (vapor lock) little amounts of ether will not harm it

oh ya one more thing never use ether if you are using the glow plugs

A loud fast clicking noise is usually indicative of a low battery or a loose cable.