Check Engine Light

The check engine light is a notification that the computer has detected a problem. You need to connect a diagnostic scanner to the vehicle and see what the code is saying.

The "Check Engine" light is a diagnostic indicator showing that the On Board Diagnostic computer has detected a problem and has saved the trouble code. You can get the trouble code from the OBD system using a special computer attachment. Most auto parts stores will get the trouble code for you for free (and be happy to sell you the part that would need to be replaced.) Check the trouble code to insure that it is referring to a flow issue. If the electrical system is at fault, consult your service manual for the proper test.

There are 2 screws under the radio 7mm right above the climate controls. Then you can pull the bezel out. Then there are 3 screws above the cluster. You will need to take off the kick panel under the stearing wheel. There is 4 screws for that peice. 2 of them are hiding under the hood latch. Then steel plate under the kick panel remove the 2 top screws and you will have room to see the 2 other screws for the intrument bezel. Once the screws are out gently pull the cluster bezel off and discount the headligh hareness. Then I find it easier to disconnect the 3 connectors behind the cluster and you will see a bunch of white or black plastic twist off. Those are where the ligh bulbs are.

There could be any number of causes, depending on the vehicle. Sometimes they just want you to take the car in for service to have the oil changed. Other times it could be the MAP sensor, oxygen sensor or some other intermittent problem. Get a code reader for your vehicle and plug it in during that 2 day period when the light comes on. Follow the instructions in the code reader manual to find out what's going on. The internal computer knows what it thinks is going on and is more than willing to tell you if you get and use a code reader. I had this problem and it was my EGR valve which is about a $65.00 part if you have a mechanic friend that can help you. We also changed my gas cap, which did not work by the way.

Either be patient with the mechanic and try hard to understand what he is telling you. Many of my customers jump to the conclusion "that nothing shows up" after explaining what is happening in that particular situation.

There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.

Yes, a loose gas cap will cause the MIL light to go on, but tighening it will turn it off after a few restarts. Mechanics, even SAE certified mechanics generally do not know how to diagnose a MIL problem. Normally, each MIL code has a diagnostic procedure, e.g. flow charts with diagnostic steps. Dealers have this information but, for obvious reasons, do not share it with the public or with non-dealer repair shops. Nevertheless, the latter type repair shops should not guess at the problem, but should obtain this information rather than use "stab in the dark" techniques. Example: I had a MIL code that indicated High Voltage on a Particular O2 sensor. Sometimes the O2 sensor is the problem, but not always. After (stupidly) replacing the Oxegen sensor multiple times and not solving the problem, the mechanics assumed the problem had to be the computer or something else. after doing research, I learned the a higfh voltage on an O2 sensor means the fuel mixture is too rich. After checking the vacuum ports and air intake and air filter, I discovered a defective air Temp sensor and replaced it, solving the problem. I am really upset with the mechanics for not finding this, and for guessing (not knowing) what the problem really is. Don't believe anything the mechanics tell you, because remember, it's not their money, it;s yours.

Disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 seconds.

Don't know what year, make or model you have but if you continue to drive that vehicle with the service engine flashing it may do serious damage to the catalytic converter(s).

Best to start off with hooking it to a scan tool. Verify which/how many cylinders to prevent you from wasting your money on "possible causes". Also there might be other codes that can guide you to the cause( I.E. sensor malfunction). You can perform a tune up, to rule out wires/cap, etc., it Might be time for it anyway. Also check if the plenum gasket is blown. Next would be to check the fuel pressure for a faulty pump/regulator, clogged fuel filter. these would be a good place to start. From there I would start checking compression/leak down. Using these I've found a broken exhaust vavle spring as the cause of a misfire on a sohc v6 explorer. Good luck

most times ford puts a chart in the owners manual for newer cars and trucks i would look there

It's a common error especially after the battery has been disconnected or gone completely dead. It usually means that the computer needs to be reset. You may need to take it to the dealer or a knowledgeable shop.

http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/1WiringCodes$12.95.htm

If you are referring to the Service Engine Soon/Check Engine Soon light it can only be safely shut off with a code scanner. All cars manufactured after 1996 have OBD-II computer systems and they all work pretty much the same. You can purchase a scanner for under $100.00 at auto parts stores or even get the scan done free at major auto parts stores like Advance Auto or PepBoys. Do not try disconnecting the battery to clear the code because it will erase the trouble code and it will likely come on again if the problem isn't fixed. Disconnecting the battery will also erase system settings made by the computer for the engine to run properly and will take quite a while to reset. In the meantime your car will not be running at optimum perfomance and may even run rough. If you ignore the light you may do serious damage to your engine or emissions system that is expensive to fix. Don't put it off or you may regret it. Good luck.

In handbook. If you can describe the light and post it on here i might be able to shine some light on it for you. Hope this helps

water could have gotten into the spark plug holes. water + spark= no good. Only a few spark plugs could be firing, take them out, and check for water.

you need to replace the the keypad on the door....the membrain has cracked and is letting moisture in.....if you leave the headlights on auto you will find they will go on and off too

Any time you have to reset the ECM, all you have to do is disconnect the negative battery cable for about 15 seconds--if you've replaced the sensor--I just had to do that twice--the first one apparently was bad so I had to buy another one and now that fault is gone.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

it resets every time you turn your car on. i have a 01 eclipse and the dealer told me that.

You need to read the manual that should have came with the machine, or go on the manufacturer's website for information and to, possibly, download a user guide.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

If coolant is rusty or dirty - yes

If the light comes on "steady" it means that the computer has detected a fault but that you can probably wait to take care of it at your convenience... hopefully within a few days.

If the light is BLINKING, it means that something more serious is wrong and you need to take care of it NOW.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction (cam sensor)

WHENEVER the check engine light comes on, ALWAYS connect a code scanner to figure out why. The light is on to tell you that the computer has detected a "fault" and it wants to tell you all about it.