Chevy Corvette

There is a brightness adjustment or it may be broken

Here's the "Short" answer. (that means I'm not going into detail on any of the steps)

# Remove the head (pull the distributor [Turn the engine to #1-TDC and note the orientation of the rotor so you can put it back pointing EXACTLY the same way], intake manifold, rocker covers, rockers, and anything else that's in the way.) # Remove the timing chain cover (pull the radiator fan, water pump, dampener pulley and anything else that's in the way) # Align the camshaft and crankshaft so that the timing marks point directly toward each other (to see what they're SUPPOSED to look like) # Remove the timing chain sprockets (camshaft and crankshaft) # At some point along the line you should remove the old lifters. If you ever intend to use them again you should keep track of where each lifter came from. They have to be removed because they'll get in the way when you try to... # Pull the OLD camshaft out. # Examine the camshaft bearings, if they're worn, replace them. # Lube the bearing surfaces and CAREFULLY slide the new camshaft into place. (don't nick or otherwise damage the bearing or cam lobe surfaces) # Fit the NEW sprockets into place with the chain on them and fiddle with the tooth/chain spacing to get the camshaft and crankshaft to align back to the #1-TDC alignment that you saw in step 3 above. Proper alignment is essential if you ever want the engine to run properly. # Put it all back together and hope you didn't make a serious mistake. Make certain that you clean all mating surfaces and properly install gaskets and as I indicated in step 1 above, make certain that the distributor is installed the same way that it was. Hope it works out for you.

The 4 cylinder gets from 23-26 City & 31-34 Highway The 6 cylinder gets from 20-21 City & 26 Highway

well im pretty sure you have to take out the plastic including the stuff that goes around the switches and the gadges and the stereo and also you need to open the glove box (or that box in the center whatever its called) then take all the screws holding the door to it on

The best way to do it is to remove the whole center bezel (where the radio sits in) be very careful not to crack it. there are screws holding it in, you'll see them. If you have a radio installed, do what you have to do to get the bezel out. The vents on the top of the bezel are attached to it, so be carefull and work it out "SLOWLY". then remove the carpet panels, which are running from front to back on the side of the seats. there are 3 screws holding each one in. then remove the console bezel where the two window switches set into. you'll see the hex head nuts, two on each side (i believe) of the console bezel and two underneath where the radio bezel sat on. this should be enough to raise the console up and look underneeth the switches and you'll find them held in by two more hex head screws. reverse the installation. good luck!

u take a pair of needle nose pliers and at the front of the knob near the bottom there is a pin that loks almost like a staple just pull it out and it will come off

40 percent of toatal cost

It would be a very good idea to start your stored car a few times. If you have no problem starting it you would not have to charge the battery.

The 1991 Chevrolet Corvette convertible passenger side door panel is held in place with two retaining bolts and eight retaining clips. Remove the retaining bolts and pry outward on each retaining clip.

2 - lines, 1 feed and 1 return line, this keeps fuel flowing so it stays cool. They run from the fual pump mount on the top of the fuel tank, alon the pass. side of the frame, up the front of the engine, and under the TPI plenum to the rear of the engine, and connect to the fuel-pressure regulator on the rear of the fuel-rail that feeds all of the fuel injectors. The lines are steel, silver in color, except where they connect to the fuel rail on the front of the engine where there is a short section of reinforced black rubber. Note that these are high-pressure (~80-90 PSI) lines and cannot be replaced with low-pressure fule hose!

yes, the heads can be replaced with corvette heads. there hasn't been any documented proof of horsepower loss or gains, but i would suspect that that might be a minimal increase in horsepower

all you have to do is complete the game 100% but u can not soup it up in my cars u can only race it

You can adjust your 1989 Chevy Corvette emergency brake into different ways. The emergency brake will have an adjustment bolt on the brake pad. The emergency brake cable can be adjusted to shorten or lengthen the cable.

fuel pump is in the fuel tank it is remove trough filler neck not that bad of a job

First take the spare tire top and bottom hanger off the frame.....then disconnect the wires and fuel lines going to the sending unit and after that there are 2 bolts on each frame section holding the gas tank on. to get to these bolts it will be alot easier to take the exhaust and move it to the side...after that is done take off the bolts and there you have it...the tank is out and ready for a new one or repair.

I don't know how much horsepower the 1963 race car puts out, but the 1996 Grand Sport puts out 330HP and the 2010-present Grand Sport puts out 436HP

Check your local library ,they usually have repair manuals.

It really depends on your model of Corvette. My experience is with C4's (1984 - 1996), specifically my 1988 35th Anniversary. When I purchased this car I was getting 10.8 - 11.2 mpg in the city and about 15 mpg highway.

Current Modifications are...

- Replaced stock filter with K&N Filter

- Replaced Stock power Coupler with Aftermarket (Rippled to Smooth)

- Installed Airfoil on Throttlebody Intake

- Installed Air Intake Temperature Sensor Relocation Kit (Pre 1989)

My fuel logs for last year of driving (1300 miles) shows that I am getting 16.3 mpg city and up to 25 mpg highway (@60 MPH, flat), 22 MPG Average Highway

I have not changed the Chip, Plugs, Wires, or any other modifications.

Other modifications I plan that will also increase MPG is

- Port/Polish Intake Runners

- Performance High Flow Injectors

- Performance Mass Airflow Sensor (Adjustable)

- Performance Fuel Regulator (Adjust fuel rate)

- Quad Titanium Spark Plugs

- Upgrade all Pullys to Aluminum with better ratio

All this will give you easily about another 100 HP, keep your foot out of it and you can tack on about another 10% MPG increase

When trouble shooting any problem relating to a car you should always start at the simplest of steps. My first thought would be that the motor burned out and you need to replace it, but maybe its not. Cars are very easy to figure out, its getting to those hard to reach areas is the problem. start out by checking the fuse, check to see if its burned out, and needs to be replaced next, check too see if there is a physical block has something got in the way of them being able to close, next check too see if the motoring , and tracking of the system looks good, has one of the inner control arms broken or have you lost a nut or bolt, compare each side with each other to see if there is any differences., This may sound silly but disconnect the battery, maybe the computer forgot to run the signal to rhe motor, by doing this you may reset the computer, if you are mechanically inclined you may be able to figure it out very easily if your not maybe its time to visit your local repair person, good luck.

Yes it can, very easy to do, have to order a new latch from the dealer, just tell them it's the latch that locks the top down, and which side it's on. Hope this helps.

It is a tough job that is for sure! Take a look over at Smokinvette.com and get a full diagram of how exactly to do it! Good luck!

Why would you want to do this? ABS have saved me more than once. Practice using them and leave them alone. They are a great safety feature. If you do not think so then all I can say is that you are dead wrong and I will not help you disable your ABS. ABS allows you to keep control while under full braking and still be able to steer around trouble. On the other hand if your ABS has failed and is not working properly, then you still have regular braking ability and there is no need to try and bypass the system.

The EHCU can malfunction and cause brakes to go out, replacement is $1300. Or you can bypass the EHCU and save money. The EHCU has 2 lines going into it and 3 out. The 2 "in" are from the combination valve, 1 for rear system and 1 for front system. The 3 "out" are split into 1 for rear brakes and 2 for front brakes. For the rear system, all you have to do is connect the rear out from the combination valve to the line that once connected to the EHCU for rear brakes. Front system. From the front out on the combination valve, install a T in the line. The 2 ends of the T connect to the lines that used to go to the EHCU for front brakes.

check coolant temp sensor, the computer is still running on open loop, doesnt know engine is cold, unplug sensor, it should run the same, do you have check engine light on ??

There's a special tool that'll release the latch by sticking it in between the hood edge and windshield. Any Corvette shop or even a dealer should have this. I've seen it advertised in Vette parts catalogs.