Check Engine Light

light means there is a fault picked up by ecu.error code must be retrieved and analised.Once repaired the light will go off.

disconnect the battery for about 30 sec then reconnect it

auto elec tech need cost about 40 to 45 pounds

Found this ibn the web and it is about right:

1. Put key in ignition switch.

2. Press the reset button for the trip distance recorder while turning the ignition key to position 1 and continue holding till the word tESt appearsin the display.

3. Release and Press and hold the button again and A FLASHING "rSt" (reset) will appear in the window. WHILE IT IS FLASHING PRESS THE BUTTON AGAIN AND IT WILL READOUT 15500 MILES

With a scan tool.

Haynes manuals have the codes in them,according to how many times the chec engine light flashes.OR advance auto parts will scan it for FREE

Did you try key on, key off, key on, key off, key on, key of? It works on my 2000 Dodge Intrepid

The scan tool is call an OBD 2 .it stands for On Board Diagnostis. it scans codes for check engine light , or use it any time your car is not running good. the codes appear across the scan view, and it give code # and most time where problem is. use haynes manual if tool does,nt tell you the problem. it also comes with a comp.disc which has "ALL" the codes. this will make you a home mechanic. great thing to buy

the connection for the scanner is located just under the passenger dash. toward the front. it is a 12 point connection

Code 1406 is EGR Valve Pintle Position Circuit Error. As far as your EGR "pintle position" code is concerned. Your EGR valve is sticking or malfunctioning. Remove and CAREFULLY clean the EGR valve shaft and it's passages in the engine and reinstall with a NEW gasket. If this does not resolve the problem, replace the EGR valve.

There are pages and pages of theings that can turn the check engine ligth on, you need to have it checked for codes. Another way to look at it, there is only ONE reason for the check engine light to come on, that being, the computer has detected a problem. You don't NECESSARILY need to HAVE it checked, since you can do that yourself. Go to just about any auto parts retailer where you can borrow, rent our buy an engine code scanner. Some of the more helpful places will even help you plug it in and decide what it means if they aren't terribly busy, and if you can drive the vehicle to their parking lot. But in general, you'll need to use a code scanner to find out why the computer has turned on the light. It's just the computer's way of saying, "HEY! YOU... BEHIND THE WHEEL THERE! PAY ATTENTION TO ME!"

P035x series codes indicate the PCM has detected a fault in the primary circuit of the ignition coil #x. For P0355, this indicates #5 ignition coil. The most common (by far) cause is a faulty ignition coil, but it can also be caused by a problem in the wiring or in the PCM itself.

Unplug the electrical connector at coil #5 and connect a 12V test light in place of the coil. With the test light in place, have someone else start the engine. If the test light blinks, you need to replace that coil and it's corresponding spark plug to correct the problem. In almost all cases, you will see the test light blink.

If test light does not blink:

If the test light does not blink, you may have another problem. With key on engine stopped, check for power at one terminal of the connector. If there is no power, you have either a broken wire or short to ground on that wire.

With engine running, check for ground at one terminal of the connector to the coil. Test light should blink. Steady on indicated electrical short to ground on that wire. Steady off indicates: open circuit or short to power or bad PCM. To test for short to power, check for 12v+ (or more than 1V+) on that wire.

The problem is " P0172 System Too Rich - Bank No. 1 " That's going to be your oxygen sensor before the cat... it has gone bad. Replace it. http://www.fordf150.net/howto/eecvcodes.php

Trouble code P1155 means: A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction

Check the gas cap, if it is off or loose between 1/4 to 3/4 tank of gas it will set a evap code, thus setting the check engine light. It will take awhile to clear the code and turn the light off

The check engine light on a BMW 525i is reset by pressing the trip reset button until the engine icon appears. The Check and DC buttons are used to navigate between menus and the trip button held to actual reset the selected error.

I suspect your hold switch on the shift lever might be bad..or ahs a broken wire.

what type of vehicle is it if GM product on the driver side fuse panel

remove battery cable for 1 min

Have vehicle scanned to determine problem and have codes cleared Auto parts store can do this

I don't believe you (as an operator) can "reset" the check engine light. A mechanic can probably reset it using the port that actually draws the code which caused the failure. When my check engine light came on, I did what the owners manual indicated and just tried a few more tanks of gas (manual indicated that a bad tank of gas might be the problem, or the gas cap might not be installed correctly). After a tank and a half, light went out and hasn't been back on since.

Usally that means the battery has been disconnected within the last 10 starts

P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

The code 43 is an old two digit code that could mean numerous things. You need to have it checked with an obd scan tool to find out the four digit "p" code. example (p0301) is cylinder #1 misfire.

43 could be a misfire, a coil circuit problem, or a PCM power supply issue. That covers at least 7 "p" codes.

Using contaminated fuel can cause an engine misfire which will turn on the check engine light. A faulty gas cap can for sure turn on the light.

P0506 Idle Air Control System RPM Lower Than Expected

I don't have an answer, but do have a similar problem, with my 1998 GC 3L. In my case, the pending codes seem to be a Cyl 2, Cyl3 and Mutli Random misfire. However, final code is usually Cyl 2 misfire. Mine always happens at 6mph and when the van is slowing down. I have tried the basis, compression, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button. Also replaced #2 injector. No change. We do not feel any missing. Van runs very smooth. I am beginning to think it is a computer/sensor problem. It is very strange to me that it ALWAYS happens at 6mph and slowing down. This is based on the frozen data.

i would check to see if the o2 sensors have gone bad they will throw you a check engine light when they go out

I have the same problem. It is the transmission.

I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer and shortly after the Service Engine Soon light came on, my transmission started "slipping" between 1st and 2nd on an automatic. This only happens when the car gets warm on trips longer then about 15 miles.

you've got big problems take it to a shop The engine is mis-firing, and allowing unburned fuel to get to the catalytic converter. IT may cause it permanent damage if it melts down. DON"T DRIVE IT IN THIS STATE. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights