Check Engine Light

Best solution would be to replace the O2 or oxygen sensor first to see if this eliminates your problem. If not, replace your front catalytic converter and oxygen sensor.

Forgot to mention, this is done without your vehicle requiring a basic tuneup (spark plugs, oil change and maybe spark wires, etc.).

The Bill of Rights.

You should look through the users manual to find out how to do this. It can give you the step by step directions to do it correctly.

P0700 : EATX code present.

This code just means that the engine computer has been notified that the transmission computer has detected a problem and set a code. You will need to have the transmission computer checked for codes.

Connect an OBD2 scan tool which will retrieve the codes set by the ECU. If you mean how to check to see if the light is working just turn the key on without starting the engine. The check engine light will illuminate.

The OBD II scanner is an on-board diagnostic tool. It is a device that can read trouble codes when connected to a vehicle's computer. The OBD II scanner will only work on automobiles manufactured in 1996 and later.

take it to your mechanic so he can run a diagnostic.

to reset "check engine light"- (on '05 freestyle)

remove the negative cable from the battery for at least 20 min.

It worked for me

Trouble code P0171 means: Fuel System Too Lean - Bank 1

# Turn your car on -- make sure you are see the odometer -- not the "trip meter" but the actual mileage odometer. # Turn your car off. press the odometer button down, while you turn your car on. The numbers will turn into "--" one by one until all gone. Then it is reset.

Code 301 is cylinder # 1 misfire. You don't need to keep replacing coil packs until you find out why they are going bad. Now if you are buying these coils at a parts store that sells inferior foreign made parts, "can't say the name", then this may very well be the problem. If you know this is not the case, then take this to a technician that can see why they are going bad. The coils are going bad for a reason. Find that reason and problem solved.

There is no reason why you would want to disconnect your check engine light, it is there to warn you that there is a problem. All you need to do is have a free test run on it at your local auto parts store, they will tell you whats wrong and then you can fix it.

However, there are in fact plenty of reasons why you would want it disconnected. For example, when it lights up for no apparent reason frequently, and/or is aesthetically unappealing. Who wants to run to an "auto parts store" to have it serviced every time the light comes on, usually for no reason?

Have plugs and wires checked...if faulty (will cause one or more cylindars to not work) you can replace them yourself. Many internet pictoral tutorials. Dealer will charge $500+. Also, there is an automatic extended warranty on catalytic converter: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/recall/vw2.htm

The "not starting" and "hesitation" sounds like a tired fuel pump. Try getting a fuel pressure system test done. It's a simple gauge that is hooked up to the fuel rail and will tell you the car's running fuel pressure in BAR. If the fuel pressure, while the car is running, is sporadic or low (less than 3 BAR I think) then the fuel pump most likely needs to be replaced. As for the backfiring, sounds like a timing issue but I have input on that.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or

First, you have to find out why it's on, repair the problem, then the computer will often reset itself. If it doesn't, you may need to connect an onboard diagnostic scanner. Just unhook the battery for a few mins... and it will go off if the problem is fixed

Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. May reset the light--if problem persists light will come back on

That's the computer's way of saying "read my codes". You can borrow, rent or buy a code scanner from most auto parts retailers. Any time the light comes on like that it's indicating that the computer has detected a "fault code" meaning that something is wrong. The computer can tell you exactly what it means. There really is no way to guess and be anywhere near accurate, but probabilities are: oxygen sensor, EGR valve, map/maf sensor, misfire or any of a number of potential problems. The computer is trying to give you the best possible fuel economy and minimize emissions. If the computer has detected a fault it will be unable to be as effective.

It means that your alternator is on it's way out. Same thing happened to me on a Liteace.

When the bank has not enough funds in the relevant account or the account holder requests that the cheque is bounced (under exceptional circumstances) then the bank will return the cheque to the account holder. The beneficiary of the cheque will have not been paid. This normally incurs a fee from the bank.

It is very easy to reset the check engine light on a 2002 Volkswagen Cabrio. The negative battery cable can be taken off for one minute and replaced to reset the light.

OBDII-equipped ECUs can be "reset", which turns off the MIL light, but it also erases drive cycle data and inspection will not pass till data is collected again.

Drive cycle data is collected by running car in a particular pattern or just by driving it for a period of time, but if catalyst is bad -- light will come on as soon as data is collected.

Aftermarket catalysts are not "that" expensive nowadays -- if it is still the original one from factory -- just get it replaced. Or you can fill best gas you can find and add one of those "guaranteed to pass" snake oils -- I doubt it will help though.

Another possible bugger can be oxygen sensor (there are two, before and after catalyst) -- they often get ceramic tube broken inside (may "rattle" when removed, but sometimes it just has a crack and won't "rattle", but still broken). Those can be checked by looking at OBDII data for a sensor -- it should jump up and down (very fast, tens of Hz) from about 0.5V to about 0.95V for working sensor. OBDII scanner shows "samples" taken at a slow rate (1 Hz or so) -- so you want to observe readings for a while and to note max and min readings. Mechanic with oscilloscope will be able to tell if O2 sensor is good for sure.