Chevy Cavalier

Usually a timing problem. However, it could be the way the carb is tuned or a vacuum leak. Start by checking your timing and looking for vacuum leaks.

It cuts the horsepower usage down to let you better control your car when its raining or in rough conditions. I think what your talkin about is the tcs

This is a quick answer. Its above the starter going into the side of the block. (front side of the engine) Disconnect the battery. Remove the starter. Remove the wore plug into the sensor. The sensor has 1 bolt holding it in. Remove the bolt, you may have to wiggle the sensor at the base a bit as you pull it out. Replace, and make sure it is pushed in all of the way. Replace the bolt, wire plug, starter, reconnect the battery. If you have ever removed or replaced a starter this is cake, that is the hardest part of the job. Rich

With any gaskets, you have to scrape them off carefully with a scraping tool. Dont gauge the metal. Then go to a store and buy a new gasket for your year/make/model/engine size. if you want to be sure it will seal, get some gasket sealant for an extra dollar.

I have found that a Chilton or Haynes Auto repair manual for the year and make of the vehicle (available at your local library)are an excellent source of information. They are quite informative on most parts replacement and how to troubleshoot.

if you need to find tdc than put a screwdriver in the #1 cylinder hole and turn over by hand until the screwdriver is about to go down or up,you will find the spot in the crankshaft were you can turn it slightly and the screwdriver will go up a bit or down.

Press the set button one time. Then to set the hour you press the seek back button to adjust. For the minutes side, you would press seek forward. Then when done press Set again.

With a car this new, one shouldn't have to be worried about spark plugs at this time. Check the owner's manual for the scheduled maintenance.

But, if you are still wondering,

On a four cylinder engine, the plugs will be right in the front at the exhaust manifold.

A V6 will have three in front, and three on the back side of the engine.

If you have four Hamsters in your cage and it says "ECOTEC 2.2" on the top of the engine then the cattle prods for those furry little devils are located right underneath where it says 'ECOTEC 2.2". Make sure you have your metric sockets handy 10mm to remove plate and 16mm deep with extension to remove the plugs. You will need to either loosen or remove the holding bracket over the top of the engine, the only bar over the engine, since the plate will need to travel a couple of inches to clear and pull out ( though honestly I just bent the bugger out of the way)<--- this does work. I strongly recommend using the old "peice of rubber tubing" technique, since the plugs are straight down in their little shute, and I have NEVER cross threaded a plug doing it this way. Remember,snug not tight.

If you're wondering why the spark plugs aren't the same, Ac Delco obsoleted the old ones 41-981, now 41-103 is the replacement, you SHOULD replace them with the same spark plug since the Ecotec engine is sensitive. You can use tweezers to get the spark plugs out too, if you don't have any "rubber tubing" just hanging around the house.

Additionally, When he mentioned bending the harness over the valve cover to get the plate off of the motor, that does work, genius. I work at a car lot and change plugs often, on my Cavalier to remove them if you don't have the hose- Get a 5/8" Deep Spark Plug Removal Socket; you can get these at any auto parts store, Walmart, etc. It is a deep socket with a hex pattern on the back that a 3/8" drive fit in. They are unique in that they have a rubber or foam gasket inside that hugs the spark plug for easy removal. Provided they are securely in the socket and you don't fling it around, the plug will remain in upside down. Also a good extension is necessary, one that is a foot or less so that you can drop it into the holes where the plugs are in. I tend to like to tighten them snug and then a slight quarter turn more, if you are like me, be sure to use a special spark plug anti-seize grease that you can get at the store as well. On all aluminum head engines you should use this. Also if your coil boots are still okay but are starting to not seal over the plug as they used to, squirt a little bit of tune-up grease on them to help keep moisture out.

if its when you are breaking it is possible it could be a rotor if you hear like a roaring or grinding noise coming from that side also could be a wheel bearing

you probably broke the little piece of plistic in the black box the actual opens the latch. This could have been done by slaamming the trunk. I have the same problem. I super glued it once and then broke it again when my heavy bike rack was on the trunk.

My upper motor mount was bad and it was the cause of the thump. It happened when I let off the accelerator, turned a corner and accelerated, or just any time the rpm's changed. Open the hood, have someone start the motor while you watch the upper motor mount. If the motor jumps a lot and clunks it's probably the motor mount. Replace it yourself for about $60 to $100. Let GM replace it for about $350. Its a 1 hour job for you or them. Hope this helps. If the thump occurs on bumpy roads it could be a bad strut. A simple way to check this is to rock the right front of the car up and down by pressing your weight down on the hood near the wheel well until you have a good rhythm going, then let go and if the car car continues to rock up and down more than once or twice then the strut is worn. To more accurately check the motor mount watch it while someone holds the brake while shifting between reverse and drive while the motor is running, listen especially for the familiar thumping sound coupled with your observation. If the sound is occurring when driving, especially while turning or cornering, then the most likely cause is the C.V. axle. They are relatively easy to change, but it would be more like a loud clicking sound in this case. The price is usually around $100 dollars for a new one verses 20 - 35 for a used one. I would recommend a new one if you expect to drive your car for some time yet. You can buy a step by step repair manual for around $16 that would cover all of the above repair procedures.

No, you cannot get a tag or register a car without the title and proof of ownership. This document is required throughout the U.S.

Remove the alternator restraint bracket screws. Next, using a 15mm wrench turn the tensioner bolt located on the left side of the engine block (The side where the pulley assembly is). Turn just enough to push back and down. The tensioner should move loosening the belt and freeing the tension from the alternator. Then, remove all of the screws securing the alternator. Disconnect the electric ground cable from the rear of the alternator. Remove the alternator. Installing the new one is basically the reverse of the uninstall. Remember****** Don't fight with the belt. If it's too tight to put around the alternator loosen the tensioner. If you can't get the belt all the way over the alternator pulley, put it as far as you can and stabilize it with a pry bar. While holding the belt partially on the alternator pulley with the pry bar, have someone responsible bump the ignition. Do not turn the car on! Barely turn the key till the starter tries to turn. The belt should have jumped on now.

1988 chevy cavalier flasher take ash tray and bracket out look up and lift you can see it if not you can put your hand up in to lift and find it.

Remove the wiring harness from the 1996 Chevy Cavalier blower motor. Remove the blower motor retaining bolts. Remove the blower motor fan. Reverse the process to install the new blower motor.

Back side of the engine near where the transmission mounts to the engine. You have to jack up the car and crawl under it to see it. There are two sensors there.....the crankshaft sensor and the knock sensor.

* Relieve the fuel system pressure * Disconnect the negative battery cable if car is equipped with Delco-Loc 2 or Theftlock audio system make sure you got the activation code first * Remove the fuel tank Disconnect the fuel pump/sending unit harness connector and the fuel tank pressure sensor from the fuel tank * The fuel pump/sending unit assembly is located inside the fuel tank.Using a pair of snap-ring pliers contract the retaining collar and remove the top of the fuel pump assembly * Lift the fuel pump/sending unit assembly from the fuel tank * Inspect the condition of the O-ring around the opening of the tank if its dried,cracked or deteriorated replace it * Remove the strainer from the lower end of the fuel pump.If its dirty,clean it with a suitable solvent and blow it out with compressed air.if too dirty replace it * Remove the fuel pressure sensor mounting bolts and separate the sensor from the top of the fuel pump assembly * If it is necessary to separate the fuel pump and sending unit,disconnect the electrical connectors at the pump,noting their postions * Disconnect the fuel line from the pump

* On models with power door locks and/or power windows disconnect the negative battery cable.If equipped with Delco Loc 2 or Theftlock audio system make sure you have the activation code * On models with power door locks pry the power door lock switch out of the door trim panel with a flat-blade screwdriver unplug the electrical connector from the switch and remove the switch * On models with power windows pry the power window switch out of the trim panel with a flat-blade screwdriver unplug the electrical connector from the switch and remove the switch * On models with manually-operated windows remove the window regulator handle * Remove the trim panel screws * Once all of the screws are removed detach the trim panel from the door disconnect any electrical connectors and remove the trim panel from the vehicle by lifting it up and away from the door

Best way to get to it is thru the wheel well, passenger front. it's kind of up in the fender.

P0118 means: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High

P0118 means: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High

This is Electronic Traction Control. Yours, it appears is turned off. If you have an owner's manual, it will provide the information you want. If not, get one. In the mean time look closely, and I am sure you will find the on/off switch on the dash or near the shifter.

eBay or a junkyard would be the least expensive options available

Your 1997 Chevy Cavalier should be equipped with the 2200 SFI 2.2L pushrod OHV Motor, unless it is the Z24 model... If your running the normal 2200 motor your car is using a timing "chain" and not a belt since it a push-rod motor and the actual cam sits right above the crankshaft in the engine block itself. These chains are normally good for the life of the vehicle, unless it has had some extreme wear and tear over the years, your more than likely experiencing ignition or fuel problems if your car seems to be running "off time" On the other hand if your hearing valve clatter this is not a timing problem either... As miles build on your push-rod motor the valve lifters will start to space, unfortunately the 2200 SFI only uses "solid lifters" and not self adjusting "hydraulic lifters" so unless you have had the heads ripped into and the valves routinely shimmed these engines will eventually start to make some racket. Now if your car is the Z24 model of the Cavalier then your running Chevy's first attempt at a DOHC motor predating its now infamous "Eco-Tec" motor. The Z24 model uses a 2.4L DOHC motor that does in fact use a timing belt, in which case should be replaced every 100k miles to avoid breakage and valve damage/timing problems

I got one at a pull a part for 33 bucks and threw it in myself

The hour and minute button in mine are the tiny buttons under the volume knob. The one on the left is the hour and the one on the right is the minute. Just hold it down for a second and it will change.