Chevy 305

Most likely it has 2.78:1 unless it was a 9c1 pkg. (1st year) then it may have 3.08 or 3.23 gears. The best way to check is to find your Parts ID Plate which can be located in your glovebox, the trunk, the B-pillar, and a few other places. It will contain all the "codes/parts" that went in to building your vehicle.

The 305 can actually run and drive on a low as 5psi of oil pressure anything lower you're in trouble. A 305 should typically have anywhere from 40 to 15psi to be in excellent running condition.

If you mean that it goes down almost all the way, but won't go down the last 1/4" or so, then it's not lined up with the oil pump shaft. Bump the engine around with the starter a little, and it should drop right in.

the fireing order for a Chevy 305 is 18436572 with #1 being the drivers side plug closest to the radiator.

Depends upon the tire height. Make sure that the total height of the new rim + tire match that of your stock. I believe the tires for stock are 75 cm tall. You could probably get 19" rims but the tires would have to be skinny(short) which would mean a rougher ride.

The balancer is made of 2 pieces That have a rubber piece in the center of them that hold the balancer together. If the balancer comes apart YES it will knock / make noise and the engine would vibrate/shake. You would be able to move 1 piece of the balancer with your hand if that was the case. Check it.

3.736"

hydraulic

17s is probably the biggest u can fit but will still rub frame n wont have that much of a clearance for turn 17s is probably the biggest u can fit but will still rub frame n wont have that much of a clearance for turn

Look for performance parts that are usually listed as being for 305/350 truck engines. First thing I would do is upgrade the exhaust system - headers, hi flo cat,and a cat back exhaust.Stock headers (exhaust manifolds) are terrible.

Second upgrade the intake/air flow/fuel system.Stock breather assembly is terrible, and a "cold air kit" is a good idea. Hi flow throttle body (if fuel injected) which can be had from Holley or upgrade your stock one (CFM technologies & Turbo City). On Carburated engines - Holley makes good carbs. Intake manifold - dual plane from holley, edelbrock or GM perf parts for either FI or carb'ed engines.

Stock fuel pressure (FI cars) is poor so upgrade the stock fuel pump.An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good idea - necessary after some point, the more mods you do and bigger injectors are the same way.

After those things - camshaft and cylinder heads are the next area to look at.Stay moderate on the cam "size" (lift) - "big cam" is not always best. Edelbrock makes a good one for street use.

GM Vortec heads are the cheapest "performance " heads but the combustion chamber size - 64cc -will kill the compresssionon a 305.Vortecs like compression in the 9.4 to 9.8 range. Mill the heads to about 58cc using stock 305 "dished" pistons - 60cc or so with flat top pistons.

. Don't forget a lower (higher number) gear in the rear end.You probably should do some mods to the transmission (auto) if you want it to survive.Mucho Info is available on 3rd gen.org, Chevy Hi performane,Hi tech performance,Hi perf - truck web sites.Start googling and read, read, read.On a FI 305 - 265/280 HP is about what you'll get without spending a LOT of $$ - and if staying emisions legal.

300 HP and up?Then the best idea is to go up to a 350.Most of the parts you use on a 305 can be used on a 350. Some 305 engines have been made to make 400HP (carb not FI) and more.But the cost is usually way high and they are not emissions legal.Maybe not a good street engine at that level of HP.Lot of people "look down" on the 305 - I say if you've all ready got a good 305 - use it. They can be good performers for not a whole lot of cash.Even cheaper if you can do your own work.Learn and read - lot of info available - not all good - but most of it is.

There is basically no difference. 305 is a Chevy engine and the 307 is a Cadillac engine. They are both the same and assembled by same company

Well, on the other hand, it depends on how you look at it. The 305 Chevy is a 265 stroked with a 350 crank. The 307 Chevy is a 283 stroked with a 327 crank.

In theory, the 305 should produce it's best torque at a lower rpm than the 307. However, the 307 should be able to rev higher and produce a higher peak horsepower. Kinda depends on what you need it for.

There is also a 307 produced by Oldsmobile that is a V8 engine. It shares no other commonalities with a small block Chevy.

Rent a tranny jack. All the internal components are available. the tranny swap is easy, make sure the clutch is good, no use pulling the tranny twice.

first off, what type of trans do you have ( manftr / speeds-gears ) with that type of horse power i hope it's an 18 speed. if you don't have a trans cooler - get one! this will help. remember all that horse power breaks things. use it only when neccesary. my 87 359 has 500hp and my 88 379 has 675hp. easy is the key to cool.

boxwrench.com they got alot of torque specs on there

If the engine is not giving spark or sending any fuel to the cylinders. Then I would seriously suggest checking out the CKP or crank position sensor located on the front of the engine.

Set timing at 36 degrees at 2000 rpm's

Four (4) quarts

In a Fram, that would be ph-30. AC-Delco is pf-25. There are many other filters that will fit, but the pf-25 is the most common.

First off, locate a GM water pump socket just for this type of pump. Auto Zone will loan you one of these sockets for about $40 and refund the full price when you return the socket after using it to remove and replace the water pump.

Before removing the water pump be sure to clean and flush your system. Be sure to turn the heater on full heat setting to allow the coolant to run through the heater hoses too. Get a quart of the flush clean out the coolant system. This is very important on aluminum engines. It will run cooler and also your new pump will last longer and the warranty won't be void from leaving dirty coolant in the system.

I got a flush connector to hook up the garden hose and give it a thorough flush after running the cleaner through for 20-3- minutes. It may take a while to get all of the cleaner out of your system so take the time and watch for bubbles in a 5 gallon pail. Once the bubbles stop forming after 4-5 full buckets filled using the radiator tube extension you can be certain that the cleaner is out and just fresh water is left.

Once you are through cleaning and flushing the system Ssart by removing the black plastic flap panel that covers the headlights. Remove the fuse panel cover on the fender. Unplug the connector to the air box.remove the air cleaner all the way down to the bottom case that holds the air cleaner. It sits on 2 plastic pegs and lifts right off. Once you have the air cleaner and intake tube removed take off the motor mount strut bar and both brackets. If this piece is worn out you will need to replace it as well. Make a list as you take things apart so you can get new parts to replace the worn ones. The bolt with the hose connected to it if removed will have to have sealant applied to it during reassembly.

Remove the top radiator hose and tuck into the grill opening.

You will see the pump on the drivers side of the engine toward the front right behind the driver's side fan. If you need more room you can remove this fan by taking out the two top bolts and removing the top transmission line to the radiator and pushing it aside. As you pull up the fan remove the electrical connector. The fan is now out of the way. Remove the bottom radiator hose then loosen the 3/4" hose connections.

You can remove more parts to gain better access but this is not really necessary. You can remove the motor hanging bracket and the EGR tube if you feel it's necessary.

Locate the four small bolts on the water pump plate and remove them with a combination of 10mm sockets, ratchets and extensions. The lower bolt will be easier to loosen than it will be to remove without dropping it. Be very careful to only unscrew until it's loose then use a magnet to pull it out of the cover. Another trick is to use a short piece of hose to push over the bolt and then use it to unscrew the bolt and remove it without dropping it. If you do drop it and can't find it just get a new one at the hardware store. You can get the clear plastic hose there as well. heat the hose with a hair dryer to make it pliable if necessary to fit over the head end of the bolt. I found this short hose technique to be the easiest to reinstall these bolts when the time is right.

Moving on, now that you have the water pump cover plate removed you can use the special GM socket to remove the water pump. Make sure the socket is located over the vanes of the pump and seated between the tabs of the old pump. Insert a 1/2" ratchet or a breaker bar and use a length of pipe to turn the pump clockwise. This is the righty-tighty direction which will loosen the pump from the housing. This is opposite of the lefty-loosey direction since the pump rotates in the reverse direction so as to not accidentally loosen the pump if the bearing seizes prematurely.

The socket will turn the pump about 30 degrees and then you should be able to just pull the pump out of the housing. Notice the smaller tab with the notch at the top. You will have to line the new pump up the same way it came out so that the drain hole is located properly when reinstalling the new pump. Be sure to remove the O-ring from the groove and clean up any residue from the groove. Make sure to remove the groove ring and clean out the groove completely with a small knife and a wire brush.

I like to run a tap through all of the bolt holes to clean out the corrosion before installing the new gaskets and sealer. Be sure to blow out the freshly tapped holes once cleaned out.

If you don't have a tap that is this size get a longer bolt at the hardware store that is the same thread size and grind or file several notches into the end of the bolt. This will be sufficient to remove any buildup and clean out the existing threads for reassembly. It's a poor man's tap but it works and is cheap and easy to come by.

Use a wire brush, maybe even several styles of wire brushes to clean up all of the parts including inside the hose ends. Inspect carefully and replace any hoses that are cracked, frayed or worn out.

This is a good time to pour 2 gallons of distilled water into the upper radiator hose to flush out the mineral water left in it. Also pour another gallon of distilled water into the radiator fill tank to purge the mineral water from that part of the system as well.

Put sealer on the round O-ring and insert it into the circular groove in the water pump housing before installing the new water pump. Be sure to place the small tab with the notch 30 degrees to the right of top center. This will ensure that the tab is at the top once you seat the new pump with the special GM socket.

You will probably need a long breaker bar or a pipe on the end of the 1/2" ratchet in order to seat the pump properly. Make sure that the fingers on the special socket are engaged properly before exerting pressure on the pipe to the ratchet. If you have applied sealant properly this will help you to turn the pump counter-clockwise into the seated position. Check carefully that the bent tabs on each tab are located against the housing properly and you are finished with this stage of installation. With a steady, even pressure the new water pump should seat firmly when it locks in.

I found that installing the new thermostat into the cover before installing the cover to the water pump housing makes it easier to make sure that the thermostat is centered properly. Tighten according to specs for this size bolt. Do not strip the aluminum by over tightening.

Now put some sealer into the funny shaped groove and seat the new funny shaped O-ring. At first the O-ring will seem too large but keep working it into the groove with your thumbs and you will soon make it seat in the groove properly. Now push the 3/4" fitting into the hose and align the water pump plate with the holes on the water pump housing. The 3 easy bolts should be started first but not tightened until the 4th bolt is started as well. Use the clear plastic flexible tubing/hose to hold the head of the bolt to start the bolt into the hard to reach hole. You will have to move the wire assemblies around to get at this. These wire assemblies will be very stiff because of their size and age but they do move out of the way. Move the lower radiator hose one way or the other to allow access to start and tighten these bolts.

Tighten the bolts gradually a few turns at a time to seat the O-ring properly. Once snug, torque to specs for this size bolt, Do not over tighten or strip these bolts or you will have leaks.

Once you have the pump in place you can install the radiator hoses and make sure the clamps on all of the hoses are tight.

Replace the air tube and air cleaner. Be sure to reconnect the electrical connector to the air box. Replace the motor mount strut and brackets then lastly the headlight flap panel.

The heater should be set on high heat so that coolant flows through the heater hoses and doesn't trap air in the system.

Start the engine and then add GM Dex-Cool coolant. This is the only kind to use or you will void all warranties! Add slowly so that you allow room for the air to leave the system. You may have to shut off the engine and restart several times before the coolant is free of air. Add 2 full gallons of new coolant if you have extremely cold winters. Then top off the system with distilled water as needed. Recheck daily until you are certain that the system is full and free of air and has the correct cooling and low freeze temp.

Check for leaks. There shouldn't be any. To be sure, park in a dry area and let the engine idle for 5 or 10 minutes. Move the car and if it's dry you have done a good job in replacing your own water pump on a 1997 Cadillac NorthStar Engine.

Toc much preasure or even heat and preasure. It could be the gasket/ seal surrounding the oil filter aswell. You should change the oil filter, gasket/ seal and it should not leak.

Are you 100% sure the filter is leaking or possibly oil is running off the filter but is possibly coming from above, as in a leaking valve cover gasket. If the filter is indeed leaking it can only be a few things. Either the filter was installed incorrectly or the mounting surface was dirty or the old filter gasket was left on. Remove the filter, make sure the old gasket was removed, clean the mounting surface throughly, and take a close look at the surface. Make sure there are no scratches or pitting there. Now apply a light coat of oil to the new filter gasket. Install the filter and tighten it exactly 3/4 turn after it makes contact with the mounting surface. (NO MORE AND NO LESS!!!) I stress, 3/4 turn. This is where most people make a mistake and tighten the filter way too much. It may not feel tight enough, but I assure you that it is. After the filter gets hot, the gasket will swell and it will be plenty tight and create a good seal but be easy to remove the next time.

The antenna mast is stripped.

Big wheels of course. They will protect you better from falls over potholes

Either the distrbutor cap is cracked or broken or the plug wires are not in the correct firing order or the drive for the distributer is partially broke or the valve train is to tight.

Computer controlled and not adjustable