Check Engine Light

CHECK THE TIMING

This is not a question that someone should be asking as there are numerous trouble codes that will illuminate the check engine light. You dont "replace" the check engine light. You fix what's causing the light to come on, then reset the engine computer by pulling the main fuse under the hood. If you've properly taken care of the problem causing the light to come on then the light won't re-light. It's always best to reset the engine computer as a first step as sometimes the engine will do something to illuminate the light then resolve itself. Normally on an older Civic the cause is a worn out O2 sensor.

depends on the model of your TL TL premium

1999 - 2003 = J32A1 TL Type S

2001 - 2003 = J32A2

Incident light is the light that falls from the source onto the subject. It is usually measured with a hand-held instrument (often digital, these days) called an incident-light meter. Readings are usually taken from the subject's position, with the receptor-cell of the meter facing back toward the camera. Some incident-light meters are dedicated to that function. Others can measure "reflected" light (light that is reflected from the subject) and have a module for measuring incident light as well.

Did you car just hit a mile marker 50,000 / 100,000 ? "Maintenance required" lights are, for the most part, to protect the manufactor when people do not maintain their car as they should. As long as the "check engine" light is not on,{ this light is important}. Remove the maintenance required lightbulb.

Disconnect the battery cable for 10 minutes.

There is no OBD connection on a 1990 Nissan as that is an OBD1 vehicle not OBD2. However there is a way to read the codes. https://codes.rennacs.com/Petrol-Engine/Japanese-Korean/Nissan-Engines.php

it is on because the ECU has detected a problem with the emissions system.

The "check engine" light is a catch all indication that "something" is wrong. All it really tells you is that you need to go to someone who had a computer that can read the detailed diagnostic codes from your car to find out what is wrong. It doesn't indicate any one particular problem.

A flashing check engine light means you are doing serious damage to your catalytic converter due to repeated misfires in one or more cylinders. If you get a code scanner (or go to an autozone, oreilly's etc. where they scan it for free) you will see a code such as P0301 (misfire, cylinder 1). Your catalytic converter is probably shot now. If it is and If you live in a state that does emissions inspections you will need to get the converter replaced after you fix the misfires. An old spark plug will generally cause the misfires.

It's a "slight" evaporative emmisions leak.

These minivans seem to have an issue with the gas caps, most of the people I've heard of bought an after market gas cap to make it go away, a couple just made sure they tighted their gas caps better. If it's not that, then take it to a mechanic.

(After changing the gas cap take off the neg batt terminal for say an hour to reset the codes, if it still turns up, talk to a mechanic.)

call your local parts store

DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE

tune up. check wires and plugs possible worn connection and arching off where it should not be.

There are pages and pages and items that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked for codes with a scan tool. After repair light can be shut off with scan tool.

Computer has detected a problem with the emissions controls. Fix ASAP. Generally this is an emission problem, it could be something as simple as your fuel cap is not on or it could be much more costly such as an O2 sensor. If the light is just "on" the problem is not critical, but you can not pass emission testing. If the light is "flashing" you should head straight for the dealer for repair. One quick fix - this has worked for me twice - is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, this will re-set your computer and might turn the light off. answer take it to a auto parts store (auto zone ) they will put a computer on it and it will read a code and tell u the problem is. they should not charge u for it You may also check the wires leading to the rear O2 sensor. They pass over the drive shaft held in place by a clip. The clip hasbeen known to come loose and allow the wires to drop onto the drive shaft. They will then wear and cause the check engine light to come on.

YOU HAVE TO GET DEALER OR SERVICE (MOT GUY) TO RESET OR BUY A GIZMO FROM THE USA ABOUT �80 WHICH WILL RESET ALL B,MS (SO YOU COULD MAKE YOUR MONEY BACK? This is not true for bmw's of this era all you need is some wire (like a coat hanger) and a bit of internet research to simulate the "gizmo" unfortunately I've lost the link from when i did it shortly after purchasing mine. Look for the forums specific to this era of 3 series.

It depends on what you mean by going off and on. If it happens like a flashing light (check engine) It will not be low coolant. It usually mean that you have a random missfire and that it is bad enough of a missfire that it is damaging your catalytic converter. You need to get to an auto parts store that will check your trouble codes.

You need a OBD II code scanner. One can be purchased from your local auto parts store for under $100 and it comes with instructions and a list of codes and their meaning, or you can drive to most of your local auto parts stores and they will read your codes at no cost.

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

The check engine light is a notification that the computer has detected a problem. You need to connect a diagnostic scanner to the vehicle and see what the code is saying.

The "Check Engine" light is a diagnostic indicator showing that the On Board Diagnostic computer has detected a problem and has saved the trouble code. You can get the trouble code from the OBD system using a special computer attachment. Most auto parts stores will get the trouble code for you for free (and be happy to sell you the part that would need to be replaced.) Check the trouble code to insure that it is referring to a flow issue. If the electrical system is at fault, consult your service manual for the proper test.

There are 2 screws under the radio 7mm right above the climate controls. Then you can pull the bezel out. Then there are 3 screws above the cluster. You will need to take off the kick panel under the stearing wheel. There is 4 screws for that peice. 2 of them are hiding under the hood latch. Then steel plate under the kick panel remove the 2 top screws and you will have room to see the 2 other screws for the intrument bezel. Once the screws are out gently pull the cluster bezel off and discount the headligh hareness. Then I find it easier to disconnect the 3 connectors behind the cluster and you will see a bunch of white or black plastic twist off. Those are where the ligh bulbs are.

There could be any number of causes, depending on the vehicle. Sometimes they just want you to take the car in for service to have the oil changed. Other times it could be the MAP sensor, oxygen sensor or some other intermittent problem. Get a code reader for your vehicle and plug it in during that 2 day period when the light comes on. Follow the instructions in the code reader manual to find out what's going on. The internal computer knows what it thinks is going on and is more than willing to tell you if you get and use a code reader. I had this problem and it was my EGR valve which is about a $65.00 part if you have a mechanic friend that can help you. We also changed my gas cap, which did not work by the way.

Either be patient with the mechanic and try hard to understand what he is telling you. Many of my customers jump to the conclusion "that nothing shows up" after explaining what is happening in that particular situation.

There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.

Yes, a loose gas cap will cause the MIL light to go on, but tighening it will turn it off after a few restarts. Mechanics, even SAE certified mechanics generally do not know how to diagnose a MIL problem. Normally, each MIL code has a diagnostic procedure, e.g. flow charts with diagnostic steps. Dealers have this information but, for obvious reasons, do not share it with the public or with non-dealer repair shops. Nevertheless, the latter type repair shops should not guess at the problem, but should obtain this information rather than use "stab in the dark" techniques. Example: I had a MIL code that indicated High Voltage on a Particular O2 sensor. Sometimes the O2 sensor is the problem, but not always. After (stupidly) replacing the Oxegen sensor multiple times and not solving the problem, the mechanics assumed the problem had to be the computer or something else. after doing research, I learned the a higfh voltage on an O2 sensor means the fuel mixture is too rich. After checking the vacuum ports and air intake and air filter, I discovered a defective air Temp sensor and replaced it, solving the problem. I am really upset with the mechanics for not finding this, and for guessing (not knowing) what the problem really is. Don't believe anything the mechanics tell you, because remember, it's not their money, it;s yours.